Tools & equipment
- 4-wheel alignment rack with turn plates and thrust axis capability (preferred) or two-post lift + turn plates + string/laser system
- Wheel clamps / targets (for alignment computer) or toe plates and tape measure
- Alignment head sensors or camber/caster gauges (digital or mechanical)
- Steering wheel locking tool / centering tool
- Torque wrench and standard/specialty sockets
- Breaker bar, ratchets, spanners, hex keys
- Pry bars, ball joint separator, pickle fork
- Impact gun (optional)
- Jack and heavy-duty jack stands (if not using a rack)
- Wheel chocks, chalk or marker for wheel position
- Penetrating oil, brake cleaner, rags
- Replacement parts as required (tie rod ends, inner tie rods, drag link/pitman/idler, control arm bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings, strut mounts)
- Service manual or factory specifications (toe, camber, caster, thrust angles, torque values, ride height)

Safety precautions
- Work on level surface or use certified alignment rack/lift rated for vehicle weight.
- Chock rear wheels, block wheels when lifting, set parking brake.
- Use jack stands if lifting — never rely solely on the jack.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Support suspension components when removing fasteners; coil springs can be dangerous.
- Follow torque specs from factory manual for all fasteners.
- If bearings or hubs are removed, use correct tools and new gaskets/pack grease as required.

Pre-alignment inspection (do not skip)
1. Verify tires: correct pressure, even wear, no bulges or separation. Replace tires if tread/wear is out of spec.
2. Inspect steering and suspension: play in tie rod ends, inner tie rods, ball joints, idler/pitman arm, control arm bushings, sway bar links, strut top mounts. Replace any worn parts before alignment.
3. Check wheel bearings for play and correct if needed.
4. Confirm ride height and springs are correct and equal left/right. Unequal ride height must be corrected.
5. Check and correct front-end geometry issues (bent components, damaged knuckles/hubs).
6. Ensure steering wheel is centered (if possible) and note alignment lock-to-lock range.

General alignment principles for Hino Dutro WU/XZU series
- Use factory specs for toe, camber and caster; truck models normally require toe to be set first, then camber and caster checks/adjustments. Rear axle thrust angle and rear toe alignment may be required.
- Most adjustments are made at the tie rod ends (toe), eccentric bolts or shims (camber/caster) and adjustable control arms or shims for thrust angle. Exact adjusters depend on model year/trim — consult workshop manual for location and method.

Step-by-step alignment procedure
(Assume alignment rack with computer and turn plates. If using manual tools, substitute toe-plates, camber gauge and string/laser method.)

1. Preparation
- Raise vehicle onto alignment rack; remove hub caps or wheel trim as required by clamps.
- Attach wheel clamps/targets to each wheel per alignment machine instructions. Ensure clamps are seated square on the wheel and wheel nut torque is correct.
- Lower vehicle onto turn plates so front wheels are on plates and rear on slip plates if required.
- Connect sensors to alignment computer, input vehicle make/model and wheelbase track width per prompts.
- Center steering wheel physically and lock it in place using steering wheel lock tool if provided.

2. Zero and initial readings
- Zero sensors per machine procedure. Turn wheels to specified angles when prompted (machine will request steering lock positions) so it can calculate caster.
- Read initial alignment values: front camber, caster, toe, rear toe and thrust angle. Record values.

3. Set camber & caster (if adjustable)
- Camber adjustment: If adjustable cams/struts/control arm shims exist, loosen the appropriate fasteners, adjust camber to factory spec, and tighten to torque. For eccentric cam bolts, rotate bolt to move camber. If camber not adjustable, record deviation; often requires replacement bent/damaged part or shim.
- Caster adjustment: Adjust via caster adjusters on control arm or by moving strut mounting position if applicable. Some trucks use shims on steering knuckle or eccentric cam bolts. Follow factory procedure for caster adjustment. Re-tighten to torque.
- After each camber/caster change, re-zero sensors and let the machine re-measure.

4. Set front toe
- With camber/caster in spec, adjust toe. Loosen the tie rod end jam nut. Rotate the outer tie rod (or inner, depending on system) to lengthen/shorten and change toe. Use alignment machine readout: aim for specified total toe or toe per wheel.
- After adjustment, torque tie rod jam nuts to spec. Re-check toe after torquing (jam nut torque can alter setting).

