Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Below is a practical, detailed guide to how a manual transmission on an Isuzu D‑Max works, what each component does, what commonly fails, and step‑by‑step procedures for the typical repairs (clutch replacement and gearbox removal/overhaul). This is written for a beginner mechanic — read it fully before you start, follow safety rules, and use the factory service manual for exact torque values and model‑specific details.

Safety first (do these before any work)
- Work on level ground. Use rated jack stands, wheel chocks, and a transmission jack or equivalent support for heavy components. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid shorts and accidental starter engagement.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and appropriate clothing. Have a fire extinguisher and first aid kit nearby.
- Use engine support or an engine hoist if engine will be supported only by the transmission.
- Dispose of oil/fluids properly.

High level theory — how a manual transmission works (analogy)
- Think of a bicycle with multiple sprockets and a chain. The engine is the pedal force, clutch is your hand decoupling the pedals from the chain to change gears smoothly, and the gearbox is the set of sprockets and derailleur that change gear ratios. A manual gearbox transfers engine torque through meshed gears to the driveshafts; synchronizers let you match rotational speeds so gears engage smoothly. Clutch allows temporary disconnection so you can change gears and stop without stalling.

Main components and detailed descriptions
1. Engine flywheel
- Heavy steel disc bolted to the crankshaft.
- Provides inertia and a friction surface for the clutch pressure plate and disc.
- Has pilot bore or pilot bearing/bushing in center to support the input shaft.

2. Clutch assembly
- Clutch disc (friction disc): splined to the transmission input shaft; friction material on both sides; contains springs for shock damping.
- Pressure plate: bolted to flywheel; clamps clutch disc to flywheel when engaged.
- Release (throw‑out) bearing: moves on a fork to press the pressure plate diaphragm and release the disc.
- Clutch fork / hydraulic slave or cable: mechanical or hydraulic mechanism to move the release bearing.
- Pilot bearing/bushing: supports input shaft at crank center.

3. Bellhousing
- Cast housing that joins engine and transmission, houses clutch and sometimes starter motor.

4. Input shaft (mainshaft front portion)
- Splined shaft that takes torque from the clutch disc into the gearbox.

5. Cluster/lay shaft (countershaft)
- Gear cluster that meshes with input/mainshaft gears; driven by input and drives output gears in various ratios.

6. Output/mainshaft (transmission output)
- Carries selected gear to the driveshaft/propshaft.

7. Gears and gearsets
- Each gear pair gives a different ratio. Gears are typically helical for smoothness, some dogs for engagement.

8. Synchronizers (synchro rings and sleeves)
- Small cones (synchronizer rings) and sliding collars that match speeds of gears before they engage to prevent grinding.

9. Shift forks and rails
- Move the synchronizer sleeves left/right to select gears when you move shift lever.

10. Bearings and seals
- Roller/ball/needle bearings support shafts; oil seals prevent lubricant leakage.

11. Reverse idler gear
- Engages reverse by providing opposite rotation through an idler gear.

12. Selector mechanism (linkage / shifter)
- Inside car and on transmission housing; links shift lever to forks.

13. Differential (if integrated)
- Splits torque to the wheels (some transmissions include it; on many 4x4 vehicles the differential is in the transfer case / axle).

14. Transfer case (on 4x4 models)
- Transfers power to front and rear outputs; may have its own chain/gears.

What goes wrong — common symptoms and causes
- Clutch slipping under load: worn clutch disc friction, glazed surface, oil contamination (leaking rear main seal or transmission input seal), weak pressure plate springs.
- Clutch chatter/shudder on engagement: contaminated disc, warped flywheel, hardened motor mounts, or wrong lining.
- Hard or crunchy shifting: worn or broken synchronizer rings, misadjusted linkage, sticky shifter bushings, or low/contaminated gear oil.
- Gear popping out / not staying engaged: worn dog teeth, worn shift forks, worn detent springs, or worn synchronizer hubs.
- Grinding going into gear: failed synchronizer, incorrect clutch release (not fully disengaging), or worn input shaft splines.
- Transmission whine or bearing noise: worn bearings (input, output, countershaft), worn gears.
- Oil leaks: damaged seals (input/output seals), worn gasket, loosened bolts.
- Excessive play or end‑float: worn bearings or thrust washers.

Diagnostics — tests and checks
- Road test to note which gears/noises occur and under what RPM/load.
- Clutch slip test: in safe area, hold gear and apply throttle in higher gear — if RPM rises without proportional acceleration, slip exists.
- Clutch pedal freeplay: measure and compare to spec; too much/too little affects disengagement.
- Check for fluid leaks under bellhousing, input/output seal areas.
- Check gear oil level and condition (metal flakes indicate internal wear).
- On a parked car, try engaging gears with clutch depressed — grinding points to clutch not releasing or synchro issues.
- Listen: whining that changes with engine RPM = input shaft/bearing; whining with vehicle speed = output shaft/differential.

Tools and parts you’ll need (typical)
- Tools: metric socket set, torque wrench, breaker bar, screwdrivers, pliers, snap ring pliers, puller set, pry bars, hammer, alignment tool for clutch, clutch centering tool, transmission jack or engine support, hydraulic line tools, bleed kit, torque angle gauge if required.
- Shop tools for rebuild: bearing press, drift set, dial gauge for end play/backlash, calipers, micrometer.
- Consumables/parts: clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing), pilot bearing/bushing, flywheel (resurface or replace), transmission oil, seals, gaskets, new bearings/synchro rings if rebuilding, new shift fork(s) if damaged.
- Safety: jack stands, wheel chocks, engine support.

