1) What the “strut” is and what fails (theory)
- The strut is a small spring/plunger/detent assembly in the NSG370 selector mechanism that holds shift rails (or selector forks) in the correct axial/rotational position so dog teeth stay engaged.
- Failure modes: broken/weak spring, worn plunger or bore, or lost retaining clip. Result = gears popping out, false neutrals, hard/notchy shifts, or excessive axial play of the rails. Replacing the strut restores the detent force and positive axial retention so gear dogs remain meshed under load.

2) Confirm diagnosis (ordered checks)
- Check symptom pattern: pops out under torque, false neutrals, or can’t hold a gear.
- With suspension safe and wheels blocked, cycle shifter through all gears (engine off) and feel for play or inconsistent detents. Observe linkage for excessive freeplay. If symptoms localize to a single rail/gearset, suspect that rail’s strut.

3) Preparation and safety (ordered)
- Park on level, handbrake, block wheels, disconnect battery.
- Gather hand tools, snap‑ring pliers, drift punches, torque wrench, clean rags, replacement strut kit and gearbox manual.
- Drain gearbox oil to avoid spills when opening the case or removing covers.

4) Access (ordered)
- Remove shift linkage/center console and any external obstructions.
- Depending on vehicle/version, remove transfer case/driveshaft or unbolt top cover of the gearbox to expose selector rails. Some NSG370 jobs require gearbox removal; follow vehicle-specific steps in the workshop manual.
- Theory: the strut is internal to the selector/rail assembly, so you must expose that assembly to remove the plunger/spring and associated retainers.

5) Disassemble selector rails (ordered)
- Mark shifting rail positions and take photos to preserve orientation. Remove bolts, snap rings and withdraw selector rails/forks enough to access the strut housing. Keep track of shims/plates.
- Theory: rails must be removed in the correct sequence so the geometry and end‑play can be re-established at reassembly.

6) Remove and inspect the strut and surrounding components (ordered)
- Extract the plunger, spring and retainer from the strut bore (use small magnet/pipe if necessary). Inspect bore for wear, pitting or scoring. Check rails, forks, bushings and mating faces for wear or burrs.
- Theory: a worn bore or plunger will not give the required detent force or axial location even with a new spring; replacing only the plunger/spring fixes the detent but not other worn parts.

7) Replace the strut assembly (ordered)
- Fit the new plunger, spring and any new retaining clip/seal from the kit. Ensure the plunger moves freely and springs back positively. Lightly lubricate with correct gearbox oil – do not use grease that will attract dirt or impede movement.
- Theory: the new spring/plunger restores axial/detent force that keeps the rail in the engaged position; lubrication ensures consistent movement and reduces wear.

8) Reassemble rails and check geometry (ordered)
- Reinstall selector rails/forks exactly as marked. Replace any worn circlips, O‑rings or bushings. Tighten fasteners to factory torque (consult the workshop manual for NSG370 specs). Check rail end‑play and lateral movement against spec. If end‑play is out of spec, fit/remedy shims or replace worn components.
- Theory: correct torques and end‑play ensure that the strut can locate the rail accurately; torqued or bent mounts produce misalignment that can defeat a new strut.

9) Refill, bench check and function test (ordered)
- Refill with specified gear oil to the correct level. With transmission mounted/connected, cycle the shifter through all gears with engine off to verify detents and positive engagement. Start engine and perform a controlled road test: accelerate in each gear and check for popouts, false neutrals or noise.
- Theory: live loading during a road test verifies the strut holds the gear under torque; bench checks confirm mechanical function without load.

10) Follow‑ups and when replacement alone won’t fix it (ordered)
- If symptoms persist after a correct strut replacement, inspect gear dog faces, selector fork wear, rail bores and shifter linkage for excessive wear or bent parts. A recurring failure often means another worn component or misalignment is allowing excessive rail movement that overloads the strut.
- Theory: the strut is a positional/detent device, not a primary structural locator—if primary parts that define gear engagement geometry are worn, the strut will fail prematurely or not correct the underlying fault.

Key practical notes (brief)
- Use only OEM or quality replacement strut kits.
- Always reinstall hardware to factory torque and replace circlips/retainers rather than reusing stretched parts.
- Keep contamination out of the selector bore; dirt will accelerate wear.
- Consult the NSG370 workshop manual for exact removal order, torque values and any model‑specific steps.

That is the sequence and the mechanical theory for how replacing the strut fixes gear pop‑out/false neutral faults.
rteeqp73

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