Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" ratchets, metric sockets (8–19 mm), swivel/extension, combination wrenches.
- Torx/Allen set, screwdriver set, pliers (needle-nose, hose pliers).
- Torque wrench (0–150 Nm range).
- Fuel-line quick-disconnect tool (if equipped).
- Small pry bar / plastic trim tool.
- Pick set / O‑ring tool.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, etc.), rags, brake cleaner or intake cleaner.
- Coolant drain pan; funnel; fresh coolant.
- New intake manifold gasket(s), throttle-body gasket, any EGR/PCV gaskets, new O‑rings for injectors or fuel rail if required.
- Replacement bolts if original are corroded or torque-to-yield (check manual).
- Masking tape/marker to label hoses/wiring, zip-ties.
- Safety: eye protection, gloves, jackstands if raising vehicle, battery terminal puller optional.

Safety & preparatory precautions
- Work with a cool engine. Let engine reach ambient temperature; hot coolant and metal cause burns.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting to prevent short circuits or cranking.
- Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting fuel lines (remove fuel pump relay/fuse and crank until it stalls OR use manufacturer procedure).
- Drain coolant to a level below intake manifold coolant passages if manifold has coolant lines. Capture coolant in pan and dispose/recycle properly.
- Work in a well-ventilated area, avoid open flame near fuel.
- Support vehicle on jackstands if you need to go underneath; never rely on a jack only.

General notes before starting
- This is a general workshop-style procedure applicable to Toyota Hilux engines (petrol and diesel). Specifics (bolt counts, torques, pipe routing) change by engine and year — always verify torque specs, bolt lengths, and vacuum routing with the factory workshop manual for your exact engine code.
- Replace all intake gaskets and any brittle vacuum hoses. Diesel/turbo Hilux intake systems often have extra piping (intercooler, turbo inlet/outlet) and EGR plumbing — remove and tag parts carefully.

Step-by-step: removal
1) Prepare vehicle
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Relieve fuel system pressure per factory procedure.
- Drain coolant to below intake manifold passages (if manifold carries coolant). Remove engine cover and airbox assembly for access.

2) Remove intake airflow components
- Disconnect and remove air intake ducting, airbox, MAF sensor (unplug and set aside carefully), resonator pipes and any intake silencers.
- Label vacuum hoses and breather hoses with tape/marker.

3) Remove throttle body / intake sensors
- Unplug electrical connectors (TPS, IAC/idle actuator if present), vacuum hoses, and coolant hoses to the throttle body.
- Unbolt throttle body from manifold and move aside (leave attached to harness where possible). Replace throttle-body gasket on reassembly.

4) Disconnect fuel system components
- Relieve fuel pressure (repeat check if necessary).
- Unplug fuel injector connectors. Remove fuel rail mounting bolts and lift fuel rail with injectors as an assembly; support it so injectors/O‑rings aren’t stressed. If necessary, remove injectors and inspect/replace O‑rings.
- Cap fuel rail lines or keep rail upright to prevent fuel spillage.

5) Disconnect vacuum, PCV, EGR, turbo/intercooler plumbing
- Label and remove all vacuum lines, PCV hose, MAP sensor, and EGR piping attached to the intake. On turbo/diesel models remove charge air pipes and intercooler pipes connected to manifold.
- If EGR cooler or piping bolts through manifold, unbolt and remove with manifold or separately as required. Be prepared for some coolant or soot/drainage from EGR lines.

6) Remove electrical connectors and brackets
- Unplug all sensors mounted on manifold (MAP, intake air temp, boost/vacuum sensor). Remove bracketry (alternator/AC brackets) only if blocking access — document bolt locations.

7) Unbolt intake manifold
- Spray penetrating oil on manifold bolts if corroded. Loosen bolts in the reverse of the tightening sequence (generally from outside toward center or follow manual sequence) to avoid warping. Remove all bolts/studs.
- Carefully lift manifold straight up, clearing wiring hoses and fuel rail. It may stick; gently pry at mating surface with plastic tool — avoid metal-on-metal gouging.

8) Inspection & cleaning
- Inspect mating surfaces on head and manifold. Remove old gasket material with plastic scraper and brake cleaner; avoid debris entering intake ports. If working on DI engines, keep ports covered.
- Inspect manifold for cracks, warpage, heavy carbon/EGR soot. Diesel intakes often require aggressive carbon cleaning — use appropriate cleaners and avoid pushing liquids into ports.
- Check injector boots/O‑rings and replace if hardened/leaking. Inspect bolts/studs for stretch or corrosion — replace if damaged.