Step‑by‑step: clutch replacement and gearbox removal (typical sequence)
Note: The following is a general sequence for a rear‑wheel drive pickup like an Isuzu D‑Max. Exact steps, bolt locations, torque values and any special tools come from the factory service manual — consult it.

Preparation
1. Gather parts and tools, clear workspace, read the manual.
2. Disconnect negative battery.
3. Raise vehicle and secure on jack stands. Remove rear driveshaft or prop shaft if applicable (mark orientation to reinstall).
4. Drain gearbox oil (catch pan).

Disconnect and remove external items
5. Remove center console/shift boot and disconnect shift linkage from inside.
6. Remove starter (easier to access bellhousing bolts).
7. Disconnect clutch hydraulic lines or cable. If hydraulic, clamp or cap lines to limit fluid loss.
8. Remove any heat shields, exhaust crosspipes, or other obstructions.
9. Support engine from top with hoist or support bracket if engine will not be supported by transmission.

Remove transmission
10. Support transmission with a transmission jack.
11. Remove bellhousing bolts (work methodically, some hidden behind wiring or brackets).
12. Carefully separate gearbox from engine. You may need to pry slightly; watch for dowel pins and alignment.
13. Lower gearbox clear and move it to a bench.

Inspect and remove clutch
14. With transmission removed, inspect clutch condition: clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, pilot bearing.
15. Remove pressure plate bolts gradually in star pattern to avoid warping.
16. Remove clutch disc and check for oil contamination, rivet exposure, or worn friction surface.
17. Remove pilot bearing/bushing from crank if replacing.

Flywheel inspection
18. Inspect flywheel for hot spots, cracks, heavy scoring. Resurface or replace if needed. Do NOT reuse a cracked or badly scored flywheel.

Replace clutch parts
19. Install new pilot bushing if needed (press in).
20. Install clutch alignment tool into new clutch disc splines and position disc on flywheel.
21. Bolt new pressure plate to flywheel in star pattern, gradually torquing to specified value.
22. Install new release bearing on clutch fork/rail; ensure smooth operation.

Reinstall transmission
23. Clean input shaft splines and lightly grease splines of clutch disc (only a light coat; do not contaminate friction surfaces).
24. Align transmission input shaft into clutch splines and mate gearbox to engine. Ensure dowels align.
25. Install and torque bellhousing bolts to spec.
26. Reconnect starter, linkage, hydraulic lines. Reinstall driveshaft/propshaft in correct orientation.
27. Refill gearbox to specified oil level with correct grade.
28. If hydraulic clutch, bleed system per procedures until free of air.

Final checks and testing
29. Check for leaks and proper bolt torque.
30. With vehicle on stands, start engine and test clutch operation (press pedal, shift through gears).
31. Take a slow test drive, watch for slipping, chatter, or noises. Re-check fluid levels and fasteners after initial test drive.

If gearbox must be rebuilt — overview of internal rebuild steps
- Remove shift housing and input/output shaft covers; keep track of the order of parts, mark positions.
- Remove snap rings, bearing retainers, and press out bearings from shafts (press required).
- Inspect gears for broken teeth, wear patterns (pitting, scoring), check synchromesh cones for wear, measure ring thickness against new parts.
- Replace worn bearings, thrust washers, and synchromesh rings as a kit when possible.
- Assembly requires correct shimming for end play/backlash. Use dial gauge to set end‑float and backlash to service manual specs.
- Reinstall all seals and gaskets, fill with specified oil.

Inspection criteria and measurements (general guidance)
- Clutch disc: compare thickness to new; if friction material is worn to rivets or significantly reduced, replace.
- Flywheel: resurface if glazing, hotspots, or light scoring; replace if cracks or excessive runout.
- Release bearing: noisy or rough = replace.
- Pilot bearing: noisy or rough = replace.
- Synchronizer rings: wear on friction cones, broken keys or teeth = replace.
- Bearings: rough feel or play = replace.
- Gear teeth: pitting, chipped teeth, or heavy scoring = replace gear(s).

Tips and common gotchas
- Always use an alignment tool when installing clutch — otherwise you'll struggle to mate input shaft.
- Never reuse a contaminated clutch disc — oil contamination causes immediate problems.
- Replace the release bearing and pilot bearing whenever you replace the clutch.
- Label bolts and small parts; take photos as you disassemble to help reassembly.
- Don’t overtighten bolts without torque specs — you can strip holes or warp components.
- Use new seals and crush washers as required to avoid future leaks.
- When bleeding hydraulic clutches, make sure no air remains or shifting will be poor.
- Do a careful test drive to confirm gears hold and shift smoothly.

When to involve a professional
- If you find major gearbox damage (broken gears, extensive metal in oil), or cannot measure/set end play/backlash accurately, this is a job for a transmission shop with presses and gear measuring tools.
- If you’re unsure about engine support or heavy lifting, get help — dropping an engine or transmission is dangerous.

Closing — keep it safe, follow the manual
This guide gives the theory, components, failure modes, diagnostics, and a step‑by‑step procedure for clutch change and how to approach transmission removal and rebuild. For model‑specific details such as bolt locations, torque values, bearing part numbers, and the exact process for your Isuzu D‑Max year/engine/4x4 or 2WD version, use the Isuzu factory service manual or OEM repair data.
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