Jeep Wrangler TJ 2000 factory workshop and repair manual
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Covers the gasoline petrol engines 2.5 L AMC straight-4 engine * 4.0 L AMC straight-4 engine
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Lubrication and Maintenance
Suspension
Differential & Driveline
Vehicle Quick Reference
Brakes
Cooling
Audio/Video
Chime/Buzzer
Electronic Control Modules
Engine Systems
Heated Systems
Horn
Ignition Control
Instrument Cluster
Lamps
Message Systems
Power Systems & Restraints
Speed Control
Vehicle Theft Security
Wipers/Washers
Navigation/Telecommunication
Wiring
Engine
Exhaust System
Frame & Bumpers
Fuel System
Steering
Transmission and Transfer Case
Tires/Wheels
Body
Heating & Air Conditioning
Emission Control
Component and System Index
Jeep Wrangler TJ 2000 factory workshop and repair manual
- Safety first
- Work on a cool exhaust; never work on a hot muffler or pipe.
- Work on a flat, level surface with the parking brake on and wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Wear safety glasses, heavy gloves, and a long-sleeve shirt. Have a fire extinguisher nearby if cutting or welding.
- Use jack stands — never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Tools you said you have (basic tools) — what they are and how to use them
- Hydraulic floor jack: used to lift the vehicle. Position under a strong jacking point (frame or axle), pump handle to lift slowly. Once up, place jack stands before working under the Jeep and lower the jack slightly so the weight transfers to the stands.
- Jack stands: support the vehicle. Place under frame rails, adjust to equal height, verify stability before going under.
- Wheel chocks: wedge behind wheels to prevent roll. Place at least on downhill wheels.
- Basic socket set (ratchet, extensions, metric and SAE sockets): for loosening/tightening nuts and bolts on clamps, hangers, and flanges. Use the correct-size socket to avoid rounding fasteners. Use a breaker bar or longer ratchet handle for stubborn bolts.
- Combination wrenches: for bolts where a socket won’t fit. Match the wrench size to the nut head and pull toward you with steady force.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil): soak rusted bolts and clamps liberally and wait 10–30 minutes before attempting to loosen. Reapply and tap the bolt to help the oil penetrate.
- Wire brush: cleans rust and carbon from pipe ends and flanges so clamps or new parts seal better.
- Pry bar / large flat-blade screwdriver: to pry exhaust hangers off rubber mounts and to help separate flanged joints.
- Hammer / rubber mallet: to tap stuck sections free or seat a muffler in place. Use a rubber mallet to avoid damage; use hammer with care.
- Hacksaw or reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blade: to cut rusted exhaust pipe if clamps/bolts won’t release. Use steady controlled cuts; protect nearby wiring and fuel lines. Recip saw is faster and easier on your back.
- Exhaust hanger pliers (optional but very helpful): specialized pliers to stretch and remove rubber hangers without damage. If you don’t have them, use a pry bar and a cloth-wrapped screwdriver.
- Vise grips / locking pliers: clamp onto bolts or pipe to hold while you work or to help twist off rounded bolts.
- Torque wrench (optional): to tighten flange or clamp bolts to a specified torque if replacement parts list that. For clamps, snug until no leaks; over-tightening crushes pipe.
- Protective respirator mask (if cutting): prevents inhalation of rust/metal dust.
- Shop light or flashlight: to see under the vehicle.
- Extra tools you may need and why
- New exhaust clamps or U-bolt clamps: rusted clamps often need replacement; clamps seal the connection if pipes are in good shape.
- Welding machine and welding skills (optional): required if pipe ends are badly corroded and you choose a welded repair or the replacement muffler is welded on rather than clamped. Welding gives the most permanent seal but requires skill or a pro shop.
- Exhaust pipe expander or adapter sleeves (optional): used if pipe sizes don’t match exactly between parts.
- New hanger rubber mounts: old rubber often splits; replacement prevents rattles and sagging.
- Torque wrench (if following OEM torque specs for flanges).
- Parts you may need and why
- Replacement muffler (direct-fit or universal): required if muffler has holes, internal collapse, heavy rust, or is causing loud noise. Direct-fit mufflers are made for the Jeep TJ years and bolt/clamp onto the factory pipe/hangers for easier install. Universal mufflers can work if you can cut and clamp/weld to fit.
- Exhaust clamps (correct diameter): needed if original clamps are rusted or if using a clamp-on muffler. Buy clamps sized to your pipe diameter.
- Exhaust flange gasket and new bolts/nuts (if flange joint exists): replace gaskets and heavily corroded hardware to prevent leaks.
- Tailpipe or mid-pipe section (if rusted/fit problem): sometimes the pipe adjacent to the muffler is too corroded to reuse; replacing the section ensures a good seal and proper hanger alignment.
- Exhaust hanger mounts: replace if rubber is cracked or missing.
- Anti-seize compound: prevents bolts from seizing at reassembly.
