Tools & consumables
- Metric socket & ratchet set (8–21 mm), deep sockets, extensions, universal joint
- 3/8" & 1/2" breaker bar, torque wrench (in-lb/ft-lb)
- Transmission jack (preferred) or floor jack + wood block
- Engine support bar or engine hoist / jack with block under oil pan
- Pry bars, large flat-blade screwdriver
- Clutch alignment tool (correct diameter for disc hub)
- Flywheel holder (or impact gun / pry method) to prevent crank turning
- Snap-ring pliers, pliers, pick
- Hammer, punch, dead-blow
- Brake cleaner, lint-free rags, parts tray
- Threadlocker (medium strength) for flywheel/pressure-plate bolts (if OEM calls for it)
- Anti-seize for input shaft splines (very small amount)
- New cotter pins / hardware as needed
- Drain pan, funnel
- New transmission fluid, brake fluid (if bleeding)
- Safety: jack stands, wheel chocks, gloves, eye protection

Replacement parts (recommended every clutch job)
- Clutch disc (correct spline count & diameter)
- Pressure plate (matching disc)
- Throwout (release) bearing (hydraulic: slave cylinder or concentric slave often replaced if worn)
- Pilot bearing/bushing (if the 5S-FE crank uses one — check model; replace if applicable)
- Flywheel resurfacing or replacement (resurface or machine; replace if cracked/warped)
- Flywheel bolts & pressure-plate bolts (replace if specified; torque-to-yield bolts must be new)
- Clutch alignment tool
- New transmission fluid; new axle seals if disturbed
- Optional: clutch fork, slave/master cylinder (if leaking or worn), front main seal if leaking

Safety precautions (must follow)
- Work on level ground, wheels chocked, parking brake on.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Use quality jack stands; never rely on a jack to hold the car.
- Support the engine before removing the transmission (engine can drop).
- Mark orientation of parts before disassembly to ease reassembly.
- Keep dirt & grease off clutch friction surfaces — do not touch friction face.
- Torque bolts to factory specs; over- or under-torquing can cause failure.
- Clean parts with brake cleaner and let evaporate fully before assembly.

Step-by-step procedure (typical FWD Toyota 5S-FE; check FSM for model-specific differences and torque specs)

1) Preparation
- Park, chock rear wheels, lift front of car with a jack and support with stands under designated lift points.
- Remove negative battery cable.
- Remove engine undercover/splash shield for access.
- Remove air intake assembly that interferes (airbox, intake pipe) and battery tray if needed.
- Drain manual transmission fluid.

2) Remove ancillary items and disconnect systems
- Remove intake manifold piping and any brackets bolted to the transmission bellhousing or starter.
- Remove exhaust downpipe(s) or loosen as needed for access if they obstruct transmission removal.
- Disconnect the speedometer cable/sensor electrical connector(s), reverse light switch, neutral safety/clutch switch.
- Disconnect shifter linkage: remove clip/pin and slide linkage off.
- Remove starter motor (unbolt and drop it free).
- Disconnect clutch hydraulics: either disconnect slave cylinder line or unbolt slave and tie it out of the way; do NOT depress or spill fluid onto painted surfaces. If using a concentric slave, support as required per model.

3) Remove axles (FWD transaxle)
- Remove front wheels.
- Remove lower ball joint pinch nut / separate lower ball joint or control arm to allow CV axle to drop out of hub (use manufacturer method).
- Remove axle nut(s) (impact gun or breaker bar with appropriate socket; secure hub so it doesn't rotate).
- Pry CV axles out of transaxle carefully (support axle to avoid tearing CV boot). On some models you can leave halfshaft in hub and pivot it out of trans, but most require removing from trans.
- Secure axles aside.

4) Support engine and remove engine/trans mounts
- Place engine support bar across engine bay or use hoist to take engine weight slightly.
- Place transmission jack under the transmission to support it.
- Remove transmission-to-engine bolts (bellhousing bolts) in a crisscross pattern; label or note bolt lengths/locations.
- Remove transmission mount(s) and crossmember if applicable.
- Remove any wiring harnesses and lines attached to bellhousing.

5) Separate transmission from engine
- Carefully pry between bellhousing and engine block using pry bars at specified pry points. Support transmission with jack; ease it back until input shaft clears the clutch.
- Once separated enough, lower transmission slowly on transmission jack and pull out so input shaft clears pilot bushing. Tilt as necessary to clear the steering rack and other obstructions.
- Remove transmission completely and set on a safe stand.

6) Remove clutch assembly
- With transmission off, you’ll see pressure plate bolted to flywheel. Mark pressure plate orientation if desired.
- Use flywheel holder or have an assistant hold the crank with a starter wrench if needed. Remove pressure plate bolts evenly in a star pattern to avoid warping.
- Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Note orientation: friction side of disc faces pressure plate (usually toward flywheel); clutch disc usually has a side marked “flywheel side” or “toward flywheel.” If not marked, the hub side goes toward transmission.

7) Inspect flywheel & crankshaft
- Inspect flywheel face for heat spots, cracking, scoring, and runout. If minor glazing/light scoring, have it resurfaced. If severely scored/cracked/heat-treated/discolored, replace.
- Inspect pilot bushing/bearing in crank — remove & replace if rough or worn.
- Inspect clutch fork, pivot, and input shaft splines for wear/damage; replace pivot if worn.

