Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- Basic hand tools: ratchet (1/4" & 3/8"), extensions, swivel, metric sockets (8–19 mm), Torx/Allen set as needed
- Torque wrench (0–100 Nm range)
- Flat/Phillips screwdrivers, pick set
- Magnetic pickup / tray for small parts
- Drain pan (capacity ≥6 L) and rags
- Floor jack + jack stands or lift, wheel chocks
- Transmission fluid pump / funnel
- New transmission fluid (Isuzu spec; typically Dexron VI or factory spec — verify for your year/box)
- Replacement parts: valve body assembly or rebuild kit, transmission filter, pan gasket and pan bolts if required, new O‑rings/seals, replacement solenoids if faulty
- Clean solvent (brake cleaner), lint-free cloths
- Multimeter (optional, for testing solenoids)
- Small containers or labelled trays to keep bolts/balls in order
- Scan tool capable of reading/clearing transmission codes and initiating adaptation (recommended)
- Safety gear: nitrile gloves, eye protection

Safety & prep
1. Work on a level surface, parking brake on, wheels chocked.
2. Wear eye protection and gloves. Transmission fluid can be hot — allow the vehicle to cool if recently driven.
3. Raise vehicle with floor jack and secure on jack stands (never rely on jack alone). Ensure safe access under vehicle.
4. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you will be disconnecting electrical connectors for more than a few minutes.

Step-by-step valve body replacement
1. Confirm diagnosis
- Confirm the valve body is the fault (error codes, pressure tests, shift symptoms). Replace solenoid(s) or valve body only if confirmed. Use scan tool to read transmission-related DTCs.

2. Drain transmission pan
- Place drain pan under transmission pan. Remove the pan bolts starting at the corner opposite the drain to control fluid flow. If pan has a drain plug, use it. Allow fluid to drain sufficiently — tip: loosen all bolts except two opposite corners and slowly pry the pan down to control spill.

3. Remove pan and inspect
- Remove pan, set aside; inspect magnet(s) for metal debris. Excessive metal indicates major transmission damage — stop and reassess.
- Clean pan and magnet. Replace pan gasket.

4. Remove transmission filter
- Remove retaining bolts/clips and lower filter. Note orientation and routing of any pickup tube or O‑rings. Small parts may fall free — put them in a labelled tray.

5. Access valve body electrical connectors
- Unplug all valve body solenoid connectors and shift sensor connectors. Label connectors and harnesses if not keyed.

6. Support/prepare for valve body removal
- Place drain pan under valve body area and keep rags to catch residual fluid. Use magnetic pickup/tray for bolts, check balls, springs. Be methodical — valve body bores contain springs/balls that will drop when the body is loosened.

7. Remove valve body bolts
- Loosen valve body bolts in a crisscross/star pattern gradually to avoid warping and to allow even separation. Keep track of bolt lengths and positions — some bolts are different lengths. Use a magnetic tray or labelled container for each location.

8. Lower valve body carefully
- As you lower the valve body, watch for and capture any check balls, springs, and shims that fall out. Many valve bodies hold small balls (1–6 mm) in bores; losing or mixing them will cause malfunction. Keep parts in order with the diagram or mark their location.

9. Inspect & replace parts
- Compare new valve body to old. If reusing solenoids, transfer them carefully and torque to spec. Replace the transmission filter and any O‑rings. Replace any worn/damaged check balls or springs. Clean mating surfaces with lint‑free cloth and solvent.

10. Install replacement valve body
- Position valve body into place aligning dowel pins. Reinsert bolts by hand in their original locations. Tighten in the specified crisscross sequence gradually to final torque (see torque notes below). Reconnect solenoid connectors.

11. Reinstall filter and pan
- Install new filter, ensuring proper seating of pickup tube O‑ring. Install new pan gasket and torque pan bolts in a cross pattern to spec.

12. Refill transmission fluid
- Lower vehicle. Refill with the correct amount and type of ATF using a pump or funnel into the dipstick tube or fill hole. Start with the manufacturer’s specified refill amount minus the drained quantity; exact topping requires level check at operating temperature.

13. Bleed/learn procedure & level check
- Reconnect battery if disconnected. Start engine and let it reach operating temperature. With the engine running and brake set, cycle through gears (P→R→N→D→each gear) per factory procedure to circulate fluid and bleed air. Leave in park and re-check fluid level with engine idling and at specified temperature — adjust to exact level.

14. Final steps & road test
- Clear stored transmission codes with the scan tool. Test drive to verify shift quality and no leaks. After road test, recheck fluid level and torque pan bolts if required.

How tools are used (practical notes)
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts in stages using the correct sequence. Use a click-type wrench set to the factory Nm. Rapid or uneven tightening can warp the valve body or strip bolts.
- Magnetic pickup: retrieve dropped check balls or bolts from tight areas; prevents losing tiny parts in the casing.
- Multimeter: measure solenoid coil resistance (compare to service spec). Disconnect connector, probe two pins on each solenoid — a reading out of spec indicates replacement.
- Drain pan & fluid pump: capture and accurately transfer fluid. Avoid spills.
- Ratchet + swivel/extension: access recessed bolts on valve body; use care to avoid rounding bolts.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Valve body assembly (complete) OR valve body rebuild kit (gaskets, check balls, springs, valves) depending on condition
- Transmission filter and pan gasket (always replace)
- Pan bolts (if damaged or manufacturer recommends)
- Solenoids (if faulty; test before replacement)
- Transmission fluid (specified type and correct amount)

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Losing check balls/springs: always work over a clean tray and keep parts in order and labeled. Consult service diagram.
- Mixing bolt lengths: sort bolts by position and don’t interchange long and short bolts.
- Wrong fluid or wrong amount: use manufacturer-specified ATF and level at specified operating temperature.
- Not replacing filter/gasket: always replace these; reusing an old filter risks contamination.
- Improper torquing: under/over torque causes leaks or warping. Use torque wrench and factory specs.
- Contaminating valve body bores: keep everything clean and lint‑free. Don’t introduce dirt into hydraulic passages.
- Skipping adaptation/relearn: some vehicles require TCM adaptation after valve body swap — use a scan tool to run the procedure if required.
- Ignoring diagnostic codes: clear codes only after repair and confirm no persistent faults.

Torque & specification note
- Bolt torques and solenoid ohms vary by model/year. Use the Isuzu workshop manual for exact torque values and electrical specs. Typical ranges (for reference only): valve body bolts ~8–18 Nm, pan bolts ~8–12 Nm, solenoid bolts ~7–10 Nm. Verify before final torquing.

Wrap-up
- Be organized and methodical: label connectors, keep bolts/parts ordered, and use clean work practices. If you find extensive metal debris in the pan or internal damage, stop — that indicates deeper transmission failure and may require a rebuild or replacement.

This procedure assumes intermediate mechanical skill. If you are unsure at any step or encounter unexpected damage, have the transmission inspected by a professional.
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