- How to decide if replacement is required
- Visual holes, severe rust-through, collapsed internals, loud/drone noise, or exhaust leaks at the muffler = replace muffler.
- If only a small hole or loose clamp and pipes are in good condition, a clamp-on repair or patch might be temporary, but replacement is recommended for longevity.
- If bolts, flanges, or adjacent pipe are too corroded to reuse, replace those sections too.
- Preparation before starting
- Let the exhaust fully cool.
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, engage parking brake.
- Spray penetrating oil on clamps, bolts, and hangers and let sit 10–30 minutes.
- Gather replacement muffler and matching clamps, gaskets, and hangers. Measure inlet/outlet pipe diameters and hanger locations on the old muffler before buying.
- Removal steps (for a typical clamp-on muffler)
- Loosen clamp nuts at muffler inlet and outlet using the correct socket or wrench; use breaker bar if stuck after penetrating oil.
- If flange bolts, loosen and remove; replace gasket when reassembling.
- Remove or pry rubber hanger mounts off using hanger pliers or pry bar; support muffler while doing this to prevent falling.
- If clamp/bolts are seized, cut the pipe or clamp with a reciprocating saw or hacksaw — cut so you can slide the old muffler off and leave pipe ends clean for new clamp.
- Clean the mating pipe ends with brush and file/sandpaper to remove heavy rust and create a smooth fit.
- Installation steps
- Test-fit the new muffler: slide it onto the inlet pipe and align hangers to rubber mounts. Measure and adjust so tailpipe exits correctly without touching body parts.
- If pipe diameters don’t match, use adapter sleeve or have shop weld a proper joint.
- Mount muffler on rubber hangers first, then tighten clamps. Tighten clamps evenly until snug; don’t crush pipe. If flange/gasket used, install new gasket and tighten bolts evenly to manufacturer torque if specified.
- If you cut existing pipe, ensure exposed edges are deburred and clean for a good seal.
- Check alignment so the muffler and tailpipe do not contact the body, suspension, or fuel lines.
- Lower the Jeep off jack stands slowly and re-check for exhaust movement under load (start engine, listen for leaks, check visually for vibrations or contact).
- After a short drive, retorque clamps if needed.
- How to use the bigger/critical tools safely and effectively
- Penetrating oil: spray generously on threads and let soak; tap the bolt head with a hammer to help the oil penetrate. Reapply if needed.
- Breaker bar: attach socket and pull steady, firm force. If it pops loose, be ready to control it.
- Reciprocating saw: secure blade, check clearance, cut slowly using steady strokes. Wear gloves, mask, and eye protection. Keep sparks away from fuel lines and plastic.
- Jack and jack stands: lift only at recommended points, set stands solidly, lower jack until vehicle rests on stands, give vehicle a push to verify stability.
- Exhaust hanger pliers: squeeze and pull the hanger off; use the pliers to rotate and remove rubber bushing with minimal strain.
- Welding (if used): have an experienced welder do the job unless you are trained; welding exhaust requires proper shielding and technique.
- Common problems and quick fixes
- Seized clamp/bolt: apply penetrating oil, heat with a torch if available (careful), use breaker bar, or cut the clamp with a saw.
- Hangers stuck: spray with silicone or penetrating oil, use hanger pliers or pry with a screwdriver wrapped with cloth to avoid tearing rubber.
- Mismatched pipe diameter: use adapter or have a shop weld a sleeve to adapt sizes.
- Parts selection tips
- Measure the inlet/outlet diameters and the distance between hanger mounts on the old muffler before buying.
- Choose direct-fit muffler for easiest install by year and engine (search “Jeep Wrangler TJ muffler [year]” or use your VIN at parts sites).
- Aftermarket brands: MagnaFlow, Flowmaster, and Bosal make replacements; OEM is fine if you want stock sound/fit.
- If unsure, bring the old muffler or measurements to the parts store.
- Final checks
- Start engine and check for exhaust leaks (listen for hissing/popping at joints).
- Inspect for rattles or contact while idling and during a slow drive.
- Recheck clamp tightness after first heat cycle/cool-down and again after a short drive.
- When to get professional help
- If bolts are welded, frame hanger points are damaged, pipes require complex welding, or you don’t have safe lifting/support gear — take it to a muffler shop. Welding and custom fitment are best done by pros.
- Quick summary of parts you will likely need to buy
- Correct replacement muffler (direct-fit recommended)
- Exhaust clamps sized to your pipe
- Flange gasket and new bolts/nuts if flange exists
- Rubber hanger mounts if old ones are bad
- Penetrating oil and possibly a cutting blade if bolts are seized
No further questions. rteeqp73
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The NV3550 is a medium-duty, 5-speed, constant mesh, fully synchronized manual transmission. The transmission is available in two and four-wheel drive configurations.
The Automatic Transmission 42RLE is a four-speed transmission that is a conventional hydraulic/mechanical assembly controlled with adaptive electronic controls and monitors.