1) Goal summary (one line)
- Make the wheel planes meet the manufacturer’s geometry so tires contact the road correctly, steering is centered, and handling and tire wear are normal.

2) Pre-checks (why: to ensure measurements are meaningful)
- Inspect tyres (size, wear pattern, pressure) — uneven wear indicates which angle is off; correct pressure and mount identical size/type.
- Check wheel bearings, tyre runout, rim damage — radial or lateral runout and loose bearings falsify readings.
- Check suspension/steering for play or damage: tie‑rod ends, drag links, ball joints, control‑arm bushes, strut mounts, top mounts, sway bar links. Reason: worn/loose parts move under load and change geometry, so adjustments won’t hold.
- Check ride height and springs for sag — camber/caster depend on ride height. If springs sag, alignment changes when vehicle sits on wheels.
- Confirm steering wheel returns to near center and there’s no power steering fault.

3) Replace/repair faulty parts first (why: geometry must be mechanically correct)
- Replace worn tie‑rod ends and center links: they set toe and steering centricity. Fault fix: removing play locks the steering input to wheel position so toe adjustment holds and steering isn’t vague or off‑center.
- Replace worn ball joints/control‑arm bushes: they change suspension pivot locations and camber/caster under load. Fix: restoring correct pivots resets swing arc so static geometry matches design.
- Replace bent control arms/knuckles/steering arms or a twisted rear beam: bends create uncorrectable offsets — replacement restores factory geometry.
- Fix leaking or collapsed struts/springs: dampers/springs affect ride height and dynamic camber/caster; new units restore correct static geometry.

4) Equipment/setup (why these steps matter)
- Use a calibrated 3D wheel alignment machine or equivalent (turntables + toe plates + camber gauges). Accurate measurement is required to set small-angle specs.
- Put car on level alignment rack; load suspension to normal ride height (either lower onto turnplates so tires bear weight or use appropriate lift procedure). Reason: alignment is defined with vehicle at static ride height.
- Center steering wheel mechanically or with alignment head; lock steering to prevent drift while adjusting.

5) Measurement order and theory
- Rear (thrust angle/toe) first: measure rear toe and thrust line. Theory: rear toe/thrust determines the direction the rear axle points. If thrust ≠ vehicle centerline, the front will have to be set offset to track straight.
- Front camber & caster next: measure camber (angle of wheel tilt) and caster (steering axis tilt). Theory:
- Camber affects tire contact patch; negative camber increases corner grip but causes inner-edge wear if excessive.
- Caster affects steering returnability and high‑speed stability; altering caster also affects steer camber under steering.
- Front toe last: set dynamic toe after camber/caster are correct. Theory: toe controls scrub/feathering and initial turn-in; small toe changes cause large tire wear and pulling.

6) Adjustment sequence (ordered, with why)
- Ensure rear toe/thrust is within spec:
- If adjustable (Getz rear is typically a torsion beam — rear toe may be set with eccentric bolts/shims or not adjustable). If non‑adjustable and out of spec, replace/repair beam or axle. Fix: bringing rear thrust in line prevents the car from tracking sideways and reduces steering wheel offset.
- Set camber/caster (front):
- Camber: adjust at strut top or eccentric bolts on lower control arm as applicable. Move camber toward spec. Fix: corrects inside/outside tire wear and restores correct contact patch.
- Caster: adjust using strut mounting or control arm position if adjustable on this model. Ensure caster is matched L/R as much as possible. Fix: improves steering return and straight‑line stability; asymmetry causes steering pull and off‑center wheel.
- Center steering wheel:
- With camber/caster corrected, adjust the steering wheel position by equalizing tie‑rod lengths left/right while keeping toe setting minimal until final toe. Fix: ensures driver sees straight wheel when vehicle tracks straight.
- Set front toe (last):
- Adjust inner tie‑rod lengths to reach specified toe (usually total toe close to zero or slight toe‑in). Fix: correct toe eliminates feathering and wandering, stabilizes steering.
- Torque all fasteners to spec with suspension loaded (vehicle at ride height) or follow manufacturer tightening sequence. Reason: tightening unloaded can change geometry when vehicle sits under its own weight.

7) Verification and finishing
- Recheck all angles after torquing bolts because tightening can shift pivots.
- Road‑test with a pre‑defined test route (straight acceleration, steady‑state corner, straight run) and recheck alignment after a short drive. Fixes validated: confirms no settling or binding and that steering is centered and free from pull.
- Reinspect wheel alignment after 50–100 km and again after component replacement if necessary.

8) How specific repairs fix symptoms (concise mapping)
- Pull to one side + uneven inner wear → usually toe or thrust angle or uneven camber; if tied to suspension play → worn tie‑rods/ball joints. Repair: replacing parts restores fixed pivot positions so geometry can be set.
- Excessive inner-edge wear on front tires → excessive negative camber or excessive toe-out. Repair: camber/caster adjustment and correcting bent components.
- Feathering across tire tread → incorrect toe. Repair: set toe within spec eliminates scrub.
- Steering wheel off‑center but car drives straight → rear thrust misaligned or uneven toe L/R. Repair: correct rear toe/thrust or replace bent rear beam.
- Wandering and poor stability → incorrect caster or uneven caster L/R, worn bushes. Repair: restore caster and fix worn bushes to stabilize steering return and directional stability.

9) Practical notes for Hyundai Getz specifics
- Front: MacPherson strut — camber commonly adjusted at strut top or eccentric bolts; caster limited by strut top or control arm position. Rear: torsion beam — usually limited to toe adjustment or none; a bent beam requires replacement.
- Always use the Getz factory service manual for exact adjustment points, bolt torques, and angle specs. If rear is non‑adjustable and off spec, do not try to force front to compensate — repair axle.

10) Safety and quality control (brief)
- Always use jack stands or an alignment rack; do adjustments on wheels hanging only if instructed by manual — most alignments require static ride height.
- Final signoff: torque record, printout of post‑alignment readings, road test report.

End.
rteeqp73

Hyundai Getz In Depth Tour: discover all the hidden features Hey, this is an in depth tour, review, based on a Hyundai Getz. I take you all around the car, showing you almost every feature.

Hyundai getz performance exhaust system

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