Replacement parts typically required
- Intake manifold gasket set (mandatory).
- Throttle-body gasket.
- EGR gasket(s), PCV gaskets, injector O‑rings (highly recommended).
- Any vacuum hoses that are brittle or collapsed.
- Bolts/studs only if corroded or specified as torque-to-yield.

Step-by-step: installation
1) Prepare mating surfaces
- Clean head and manifold faces. Blow out intake ports with compressed air (cover ports on DI engines) and wipe dry. Ensure all old gasket material removed.
- Place new gasket(s) in position; some gaskets have alignment dowels — ensure proper orientation.

2) Lower manifold and hand-thread bolts
- Position manifold gently onto dowels; hand-thread bolts/studs to locate. Replace any brackets or EGR parts that bolt to the manifold at this stage if required.

3) Torque in correct sequence
- Tighten bolts finger-tight, then torque in specified sequence to the factory values in incremental steps (example: 10 Nm, then 25 Nm, then final torque — use factory spec). If you don’t have exact numbers, tighten progressively and evenly but obtain proper specs before final torque.
- Do not overtighten or use impact tools.

4) Reconnect fuel rail, injectors, sensors
- Reinstall fuel rail and torque mounting bolts to spec. Reconnect injector connectors. Replace injector O‑rings if you removed injectors.
- Reconnect MAP, IAT, TPS, idle actuator, and all sensors. Reattach vacuum and PCV hoses (ensure correct routing).

5) Reinstall throttle body and intake ducting
- Install new throttle-body gasket and torque bolts to spec. Reconnect coolant hoses if applicable, plug in electrical connectors, reattach air intake and MAF sensor.

6) Reconnect EGR/intercooler/turbo plumbing
- Reattach EGR pipes with new gaskets, torque bolts. Reconnect intercooler piping and turbo inlet/outlet clamps, tighten hose clamps securely.

7) Refill coolant and prime fuel
- Refill cooling system to correct level and bleed air according to factory procedure (open bleeder screws if present, run engine with radiator cap off until thermostat opens, top up).
- Reconnect battery negative. Prime fuel system by turning key to ON a few times (or use fuel pump relay) to pressurize rail; check for leaks.

8) Start-up checks
- Start engine and monitor for abnormal noises, vacuum/fuel/coolant leaks, check idle and throttle response. Use OBD scanner to check for codes and clear if necessary.
- Recheck torque on accessible bolts after initial warm-up (some manuals call for retorque after heat cycles — check manual).

Tool usage details & tips
- Torque wrench: use it for final tightening of manifold, throttle body, fuel rail, and sensor bolts. Set to correct Nm and follow torque sequence.
- Fuel-line disconnect tool: insert into quick-connect fitting to release fuel line collars cleanly—follow fitting orientation; do not pry with screwdrivers.
- Pick/O‑ring tools: remove old injector O‑rings without nicking injector body. Lightly lubricate new O‑rings with clean engine oil before installation.
- Penetrating oil: apply, let soak 10–20 minutes for corroded bolts. Heat can help but avoid open flame; use heat gun if necessary.
- Vacuum hose labeling: mark every hose with tape and number to avoid routing mistakes causing driveability issues.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Forgetting to relieve fuel pressure — causes spray and fire hazard. Always relieve pressure first.
- Breaking plastic vacuum connectors or sensor tabs — use moderate force and plastic trim tools when necessary.
- Losing or mixing manifold bolts of different lengths — keep bolt order labeled; different lengths must go back in original locations.
- Reusing old gaskets — always use new gaskets to prevent vacuum/coolant leaks.
- Cross-threading bolts or overtightening — hand-thread first and use correct torque sequence/specs.
- Allowing debris into intake ports — cover ports with clean rag or tape while working.
- Not bleeding coolant/air from system — can cause overheating. Follow bleed procedure for your engine.
- Not checking EGR/PCV lines — disconnected or misrouted hoses produce rough idle or check-engine lights.
- Not replacing injector O‑rings on removal — they’re a common source of vacuum and fuel leaks.

Final verification
- After reassembly and warm-up: inspect for coolant, fuel, and vacuum leaks; check turbo hoses if fitted; clear/scan codes and test-drive to confirm proper operation.
- If you see persistent rough idle, vacuum leak codes, or low coolant levels, re-check hoses, gaskets, and manifolds for leaks and correct torque.

