Toyota 2H and 12H-T digital engine factory workshop and repair manual
Toyota 2H 12H-T engine factory workshop and repair manual
on PDF can be viewed using PDF reader like adobe , or foxit or nitro
File size 12 Mb
Covers the Diesel 2H and the 12H-T turbo diesel engines.
includes engine mechanical, fuel system, cooling system, lubrication, starting and charging.
About the Toyota 2H Engine
The 2H is a 4.0 L (3980 cc) inline 6, 12 valve OHV diesel engine. Bore is 91 mm and stroke is 102 mm, with a compression ratio of 20.7:1. Output is 103 hp (77 kW) at 3500 rpm - later production years 107 hp (80 kW) with 177 lb·ft (240 N·m) of torque at 2000 rpm.
Applications
Toyota Land Cruiser HJ47, HJ60, HJ75
Toyota Dyna HU20, 30, 40, 50
Toyota Coaster HB20, 30
About the 12H-T engine
The 12H-T is a 4.0 L (3980 cc) inline 6, 12 valve OHV turbocharged diesel engine. Bore is 91 mm and stroke is 102 mm, with a compression ratio of 18.6:1. Output is 134 hp (100 kW) at 3500 rpm with 232 lb·ft (315 N·m) of torque at 1800 rpm.
Toyota Land Cruiser HJ61
Toyota Coaster HB20, 30
Toyota 2H 12H-T engine factory workshop and repair manual download oline
Quick overview (theory + why repair is needed)
- Theory: The clutch hydraulic system is a force-transmission system: the clutch pedal pushes a piston in the master cylinder (like pushing the plunger of a syringe), forcing brake/clutch fluid through a steel line to the slave cylinder. The slave converts hydraulic pressure back into linear mechanical motion to push the clutch release (throw‑out) bearing or fork, which disengages the clutch pressure plate from the disc so you can shift. Hydraulic fluid is nearly incompressible, so pressure transmits the force quickly and evenly.
- Why replace the slave cylinder: typical failures are internal seal wear or an external leak. Symptoms: soft/spongy pedal, clutch not fully disengaging or slipping, visible fluid leaking around the slave cylinder or on bell housing, pedal sinks to the floor, or fluid level in the reservoir dropping. Left unattended you can’t shift or you can damage the clutch or transmission input shaft bearing.
Key components (what each part is, what it does)
- Clutch master cylinder: mounted near the firewall; pedal linkage pushes its piston. It contains a small reservoir of hydraulic fluid and makes pressure when the pedal moves.
- Reservoir and cap (with level/min markings): holds fluid and keeps air out. Cap has a vent and sometimes a rubber diaphragm.
- Hydraulic line (steel hard line + flexible hose): carries fluid from master to slave. The hard line runs along the chassis, a flexible hose compensates for movement between engine/transmission.
- Slave cylinder (external type): mounted to the transmission bell housing; has a bore, piston, seals, and a pushrod that contacts the clutch fork or release bearing. It usually has a bleed nipple or is connected by a banjo fitting/line.
- Bleed nipple / bleed screw: small screw you loosen to let air/fluid out while bleeding.
- Banjo bolt and crush washer(s) (if used): for fluid line attachment on some designs: bolt clamps the banjo fitting; crush washers create a fluid-tight seal.
- Clutch release fork (fork) and pivot: the fork transmits slave pushrod motion to the release bearing.
- Throw-out (release) bearing: rides on the transmission input shaft and presses the pressure plate fingers to release the clutch.
- Bell housing and mounting bolts: bell housing supports/contains the clutch and houses the slave cylinder mounting location.
- Hydraulic fluid: typically DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid for Toyota clutches—confirm with the vehicle’s service manual. It absorbs moisture and can damage painted surfaces.
Tools & supplies you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: metric socket set, ratchet, extensions, combination wrenches.
- Flare-nut (line) wrench for hydraulic line fittings (to avoid rounding).
