After being revealed as a concept car at the 2001 Tokyo Motor Show, under the Hyundai TB name, the Getz had its world premiere at the 2002 Geneva Motor Show. It was designed at Hyundai's European engineering center in Frankfurt, Germany, and was released in three and five-door hatchback body styles.

The Hyundai Getz was manufactured at the factory in Ulsan, South Korea, between 2002 and 2011, and at the Hyundai Motor India factory in Chennai, India, between 2004 and 2009. It was also assembled for the local markets in Barcelona, Venezuela (MMC Automotriz), in Kulim, Malaysia (Inokom) and in Taipei, Taiwan (SYM Motors).
Facelift
Facelift Hyundai Getz 1.6 3-door
Facelift Hyundai Getz S 3-door
Facelift Hyundai Getz 5-door

In the autumn of 2005, the facelifted version of the Getz was revealed at the Frankfurt Motor Show. It gained new front and rear styling, with rounded headlights and a redesigned grille, as well as a new 1.5-litre diesel engine option (in Europe) and a new 1.4-litre petrol engine, upgraded dash and interior fascia and trim.

In the United Kingdom, air conditioning and side airbags were fitted to the CDX as standard equipment.

This facelifted model, however, was not offered in Venezuela (where it sold as the Dodge Brisa). Instead, the local arm of Hyundai continued to sell the pre-2005 model.
Regional variants

In Venezuela, the Hyundai Getz was assembled locally featuring its 1.6 Litre petrol engine, mated to a 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic transmission. Also the Getz was badge-engineered as the Dodge Brisa in its 1.3-litre, 4-speed manual transmission configuration. This new model replaced the Accent-based Brisa that debuted in that market in April 2002. In recent years, Hyundai Getz where factory equipped with a CNG kit, allowing dual fuel use of petrol or natural gas. Assembly of the Getz ended in 2014 in Venezuela.

In Malaysia, the Getz was locally assembled as the Inokom Getz. The model offers both manual and automatic transmission with a single 1.4-litre petrol engine option.[13] In the last quarter of 2009, Inokom launched a limited edition Getz SE, which featured leather interior, sporty body kit and grill and side mirrors with indicators. Only 300 units of this variant were produced.
Electric version

Between 2008 and 2011, a fully electric version of the Getz was sold in New Zealand and Australia called the Blade Electron. This model has a top speed of 120 km/h (75 mph) and a range of 120 kilometres (75 mi) on a full charge.

At launch there were three petrol engines available, a 1.1-litre, a 1.3-litre and a 1.6-litre, and one diesel option, a 1.5-litre three-cylinder unit, licensed from VM Motori. When the Getz was introduced to the market in Australia it was brought out with only the 1.5l petrol G4EC engine. After the facelift in 2005, a new 1.4-litre petrol engine replaced the 1.3-litre unit, and a new 1.5-litre four-cylinder diesel engine, with variable geometry turbocharger and two power output levels, was introduced in place of the three-cylinder option. The Diesel engines never made it to Australia. But the introduction of the 1.4 L DOHC and the 1.6 L DOHC replaced the 1.5 L motor. The 1.4 L Engine though very efficient and reliable was no power plant when it came to using the a/c whilst climbing a hill. Especially in the automatic transmission However, the availability of engine options varied depending on market.

There were four-speed automatic transmission options, with overdrive and torque converter, for the 1.3-litre and 1.6-litre petrol versions, and after the facelift also for the 1.4-litre, and five-speed manual options for all engines.
In the United Kingdom, the trim levels offered were GSI, CDX and Sport,while in New Zealand, they were XD and XE.

In Australia, the trim levels were XL, GL and FX. After the facelift, the XL and GL were dropped, while the FX was replaced by the sporty SXi trim, The rest of the models were referred to as "Getz". Half-way through 2006, the SXi was dropped, leaving just the base Getz with the option of 1.4 or 1.6-litre engines. In early 2008, the Getz 1.4 was named S, and the 1.6 was named SX.

The top level generally included, among other features, front and side airbags, anti-lock braking system (ABS) with electronic brakeforce distribution (EBD), remote central locking with alarm, 14-inch alloy wheels, front fog lights, air conditioning, heated electric door mirrors, electric tilt and slide sunroof, electric front and rear windows, CD player and trip computer. The 1.6-litre version featured 15-inch alloy wheels. As optional features there were leather upholstery, metallic paint or satellite navigation.In Australia, electronic stability control (ESC), traction control (TSC), bluetooth handsfree and MP3 player with USB connectivity were also offered.

A special trim level called the Getz Cross features SUV design elements such as extended wheel arches, roof rack, raised suspension and larger wheels. It was offered with the 1.4-litre and 1.6-litre petrol engines, or with the 1.5-litre diesel engine.

In South Africa the SR sport edition was also introduced in 2010 and was manufactured up until 2012.This edition included full leather interior, bodykit, special SR rims and badges among others.