Done. Follow the factory workshop manual for your specific Hilux engine code for bolt sequences and torque specs; use OEM gaskets and quality replacement parts for reliable results.
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How to engage 4WD in a Toyota hilux

Hilux exhaust 4in

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Inspect these already additional pressure take down the front and top left clearance associated on a boxed of longitudinal center bearings. When the engine is accompanied by cold heads.

Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket/ratchet set, extensions, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Torque wrench (0–100 Nm range).
- Feeler gauge set (metric, 0.05 mm increments ideally).
- Micrometer or digital caliper (for measuring shim thickness if applicable).
- Valve shim kit (assorted sizes) or replacement shims if engine uses shims.
- Small magnet and/or scoop for removing/handling shims.
- Soft drift / plastic hammer (for tapping rocker arms/buckets if needed).
- Clean rags, brake cleaner or solvent, gasket sealant as specified, replacement valve cover gasket(s).
- Camshaft locking tool if required by your engine (factory or equivalent).
- Service manual or OEM valve clearance specs & torque values.
- Gloves, eye protection.

Safety precautions
- Work with engine cold (clearance measured cold unless manual states otherwise).
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake; if vehicle raised, use quality jackstands — never rely on a jack.
- Keep workspace clean to avoid dropping shims into oil passages.
- Do not spin the engine with valve cover off unless instructed and lubricated per manual.
- Mark and keep parts in order; take photos for reassembly.

Which system you’ll see on a Hilux
- Some Hilux engines use adjustable rocker arms (adjust nut + locknut or screw type) — adjustment is done with feeler gauges.
- Many modern Toyota Hilux engines (DOHC petrol and diesel common-rail diesels like some 1KD/2KD/1KZ variants) use shim-under-bucket tappets. Those require removing camshafts or at least cam caps to access shims and replacing shims to obtain correct clearance.
- Always confirm which system your model and engine uses before starting.

General workflow (overview)
1) Remove components to access valve cover(s).
2) Remove valve cover, clean sealing surfaces.
3) Rotate engine by crankshaft to place the cylinder(s) at the correct position for measurement (Top Dead Center, compression stroke) following firing order/procedure.
4) Measure valve clearances with feeler gauge.
5a) If adjustable rockers: adjust to spec with feeler gauge then tighten locknuts to torque.
5b) If shim-under-bucket: remove cam caps or camshaft as required, remove bucket, measure shim thickness and valve clearance, calculate required new shim size, replace shim, reinstall cam/caps with correct torque and sequence.
6) Re-check clearances after reassembly and rotating engine two revolutions.
7) Re-fit valve cover with new gasket and torque to spec; reassemble other removed parts; start engine and inspect.

Step-by-step: adjustable rocker-arm type (simpler)
- Tools: feeler gauges, open-end wrench for adjuster/locknut, torque wrench for locknut if specified.
1. Remove air intake parts, spark plug cover, any brackets obstructing valve cover to access valve cover.
2. Remove valve cover bolts and valve cover. Clean gasket surface, remove old gasket.
3. Rotate engine by socket on crank pulley to bring cylinder #1 to TDC compression. Confirm timing marks per manual.
4. With TDC/compression for cylinder you are checking, the intake and exhaust cam lobes for that cylinder will be pointing away from valves (rockers free).
5. Insert correct feeler gauge between rocker and valve tip (or tappet) for the valve being checked. Feel a slight drag, not too tight or loose.
6. If clearance out of spec, loosen locknut and turn adjuster screw until proper feeler drag is achieved. Hold adjuster and tighten locknut while rechecking clearance. Use torque wrench if manual specifies torque for locknut.
7. Repeat for all valves following firing order and TDC positions as required (many engines let you set two cylinders per cam rotation).
8. After all valves adjusted, rotate engine two full revolutions and recheck selected valves to ensure settings remained.
9. Replace valve cover gasket and reassemble. Torque valve cover bolts to spec.

