Tools & consumables
- Floor jack + 2 quality jackstands (capacity ≥ vehicle GVWR), wheel chocks
- 3/8" & 1/2" ratchets, breaker bar, 6–12" extensions
- Metric socket set (8–24 mm common), deep sockets for strut top nut (often 17–22 mm)
- Torque wrench (range covering ~10–200 Nm / 7–150 ft·lb)
- Spring compressor (two‑jaw counter‑compressor is safest for MacPherson coils)
- Strut nut socket or thin wall socket for center shaft nut
- Spring compressor adaptors/hooks, or OEM‑style compressor
- Ball joint/tie‑rod puller (pickle fork or puller tool)
- Pry bars, hammer, rubber mallet
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster), wire brush, shop rags
- Line clamp or zip ties for brake hose/ABS sensor
- Punch/center pin driver + drift if removing lower bolts
- Impact wrench (optional, speeds jobs)
- Anti‑seize, thread locker (per FSM), grease
- Safety: safety glasses, gloves

Replacement parts commonly required
- Complete strut assembly (preferred) OR: strut cartridge/insert + new coil spring + new strut mount bearing/top mount + dust boot + bump stop
- New strut mounting nuts/bolts (use new hardware if single‑use per FSM)
- New lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts if corroded or torque‑to‑yield
- New swaybar endlinks / tie rod ends if worn
- New ABS/brake hose retaining clip(s) if damaged
- Wheel alignment after installation (required)

Safety precautions (non‑optional)
- Work on a flat level surface. Chock rear wheels. Set parking brake.
- Jack only at designated jacking points. Use jackstands under frame or control arm — NEVER rely on the jack alone.
- Spring compressors are mandatory unless installing a complete assembled strut. Compressed coil springs store lethal energy — use a certified compressor, inspect for damage, and compress evenly on opposite sides.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep clear of compressed spring path.
- Support the knuckle/hub when you separate fasteners to avoid sudden drop that stresses brake hose/ABS wiring.

Step‑by‑step replacement (both sides recommended)
1. Prep
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly with vehicle on ground.
- Raise front end with floor jack and place on jackstands under frame or control arm.
- Remove wheel.

2. Support knuckle
- Place a jack or stand under the lower control arm or under the knuckle hub assembly to support weight and prevent sudden drop when bolts removed. Leave a little upward force to hold orientation.

3. Disconnect brake/ABS components
- Unclip ABS sensor wire and brake hose from strut bracket. Use zip tie or clamp to keep lines slack and out of harm’s way.
- If ABS sensor routed through bracket on strut, remove retaining bolt(s).

4. Remove sway bar link
- Remove nut from sway bar link at the strut; use separator if necessary. Keep the sway bar supported so it doesn’t twist and put load on other side.

5. Separate outer tie rod end (if required)
- Loosen tie rod end nut, use a tie‑rod puller or pickle fork to separate from steering knuckle. Do not allow the knuckle to drop.

6. Remove lower strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Remove the nuts holding the strut to the steering knuckle. On many Toyotas there are two studs/bolts through the knuckle. If bolts are stuck, apply penetrating oil and use a punch/drift to drive them out. Support knuckle so it doesn’t drop when bolts removed.
- Note: If hub/rotor is held to knuckle and you prefer to remove the whole hub/rotor, support/disconnect accordingly.

7. Remove upper strut mount nuts
- Open hood. Remove the three (typical) nuts on the strut tower that secure the top of the strut. Support the strut from below as you remove the last upper nut — the assembly will be free.
- Pull the strut assembly down and out.

8. Disassembly of strut (only if replacing inserts or mounts)
- Secure strut in a good quality spring compressor with compressor hooks opposite each other, engaging several windings and not the ends. Tighten compressors evenly, alternating sides until spring is fully compressed with clear slack on the strut top nut.
- Remove the center shaft nut (hold strut piston with appropriate socket or hex if required). Remove washer, top mount, dust boot, bump stop.
- Replace mount/bearing/dust boot/bump stop or install new cartridge per parts purchased.
- If using a complete assembled strut, skip compressors and shaft nut steps.