In late 2008, the i20 was introduced, replacing the Getz in most markets. In Europe, the Getz co-existed with the i20 until it was completely phased out in 2011. The Getz continued to be sold in the Australian market until December 2010. In India, the car was discontinued due to falling demand as compared to the warm response received by the i20 and the introduction of the new Euro 4 emission norms from May 2010.

In mid-2011, the Click was replaced in the South Korean market by the Hyundai Accent WIT. In Japan, where it was known as the TB, the car was discontinued shortly before Hyundai officially announced the departure of its passenger car division from the market in late-2009. Countries that do not offer the i20 or Accent hatchback have designated the i10 as the Getz's replacement.

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Goal: replace/inspect the serpentine (drive) belt on a Hyundai Getz and understand every component, how the system works, why it fails, what can go wrong, and exactly how to do the job step‑by‑step as a beginner mechanic.

Quick overview (analogy)
- The serpentine belt is like a single rubber loop that drives several devices on the engine — think of it as the conveyor belt in a factory that powers the machines. If it snaps or slips, the machines stop working: alternator stops charging, power steering can fail, A/C stops, and in some engines the water pump may stop circulating coolant. The tensioner is a spring-loaded pulley that keeps correct belt tension — like an auto-tightening idler on a tape.

Main components (detailed)
- Serpentine belt (drive belt): multi-ribbed rubber belt that wraps multiple pulleys. Ribs run along grooves in pulleys to transfer torque.
- Crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer: drives the belt; largest pulley at bottom of engine. If this is damaged, belt problems follow.
- Alternator pulley: driven by belt to generate electricity for electrical systems and charge the battery.
- Power steering pump pulley (if equipped): drives hydraulic pump for power steering.
- A/C compressor pulley: runs the air-conditioning compressor (clutches on A/C pulley engage when A/C is on).
- Idler pulley(s): unpowered pulleys that guide the belt and maintain routing.
- Tensioner pulley (automatic tensioner): spring-loaded arm with pulley that keeps correct tension and takes up slack.
- Belt routing diagram/sticker: usually under the hood or in manual — shows correct path.
- Fasteners: bolts for tensioner, idler, alternator adjustment or pivot bolts, and crank pulley bolt (you won’t remove crank unless necessary).
- Optional: splash shield/engine cover (may need removal).

Theory — why this repair is needed and how the system works
- Function: The crankshaft turns; the serpentine belt transfers that rotation to accessories: alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, sometimes water pump. The tensioner takes up slack and keeps constant tension automatically in most Getz models.
- Why it fails:
- Wear: rubber degrades, ribs crack, edges fray, pieces chunk out.
- Contamination: oil or coolant on belt causes slipping and rapid degradation.
- Heat: high temp accelerates aging.
- Tensioner/idler bearing failure: if a pulley bearing seizes or gets noisy, belt wears or jumps.
- Misalignment: bent or loose pulleys cause belt to ride off.
- Signs you need the repair:
- Squealing or chirping from the front of the engine on startup or during acceleration.
- Visible cracks, glazing (shiny surface), missing ribs, or fraying.
- Accessory failure: battery warning light, weak or no power steering, A/C not working.
- Belt slapping, wobbling, or visible slack.
- Consequences if ignored:
- Loss of alternator charging -> battery drains.
- Loss of power steering -> heavy steering (safety hazard).
- Overheating if serpentine drives water pump on that engine.
- Total stall if belt snaps at speed.

What can go wrong during/after replacement
- Wrong routing -> accessories not driven or belt will come off.
- Wrong belt size or width -> improper fit, slipping, or premature wear.
- Tensioner not seated or weak -> belt too loose or too tight (bearing stress).
- Seized idler/tensioner/alternator pulley -> immediate failure and snapped belt.
- Oil/coolant on new belt -> rapid failure.
- Not checking pulley alignment -> belt walks off.
- Starting engine with tools or fingers near new belt -> dangerous.

Tools and materials
- New correct serpentine belt (match part number/length and rib count).
- Socket set (common sizes 10–19 mm or 3/8" & 1/2" drive), long breaker bar.
- Appropriate sized socket or hex for tensioner square peg (some tensioners use a 14 mm or 15 mm bolt; some accept a 3/8" or 1/2" drive on tensioner square).
- Belt tensioner tool (optional but makes it easier in tight spaces).
- Screwdrivers, pry bar (small) — only for careful positioning.
- Torque wrench (for bolts if you remove tensioner/idler).
- Flashlight.
- Gloves and eye protection.
- Chalk/marker for marking routing if needed.
- Clean rag, degreaser if belt area contaminated.

Preparation & safety
- Work on a cold engine. Let it cool.
- Park on level ground, handbrake on, wheels chocked.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you will be removing alternator wiring or fear accidental shorting (optional but recommended when working near electrical connectors).
- Locate the belt routing diagram (under hood or in manual). If no diagram, draw one or take a photo from multiple angles before removing the belt.