8) Clean and prepare parts for reassembly
- Clean flywheel surface with brake cleaner; do not get oil on it. If you resurfaced or replaced flywheel, ensure it's cleaned.
- Lightly grease release bearing contact face on the fork and lightly grease input shaft splines (very small amount of high-temp grease; keep off friction surfaces).
- Inspect transmission input shaft for worn splines or scoring.

9) Install clutch (use alignment tool)
- Position clutch disc on flywheel with alignment tool inserted through disc and into pilot bearing to center the disc. Ensure disc orientation is correct (usually the side labeled toward flywheel faces the flywheel).
- Position pressure plate over disc. Hand-start pressure plate bolts evenly.
- Gradually torque bolts in a crisscross pattern to specified torque (check FSM). Common range: 20–30 ft-lb for small bolts or 35–45 ft-lb for larger — verify exact values. If bolts are torque-to-yield, use new bolts and follow torque/stage procedure.
- Remove alignment tool once bolts are torqued.

10) Reinstall transmission
- Verify clutch release mechanism is correctly installed and release bearing is seated on the actuator.
- Using the transmission jack, align input shaft with clutch disc splines. Use alignment tool or carefully slide transmission straight onto engine; do not force.
- When input shaft fully engages pilot bushing, bring transmission bellhousing to engine and reinstall bellhousing bolts. Tighten in crisscross pattern to spec.
- Reinstall transmission mount(s) and crossmember; torque to spec.

11) Reinstall axles, mounts, and reconnect systems
- Reinstall CV axles into trans & hub. Use new axle nut and torque to spec.
- Reconnect lower control arm/ball joint and torque to spec.
- Reinstall starter motor, shifter linkage, speed sensor, wiring harnesses.
- Reconnect clutch hydraulic line; bleed clutch system thoroughly until pedal is firm. Replace master/slave if leaking.
- Refill transmission with correct fluid type/quantity.

12) Final steps and checks
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Lower vehicle from jack stands.
- With engine off, test clutch pedal engagement and free play; adjust if applicable (many are hydraulic and self-adjust).
- Start engine and test for clutch engagement with vehicle on stands/parked: ensure no slipping or abnormal noise. Do not engage full load until road test.
- Road test: perform light clutch engagements first, then progressively, avoid hard launches for first 300–500 miles (break-in period).

How specific tools are used (quick notes)
- Transmission jack: cradle trans, raise/lower smoothly and keep it level while aligning input shaft into clutch disc. Use wood block between jack and trans pan to distribute load.
- Engine support bar/hoist: take weight off mounts so trans bolts can be removed and engine won’t drop.
- Clutch alignment tool: centers clutch disc on pilot bushing so input shaft will slide in easily. Insert through disc into pilot, hold while torquing pressure-plate bolts; remove before installing transmission.
- Flywheel holder / breaker bar: lock crank to remove/install pressure plate or flywheel bolts. If using impact gun for flywheel bolts, ensure bolt replacement if required by OEM.
- Pry bar: separate bellhousing from engine once bolts removed—apply gradual, even pressure at pry points.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the engine: can drop and damage mounts/hoses — always support engine before unbolting trans.
- Contaminating clutch faces with oil/grease: keep grease away from disc/pressure plate/flywheel surfaces; use lint-free rags and brake cleaner.
- Reusing worn release bearing or pilot bushing: leads to noise or premature failure — replace during clutch job.
- Misalignment of clutch disc: causes hard transmission install or bearing wear — use alignment tool.
- Not resurfacing a warped flywheel: leads to chatter or quick wear — resurface or replace per inspection.
- Incorrect bolt torque or sequence: can warp pressure plate — torque in star pattern to spec.
- Forgetting to bleed hydraulic system: results in soft pedal and poor disengagement.
- Damaging crank or input shaft seals during removal/installation: protect seals and use proper alignment when sliding the transmission in.
- Reusing torque-to-yield bolts: many OEM bolts are single-use — replace as specified.

Torque & reference note
- Torque values vary by year/model and bolt size. Always verify all bolt torques (pressure plate, flywheel, bellhousing, axle nut) against the Toyota factory service manual for the specific vehicle/configuration.

Break-in / bedding procedure
- Avoid hard launches for first 300–500 miles.
- Moderate clutch engagements under varying loads to allow friction material to mate to flywheel surface.

That’s the concise, step-by-step procedure. Follow the factory service manual for your specific 5S-FE model for exact bolt torques, sequences, and model-specific removal details.
rteeqp73

You Wouldn't Believe What Happened To This Reliable Toyota Engine And What Destroyed It! Today we look at this reliable Toyota Engine the 5S-FE which is a 2.2L 4 cylinder engine which was super popular in older Toyota ...

PIMPED OUT! 1992 Toyota Celica GT 5SFE 2.2 ENGINE- 2-12" SUBWOOFERS! LIGHT KIT! 7 TUBE 7 COLOR LED GLOW INTERIOR LIGHTING KIT SOUND ACTIVATED! 2 12 INCH SUBWOOFERS! VERY LOUD!

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