Ordered workshop procedure — with theory and why each action fixes faults. Follow one cylinder at a time.

Preparations (why)
- Symptoms that indicate plugs: rough idle, misfire codes (P030x), poor fuel economy, hard start, loss of power. Bad plugs reduce spark energy and timing consistency, causing incomplete combustion.
- Parts/tools: correct OEM/aftermarket spark plugs (same heat range and electrode type), torque wrench, spark-plug socket (typically 16 mm / 5/8"), extension, swivel, ratchet, spark-plug gap tool, dielectric grease, compressed air or brush, gloves, safety glasses. If coil-on-plug (COP) use appropriate puller.
- Safety: work on a cold engine, disconnect negative battery terminal when removing multiple electrical connectors. Why: avoid burns, short circuits, or accidental cranking during access.

Step 1 — Identify engine layout and ignition type (COP or wires)
- Theory: COP means one coil per cylinder; older systems use a coil pack + wires. This determines removal order and components.
- Action: remove engine cover to expose coils/wires. Note: replace plugs one cylinder at a time to avoid mixing up ignition leads or introducing foreign matter into open cylinders.

Step 2 — Clean the area around each plug
- Theory: You must prevent debris falling into the combustion chamber. Dirt causes valves and piston damage or compression loss.
- Action: blow out or brush the area around the plug well. Remove fuel/dirt before opening.

Step 3 — Remove ignition coil or plug wire (one cylinder at a time)
- Theory: Access the plug and prevent coil/wire misplacement. If you remove multiple, label them.
- Action: disconnect electrical connector, unbolt coil, and pull straight up. For plug wires, pull the boot (not the wire) with twisting motion. Keep coil/wire with its cylinder.

Step 4 — Remove the old spark plug
- Theory: Correct removal prevents thread damage and lets you inspect the plug for diagnostic clues.
- Action: use spark-plug socket, extension and swivel if needed. Turn counterclockwise and extract. Inspect plug for color and deposits:
- Light tan/brown: normal.
- Black, sooty: rich mixture or weak spark.
- Oily: oil control failure (rings/guides).
- White/very hot-looking: lean condition or detonation/overheating.
- How this helps: visual inspection points to root cause beyond plugs.

Step 5 — Check and set the new plug gap (if not pre-gapped)
- Theory: Gap controls the spark length; too wide = misfires, too narrow = weak burn. Modern iridium/platinum often pre-gapped.
- Action: use gap tool to verify. Typical Jeep gasoline engines: around 0.035–0.045 in (0.9–1.1 mm). Use the factory spec for your exact engine. Adjust gently if needed.
- Why it fixes fault: correct gap restores required voltage conditions for consistent ignition.

Step 6 — Install the new plug by hand
- Theory: Cross-threading damages aluminum heads; hand-starting prevents that.
- Action: thread new plug in by hand, ensure it seats smoothly. If threads bind, stop and re-thread. Use anti-seize only if manufacturer permits (most modern plated plugs don’t need anti-seize). Seat the plug until finger-tight.

Step 7 — Torque the plug to spec
- Theory: Correct torque compresses the washer/seal and ensures thermal transfer; under-torque -> leaks/loosening; over-torque -> damaged threads or crushed insulator.
- Action: use torque wrench to factory spec. If manual unavailable, typical safe range for many Jeep engines: 18–25 N·m (13–18 ft·lb). For new (dry) plugs with tapered seat, follow manufacturer; for gasketed plugs follow spec. Never overtighten.
- How it fixes fault: proper sealing and heat transfer helps plug reach correct operating temperature and prevents blow-out or poor contact.

Step 8 — Reinstall coil/boot, apply dielectric grease to boot inside
- Theory: Dielectric grease prevents moisture ingress and reduces boot sticking; it does not conduct electricity so it must be used only on the boot, not the plug tip.
- Action: place coil/boot back, bolt down, reconnect electrical connector. For COP, ensure proper seating on the plug.
- How it fixes fault: restores solid electrical connection and prevents misfires due to poor contact/ARcing.

Step 9 — Repeat for each cylinder, one at a time
- Theory: Keeps wiring/coil identity correct and avoids debris entry.
- Action: repeat steps 2–8 for remaining cylinders.

Step 10 — Reconnect battery (if disconnected), start engine, verify
- Theory: Confirm repair removed the original symptom and no new ones were introduced.
- Action: clear any stored misfire codes with scanner (optional), start engine, listen for smooth idle, monitor for check-engine light, road test. If misfire code persists on a specific cylinder, swap coil/ignition lead with another cylinder: if the code follows the coil, coil is bad; if not, plug or injector/compression issue.

Why and how replacing plugs fixes faults — concise
- Spark plugs create the high-voltage spark that ignites the air–fuel mixture. Worn electrodes, wrong gap, carbon/oil deposits or damaged insulators reduce spark energy, timing consistency and combustion completeness. Replacing plugs restores correct spark formation and energy, which returns normal combustion, eliminating misfires, improving idle smoothness, restoring power and economy, and reducing emissions.
- Proper installation (gap, torque, clean wells, good coil/boot seating) ensures plugs operate at intended temperature and electrical environment. That prevents recurrence from installation faults (loose plug, mis-seated coil, poor ground).

Post-repair checks and follow-ups
- If misfire persists: test coils by swapping, inspect wiring and connectors, perform fuel injector tests, check compression and valve timing, check crank/cam sensors and vacuum leaks.
- Use OEM part numbers and correct heat range; using plugs that are too hot or too cold can cause pre-ignition or fouling.

Quick troubleshooting tactics
- Misfire code P030X after plug change -> swap coil to see if misfire moves.
- Persistent roughness on all cylinders -> ignition module/coil pack, fueling problem, or sensor issue.
- New plugs fouling quickly -> check fuel trim/air leaks, oil consumption, or weak ignition energy.

Done.
rteeqp73

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