A skid loader, skid-steer loader or skidsteer is a small, rigid-frame, engine-powered machine with lift arms used to attach a wide variety of labor-saving tools or attachments. Skid-steer loaders are typically four-wheel vehicles with the wheels mechanically locked in synchronization on each side, and where the left-side drive wheels can be driven independently of the right-side drive wheels. The wheels typically have no separate steering mechanism and hold a fixed straight alignment on the body of the machine. Turning is accomplished by differential steering, in which the left and right wheel pairs are operated at different speeds, and the machine turns by skidding or dragging its fixed-orientation wheels across the ground. The extremely rigid frame and strong wheel bearings prevent the torsional forces caused by this dragging motion from damaging the machine. As with tracked vehicles, the high ground friction produced by skid steers can rip up soft or fragile road surfaces. They can be converted to low ground friction by using specially designed wheels such as the Mecanum wheel. Skid-steer loaders are capable of zero-radius, "pirouette" turning, which makes them extremely maneuverable and valuable for applications that require a compact, agile loader. Skid-steer loaders are sometimes equipped with tracks instead of the wheels, and such a vehicle is known as a multi-terrain loader. Unlike in a conventional front loader, the lift arms in these machines are alongside the driver with the pivot points behind the driver's shoulders. Because of the operator's proximity to moving booms, early skid loaders were not as safe as conventional front loaders, particularly during entry and exit of the operator. Modern skid loaders have fully enclosed cabs and other features to protect the operator. Like other front loaders, it can push material from one location to another, carry material in its bucket or load material into a truck or trailer. The first three-wheeled, front-end loader was invented by brothers Cyril and Louis Keller in Rothsay, Minnesota, in 1957. The Kellers built the loader to help a farmer, Eddie Velo, mechanize the process of cleaning turkey manure from his barn. The light and compact machine, with its rear caster wheel, was able to turn around within its own length, while performing the same tasks as a conventional front-end loader. The Melroe brothers, of Melroe Manufacturing Company in Gwinner, North Dakota, purchased the rights to the Keller loader in 1958 and hired the Kellers to continue refining their invention. As a result of this partnership, the M-200 Melroe self-propelled loader was introduced at the end of 1958. It featured two independent front-drive wheels and a rear caster wheel, a 12.9 hp (9.6 kW) engine and a 750-pound (340 kg) lift capacity. Two years later they replaced the caster wheel with a rear axle and introduced the M-400, the first four-wheel, true skid-steer loader. The M-440 was powered by a 15.5 hp (11.6 kW) engine and had an 1,100-pound (500 kg) rated operating capacity. Skid-steer development continued into the mid-1960s with the M600 loader. The conventional bucket of many skid loaders can be replaced with a variety of specialized buckets or attachments, many powered by the loader's hydraulic system. These include backhoe, hydraulic breaker, pallet forks, angle broom, sweeper, auger, mower, snow blower, stump grinder, tree spade, trencher, dumping hopper, pavement miller, ripper, tillers, grapple, tilt, roller, snow blade, wheel saw, cement mixer, and wood chipper machine. Some models of skid steer now also have an automatic attachment changer mechanism. This allows a driver to change between a variety of terrain handling, shaping, and leveling tools without having to leave the machine, by using a hydraulic control mechanism to latch onto the attachments. Hydraulic supply lines to powered attachments may be routed so that the couplings are located near the cab, and the driver does not need to leave the machine to connect or disconnect those supply lines. The original skid-steer loader arms were designed using a hinge at the rear of the machine to pivot the loader arm up into the air in an arc that swings up over the top of the operator. This design tends to limit the usable height to how long the loader arm is and the height of that pivot point. In the raised position the front of the loader arm moves towards the rear of the machine, requiring the operator to move extremely close to or press up against the side of a tall container or other transport vehicle to get the bucket close enough to dump accurately. At the highest arm positions the bucket may overflow the rear of the bucket and spill directly onto the top of the machine's cab. An extended reach design uses multiple hinges and parallel lifting bars on the loader arm, with the main pivot points towards the center or front of the machine. This allows the loader arm to have much greater operating height while retaining a compact design, and allows the vertical movement to be less of an arc and more straight-up vertical, to keep the bucket forward of the operator's cab, allowing safe dumping into tall containers or vehicles. A skid-steer loader can sometimes be used in place of a large excavator by digging a hole from the inside. The skid loader first digs a ramp leading to the edge of the desired excavation. It then uses the ramp to carry material out of the hole. The skid loader reshapes the ramp making it steeper and longer as the excavation deepens. This method is particularly useful for digging under a structure where overhead clearance does not allow for the boom of a large excavator, such as digging a basement under an existing house. Several companies make backhoe attachments for skid-steers. These are more effective for digging in a small area than the method above and can work in the same environments. Other applications may consist of transporting raw material around a job site, or assisting in the rough grading process.