- Screwdrivers, pliers.
- Torque wrench (for critical bolts; consult manual for specs).
- New slave cylinder (exact replacement), new crush washers if fitting uses them.
- Fresh brake/clutch fluid (DOT spec per manual). Don’t reuse fluid.
- Clear hose and small container for bleeding, or a vacuum/pressure bleeder.
- Jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, drip pan, rags, safety glasses, gloves.
- Wire or zip ties, rubber caps to keep contaminants out of open lines.
- Brake cleaner and a paint-safe rag for cleaning spilled fluid.
Safety first
- Work on a flat surface. Chock wheels. Use high-quality jack stands; never rely on the jack only. Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Brake/clutch fluid eats paint—clean spills immediately.
- Support the transmission if you need to remove mounts or if the slave cylinder removal would let the transmission shift.
- Dispose of used fluid properly.
Step-by-step procedure (beginner-friendly)
1) Preparation
- Park, engage parking brake (if working under the vehicle), chock rear wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if working near electrical components or wiring.
- Raise and securely support the vehicle on jack stands so you can access the transmission bell housing and slave cylinder. Ensure stable support.
2) Locate the slave cylinder
- It’s mounted on the transmission bell housing near the clutch fork. Identify the clutch hydraulic line and bleed nipple. Take photos if useful before disassembly.
3) Remove obstructing items
- Remove any splash shields, skid plates, or components blocking access. Unplug or move electrical connectors/wiring harnesses out of the way.
4) Prepare to catch fluid
- Place a drip pan under the slave cylinder and put rags around to protect painted surfaces. Open the master cylinder reservoir cap to relieve back-pressure and monitor fluid level.
5) Disconnect hydraulic line
- Use a flare-nut wrench to loosen the hydraulic line fitting at the slave. If it’s a banjo bolt, remove the bolt and both crush washers and let fluid drain into pan. Be prepared for fluid to leak. Immediately cap or plug the line to prevent contamination and limit bleeding into the environment.
- If the line attachment is stuck or corroded, apply penetrating fluid and let soak. Avoid breaking the steel line — if it cracks, you’ll need to replace the line or hose.
6) Remove slave cylinder mounting bolts
- Use the correct sockets and remove the mounting bolts that secure the slave cylinder to the bell housing. Support the cylinder as you remove the last bolt so it doesn’t drop.
- Pull the slave cylinder straight off the mounting surface. If it’s seized, gently pry at the edges being careful not to damage the clutch fork or bell housing.
7) Inspect clutch fork & release bearing
- With the slave removed, inspect the clutch fork pivot for wear and lubrication, and visually check the release bearing and input shaft for obvious damage or contamination. If you see heavy wear or grease/metal on the bearing, further clutch work may be needed.
8) Prepare new slave cylinder
- Compare new part to old part. Replace any hardware recommended (banjo crush washers, mounting bolts if one-time torque/part).
- If the replacement recommends bench bleeding (some internal-type slaves do), bench bleed it: secure the cylinder in a vise or hold it, fill with fluid, connect short hose from bleed nipple back into the reservoir on the cylinder, gently depress the piston until bubbles stop, keep reservoir filled to avoid introducing air.
9) Install new slave cylinder
- Position new slave on the bell housing, align pushrod with clutch fork. Insert and snug mounting bolts by hand, then torque to manufacturer specification (if you don’t have the spec, tighten evenly and moderately; consult manual for exact torque).
- Reattach hydraulic line: if banjo type, use new crush washers and torque banjo bolt to spec; if threaded, tighten flare-nut with flare-nut wrench. Don’t over-tighten and strip fittings.
- Make sure dust boot is seated to keep dirt out.
10) Refill master reservoir
- Top up the reservoir to the correct fill level with the recommended DOT fluid.