Step-by-step: shim-under-bucket type (common on modern Toyota DOHC/EFI diesels/petrol)
- Tools: feeler gauge, micrometer or caliper, shim selector kit, magnet or thin pliers, torque wrench, camshaft/cap installation tools, marking pen.
1. Remove air intake, cam cover(s), ignition coils (petrol) or glow plugs/plug leads (diesel) and any components obstructing cam cover removal.
2. Remove valve (cam) cover(s) carefully; note and label any breather hoses or PCV parts. Replace valve cover gasket.
3. Rotate engine to TDC for cylinder 1 on compression stroke (manual for correct cam position) and align cam timing marks. Use marks and service manual procedure to ensure cams in correct position before removing cam caps or loosening cam bolts.
4. If required, use camshaft locking tool or hold camshafts as instructed to prevent rotation.
5. Loosen and remove camshaft bearing cap bolts in correct order and sequence per manual. Keep caps in order and orientation — mark them exactly as they were.
6. Carefully lift camshafts out (or lift only caps if design allows) and set aside on clean padding. Keep cam lobes clean and protected.
7. Each valve bucket sits over a shim. Using a magnet or careful pickup, remove the shim and measure its thickness with micrometer. Also measure current valve clearance (some procedures measure clearance with feeler gauge against valve bucket with cam in specified position). Note the measured clearance and recorded old shim thickness.
8. Calculate required shim: new_shim = old_shim + (measured_clearance - specified_clearance). Example: old shim = 2.10 mm, measured clearance = 0.30 mm, spec = 0.20 mm → new_shim = 2.10 + (0.30 - 0.20) = 2.20 mm.
9. Select closest available shim thickness (manufacturer supplies .01/.05 mm steps). Install new shim into bucket, ensure clean seating and no burrs. If required, lightly oil shim surface as manual directs.
10. Reinstall camshafts and caps in exact order/orientation; torque caps to factory torque in specified sequence in stages (hand-tighten → intermediate → final torque).
11. Rotate engine by crank two revolutions and re-check valve clearances with feeler gauge to confirm they are within spec.
12. Repeat for all valves (you'll typically measure and change multiple shims; keep tidy records).
13. Replace valve cover gasket and reassemble.

How to use key tools
- Feeler gauge: slide appropriate blade between valve/tappet and rocker/bucket. You should feel a slight drag when properly adjusted. Do not force a blade that’s too large.
- Micrometer/digital caliper: measure shim thickness at several points if shim may be worn; use micrometer for best accuracy.
- Torque wrench: use for cam cap bolts, valve cover bolts, and rocker locknuts if specified. Follow torque sequence and incremental steps (e.g., tighten progressively).
- Magnet/shim tool: use to remove/insert small shims without dropping into head. If shim falls into oil passages, disassemble further to retrieve — don’t leave in engine.

Replacement parts & consumables
- Valve cover gasket(s) — recommended replacement whenever cover removed.
- Shims (assorted sizes) if shims need replacement to reach spec.
- Rocker arm adjuster nuts or locknuts if damaged.
- Camshaft seals or O-rings if disturbed and leaking.
- If excessive wear found: new valve buckets, rockers, camshaft(s), or valve stems may be required.
- Clean engine oil if contamination occurs; replace oil if shims fall into passages or you worked in dirty environment.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Wrong engine position: measuring on exhaust stroke or wrong TDC will give incorrect readings. Always use manual firing order and cam mark positions.
- Mixing up cam caps or orientation: mark them and reinstall exactly as removed. Caps are machined to locations.
- Dropping shims: can fall into oil galleries — work over a clean tray and use a magnet. If a shim is lost, do not run engine; retrieve it.
- Using incorrect shim calculation: use formula new_shim = old_shim + (measured_clearance - spec). Double-check arithmetic.
- Over-tightening valve cover bolts or cam caps: use torque wrench and proper sequence to avoid distorting cam journals or warping cover.
- Not rechecking after two revolutions: locking nuts can shift; always recheck.
- Not replacing valve cover gasket: causes oil leaks.
- Measuring when engine warm if manual specifies cold. Most Toyota specs are cold; confirm.

Final checks & test
- Reassemble everything, torque to spec.
- Reconnect battery, start engine and listen for unusual valvetrain noise. A small tick can be normal until oil circulates.
- Check for oil leaks around valve cover.
- After a short run, recheck valve cover bolts and oil level. If adjustable system, recheck clearances after warm-up only if manual instructs.

Note: Valve-clearance specs and torque values are engine-specific. Before starting, obtain the exact valve lash specs and torque sequences for your Hilux engine variant from the factory workshop manual and follow the model-specific procedures (cam locking tools, TDC alignment, and whether clearances are measured cold).
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