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Jeep NSG370 6 speed manual gearbox repair manual download digital

Summary first: the “harmonic balancer” or torsional damper on an NSG370 is a tuned elastomer/metal assembly on the transmission input that absorbs torsional shock and reduces torsional vibration transmitted between the clutch and the transmission. When it fails you get gear rattle, clutch judder, accelerated wear of synchronizers/input gear and often a loose-feeling engagement. Replacing the damper restores damping, reduces vibration amplitudes and corrects preload/clearance so gear mesh and synchronizers work as designed.

Ordered procedure with theory tied to each action

1) Safety and preparation
- Theory: working on the transmission requires the vehicle secure and the driveline unloaded so components separate cleanly and parts don’t shift under load.
- Actions: disconnect battery, lift vehicle on hoist or use jack stands, block wheels. Wear eye protection and gloves.

2) Remove driveline loads and supports
- Theory: the transmission must be free from engine and driveline connections to remove without damaging mounts or misaligning.
- Actions in order: drain trans fluid into a clean container; disconnect shift linkage, speedometer/sensor plugs, reverse light switch and any connectors; remove starter (gives access to bellhousing bolts); disconnect driveshaft(s)/CV axles from the transmission (axles may need hub separation or sliding out of splines depending on model); support engine with a jack or engine support if the gearbox provides engine support points.

3) Unbolt and lower the transmission
- Theory: separating the transmission from the engine exposes the input shaft and internal front cover where the damper lives. Proper support prevents dropping the unit.
- Actions: remove bellhousing bolts in a pattern; support the transmission with a transmission jack; remove transmission mount(s) and any crossmembers; slide the gearbox straight back and lower to the bench. Keep clutch/pressure plate alignment in mind.

4) Bench disassembly to access the damper
- Theory: the damper is on or around the input shaft/front bearing area; access requires removing the front cover, seals and sometimes the input gear assembly.
- Actions in order: secure gearbox on bench; remove front cover/inspection plate (observe gasket/seal condition); remove any retaining snap rings, circlips or bolts holding the front bearing retainer and input shaft assembly; withdraw input shaft assembly (this may require pulling the cluster gear or countershaft components depending on layout). Keep parts organized and mark orientation.

5) Remove the harmonic damper/torsional assembly
- Theory: the damper is often a press-fit, splined or bolted element that provides visco-elastic damping between two masses. Wear shows as elastomer separation, corrosion pits or play.
- Actions: identify the damper: circlip/retaining plate, central nut or press fit. Remove retaining hardware. Use a press or gear puller to remove the damper from the input shaft, taking care not to damage splines or shaft journals. Inspect mating faces, splines and the input shaft shoulder for wear or fretting.

6) Inspect related components (why this matters)
- Theory: failed damper transfers loads elsewhere; check for consequential damage.
- Inspect: input shaft splines and bearing journals for wear, scoring or pitting; front bearing for play/noise; seals and gasket faces; clutch hub and synchronizers for abnormal wear. Replace bearings/seals if any damage or excessive play is found.

7) Prepare and install the new damper
- Theory: the damper must be installed with correct orientation, axial preload and retention so it engages and damps as designed.
- Actions: clean shafts and splines; if specified, apply light assembly lube to splines only where the manual indicates; press the new damper onto the input shaft to the specified seating depth using a press and appropriate adapters that push on the damper body, not the elastomer; install any new retaining rings/nuts and torque to factory specification; verify axial endplay is within spec with a dial indicator.

8) Reassemble gearbox front end
- Theory: correct reassembly restores sealing, bearing preload and gear alignment lost during disassembly.
- Actions: reinstall input shaft assembly, front bearing retainer, seals and cover using new gaskets/seals as required; replace any O-rings or paper gaskets; torque fasteners to spec. Rotate input and main shafts to ensure free movement and no binding.

9) Reinstall transmission into vehicle
- Theory: proper mating and torque of bellhousing and mount bolts keeps alignment between engine and transmission so the damper functions correctly and no undue loads are introduced.
- Actions: raise and align transmission to engine, slide onto input spline (use alignment dowel and a clutch alignment tool if clutch removed); install bellhousing bolts and torque in sequence; reconnect mounts, crossmember, axles/driveshafts, starter, linkage and electrical connectors. Refill with correct fluid to the correct level. Reconnect battery.

10) Test and verify
- Theory: a running test loads the driveline and reveals residual vibration, noises or leaks that indicate incorrect installation or remaining damage.
- Actions: start engine; check for leaks and abnormal noises at idle and during shifts; road-test through all gears under light and moderate throttle, checking for gear rattle, judder or play. Re-check fluid level and torque after first run (per service interval).

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- A healthy damper converts torsional impulses into heat and spreads impulse energy over time so peak torque transmitted to gearbox components is reduced. When the damper’s elastomer or retention fails, the torsional energy transmits directly into the input gear/synchronizers causing rattle, clutch judder and accelerated wear. Replacing the damper restores the designed damping characteristic and axial/preload clearances, thereby lowering vibration amplitude, preventing shock loads, and stopping the secondary damage (worn splines, bearings, synchronizer wear). If bearings or shafts were damaged while the old damper failed, replacement of those damaged parts is required to fully eliminate symptoms—just swapping the damper without addressing collateral damage may not fix all noise or wear.

Quick cautions
- Use factory service manual for exact disassembly order, torque values and axial clearance specs.
- Press and pull only on metal surfaces meant to be pressed; avoid pressing on the elastomer.
- Replace seals, circlips and any fasteners that the manual calls single-use.
- If you find scored shafts or bearings with excessive play, replace them — reusing damaged parts will let the problem recur.

That is the ordered theory-and-practice explanation of replacing the NSG370 harmonic damper and why it corrects the symptoms.
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