1) Symptoms and diagnosis (why you suspect the water‑pump pulley)
- Noisy pulley (rumble, growl) → bearing wear or shaft misalignment.
- Visible wobble or belt vibration → pulley runout or bad key/keyway.
- Repeated belt slip, glazing or heat buildup → pulley surface damage or misalignment.
- Coolant leak at pump shaft = bad seal; pulley removal needed to replace seal.
- Overheating after belt work or pulley hit → reduced coolant flow from slipping/warped pulley.

Theory: the pulley transfers crank/auxiliary drive torque to the pump shaft. It must be concentric and rigidly keyed to the shaft. Bearing supports radial load; the seal keeps coolant out of the bearing/drive. If the pulley is worn, bent, loose on the key, or the seal/bearing has failed, the pump shaft will not rotate smoothly or will leak, causing belt damage, noise, reduced pump speed and cooling loss.

2) Preparations (safety and parts)
- Tools: socket set, breaker bar, puller (3‑jaw or dedicated), torque wrench, soft‑face hammer or brass drift, punch, screwdriver, circlip pliers (if applicable), gasket scraper, solvent, light press or arbor if available, dial indicator (optional), new pulley, new key, new seal/gasket, new fan washer/nut if worn, threadlocker if manual calls for it.
- Safety: park on level, engine cold, remove ignition/kill battery lead. Catch coolant; drain lower radiator hose enough to drop pump level so it won’t spill when you remove the pulley/seal.
- Clean work area so you can inspect small parts (key, washer, circlip).

3) Removal — ordered steps
1. Relieve belt tension and remove the drive belts and fan assembly as needed to access the pulley. Note belt routing or mark for reassembly.
2. Secure the water‑pump shaft: fit a holding tool or hold the fan hub if still attached. Remove the pulley retaining nut/washer/clip. Keep parts in order.
3. Use a correct‑sized pulley puller centered on the pulley hub. Pull straight, slow, until the pulley comes off. Do not pry on the pump housing — that bends the pump.
4. Inspect removed pulley for runout, cracks, keyway damage, and the inside bore. Inspect the shaft for scoring, keyway damage, and axial play. Inspect seal lip area for leakage and bearing play in the pump (rock the shaft radially).
5. If the pulley is frozen and the puller risks harming the pump seal, apply penetrating oil and allow time; use even pressure and heat the pulley bore gently (not near seals) to loosen. If bearing is failing or shaft is damaged, plan for pump rebuild/replacement rather than just pulley swap.

Theory: the puller separates the interference fit without stressing the pump. Inspecting components determines whether the issue is only the pulley or deeper (shaft/bearing/seal). A wobbling pulley commonly indicates bore/out‑of‑round or shaft key damage.

4) Repair actions and theory why they fix the fault
A. Replace pulley only (if shaft and seal are good)
- Clean shaft and bore. Replace the key with a new one sized to the keyway.
- Press or drive the new pulley onto the shaft squarely, using a soft mallet or an arbor press. Press against the pulley hub only — do not press on the front that could transmit load to the seal.
- Reinstall washer/retaining nut/clip, torque to spec, replace belts, set tension, test run.
Theory: a new pulley with a new key restores concentric drive and prevents slip and runout; correct torque secures it so it won’t loosen and damage the keyway.

B. Replace pump seal (if leaking) while pulley is off
- With pulley off, remove old seal carefully, clean the bore, and install a new lip seal squarely to the correct depth using a driver.
- Reinstall pulley as above.
Theory: the seal prevents coolant ingress onto the bearing and keeps coolant in the pump. Replacing the seal stops leaks and prevents bearing corrosion that causes noise and wobble.

C. Replace pump bearing/shaft or entire water pump (if shaft play, bearing noise, or shaft damage)
- If radial play or rough bearing is found, the inner bearing or shaft is compromised. On these tractors, bearing replacement often requires full pump disassembly or replacement unit.
- Remove pump housing from engine per workshop procedure, change bearing/shaft or fit new pump, replace gaskets, and reinstall.
Theory: worn bearings allow axial/radial shaft movement producing pulley runout, belt wear, and reduced pump speed. Replacing bearings or pump restores true rotation and pump volumetric efficiency.

5) Reassembly (ordered)
1. Clean mating surfaces, fit new gaskets/seals as required.
2. Fit pulley with fresh key; seat evenly. Use a press or soft hammer with a block to avoid shock to seals.
3. Torque the retaining nut to manufacturer spec (use the workshop manual; if unknown, tighten to a firm setting and check later — DO NOT overtorque). Replace cotter pins or locking devices.
4. Refit the fan and belts. Set belt tension within spec: too loose → slip; too tight → bearing overload. Measure deflection or use tension gauge per spec.
5. Refill coolant to correct level and bleed air from system.
6. Start engine, run at idle, listen for noises, check for leaks, check belt tracking and tension again after a short run.

Theory: correct torque and correct belt tension ensure load is shared correctly and bearings aren’t overloaded. Proper sealing and gasketing prevent coolant loss and contamination.

6) Verification and final checks
- With pulley installed, check runout with a dial indicator on the pulley face (acceptable runout typically small, <0.2–0.5 mm depending on spec). If excessive, recheck key seating and shaft condition.
- Warm engine to normal temp, verify no overheating and stable coolant flow. Inspect around pump for leaks.
- Recheck belt tension and alignment after first hour of operation.

7) Common causes and how the repair addresses them
- Bent/worn pulley: new pulley restores concentric drive — stops vibration and belt wear.
- Loose/missing key or damaged keyway: new key and correct seating transmit torque without slippage.
- Worn pump bearing: replacement restores shaft stability and correct pump speed.
- Faulty seal: new seal stops leaks and prevents bearing contamination.
- Improper installation (pulley hammered on, wrong torque): reinstallation with correct method and torque prevents recurrence.

8) Quick cautions (no fluff)
- Don’t lever on the pump housing; use a proper puller.
- Avoid hammering on the seal area; protect the seal.
- Replace key every time a pulley is fitted if the old key shows deformation.
- If in doubt about bearing wear/shaft scoring, replace the pump assembly — cheap relative to repeated failures.

Follow the above ordered diagnostic and repair flow: diagnose symptom → remove pulley carefully → inspect shaft/key/seal/bearing → decide: pulley only, seal, or pump replacement → fit new parts with proper seating and torque → set belts and verify runout and cooling. This restores concentric drive, proper sealing, and bearing support — which are the physical reasons the fault stops.
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Splitting a John deere 970 to change the clutch. Splitting a John deere to change out a stuck clutch.

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