Tools & materials (minimum)
- Correct brake fluid (use Toyota-specified DOT rating — commonly DOT3 or DOT4; do NOT use DOT5 silicone).
- Clear hose and catch bottle, spanner for bleeder nipples, gloves, eye protection, rags, jack/stands or ramps, wheel chocks.
- Assistant to pump the pedal OR a hand vacuum/pressure bleeder. For ABS-equipped trucks a scan tool that can activate the ABS pump/valves is strongly recommended.

Theory summary (why a flush is needed)
- Brake systems are closed hydraulic circuits filled with hygroscopic glycol-based fluid (DOT3/4/5.1). Fluid absorbs water over time. Water lowers boiling point and promotes internal corrosion and seal damage.
- Any air in the lines is compressible and produces a soft/spongy pedal and reduced braking force. Contaminated fluid causes vapor lock under heat and accelerates component failure.
- A proper flush replaces old, water-laden and contaminated fluid with fresh fluid and removes trapped air from lines, restoring hydraulic incompressibility and corrosion protection.

Ordered procedure with theory at each step (concise)

1) Safety & prep
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, set parking brake, lift and support vehicle securely if needed.
Theory: Safe, level setup prevents accidents and ensures consistent bleeding sequence and pedal feel.

2) Confirm fluid type & reservoir condition
- Clean cap area, remove cap, inspect fluid color/level. Use only the specified DOT fluid.
Theory: Prevent cross-contamination. Old dark fluid indicates oxidation/water content — it must be replaced.

3) Protect painted surfaces and open reservoir
- Cover nearby paint with rags; open reservoir and, if using a pressure bleeder, connect per bleeder instructions. Keep reservoir cap off or vented but covered to avoid contamination.
Theory: Glycol fluids damage paint; venting prevents vacuum traps that would pull air back into the system.

4) Determine bleeding sequence
- Standard rule: start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, then progress toward the nearest. Typical sequence: rear farthest (usually rear passenger), rear near, front passenger, front driver — but use “farthest-to-nearest” relative to the master cylinder location on your Hilux.
Theory: Fluid and air travel downstream from the master cylinder; starting farthest moves old fluid and air progressively toward the reservoir.

5) Keep reservoir topped during the job
- Frequently top up with fresh fluid. Never let the level drop below the minimum while any bleeder is open.
Theory: Prevents drawing in air from the reservoir; keeps the system full so only old fluid and air are expelled from the bleeders.

6) Bleed method options (each has the same hydraulic goal)
- Two-person pump-and-hold: Assistant pumps several times until firm, holds pedal depressed; you open bleeder until flow is clear, close bleeder, assistant releases pedal. Repeat until clear.
- Vacuum/one-man pump: Attach vacuum bleeder to bleeder nipple, pump fluid through until clear.
- Pressure bleeder: Pressurize the reservoir with clean fluid and open bleeders in sequence; the pressure forces old fluid out.
Theory: All methods force old, contaminated fluid and entrained air out of the line and replace it with new fluid while preventing air re-entry.

7) Bleed each wheel to clarity in sequence
- At each wheel: attach hose, crack bleeder, operate method until fluid runs clear with no bubbles, then close bleeder before the pedal is released (or stop vacuum/pressure flow).
Theory: Ensures removal of air pockets and old fluid from each caliper/cylinder; closing before pedal release prevents sucking air back.

8) Special: ABS/modulator de-aeration
- If the truck has ABS, after bleeding wheels you must purge the ABS modulator. Use a scan tool to cycle the ABS pump/valves while repeating the bleed at the wheels as directed by Toyota service procedure. If no scan tool, perform repeated hard brake applications from low speed (service-manual methods vary) — scan tool is preferred.
Theory: ABS valve bodies have chambers that trap fluid/air. Cycling valves with the pump moves fluid through these chambers so trapped air can be flushed out. Without this step air in the ABS unit can cause a spongy pedal even after wheel bleeding.

9) Final reservoir/top-up
- Set reservoir to the proper level, securely re-fit the cap, wipe any spillage, clean tools.
Theory: Correct fluid level ensures immediate pressure reserve and prevents future cavitation.

10) Pedal check and road test
- With vehicle on a level surface, pump pedal to check firmness. If firm, perform a controlled slow test drive with progressive braking to confirm braking response and that ABS functions normally.
Theory: Confirms system is free of air and performs under load. Any residual sponginess indicates incomplete bleeding or ABS air that needs further purging.

11) Disposal & clean-up
- Dispose of old fluid per local hazardous-waste rules. Clean spills immediately; brake fluid damages paint and rubber.
Theory: Environmental and safety compliance; prevents future corrosion or damage.

How the flush fixes common faults
- Spongy pedal: flushing removes air bubbles and replaces compressible fluid pockets with incompressible fresh fluid, restoring pedal firmness and hydraulic efficiency.
- Reduced braking under heavy use / fade: fresh fluid has a higher boiling point and lower water content, preventing vapor lock at high temperatures and maintaining braking performance.
- Corrosion, stuck calipers, leaking seals: fresh fluid with proper inhibitors reduces further corrosion. Removing contaminated fluid prevents accelerated seal and component degradation; if seals are already damaged, separate replacement is required.
- Intermittent ABS activation or malfunction after heat: removing water and replacing fluid prevents vapor and corrosion inside the ABS modulator and pump that can cause valve sticking or erratic operation; full ABS purge (valve cycling) clears trapped air from the modulator that standard wheel bleeding can’t reach.

Important cautions (brief)
- Never mix glycol-based DOT3/4/5.1 with silicone DOT5. DOT5 will ruin a system designed for glycol fluids.
- Do not allow fluid to contact painted surfaces; wash immediately with plenty of water if it does.
- Use a scan tool to cycle ABS if the truck has ABS — otherwise you may not remove air from the modulator.
- Replace master cylinder reservoir cap gasket if degraded and bench-bleed the master cylinder if it has been replaced.

Recommended interval
- Replace brake fluid every ~2 years (or per Toyota’s schedule) or sooner if fluid is dark or contaminated.

Done.
rteeqp73

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