1) Fault understanding (theory)
- What a water pump does: a centrifugal impeller driven by the engine circulates coolant through the engine, radiator and heater core to remove heat. The pump contains a rotating shaft with bearings and a mechanical seal; failure modes are seal leak, bearing wear (noise/freeplay), clogged or eroded impeller, or broken housing.
- How failure presents: external coolant leak at pump, grinding or whining from front of engine, overheating, or loss of cabin heat. Any air in the cooling circuit reduces flow and causes local hot spots and overheating.
- How replacement fixes the fault: fitting a new pump restores a leak-tight seal, removes worn bearings/impeller, and re-establishes positive coolant flow; combined with proper bleeding this removes air and prevents cavitation/overheating.

2) Preparation (order + why)
- Gather parts/tools: correct water pump for engine, new gasket/O-ring/sealant as required, new drive belt or timing belt/tensioner if applicable (recommended), coolant, hand tools, torque wrench, drain pan, funnel, hose clamps. Why: worn belts/tensioners often coincide with pump age; removing the pump may require replacing belt components to prevent immediate future failure.
- Safety: work on cold engine, disconnect negative battery terminal if you will remove electrical components, relieve cooling system pressure by opening radiator cap only when cold, wear eye protection/gloves. Why: hot coolant/pressurized system can scald; electrical isolation avoids accidental cranking.

3) Drain cooling system
- Drain coolant into a suitable container by opening radiator drain or lower hose. Capture for proper disposal. Why: prevents spills, reduces contamination of the workspace and allows safe pump removal.

4) Access and removal of obstructing parts (order depends on layout)
- Remove intake ducts, fan shroud, cooling fan (electric or mechanical clutch), accessory drive components as required. Why: gain clear access to pump; fan can be bolted to pump or interfere with removal.
- Note configuration branch:
- Accessory/serpentine-driven pump (common on some Hilux engines): remove serpentine/auxiliary belt, then remove pump pulley. Why: pump is driven by accessory belt; removing belt relieves drive and allows pulley removal.
- Timing-belt/chain-driven pump: you must set engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) and lock timing if pump is driven by the timing belt. Remove timing cover(s), loosen timing belt tensioner and remove belt only if necessary. Why: pump removal may require removing the timing belt; failure to preserve cam/crank timing leads to engine damage or poor operation — TDC and timing marks prevent that.

5) Remove water pump
- Remove mounting bolts in a sequence that allows even release; note bolt lengths and positions. Remove pump assembly. Why: bolts may be different lengths; even removal avoids distorting housing.
- Inspect removed pump: look for bearing play, soot or rusty coolant, impeller corrosion, or gasket failure. Why: confirms diagnosis and helps decide related parts (thermostat, radiator, hoses) to replace.

6) Prepare mating surfaces
- Clean block/mating face thoroughly of old gasket material and sealant without gouging the surface. Blow out passage with low-pressure air if available. Why: a smooth, clean surface is required for a leak-free seal; debris causes leaks and possible coolant loss.

7) Install new pump (theory + order)
- Fit new gasket/seal (use sealant only where specified) and position pump. Install bolts finger tight, then torque to factory spec in a criss-cross pattern. Why: proper torque compresses gasket evenly; over- or under-torque causes leaks or warped housing.
- Reinstall pulley or timing components:
- For accessory-driven: fit pulley and torque bolts to spec, reinstall serpentine belt and set proper belt tension. Why: correct tension prevents slippage and bearing overload.
- For timing-belt-driven: if timing belt was removed, replace timing belt, tensioner and any idlers as a set if possible, set timing marks exactly, and torque tensioner/belt cover bolts to spec. Rotate engine by hand two full revolutions and re-check timing marks. Why: correct cam/crank timing is essential for valve timing and engine integrity; replacing tensioner/idlers prevents premature failure after pump work.

8) Reassembly of removed components
- Refit fan, shroud, intake ducts, any brackets and reconnect hoses, sensors and wiring you removed. Reconnect battery if disconnected. Why: restores system components necessary for cooling and engine operation.

9) Refill and bleed cooling system (theory + order)
- Refill with correct type and mixture of coolant. Use recommended Toyota coolant. Start engine with heater on high and let warm up until thermostat opens; top-up fluid as air bleeds out. For systems with bleed valves, open per procedure until air-free. Why: trapped air pockets prevent coolant flow (especially around head and pump), causing hotspots; correct coolant prevents corrosion and achieves proper boiling/freeze protection.
- Check for leaks around the pump, hoses and fittings while engine is warm and under light revs. Monitor for bearing noise or vibration. Why: ensures repair is sealed and pump bearings run quietly.

10) Test drive and final checks
- Road-test to operating temperature under load; verify stable temperature gauge and heater output. Re-inspect for leaks and re-torque any accessible fasteners if required afterheat cycles. Why: real-world verification ensures the pump restores normal cooling performance and no secondary issues (e.g., belt slip, timing drift) are present.

Special notes and pitfalls (concise)
- Timing-belt pumps: always understand whether your Hilux engine uses the timing belt to drive the water pump. Removing a timing belt without restoring exact timing risks bent valves (on interference engines) or engine misfire. If in doubt, replace timing belt, tensioner and idler while replacing the pump.
- Replace thermostat and hoses when pump is replaced if they are old. A new pump with a failing thermostat still causes overheating.
- Always use correct gaskets and torque specs from the factory workshop manual.
- Air bleeding: failing to properly remove air is a common cause of repeat overheating after a pump job.
- Environmental/safety: dispose of old coolant properly; coolant is toxic to pets.

How this repair fixes specific faults (summary)
- Seal leak at pump: new mechanical seal and gasket restore a pressure-tight joint preventing coolant loss.
- Bearing noise/shaft play: new bearings eliminate mechanical noise and prevent impeller wobble that reduces flow and causes leaks.
- Reduced/blocked flow: a new impeller with correct vane profile restores designed flow rate and eliminates cavitation/erosion-related performance loss.
- Overheating due to air/cooling loss: replacing the pump and properly refilling/bleeding restores continuous coolant circulation and removes air pockets, returning the cooling system to correct thermal management.

Refer to the Toyota Hilux factory workshop manual for exact engine-specific removal order, torque values and coolant type.
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