Tools & consumables (minimum)
- OEM workshop manual / parts diagrams (for torque specs & part numbers)
- Heavy-duty floor jack (rated for machine weight) and jack stands or heavy support blocks
- Hydraulic lockout/tagout procedure + keys/isolators
- Wheel chocks, gloves, safety glasses, steel-toe boots, hearing protection
- Spring compressor rated for heavy equipment coils OR heavy-gauge chain + load-rated hoist/engine crane and load spreader (preferred for large coils)
- 3/4"–1" and metric socket/ratchet sets, breaker bar, extensions
- Torque wrench (suitable range for suspension bolts)
- Impact wrench (optional, use carefully)
- Penetrating oil, wire brush, rags
- Punch/drift and hammer, pry bars
- Replacement hardware: nuts, bolts, washers, locknuts (replace as per manual or if damaged)
- Replacement coil springs (OEM part numbers from parts manual for SGK6 / SDK6 / SDK8)
- New rubber spring isolators/seats, bump stops, bushings (strongly recommended)
- Anti-seize or thread locker (per manual)
- Tagging tape and marker for routing/positioning marks

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
1. Read the factory workshop manual for model-specific procedures and torque values before starting.
2. Park on level ground, chock wheels, lower attachments to ground, engage parking brake, shut off engine and remove key.
3. Relieve hydraulic pressure and follow lockout/tagout — isolate auxiliary hydraulics and arm lift circuits to prevent accidental movement.
4. Never work under unsupported components. Always use rated jack stands or blocking. Do not rely on hydraulic jacks alone.
5. Use a spring compressor or load-rated hoist to control spring energy. Uncontrolled spring release is lethal.
6. Wear PPE (gloves, glasses, steel-toe boots). Keep hands clear of pinch points.
7. Mark locations and take photos to ensure correct reassembly.
8. If unsure at any point, stop and consult the OEM service rep.

Overview of procedure (what you will do)
- Isolate machine and support it safely.
- Support the axle/arm so the coil spring is unloaded.
- Remove retaining hardware and lower spring out of its seat using a compressor/hoist.
- Install new spring and isolators, torque hardware to spec, reassemble and test.

Step-by-step replacement
1. Preparation
- Obtain correct replacement coil spring(s) and new rubber seats/isolators/bump stops. Replace hardware as needed.
- Read the machine-specific section on suspension/axle coil springs in the workshop manual for torque specs, spring orientation and special instructions.

2. Secure machine
- Park on level surface, lower bucket/arms to floor, set parking brake, shut down engine, remove key.
- Chock wheels front & rear if applicable.
- Perform hydraulic lockout per OEM — relieve pressure from lift/tilt circuits and secure control levers.

3. Raise and support
- If the spring is between chassis and axle/arm, raise the machine enough to take weight off that wheel/side using a heavy-duty jack.
- Place rated jack stands or heavy timber blocks under recommended support points (see manual). Never rely solely on the jack.
- If replacing springs on both sides, do one side at a time unless both are removed with proper support.

4. Unload the spring safely
- Support the lower suspension arm or axle with a separate jack or hoist so the coil spring is not bearing load and can be removed safely.
- If the spring is preloaded in a pocket or seat, apply spring compressor or attach load-rated chain to the spring and connect to hoist/crane. Tighten evenly and keep hands/face clear.
- Confirm spring is fully unloaded before removing any retainers.

5. Remove wheel/obstruction (if applicable)
- Remove wheel(s) or any covers that obstruct access to the spring.
- Label and store fasteners in sequence.