Step-by-step procedure (typical Hyundai Getz with automatic tensioner)
Time estimate: 30–60 minutes for a beginner.

1) Inspect current belt and pulleys
- With engine off and cool: visually inspect the belt for cracks across ribs, missing chunks, glazing (shiny hard surface), and correct seating.
- Spin pulleys by hand (use a socket on alternator pulley to help): listen for rough bearings, grinding, or play. Replace any noisy/seized pulley.
- Check belt routing and find the routing diagram.

2) Accessing the belt
- Remove any engine covers or splash guards that block access.
- Loosen any obstructing components (e.g., intake duct) if needed for better access.

3) Relieve tension and remove old belt
- Identify the tensioner pulley: small pulley on a spring arm.
- Attach appropriate socket or tensioner tool to the tensioner square or bolt.
- Rotate the tensioner (direction depends on model — usually clockwise or counterclockwise) to relieve tension. Note: For many Hyundai Getz engines you rotate the tensioner clockwise (but do not rely absolutely on memory—look at tensioner arm and movement).
- While holding the tensioner moved, slip the belt off a convenient pulley (usually the easiest one like the alternator or idler).
- Slowly release the tensioner back to its position.
- Remove the belt from the rest of the pulleys and take it out. Keep the old belt to compare size and rib pattern.

4) Inspect pulleys and tensioner
- With belt removed, re-check all pulleys for smooth rotation and no side play. Replace any pulley with rough bearings or play.
- Inspect tensioner for free, springy movement and no grinding. If weak or noisy, replace it now (it’s cheap insurance).

5) Fit the new belt (routing)
- Compare new belt to old for length and rib profile.
- Lay the new belt along the pulleys following the routing diagram. Route it so ribs fit the grooved pulleys and the smooth side contacts idlers where appropriate.
- Do NOT put the belt on the tensioner last while the tensioner is under full load — it’s normal: put belt around everything leaving the tensioner pulley for last.

6) Apply tensioner and seat belt
- Rotate the tensioner again to create slack, slip the belt over the tensioner pulley, then slowly release the tensioner to apply tension.
- Ensure the belt sits fully in the grooves of every pulley. Check alignment visually — ribs should be in the grooves and belt edges should align with pulley flanges.

7) Double-check and test
- Visually inspect routing, seating, and that the belt is not twisted.
- If you removed any bolts or components, torque them to spec (consult factory manual for exact torque; typical pulleys/tensioner bolts are torqued to ~30–60 Nm depending on part — check manual).
- Reconnect battery if disconnected.
- Start engine and observe the belt at idle: listen for squeal, watch for wobble, and observe A/C, alternator, and power steering operation.
- Let engine run for a few minutes and re-check belt seating. Shut off and re-check tensioner and pulleys for heat or noise.
- After a short test drive, re-inspect.

Checks & measurements
- Deflection: if tensioner is manual (not common on Getz), check midspan deflection per manual. For automatic tensioner, ensure the tensioner arm is not at its travel limit (it should be around middle travel and spring loaded).
- Alignment: use a straight edge if concerned — pulleys should co-planar.
- Noise: a brief squeal on cold starts is normal sometimes; persistent loud squeal indicates slipping or misalignment.

Replacing the tensioner or idler (basic)
- Relieve tension, remove belt, remove tensioner/idler bolts, install new part, torque to spec, reinstall belt. Replace tensioner if it shows weakness, rough bearings, leaks, or if the arm is way off center.

Common troubleshooting after replacement
- Immediate loud squeal: likely misrouted belt, contaminated belt (oil), glazing, or a seized pulley. Stop engine and check.
- Belt walks off: pulley misalignment or incorrect belt width.
- Alternator light still on / battery drains: wiring issue or alternator damaged, check alternator belt seating and tension.
- Belt wears quickly: oil/coolant contamination, wrong belt, or misaligned pulley.
- New belt breaks quickly: defective belt, wrong size, or pulley damage (sharp edge) cutting it.

Parts & replacement intervals
- Replace belt every 60–100k km or sooner if cracked, glazed, or damaged. Replace tensioner/idler whenever bearings show wear or when replacing belt at high mileage (good preventive maintenance).

Final tips (practical)
- Always have the correct routing diagram before removing the belt — photograph it if none is present.
- Never pry on the tensioner spring arm with metal tools while someone else starts the engine — dangerous.
- Replace pulleys/tensioner as a set if bearings are older than belt life; saving on parts now often saves a breakdown later.
- Keep the work area clean; a belt contaminated with oil or coolant will fail quickly — fix leaks first.

If you want, I can give a brief list of likely socket sizes and a simple belt routing sketch tailored to the Getz engine code you have (1.1, 1.3, 1.4, 1.6 petrol or diesel), but you asked no questions — so I stopped here.
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