1) What the TPS is and why it matters (theory, short)
- TPS = throttle position sensor. It converts throttle plate/cable position into an electrical signal (usually a 3‑wire sensor: 5 V reference, ground, and signal) that the ECU uses for fueling, idle control, turbo/boost control and limp‑home logic.
- A correct, smooth, linear signal tells the ECU exact driver demand. An intermittent, non‑linear or stuck signal causes poor idle, hesitation, surging, incorrect fueling, high idle, or ECU fault codes and limp modes.

2) Symptoms that indicate TPS work is needed
- Erratic idle, surging or stalling when throttle moved.
- Hesitation or flat spots on acceleration.
- Check engine light with throttle/TPS codes (P0120–P0124 type or manufacturer equivalents).
- Obvious physical damage or heavy wear at the throttle linkage.

3) Safety and tools
- Safety: engine off for mechanical work; engine running for live electrical checks—secure vehicle (handbrake, chock wheels), proper ventilation if running.
- Tools: DMM (digital multimeter), backprobe pins, scan tool/live data if available, basic hand tools, small screwdriver or Torx/hex to loosen TPS, replacement TPS if required, contact cleaner.

4) Locate and inspect (mechanical theory + steps)
- Locate TPS on the throttle body where the throttle shaft/cable attaches. The TPS is mounted to the body and rides on the throttle spindle.
- Inspect connector and wiring for corrosion, broken wires, or pin damage; inspect throttle shaft for excessive play or binding (worn bushings make the TPS output jump). Fix wiring or bushings if found.

5) Electrical identification and expected behavior (theory + exact checks)
- Identify wires: one is 5 V reference, one ground, one signal. With ignition ON (engine off) measure:
- Reference should be approx. 5.0 V (some ECUs ~4.9–5.1 V).
- Ground should be ~0 V.
- Signal voltage should be smooth and change from low at closed throttle to high at wide open throttle. Typical approximations: ~0.4–1.0 V at closed throttle, rising linearly to ~4.0–4.5 V at full open. (If you see 0 V or full 5 V constant, sensor or wiring likely bad.)
- Use DMM: backprobe signal wire, slowly open throttle by hand and watch voltage: it must move smoothly without jumps or dead spots.

6) Static resistance test (if 2‑wire or variable resistor TPS)
- If TPS is a 2‑wire potentiometer type, measure resistance between the two terminals while moving throttle slowly. Resistance should change smoothly and continuously. Abrupt jumps or open circuit = bad.

7) Dynamic scan tool/live data test (recommended)
- Use a scan tool to watch TPS % or volts while you smoothly move throttle. Compare to throttle plate angle/rpm: they should correlate smoothly. If the signal lags or jumps, the sensor or shaft interface is faulty.

8) Adjustment (if adjustable TPS)
- Theory: TPS must be positioned so the ECU reads the correct idle voltage.
- Procedure (ordered):
1. With ignition ON (engine OFF), backprobe signal.
2. Loosen TPS mounting screws enough to rotate slightly.
3. With throttle closed (but butterfly seated), adjust TPS until signal voltage matches spec (factory spec — if unknown, set ~0.5 V).
4. Slowly open throttle to ensure smooth ramp and no sticking.
5. Tighten screws and recheck signal.
- Note: some modern ECUs require a specific idle/idle relearn or TPS calibration via scan tool after mechanical adjustment—perform that if required.

9) Replacement (ordered)
- Remove battery earth only if recommended by repair manual for your ECU, otherwise keep system powered for voltage checks.
- Steps:
1. Disconnect electrical connector.
2. Remove mounting screws and withdraw TPS from throttle body.
3. Install new TPS in same orientation, fit screws finger tight.
4. Reconnect connector, perform the adjustment or calibration steps above and/or use scan tool to relearn.
5. Clear codes and road test.

10) Final verification and clearing faults (ordered)
- Clear stored ECU codes with scanner.
- Start engine, watch idle and TPS live data while moving throttle. Ensure smooth voltage sweep and no code returns.
- Road test under load to confirm symptoms fixed.

11) Why the repair fixes the fault (concise theory)
- Bad TPS or its misalignment gives the ECU an incorrect or noisy throttle signal. The ECU then miscalculates required fuel and timing (and may disable features), causing idle issues, hesitation, or surging. Replacing or correctly adjusting the TPS restores a smooth, linear voltage signal that accurately represents driver demand. Repairing wiring or shaft wear removes intermittent or step changes in the signal. Clearing codes/relearning lets the ECU use the corrected input, restoring normal fueling and control logic.

12) Troubleshooting if fault persists (short)
- If new TPS and correct signal but problem remains: check throttle body mechanical wear, idle air control or EGR behavior, intake leaks, wiring intermittents, ECU ground integrity, or ECU faults.

End.
rteeqp73

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

1981 HINO SUPER DOLPHIN Ad 昭和56年CM 日野 スーパードルフィン.

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