- Safety first (read and follow before doing anything)
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock rear wheels so truck cannot roll.
- Stop the engine, let it cool fully (hot coolant/metal can burn) and disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental starting.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and sturdy footwear. Keep loose clothing/jewellery away from moving parts.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby and ensure good lighting and ventilation.

- What “drive belt” means here
- On Hino Super F Series GH1H you will typically be dealing with accessory belts (V‑belts or a ribbed/serpentine belt) that drive the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, A/C compressor, etc.
- The exact number and routing of belts vary by engine and equipment — use the belt routing diagram in the factory workshop manual or under‑hood decal before starting.

- Tools you will need (each tool followed by what it is and how to use it)
- Socket set with ratchet
- What: A set of sockets (metric sizes) and a ratchet handle used to remove and install nuts and bolts.
- How to use: Select the socket that fits the bolt head snugly, place on the bolt, turn the ratchet handle clockwise to tighten or counterclockwise to loosen. Use a longer handle or breaker bar for stuck bolts.
- Breaker bar
- What: A long non‑ratcheting bar for extra leverage to break loose tight or rusted fasteners.
- How to use: Fit an appropriate socket on the end and apply steady force. Do not use sudden jerks; apply controlled force to avoid stripping heads or injury.
- Torque wrench
- What: A wrench that lets you tighten bolts to a specific torque (tightness) value.
- How to use: Set the specified torque, tighten until the wrench clicks (or reads the value) to avoid over/under tightening. Always use manufacturer torque specs when re‑installing critical bolts.
- Combination wrenches (metric)
- What: Open-end/box wrenches useful where sockets won’t fit.
- How to use: Fit the correct size to the nut or bolt; pull the wrench toward you to avoid slipping.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- What: Basic tools to remove small screws, caps, or clips.
- How to use: Match the screwdriver tip to the screw head, apply steady pressure and turn.
- Pry bar or large flat screwdriver
- What: A stiff bar used to lever belts off pulleys or to position pulleys slightly.
- How to use: Gently pry against a safe edge on the pulley or bracket — don’t lever on thin castings or bearings.
- Belt tensioning tool or long pry bar / suitable length ratchet (depending on system)
- What: For manually released tensioners you need a tool to rotate the tensioner pulley; for measuring tension a spring scale or dedicated belt tension gauge is used.
- How to use: Insert the tool on the tensioner square/bolt and rotate the tensioner to relieve belt tension. For tension measurement, follow gauge instructions or measure deflection per manual.
- Belt tension gauge (recommended if replacing V‑belts)
- What: A device that measures belt tension/deflection to ensure correct preload.
- How to use: Follow the gauge’s instructions; press at a specified point and read tension or deflection and adjust until in spec.
- Flashlight or work lamp
- What: Bright light to see pulleys and routing.
- How to use: Place so it illuminates the engine bay without glare into your eyes.
- Protective gloves and rags
- What: Gloves protect hands from cuts and grease; rags wipe oil/grease.
- How to use: Wear gloves; keep rags handy to clean hands and wipe pulleys.
- Wheel chocks and jack stands (if needed for access)
- What: Chocks prevent vehicle movement. A hydraulic jack lifts and jack stands support the vehicle safely.
- How to use: Chock wheels first; if you lift the front, use the jack at manufacturer lift points, then place jack stands under a solid frame point. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Pen and paper or camera
- What: To document belt routing and bolt positions.
- How to use: Take photos of the belt routing before removal or draw a quick diagram.

- Extra tools you may need and why
- Harmonic balancer/fan clutch puller (only if fan or hub must be removed to access belts)
- Why: Some trucks require removal of the engine fan to reach belts; removing the fan sometimes needs a special puller to prevent damage.
- Impact wrench (optional)
- Why: Speeds removal of stubborn bolts, but use with care; use torque wrench for final tightening.
- Replacement tensioner or idler pulley tool (if replacement parts are different)
- Why: Replacement tensioners sometimes require specific bolt alignments or special sockets.

- Parts you may need and why
- Correct replacement drive belt(s) (OEM part numbers or equivalent)
- Why: Belts wear, crack, glaze, or stretch. Replace if cracked, frayed, glazed, or the rubber is hardened. Replace multiple belts at once if similar age/wear.
- What to get: Exact length/profile for the GH1H engine — bring the old belt(s) to parts shop or reference the workshop manual/parts catalog for OEM part numbers.
- Tensioner assembly (automatic tensioner) or idler pulley(s)
- Why: Tensioners and idler pulleys have bearings that wear and can seize or rattle. Recommended to replace if noisy, rough, or if they have excessive play.
- Accessory drive pulleys (if bearing failure is detected)
- Why: A faulty alternator, water pump, or power steering pump bearing can destroy a new belt quickly; inspect pulleys and replace if rough or noisy.
- Fan clutch, bolts, or fan shroud fasteners (if removed and damaged)
- Why: Corroded fasteners can break when reinstalled; replace to avoid repeated disassembly.
- Belt routing diagram / service manual (printed or digital)
- Why: Ensures correct routing and tension specifications; essential for correct installation.