5. Center steering wheel / steering wheel alignment
- If toe changes moved the steering wheel off-center, re-center steering by adjusting tie rods equally left/right (not one-side only) until the wheel is centered. Confirm steering wheel is straight with wheels straight ahead. Lock steering wheel and re-check toe after centering.
- If required by procedure, set steering wheel angle in the alignment machine so final result centers the wheel.

6. Rear axle toe / thrust angle
- Measure rear axle toe (if dual-axle or single rear axle). Adjust using axle shims or adjustable tie rods/sliders on solid-axle rear ends. Adjust until thrust angle lines up with vehicle centerline and within spec.
- Thrust angle: ensure rear axle points straight down vehicle centerline so front and rear track are aligned (minimizes steering pull).

7. Final checks & torque
- Re-scan all alignment angles to ensure within spec: camber, caster, front toe, rear toe, thrust angle.
- Torque wheel nuts/lugs to spec.
- Tighten and torque all steering/suspension fasteners that were loosened during adjustment to factory torque values.
- Remove steering lock and confirm steering wheel returns straight after turning lock-to-lock a few times and rechecking alignment values (allow components to settle).
- Road test the vehicle at low speed then moderate speed; check for steering pull, wandering, vibration. After 5–10 miles re-check and re-torque jam nuts and wheel nuts if required, re-check toe.

How the tools are used (practical details)
- Wheel clamps/targets: clamp to wheel rim or bolt-on adapter. Alignment computer reads the targets to calculate angles. Ensure clamps are tight and seated; damaged rims can cause erroneous readings.
- Turn plates: placed under front wheels; rotate freely to measure caster as wheels are turned. Always clean plates and ensure they move freely and are aligned with pit.
- Camber gauge: placed on wheel rim or hub face; reads vertical tilt (degrees). Used to set camber by adjusting cam bolts/shims.
- Caster gauge: uses turn plates or a specific caster gauge; measures the change in camber as the wheel is turned a specified number of degrees to calculate caster angle.
- Toe plates/laser: measure distance between front and back of wheels to calculate toe. With laser/toe plates, ensure plates/sensors are parallel to vehicle centerline for accurate readings.
- Steering wheel lock/centering tool: holds steering wheel straight while adjustments are made — critical to prevent final wheel-off-center.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Skipping pre-inspection: worn tie rod ends, ball joints, or bushings will cause alignment to drift immediately after adjustment. Replace suspect parts first.
- Incorrect ride height: sagging springs or different ride heights left/right will change camber/caster once weight is applied — correct springs/height first.
- Not centering steering wheel: results in perfectly aligned wheels but crooked steering wheel. Center wheel by adjusting tie rods equally.
- Forgetting to torque jam nuts after adjustment: jam nuts can move and change toe. Always torque to spec and re-check.
- Using damaged or incorrectly positioned clamps: causes incorrect sensor readings. Use correct clamp adapters for rim type.
- Not accounting for tire wear or mismatched tires: mismatched diameter tread can cause thrust angle and pulling.
- Attempting to adjust non-adjustable components: some models require shims or replacement parts to change camber/caster — don’t force adjustments.
- Relying on final road test without re-checking: components can settle; re-check alignment after road test and re-torque where required.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Outer tie rod ends / inner tie rods
- Ball joints
- Control arm bushings or entire control arm assembly
- Steering idler/pitman arm or drag link (if excessive play)
- Wheel hub / bearing assemblies
- Strut mounts or coil springs (if damaged or sagging)
- Adjustment shims (for camber/caster or rear axle alignment)
Replace any part found worn beyond service limits before final alignment.

Notes & final advice
- Always use factory alignment specifications and torque values; they vary by model/year and must be followed for safe, stable handling.
- If you cannot bring angles within spec because of bent parts or non-adjustable limits, replace the bent/component or add required shims per workshop manual.
- Document initial and final readings and any parts replaced for warranty/service records.

Done.
rteeqp73

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Hino 300 maintenance service , replace engine oil, oil filter and fuel filter Hino 300 maintenance service , replace engine oil, oil filter and fuel filter #mechanic #mechanicjack #Hino #maintenance ...

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