Ordered procedure (theory + how the repair fixes the fault). Be concise.

Preparation and theory (why it matters)
- Suspension geometry = caster, camber, toe, thrust angle (and ride height). These determine tire contact patch, steering feel, directional stability and tire wear.
- Fault symptoms map to geometry: excess toe -> feathered/inner/outer wear and wander; negative camber -> inner wear and pull; wrong caster -> poor return-to-center and high-speed instability; wrong thrust angle/rear toe -> car tracks off-center or pulls; incorrect ride height or bad bushings change caster/camber under load and make adjustments drift.
- Tools: alignment rack or level surface with turn plates, steering wheel centering tool, accurate toe/camber gauges or digital alignment machine. Many WH/WK adjustments require eccentric bolts or aftermarket adjustable links — if components are worn/non-adjustable they must be replaced/converted.

Step 1 — Preliminary inspection and service (repair fixes root causes)
- Inspect/replace worn parts first: ball joints, tie-rod ends, control-arm bushings, sway-bar links, wheel bearings, shocks/struts, tires (rotate/replace if uneven).
- Why: worn components allow uncontrolled movement, so adjustments won’t hold and symptoms persist. Replacing restores fixed geometry and predictable pivot points.

Step 2 — Set vehicle baseline and ride height
- Ensure correct tire size and pressures, full fluids, fuel approximating typical load, and wheels torqued to spec. Measure ride height at manufacturer points.
- Why: caster/camber are ride-height dependent. If springs sag or load is abnormal, geometry will be wrong even with correct alignment.

Step 3 — Center the steering
- Put the steering wheel centered (measure wheel straight ahead); lock it in that position on the alignment machine.
- Why: all subsequent measurements reference the steering wheel center; if off, vehicle will track off-center even with correct toe/camber.

Step 4 — Measure current geometry
- Record front and rear camber, caster, toe and thrust angle. Note any asymmetry between left and right.
- Why: diagnosis step — tells you which values are out of spec and which components to change/adjust.

Step 5 — Front toe adjustment (usually first active adjustment)
- Theory: Toe determines steering response and tire wear. Total toe is what matters; toe-in increases straight-line stability, toe-out improves turn-in responsiveness.
- Adjustment method (WH/WK): toe is adjusted at the tie-rod ends (inner or outer tie rod) by turning the tie-rod to lengthen/shorten. On rack-and-pinion, adjust both sides equally to preserve center.
- How repair fixes fault: If vehicle wanders or tires show feathering, correcting toe returns even contact wear and stabilizes directional control. Replacing bent or worn tie-rods eliminates free play that causes wandering.

Step 6 — Front camber and caster (set after or concurrently with toe)
- Theory: Camber tilts the wheel in/out; affects cornering grip and inner/outer wear. Caster tilts the steering axis fore/aft; affects self-centering and high-speed stability. Both work together: changing one can alter the other.
- Adjustment method (WH/WK specifics): depending on production configuration, camber/caster are adjusted via eccentric bolts or adjustable upper/lower control arms. Some WH/WK models have limited factory adjustability and may require replacement of an adjustable arm or use of an aftermarket camber/caster kit.
- How repair fixes fault: If a wheel is visibly tilted or car pulls to one side, adjusting camber/caster (or replacing worn control arms/bushings) restores proper tire contact and steering return. Replacing bent control arms or installing adjustable arms corrects static offsets caused by impacts or sagged bushings.

Step 7 — Rear toe and thrust angle / rear camber
- Theory: Rear toe and thrust angle set where the rear axle is aimed relative to the vehicle centerline. If rear toe or thrust is off, the vehicle will track off-center or feel unstable.
- Adjustment method (WH/WK specifics): rear toe/camber often adjusted via eccentric bolts at control-arm mounting points or adjustable toe links. Thrust angle is corrected by aligning rear toe so rear wheels point parallel and the thrust aligns with vehicle centerline.
- How repair fixes fault: Correcting rear toe/thrust removes rear-induced pulling and improves straight-line tracking. Replacing worn rear bushings or bent links removes uncontrolled lateral movement.

Step 8 — Iteration and lock-down
- Re-check front toe after camber/caster changes (and re-center steering if necessary). Adjust until within specs.
- Torque all jam nuts/bolts to spec and replace locking hardware if required.
- Why: adjustments interact; iterative re-checking ensures stability. Proper torque prevents drift.

Step 9 — Road test and final verification
- Drive at various speeds and perform lane-change maneuvers. Re-measure alignment after road test and tweak if necessary.
- Why: under load and dynamic conditions small issues reveal themselves; final check ensures repairs fixed the fault.

Common fault-to-repair mappings (quick)
- Feathered/inner edge wear -> excessive toe or negative camber. Fix: correct toe; check camber; replace worn bushings/arms.
- Pull to one side -> asymmetrical camber/caster or thrust angle. Fix: adjust camber/caster, correct thrust by rear toe or replace bent arm/track rod.
- Wandering/poor straight-line stability -> excessive toe-out or worn tie-rod ends/steering components. Fix: set proper toe, replace worn steering parts.
- Shimmy or vibration -> uneven tire wear, bent wheel, loose wheel bearings, or incorrect toe. Fix: correct alignment, replace wheel/bearing as needed.
- Steering not returning -> insufficient caster (or excessive play). Fix: increase caster (via adjustable arm or caster kit) or replace worn pivot points.

Notes specific to Grand Cherokee WH/WK (practical realities)
- Many WH/WK front camber/caster adjustments are limited by factory geometry; often you’ll need eccentric bolts or aftermarket adjustable control arms to get full spec if the vehicle is out due to bent parts or lowered/lifted ride height.
- Always replace worn bushings/ball joints before alignment; they are the most common reason adjustments don’t hold.
- After any collision or hitting a curb, check for bent arms/knuckles — mechanical deformation is the cause, not alignment alone.

Summary (in order)
1. Inspect and replace worn suspension/steering parts.
2. Set correct ride height and tire pressures.
3. Center steering wheel.
4. Measure baseline alignment.
5. Adjust front toe (tie-rods) — stabilize steering/wear.
6. Adjust front camber/caster (eccentrics/adjustable arms) — restore steering return and correct tilt-induced wear.
7. Adjust rear toe and thrust angle (eccentrics/links) — center vehicle tracking.
8. Re-check and torque fasteners; iterate toe after camber/caster.
9. Road test and final verification.

End.
rteeqp73

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