- Inspection before removal
- Photograph or sketch the belt routing from multiple angles to ensure correct reinstallation.
- Inspect each belt for cracks, missing ribs, glazing, oil contamination, or uneven wear.
- Turn accessory pulleys by hand (with belts off if needed) to feel for roughness or play — noisy or rough bearings indicate replacement.
- Check tensioner condition: spring weakness, corrosion, or rough rotation mean replace.

- Removing the old belt (general procedure)
- Identify if the system uses an automatic tensioner or manual adjustment (look for a pulley on a spring arm vs a fixed bracket).
- If automatic tensioner:
- Use the correct socket or wrench on the tensioner bolt or square drive.
- Rotate the tensioner to relieve tension and slip the belt off the smallest accessible pulley first, then remove from others.
- If manual/manual adjustment:
- Loosen the adjusting lock bolt on the alternator/pump bracket to relieve tension.
- Move the accessory (loosened) toward the engine to create slack and remove the belt from pulleys.
- Keep track of any spacers or shims removed and note their positions.

- Cleaning and checking pulleys after removal
- Wipe pulley grooves with a clean rag to remove oil and debris.
- Inspect pulley grooves for scoring or build-up which can cause belt slippage.
- Spin pulleys by hand (where possible) to check for smooth rotation; any roughness means the pulley or its bearing should be replaced.

- Installing the new belt
- Compare the new belt to the old: same length, width, and profile.
- Route the new belt around pulleys following your photos/diagram; leave the tensioner or largest pulley for last so you can create slack.
- If automatic tensioner:
- Rotate the tensioner to allow the belt to slip over the final pulley, then slowly release the tensioner so it applies tension to the new belt.
- If manual adjustment:
- Fit the belt on all pulleys, then move the adjustable accessory to apply correct tension; tighten the adjustment lock bolt snugly and then final torque per manual using a torque wrench.
- If using a tension gauge, set the tension to the manufacturer’s specification. If you don’t have a gauge, use the manual deflection method in the workshop manual (usually measured at the longest span).

- How to check belt tension (beginner options)
- Preferred: Use a belt tension gauge and follow the tool manual or factory spec.
- Practical beginner method: Press on the longest span with moderate thumb force; deflection should be neither too loose (belt flops) nor overly tight (pulley bearings strain). Use the workshop manual’s deflection value if available.
- After initial run, recheck tension and retighten adjustment bolts to torque spec.

- Reassembly and final tightening
- Reinstall any components removed for access (fan, fan shroud, covers) and replace any damaged fasteners.
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
- Use the torque wrench to tighten all fasteners that have specified torques per the service manual.

- Start-up and test
- Start engine and listen for unusual noises: squeal indicating slip, rubbing, or bearing noise.
- Observe belt tracking on pulleys for a minute; if the belt walks off to one side, stop engine and correct routing or tension.
- Allow engine to reach operating temperature and recheck belts and fasteners.
- Recheck belt tension after a short test drive and again after the first few hours of operation.

- Common beginner mistakes to avoid
- Not photographing belt routing — leads to incorrect reinstallation.
- Forgetting to disconnect the battery — risk of accidental start.
- Over‑tightening belts — stresses bearings and shortens life.
- Replacing only the belt when noisy pulleys/tensioners are present — new belt will fail fast if pulley bearings are bad.

- When to replace additional parts
- Replace tensioner or idler if it’s noisy, has play, or doesn’t maintain tension.
- Replace accessory pulley or driven unit if bearing is rough or has radial play.
- Replace multiple belts at once if they’re the same age — saves repeat labor and avoids mismatched wear.

- Where to get parts and specifications
- Use the official Hino parts catalog or authorized dealer for OEM part numbers for your GH1H model.
- If OEM parts aren’t available, buy high‑quality aftermarket belts (same profile and length). Keep the old belt and part number for reference.

- Final safety and maintenance tips
- After replacement, check belts at the first service interval and then monthly for the first few weeks.
- Dispose of old belts and oil‑contaminated rags properly.
- If anything feels uncertain (hard‑to‑remove fasteners, fan removal, torque specs), consult the Hino workshop manual or a professional mechanic.

- Quick checklist before you start (use as reminder)
- Battery disconnected, wheels chocked, photo of routing taken, correct replacement belt on hand, required tools available, safety gear on.

- If you prefer the exact belt part numbers and torque values for GH1H, consult the Hino workshop manual/parts catalog or an authorized dealer for precise fitment and tightening specs before final torqueing.


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Hino Truck Orientation

Semi Truck Carrier Bearing Install Subscribe please! How to instal a Carrier bearing on a semi truck.

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