Tools & consumables
- Floor jack (capacity ≥2 ton) and quality axle stands (2) or jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Breaker bar, sockets & ratchet set (metric/imperial as required)
- Torque wrench (suitable range)
- Hammer, brass/nylon drift, cold chisel
- Punch set (drifts) and pin punch
- Ball-peen hammer
- Kingpin/steering spindle puller or hydraulic press with appropriate adapters
- Bearing puller / hub puller
- Arbor press or hydraulic press (for bushings)
- Reamer set for kingpin bushings (matched to new bushing ID) or kingpin broach tool
- Bushing driver set / bearing driver
- Snap‑ring pliers (if applicable)
- Wire brush, shop rags, solvent/degreaser
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Grease gun and high‑quality wheel/steering grease
- New cotter pins, nuts/washers (recommended), sealant if needed
- Replacement parts: steering knuckle/spindle (if cracked), kingpins, kingpin bushings (bronze/replaceable shells), tapered roller bearings & races (if hub bearings are integrated), grease seals, cotter pins, spindle nuts, hub bearings (as required)
- Safety gear: safety glasses, gloves, steel‑toe boots

Safety precautions
- Work on a firm, level surface. Chock rear wheels. Lower any attached implements to the ground.
- Block the tractor so it cannot roll. Disconnect battery if working near electrical/starting components or if you’ll be under the tractor.
- Use properly rated jack stands under the frame — never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear eye protection; keep hands clear when using presses or pullers.
- If heating parts to free them, do so with caution and ventilate.

Overview of the repair
- The TE‑20 front spindle/knuckle uses kingpins and bushings (or replaceable bearings) that wear, causing play or binding. Repair options: replace worn kingpin bushings and seals, replace kingpins, or replace the entire knuckle/spindle if cracked or excessively worn.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Preparation and initial inspection
- Park tractor on level ground, chock rear wheels, lower implements. Jack front of tractor at the front axle housing or recommended jacking point. Place jack stands under the frame on both sides.
- Remove wheel: loosen lug nuts, raise, then remove wheel(s) and set aside.
- Clean area around hub, spindle, knuckle. Spray penetrating oil on exposed fasteners, kingpin bosses and around seals. Let soak as needed.

2) Remove hub/drum and brakes
- Remove hub nut/cotter pin and pull hub off the spindle. Use hub puller if necessary. Keep track of bearings & races orientation and condition.
- Remove brake drum or backing plate components to expose the knuckle/kingpin area. Note any snap rings or retaining hardware.

3) Access kingpin/knuckle
- Support the lower arm or axle assembly to prevent droop when you remove the knuckle components.
- Remove any grease fittings, seals, linings, dust caps. If the knuckle is retained by top and bottom clamps or plates, remove the clamp bolts/nuts.

4) Remove kingpin(s)
- Use penetrating oil on kingpin ends. Use a kingpin puller or hydraulic press to push the kingpin out from top to bottom (or as designed on the TE‑20). If using a press: position adapters so you press on the kingpin head and support the knuckle properly. If using a hammer/drift as last resort, drive out carefully with a punch from the non‑flared end — avoid mushrooming the pin.
- Remove worn bushings as the kingpin comes out. Note orientation of bushings (top/bottom shoulder faces).
- If knuckle is to be replaced, fully remove kingpins and detach knuckle per OEM procedure (usually unbolt clamps/plates).

How the puller/press is used
- Kingpin puller: bolt puller onto knuckle housing, align forcing screw with kingpin, tighten slowly to extract pin. Support knuckle so it cannot bend. Use lubricant.
- Hydraulic press: place knuckle on press bed with receiving cup for pin. Use a drift/sleeve to press on kingpin only; press slowly and keep everything aligned to avoid bending.

5) Inspect parts
- Inspect kingpin for straightness and pitting. Replace if scored or worn.
- Inspect knuckle bosses and bushing bores for ovality or damage. Measure bore diameter; if out of spec, you must rebush or replace knuckle.
- Inspect hub bearings, races, seals — replace worn bearings and races; do not reuse damaged races.

6) Recondition or replace bushings
- If bushings are replaceable: press out old bushings with arbor press or reamer driver. Clean bores thoroughly.
- Press in new bronze bushings squarely with arbor press and driver sized to bushing OD. Apply light oil or assembly paste per bushing instructions.
- After installing new bushings, use the correct reamer to size the bushing ID to the kingpin OD. Ream in multiple light passes; keep the reamer aligned and lubricated. Remove chips and clean thoroughly.
- If using OEM oversize bushings, follow bushing manufacturer specs for finish, lubrication groove, and clearance.

7) Replace kingpin and seals
- Fit new kingpins (or cleaned originals if serviceable). Coat with assembly lubricant.
- Install new seals/grease seals and dust caps as needed.
- If kingpins use tapered fit or a specified interference, install per service manual.

8) Reassemble hub, bearings and brakes
- Reinstall hub bearings and races in correct orientation. Pack bearings with grease (or use prepacked bearings).
- Slide hub over spindle and set bearing preload per procedure: typically tighten spindle nut until bearing is preloaded (rear hub) then back off as specified and secure with washer and castle nut and cotter pin. If you don’t have exact torque, set preload by hand/feel: tighten until no play and wheel turns freely, then secure.
- Reinstall brake drum/backing plate and linkage, adjust brakes.

9) Final tightening, lubrication and checks
- Torque any knuckle clamp bolts, spindle nuts and wheel lug nuts to OEM specs. If you lack the manual, tighten to a safe secure level but verify with service manual as soon as possible.
- Grease kingpins/grease fittings until fresh grease shows at seals.
- Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Lower tractor, roll forward/backward and recheck all fasteners for tightness.

10) Road/test check and alignment
- With tractor on level ground, check steering play, toe‑in and wheel alignment. Adjust tie rod length to eliminate excessive play and ensure straight tracking.
- Test drive slowly, listening for knocks, checking brakes, and re‑inspect fasteners after initial hours of operation.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using a jack alone: always use stands. Failure can crush you.
- Driving kingpins out with uncontrolled hammer blows: this can crack knuckle or mushroom pin — use a press/puller.
- Pressing bushings in crooked: always use a driver that bears on the bushing OD and press squarely; crooked installation ruins the bore.
- Reaming too deep or off‑angle: heat, galling, and premature wear result. Ream in light passes, keep tool aligned, remove chips.
- Reusing old seals/bearings: leads to leaks and premature failure — replace seals and any bearing showing wear or pitting.
- Over‑torquing spindle/hub nut: can destroy bearings; under‑torquing leads to play. When unsure, set bearing preload by rotation and axial play method, then secure with cotter pin.
- Reusing cotter pins or castle nuts: replace cotter pins; use new hardware where integrity is critical.

When to replace the entire knuckle
- Visible cracks, bends, gouges or irreparable bore damage.
- If reaming/bushing cannot restore correct alignment/clearance.
- Replacement knuckle/spindle ensures correct steering geometry when wear is excessive.

Notes on parts and sourcing
- Use OEM or high‑quality aftermarket kingpins and bronze bushings made for agricultural steering loads.
- Replace seals, bearings and cotter pins with new parts. Replace castle nuts if threads or slot integrity is compromised.
- Have a service manual for the exact TE‑20 variant for torque specs, bearing numbers and any model‑specific steps.

Post‑repair checklist
- Torque check all fasteners to spec.
- Grease all fittings; wipe excess.
- Verify wheel bearings rotate smoothly with no axial play.
- Road test at low speed; recheck for noise, play, leaks.
- Reinspect after 5–10 hours of operation and re‑torque as required.

End.
rteeqp73

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