6. Remove retaining hardware & spring
- Spray penetrating oil on bolts/nuts and let soak.
- Remove bolts that locate/retain the spring seat, isolator, or retainer plate. Use drift/punch if corroded.
- Carefully ease the spring out of its lower and upper seats. If using a compressor, gradually compress and free the spring; if using hoist, lower the spring out slowly while keeping it under control.
- Inspect spring seats, brackets and coil ends for wear or distortion.

7. Prepare new spring & seats
- Clean the seating surfaces and wire-brush any rust. Replace rubber isolators and seats.
- Compare new spring to old for length, coil diameter and free height. They must match.
- If the spring has a specific orientation or indexing notch, align per manual.

8. Install new spring
- Position the new spring in the lower seat. Compress only as much as needed to align the upper seat.
- If using compressor: compress evenly and keep springs straight; do not use over-tightened or damaged compressors. If using hoist: lift the spring into position and engage seats.
- Make sure rubber isolators are seated and the coil end rests properly in the seat notch.

9. Reinstall retainers & torque
- Reinstall any retainer plates, bolts, washers and nuts. Hand-tighten first, then torque to OEM specification using a torque wrench. If manual calls for thread locker or anti-seize, apply as instructed.
- Replace any worn bushings or hardware.

10. Re-check support & reassemble
- Slowly remove supports/jack so the spring takes load. Observe for correct seating, no binding, and that the spring is centered.
- Refit wheel(s) and torque wheel nuts to spec.
- Lower machine to ground, remove stands/chocks as appropriate.

11. Final torque & test
- With machine on ground and weight settled, re-torque suspension hardware to final spec.
- Reconnect any hydraulics removed and clear lockouts.
- Start engine, operate lift/tilt slowly and inspect for proper operation, clearance, and unusual noises.
- Road or function test at low speed — listen for clunks and re-check torque after initial hours of operation.

How the main tools are used (practical notes)
- Heavy-duty jack & stands: Use to lift and then support the chassis. Place stands on solid frame points per manual. Never work with only the jack.
- Spring compressor (coil compressor): Hooks into coil at two opposite points and draws the coils together so the spring can be moved out of its seat. Compress evenly, alternating sides, and never cram the compressor beyond its rated capacity. For large equipment coils, use a heavy-duty compressor or hoist method instead of light automotive compressors.
- Hoist/engine crane & chain sling: Used when spring is large/heavy. Attach chain to spring center coil spaced so load is evenly distributed. Use spreader plates to avoid concentrating load on spring.
- Torque wrench: Always use to tighten suspension bolts to the specified torque. Replace worn torque wrenches periodically and set correctly.
- Penetrating oil & heat: Use penetrating oil on rusted bolts. If heating bolts, follow safety and manual guidance — avoid damaging nearby seals/hydraulic lines.

Replacement parts commonly required
- OEM coil springs (match part number for SGK6 / SDK6 / SDK8)
- Rubber spring isolators / seats
- Bump stops
- Mounting bolts, washers, locknuts (replace if stretched/corroded)
- Bushings and sleeves if present in spring seats
- Optional: anti-corrosion spray, paint for exposed metal

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Removing springs under load — DO NOT remove a spring until it’s fully unloaded and secured. Use compressor/hoist or support arms.
- Using undersized compressors: Use a compressor or hoist rated for the coil’s stored energy and size.
- Re-using worn isolators/hardware: Replace rubber seats and hardware to prevent noise and premature failure.
- Incorrect orientation/seat alignment: Mark and photograph original orientation. Check coil end location and indexing.
- Relying on hydraulic jacks as sole support: Always use mechanical stands/blocks.
- Not following torque specs: Over/under torqued fasteners cause failure and unsafe conditions — use the factory torque values.
- Ignoring hydraulic lockout: Accidental movement can crush or pinch — lockout/tagout is mandatory.
- Skipping function test: Always test with low-risk operations first and recheck torque after initial use.

Final notes
- Always follow the Toyota SGK/SDK workshop manual for model-specific instructions and torque values.
- If the spring assembly is welded into a subframe or requires special tools unique to SGK/SDK machines, follow manual instructions or have the work done at an authorized service center.

That’s the complete step-by-step process and precautions.
rteeqp73