11) Bleed the system (remove air)
- Lowest-bleed-first general rule: start at slave cylinder (closest to the ground) and work towards master if multiple points. For a single slave it’s the slave nipple.
- Methods:
a) Two-person method:
- One person pumps pedal several times then holds it down.
- Loosen bleed nipple ~1/4 turn to let fluid/air out into clear hose to container. Tighten nipple, then release pedal. Repeat until fluid is clear and bubble-free. Keep reservoir topped up.
b) Vacuum or pressure bleeder:
- Connect vacuum pump to bleed nipple or use pressure on reservoir per tool instructions. Operate until no air.
c) Gravity or one-way-valve bleeder as alternatives.
- Important: Never let reservoir run dry — that sucks air in and makes bleeding harder.
- Continue until pedal feels firm and travel is correct. Pedal should not sink to the floor.
12) Final checks and cleanup
- Tighten all fittings, torque bolts to spec if available. Wipe clean any spilled fluid; check painted areas for damage and neutralize if necessary.
- Reinstall any removed shields or components.
- Lower vehicle carefully, remove jack stands.
- Start engine, test clutch engagement in a safe area: with engine idling, depress pedal, shift through gears to ensure clutch disengages properly and no dragging/slippage occurs.
- Recheck fluid level after initial drives and top up if needed. Check for leaks around fittings and slave cylinder after a short test drive.
Common faults, pitfalls & troubleshooting
- Symptom: spongy pedal after replacement
- Cause: air trapped in system. Fix: re-bleed thoroughly; use vacuum bleeder or two‑person method until no bubbles.
- Symptom: pedal gradually sinks to floor under pressure
- Cause: internal leak in master or slave cylinder (seals failing) or a leak in line. Fix: inspect all components; replace faulty master/slave.
- Symptom: clutch not disengaging fully after replacement
- Cause: incorrect pushrod length/adjustment, misaligned or installed backward slave, or trapped air. Fix: re-check orientation and pushrod travel; bleed.
- Symptom: external fluid leak at fitting after installation
- Cause: missing/damaged crush washer, improper torque, or damaged threads. Fix: replace crush washers, clean seating surfaces, torque correctly.
- Symptom: contaminated fluid with debris or rust
- Cause: old corroded system or open lines. Fix: flush system, replace contaminated hard lines or master cylinder if corroded.
- Damage risk: clutch fluid on paint causes corrosion; avoid and clean immediately.
- If the clutch fork pivot or release bearing shows heavy wear, replacement of slave alone may be a temporary fix; a full clutch job might be required.
Extra tips (beginner shortcuts and cautions)
- Use a line wrench on fittings — regular wrench often rounds the nut.
- When replacing a hydraulic component, always use clean tools and avoid getting dirt into the system.
- If the master cylinder is old and suspect (internal leaks, spongy pedal), replace it at the same time — an old master will re-contaminate or cause repeated bleeding/issue.
- Keep used fluid off paint and dispose of used fluid properly at a recycling facility.
- Consult a factory service manual for model-specific torque specs, orientation details, and exact fluid type (DOT 3 vs DOT 4).
What can go wrong during the job (quick list to avoid)
- Losing the clutch slave mounting bolts or damaging threads — keep bolts organized, don’t cross-thread.
- Allowing the master reservoir to run dry — introduces air.
- Breaking steel hard lines by attempting to twist them instead of loosening the fittings correctly.
- Not supporting the transmission if movement is possible — can stress lines/mounts.
- Failing to bench bleed a new unit if required — makes system full of air.
- Using wrong fluid (e.g., mineral oil vs DOT fluid) — will damage seals.
If this exactly matches your machine’s external slave-cylinder setup, these steps will apply. For vehicle- or engine-specific torque values, the exact slave location/banjo vs threaded line, or special procedures Toyota lists for the 2H / 12H‑T, consult the Toyota service manual or a trusted factory spec sheet and follow those torque and fluid specifications.
No yapping. rteeqp73
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