9. Reassembly
- Reassemble the strut components, checking orientation of bearing and ensuring dust boot and bump stop seated correctly. Torque center nut per FSM.
- Carefully decompress the spring evenly until it seats on lower perch. Inspect spring seat, isolators; replace if damaged.
- If using complete strut assembly, simply proceed to installation.

10. Install strut into vehicle
- Lift strut into strut tower and loosely install upper nuts to hold it in place (do not torque fully yet).
- Align strut lower studs with knuckle and reinstall lower bolts/nuts. Use new hardware if recommended or if existing hardware is damaged.
- Reconnect tie rod end, sway bar link, brake hose/ABS clips.

11. Torque sequence & final checks
- With vehicle at ride height (lower jack so suspension droops slightly but not full weight), torque all suspension fasteners to manufacturer specs. If you torque with vehicle on stands (wheels off) you can introduce preload that affects alignment, so torque lower control arm pivot/strut bolts with weight on wheels where specified by FSM.
- Tighten upper strut tower nuts to spec with strut centered in tower. Ensure any alignment marks/orientation are correct.
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to spec.

12. Post‑install
- Double‑check hose/ABS routing: no kinks, tension, or contact with rotating parts.
- Test for free steering travel and no binding.
- Perform full front-end alignment (toe ± camber/caster) ASAP.

How the main tools are used (practical)
- Spring compressor: Hook compressors on opposite sides of the coil, tighten a few turns on one side, then alternate to compress evenly. Compress until spring sits below top seat clearance, then remove center shaft nut with breaker/impact. When decompressing, alternate sides and proceed slowly until spring fully seated.
- Ball joint/tie‑rod puller: Place puller cup over the stud, then tighten forcing the stud out of taper. If using pickle fork, be ready to replace boot or tie rod end if damaged.
- Jack + jackstands: Use floor jack to lift assembly; place jackstands on solid points; lower vehicle onto stands and verify stability before working under.
- Torque wrench: Use correct range, clean threads, and torque in the proper sequence. Use inch‑lb adapter for smaller nuts if required.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing old top mounts/bearing: causes noise and premature failure. Replace mounts when strut removed.
- Not supporting knuckle/hub: leads to brake hose/ABS wire overextension or damage. Always support.
- Improper spring compressor use: most dangerous mistake. Use a certified compressor, never compress at just one point, and wear eye protection.
- Over‑torquing/under‑torquing: can break studs or loosen over time. Use torque wrench and FSM specs.
- Forgetting alignment: leads to tire wear and steering pull; always align after strut work.
- Damaging ABS wire/brake hose: remove and secure lines before pulling strut down.
- Tightening upper nuts with wheel off causes preloaded geometry — follow FSM guidance (many manufacturers call for torquing lower bolts with vehicle at ride height).
- Not replacing hardware that’s corroded or torque‑to‑yield: always use new if recommended.

Torque specs (approximate ranges — confirm with Toyota FSM)
- Upper strut mount nuts: ~45–70 N·m (33–52 ft·lb)
- Lower strut-to-knuckle bolts: ~150–220 N·m (110–162 ft·lb)
- Sway bar link nuts / tie rod end nuts: ~40–80 N·m (30–60 ft·lb)
Confirm exact values for the 1HD‑FT chassis/year using the official Toyota service manual before final torquing.

Final notes
- Replace struts in axle pairs (both front) to maintain balanced handling.
- If unsure about spring compressor or internal strut service, fit complete assembled struts from a quality supplier.
- After road testing, recheck fastener torques and wheel lug nuts.

Done.
rteeqp73

🚙 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER TD 24V 1HD FT | Engine repair - Reparación del motor Subscribe https://bit.ly/3eL19Hq INDEX | ÍNDICE TOYOTA LAND CRUISER TD 24V (1HD-FT) 00:00 Introduction 00:13 To ...

1hdt 1hz Valve Clearance Adjustment Landcruiser 80 Series | Engine Maintenance | Today I go through how I check and re-shim my valves on the 1hz 80 series motor. This is to be used as a guide only and is what ...

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