Safety first (read once, then do): isolate battery negative, allow engine to cool, support vehicle safely, wear eye/hand protection, and follow lockout/tagout if working in a workshop.

Ordered procedure (theory + practical steps)

1) What the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) does — theory
- Function: the CKP senses crankshaft rotation and angular position and sends that to the ECU/engine controller. The ECU uses that signal for fuel injection timing, injection synchronization on common-rail diesels, engine speed, and misfire/starting logic.
- Types: two common technologies:
- Variable-reluctance (VR) / inductive: a toothed reluctor passes a ferrous target; sensor produces an AC sinusoidal voltage whose amplitude and frequency rise with speed.
- Hall-effect / digital: powered (reference voltage supplied by ECU); outputs a square wave (0–5 V or 0–12 V) indicating teeth/no-teeth.
- Failure modes: open/shorted sensor, contaminated/metallic debris on reluctor, damaged reluctor/reluctor ring, wiring/connector corrosion or broken shield, misalignment or air gap too large. Symptoms: no-start or hard-start, intermittent stalling, rough idle, limp mode, loss of injection synchronization, error DTCs (e.g., CKP circuit, crankshaft position missing).

2) Identify exact sensor and location (brief)
- On the N04C series the CKP is mounted where it reads the crankshaft/flywheel reluctor (commonly at the bellhousing/flywheel area or crank pulley area). Use the Hino workshop manual or parts diagram to confirm exact mounting and access route for your chassis. Note: access may require raising vehicle or removing transmission splash covers.

3) Prepare tools and equipment
- Tools: metric sockets/wrenches, screwdrivers, torque wrench, penetrating oil, safety stands, ratchet extensions, dielectric spray, small pick or terminal cleaner.
- Diagnostic equipment: multimeter (DC/VAC, resistance), oscilloscope (recommended) or a lab scan tool that can show CKP waveform and rpm; small mirror/inspection light; cleaning rag.
- Replacement sensor (OE or equivalent), new O-ring or seal if applicable, connector grease.

4) Initial diagnostics (verify fault before replacing)
- Read DTCs with scan tool and note freeze frame. Clear codes, attempt crank; if codes recur, proceed.
- Visual: inspect wiring harness and connector for corrosion, broken wires, or damaged shielding. Check reluctor/mounting area for metal debris or oil contamination.
- Electrical checks:
- For VR sensor: measure resistance across sensor terminals (cold). Expect a finite resistance (spec in manual); if open/infinite or short to ground, sensor is bad. While cranking, measure AC voltage between signal and ground — should produce pulses proportional to crank speed.
- For Hall sensor: with ignition on, verify reference voltage from ECU to sensor (often 5V), verify ground continuity. Backprobe signal wire while cranking — should see switching (0–ref V).
- Use oscilloscope if available: good waveform is a clean repetitive sinusoid (VR) or square wave (Hall) with consistent amplitude and spacing between teeth. Intermittent, noisy, or missing waveforms indicate bad sensor, wiring, or reluctor.

5) Access and remove the sensor (ordered mechanical steps)
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Gain access: raise vehicle safely if necessary, remove any covers/splash shields or components obstructing access to CKP sensor and connector.
- Disconnect the electrical connector: release locking tab and separate. Clean connector area before disconnecting to avoid contamination entering engine bay.
- Remove mounting bolt(s) securing the sensor. If stuck, apply penetrating oil, allow soak time.
- Gently withdraw sensor from its bore. Note any O-ring or seal — remove and discard if damaged.
- Inspect sensor tip and bore:
- For VR/Hall: look for metal shavings, heavy oil buildup, scoring, or a cracked magnet/cover. Magnetic debris on tip: clean with a soft brush; if heavy scoring or magnet cracked, replace.
- Inspect reluctor ring/teeth through bore if possible; look for missing teeth, cracks, or heavy wear.

6) Inspect wiring and connector
- Check continuity from sensor plug back to ECU connector pin (with harness intact) and for short to ground. Wiggle harness to check intermittent breaks.
- Clean pins with contact cleaner; apply dielectric grease to connector on reassembly.

7) Install new sensor (ordered steps)
- If the new sensor has an O-ring or seal, lightly coat with clean engine oil or specified grease. Ensure seating surfaces are clean.
- Insert sensor carefully into bore; do not force or damage the tip. Ensure correct orientation and seating depth.
- Tighten mounting bolt(s) to the workshop manual torque spec (use torque wrench). If you do not have the spec to hand, tighten to a firm, manufacturer-specified torque — not just “hand tight.”
- Reconnect the electrical connector fully until it locks.
- Reinstall any removed covers or components.

8) Post-installation electrical checks and ECU reset
- Reconnect battery negative.
- With ignition on (engine not cranking), verify reference voltage (Hall) or sensor resistance (if applicable) one last time.
- Use scan tool to clear stored fault codes; attempt to crank and observe live data: CKP rpm and waveform or live signal should appear. Check for any new or recurring codes.
- If vehicle requires crank/cam correlation learning or synchronization (some ECUs automatically relearn), follow the workshop manual procedure. If not automatic, use the scan tool to perform any CKP relearn if required.

9) Functional test and road test
- Start engine. Verify smooth starting, idle stability, and that previous symptoms are resolved. Monitor live rpm, injection timing if available, and absence of CKP-related DTCs.
- Short road test under varied loads. Re-scan for codes after test.

Why the repair fixes the fault — theory linked to steps
- The ECU depends on a clean, properly timed position/speed signal from the CKP. A faulty sensor (open/shorted, contaminated, damaged, or with bad connector/wiring) either supplies no signal, intermittent signal, or a noisy/distorted signal.
- Replacing the sensor restores the correct sensing element (magnet/coil or Hall transistor) so the ECU receives a clean waveform with accurate timing and amplitude. Cleaning/repairing wiring/connectors restores a stable power, ground and signal reference so the waveform isn’t dropped or distorted.
- Correct mounting and air gap ensure the sensor reads the reluctor teeth at the correct amplitude and timing; replacing a damaged O-ring or reseating prevents oil ingress or movement that would change the gap and waveform.
- Eliminating metal debris or replacing a damaged reluctor ring ensures each tooth produces a consistent transition for the sensor, restoring reliable tooth-to-tooth timing used by the ECU for injection events.
- After installation, clearing codes and confirming live waveform ensures the ECU can re-sync; this stops mis-timing, poor starting, stalls, limp mode, and incorrect fueling caused by absent or erratic crank signals.

Quick checklist (before finishing)
- Confirm no codes and CKP waveform present.
- Wiring harness free from chafes, proper routing, connector fully seated with dielectric grease.
- Mounting bolts torqued to spec and sensor seated properly; any seals replaced.
- Road-test verified.

End.
rteeqp73

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Industrial Diesel Engines | Products & Technology | HINO MOTORS The HINO J05 series diesel engine was developed based on an engine for HINO medium duty trucks and buses. It belongs to the same family as the HINO J08 series and both series employ lots of common parts, such as pistons, cylinder liners, etc., which allows better availability of spare parts.

【公表情報一覧】エンジン認証に関する当社の不正行為について | ニュース | 日野自動車株式会社 国土交通省への陳述書提出および小型エンジン「n04c（尿素 scr）」の不正行為について. 2022年3月11日 特別調査委員会の設置について. 2022年3月4日 エンジン認証に関する当社の不正行為について. 特別調査委員会 調査報告書 2022年8月02日 調査報告書（全文）

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