Summary: replace the rear gearbox (transmission) output / transfer-case input seal on a Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ (1999–2004) — common workshop method. Tools, parts, safety, step-by-step, how each tool is used, and pitfalls.

Required parts
- Correct OEM transmission/gearbox output (rear) seal and/or transfer case input seal for your transmission model (42RE / 45RFE / 46RE). Order by VIN/transmission code.
- Transfer case gasket or O-ring and paper gasket or RTV if applicable.
- Transmission/transfer case fluid (type and quantity per workshop manual).
- Replacement bolts if specified (some manufacturers recommend replacing stretch/torque-to-yield bolts).

Tools
- Floor jack and heavy-duty jack stands (rated).
- Wheel chocks.
- Transmission jack or second floor jack with wood block (to support transfer case).
- Basic metric socket set, ratchet, extensions.
- Breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (capable to at least 150 ft·lb).
- Seal puller (two-jaw or hook type) or small pry bar and pick.
- Slide hammer with adapter (optional for stubborn seals).
- Seal installer driver set or appropriately sized socket (to seat the seal evenly).
- Hammer / mallet (rubber or dead-blow).
- Drain pan.
- Clean rags, brake cleaner or solvent.
- Pry bar.
- Electrical connector pliers.
- Safety glasses, gloves.

Safety precautions (must do)
- Work on a level surface. Chock front wheels and set parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to prevent electrical shorting during work.
- Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands under frame points; never rely on a jack only.
- Support transfer case with transmission jack before removing bolts — transfer case is heavy.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep hands clear when lowering heavy components.
- Catch and dispose of fluids properly.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Park, chock, disconnect battery negative.
- Raise rear of vehicle and support with jack stands; leave enough room to drop transfer case slightly.
- Place drain pan under transfer case area.

2) Remove driveline/related items
- Mark driveshaft orientation (match marks) and remove rear driveshaft bolts at yoke and set shaft aside.
- If necessary remove skid plate(s) for access.
- Disconnect any electrical connectors on transfer case (sensor plugs), and disconnect shift linkage/actuator and vent hose.

3) Support transfer case
- Place transmission jack or floor jack with wood block under transfer case to support its weight. Raise slightly so transfer case is supported.

4) Remove transfer case-to-transmission bolts
- Loosen and remove the bolts that attach the transfer case to the transmission bellhousing/adapter. Keep bolts organized.
- Carefully slide the transfer case rearward and down until the transfer case input yoke clears the transmission output spline. Lower it just enough to expose the transmission output seal. Do NOT allow transfer case to hang unsupported.

How the jacks are used:
- Floor jack under transfer case supports its weight so bolts can be removed safely; transmission jack is used if you need to lower the transfer case fully. Use wood block to avoid crushing castings.

5) Expose the seal
- With the transfer case moved back or lowered, the transmission output shaft seal (and transfer-case input seal area) will be exposed in the transmission tail housing or transfer case adapter.
- Clean the area with solvent and rags to remove grime so you can see the seal lip and outer edge.

6) Remove old seal
- Use a seal puller or small pry tool to carefully pry the old seal out. Work evenly around the seal. If it’s stubborn, use a slide hammer with a puller adapter. Avoid scratching the bore or shaft.
- Inspect the splines of the output shaft and the bore for grooves or damage. Light surface rust can be cleaned, but deep grooves will require replacement of housing or professional repair.

How the tools are used:
- Seal puller hooks behind the seal outer edge; rotate and pull to extract. If using a slide hammer, attach to puller and apply straight force to remove seal without deforming bore.

7) Prepare new seal
- Lightly coat the inner lip of the new seal with transmission fluid or assembly lube.
- Ensure seal orientation is correct: typically the flat side (outer edge) faces outward and the lip points toward the fluid (toward the transmission internals). Confirm orientation with old seal reference.

8) Install new seal
- Use a seal driver or a socket whose outer diameter matches the outer edge of the seal. Seat the seal squarely and tap gently with a mallet until the seal is flush with the housing surface (or at the OE depth). Avoid tilting; seat it evenly.
- Do not hammer on the inner lip or shaft. Rotating the seal slightly as you tap helps it go in true.

How the installer is used:
- Place the installer/socket over the seal, strike evenly around the face until the seal bottoms out. Use a torque wrench on a soft blow? No—just even hammer blows.

9) Clean mating surfaces
- Clean the mating face on the transmission/transfer case and transfer case adapter. Replace any gaskets or O-rings with new ones. If gasket is paper, install new gasket; if using RTV follow manufacturer cure instructions.

10) Reinstall transfer case
- Raise transfer case slowly aligning splines and slide transfer case forward until it seats onto the transmission output. Ensure splines mesh freely; rotate slightly if needed.
- Install and finger-tighten bolts, then torque to factory spec in a criss-cross pattern. (Use the factory torque specs — do not over-torque.)

11) Reinstall driveshaft and other components
- Reinstall driveshaft, aligning the marks you made earlier. Torque bolts to spec.
- Reconnect shift linkage, actuator, vent hose, and electrical connectors.

12) Refill fluids
- Refill transfer case and transmission (if needed) to correct level using the correct fluid grade. Operate the shift linkage and cycle 4WD to circulate fluid, recheck levels.

13) Test
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery negative.
- Start engine, shift through gears, check for leaks around the replaced seal and mating surfaces.
- Road test at low speed, recheck for leaks and re-torque fasteners if necessary after first road use.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not supporting transfer case: can drop and damage housing or injure you. Always support before unbolting.
- Damaging bore or shaft when removing old seal: use proper puller and work evenly. Do not gouge bore or splines.
- Installing seal crooked or too deep/shallow: use correct size installer and seat evenly until flush.
- Reusing old gasket or O-rings: always replace gaskets/O-rings to prevent leaks.
- Forgetting to refill fluids or using wrong fluid: check correct fluid types and volumes.
- Over-torquing or under-torquing bolts: use torque wrench and factory specs.
- Contaminating new seal lip with dirt: keep surfaces clean and use clean rags/solvent.
- Ignoring underlying damage: grooved output shaft or badly worn transfer-case input will cause repeat leaks; inspect and repair or replace damaged parts.

Notes and tips
- If the seal is in the transfer case (input seal), the transfer case usually must be removed; same principles apply.
- If you find significant wear/grooves on the output shaft, you’ll need to replace the shaft or the entire tail housing or send for machining — a new seal will only be a temporary fix.
- Always use OEM or quality aftermarket seals sized for your transmission model.
- Consult the official WJ/WG workshop manual for exact torque specs, seal orientation photos, and model-specific notes before starting.

That’s the full shop procedure — follow safety, use the correct seal and gasket, seat the new seal square, and torque all fasteners to spec.
rteeqp73

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