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Hino Dutro WU and XZU Models Series Workshop Manual download

0) Safety first: engine off, key out, parking brake on, wheels chocked, engine cool, gloves/eye protection. Have the correct replacement belt and the vehicle service manual (for routing diagram and torque specs).

Ordered procedure with theory integrated:

1) Locate the belt routing diagram and identify all driven accessories (crank, alternator, water pump, power‑steering pump, A/C compressor, idler(s), tensioner).
- Theory: correct routing gives required wrap angles on driven pulleys so friction transmits torque. Wrong routing changes loads and can cause slip or accessory overload.

2) Visually and manually inspect the existing belt and all pulleys.
- Check belt ribs for cracking, glazing, missing chunks or oil contamination. Check pulley faces for scoring and bearings for play/noise.
- Theory: a worn or contaminated belt loses coefficient of friction and will slip; bad pulley bearings or misalignment create vibration, heat and rapid belt wear.

3) Relieve belt tension and remove the old belt.
- Locate the automatic tensioner (spring loaded) or manual adjuster. Use the proper sized wrench/serpentine tool on the tensioner boss and rotate it to reduce tension, then slip the belt off the smallest pulley and remove it.
- Theory: the tensioner applies spring preload to maintain belt tension despite thermal expansion and wear. Releasing it creates slack to remove the belt safely.

4) Inspect and, if marginal, replace the tensioner and idler pulleys and any accessory bearings.
- Spin pulleys by hand: listen/feel for roughness or slop. Replace any with noise, side play or rough rotation.
- Theory: a new belt on bad bearings will fail quickly. Tensioner and idlers control belt path and tension; worn ones reduce wrap, produce misalignment and cause slip/squeal.

5) Compare new belt to old: same length, rib count and profile.
- Theory: wrong belt geometry affects seating and tension distribution across ribs, causing premature failure.

6) Route the new belt per the diagram, leaving the tensioner pulley for last.
- Ensure ribs seat fully in pulley grooves and the belt is not twisted. For pulleys that accept more wrap (water pump/crank) make sure the belt wraps the intended arc.
- Theory: ribs engaging grooves transmit shear force across many contact points; full seating maximizes contact area and friction to drive accessories.

7) Reapply tension: rotate the automatic tensioner back to its operating position and allow it to take the belt, or if manual, adjust to specified tension/deflection.
- If manual: set belt deflection to the factory value (usually measured mid‑span under a specified force), or follow the manual’s torque/deflection spec.
- Theory: correct tension prevents slip (too loose) and excessive bearing/belt loads (too tight). Automatic tensioners maintain appropriate preload automatically; manual systems require measured adjustment.

8) Check alignment and tracking before starting.
- Make sure belt sits square in grooves on every pulley and pulleys are not axially offset.
- Theory: misalignment causes edge loading, rib wear, and reduces effective contact area causing slip and noise.

9) Start the engine and observe.
- Listen for squeal, watch belt tracking and accessory operation (charging light, power steering assist, A/C clutch engagement, coolant circulation).
- Theory: running confirms transfer of torque to accessories. Any slip or noise under load indicates remaining tension/pulley issues.

10) Road/idle recheck and retorque.
- After a short drive or engine run, recheck belt tension (if manual) and pulley fasteners. Reinspect for oil leaks that can contaminate the belt.
- Theory: new belts seat in and may require minor readjustment; catching oil leaks prevents recurring failure.

How this repair fixes common faults (short, theory-based):
- Squeal on cold start or rapid acceleration: usually caused by belt slip from low tension, glazing, or contaminated belt. Replacing the belt and restoring correct tension increases friction so the belt no longer slips—noise stops.
- Charging system fault or dimming lights: alternator pulley slipping reduces RPM and output. Correct routing/tension restores proper alternator speed and charging.
- Loss/whine in power steering or weak assist: belt slipping at power‑steering pump reduces hydraulic pressure. Proper tension restores pump speed and pressure.
- A/C not cooling: compressor underdriven due to slip or disengaged clutch; new belt and correct tension allow full compressor drive.
- Overheating or intermittent coolant circulation: if water‑pump drive slips, coolant flow reduces; repair restores pump torque and flow.
- Rapid belt wear/failure: caused by misaligned pulleys, bad bearings, or contamination. Replacing belt plus worn pulleys/tensioner and correcting alignment restores proper load distribution and belt life.

Practical notes (concise):
- Always replace a very old/glazed belt rather than just retensioning.
- Replace tensioner/idlers if life is comparable to the belt or if bearings are bad.
- Fix oil leaks before installing a new belt; oil shortens belt life immediately.
- Use factory routing and torque specs from the Hino workshop manual for final torques and tensioner settings.

That’s the ordered, theory‑oriented procedure and how each action eliminates causes of belt-related faults.
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