Short, ordered explanation with theory and what each action fixes.

Preparation — Parts, tools, safety (theory)
- Parts: new upper/lower spring seats (isolators), dust boot, strut mount/bearing if worn. Replace spring if cracked/deformed.
- Tools: jack + stands, wheel chocks, spring compressor rated for coil springs, basic hand tools, torque wrench, penetrating oil, shop rags.
- Safety theory: coil springs store large energy. Compressing only at the spring’s coils with a rated compressor and supporting the vehicle on stands prevents sudden release of energy that can cause injury or damage.

1) Diagnose and localize the fault (theory)
- Inspect for symptoms: clunking/knocking over bumps, spring noise (chirp/rub), uneven ride height, lateral movement in the strut, or visible rubber deterioration/corrosion where the spring seats.
- Theory: the spring seat (metal perch and rubber isolator) locates the spring axially and laterally and cushions metal-on-metal contact. When the isolator wears or the seat is corroded/deformed, the spring moves, contacts, or vibrates — causing noise and poor handling.

2) Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle (theory)
- Steps: support vehicle safely, remove wheel, unbolt sway bar link/strut-to-knuckle bolts and top strut mount nuts to free the strut.
- Theory: working off-vehicle gives access to the spring/seat assembly so you can safely relieve spring preload and replace the seat. Leaving the strut mounted risks improper compressing and reassembly.

3) Secure and compress the spring on the bench (theory)
- Mount strut in a soft vise or hold it securely, fit the spring compressor to opposite coils, compress until spring tension is relieved from the upper mount.
- Theory: compression removes preload so the upper seat/insulator can be removed without the spring forcibly expanding. Proper compression keeps spring inertia controlled so components can be safely separated.

4) Disassemble the strut and remove the old seat/insulator (theory)
- Remove the top nut, separate the mount, then lift off the old rubber isolator and metal seat. Inspect the spring ends, strut shaft (for damage), bearing, and mount.
- Theory: the isolator cushions and centers the spring on the perch; removing it reveals wear patterns and whether the spring or mount caused the failure. Corroded or flattened loci indicate loss of positive seating.

5) Clean and assess mating surfaces (theory)
- Clean perch faces, remove rust/scale, check for radial/depth damage. If the seat flange is corroded/warped beyond repair, replace the strut or seat component.
- Theory: a flat, clean seating surface is required for the isolator to form a stable interface. Rough or irregular surfaces allow the isolator to shear, the spring to shift, and noise to continue even after a new rubber part is installed.

6) Install new seat/isolator and related parts (theory)
- Fit the new rubber isolator to the metal seat, position the lower/upper seat correctly (note orientation/locating tabs), replace dust boot and bearing if required.
- Theory: the new isolator restores the intended spacing, preload cushion, and lateral locating. New dust boot prolongs damper life; a worn bearing allows rotational stiffness/creaks and should be renewed to prevent future noise.

7) Reassemble with correct pre-load and torque (theory)
- Reassemble, compress to factory spring length while aligning spring ends to perch pockets/tabs, tighten top nut to specified torque, then slowly decompress until the spring seats.
- Theory: correct preload and alignment ensure the spring bears as designed — vertical load carried by the spring, lateral loads managed by mounts and perches. Over- or under-compressing changes ride height and spring rate behavior; misalignment leaves the spring prone to shift and noise.

8) Reinstall strut and final checks (theory)
- Refit strut to vehicle, torque fasteners to factory specs, reconnect sway bar link, drop vehicle and torque wheel nuts, test drive for noise and handling. Do a wheel alignment.
- Theory: proper torque keeps suspension geometry stable. Alignment is required because removing/installing struts can alter camber/toe. The repair fixes the original faults by restoring correct spring location, eliminating metal-on-metal contact, and providing the intended damping and lateral restraint.

How the repair fixes the fault — succinctly
- Restores a stable seating interface so the spring is centered and cannot rub or shift.
- Replaces degraded rubber that previously transmitted impact/thermal/vibration noise.
- Reestablishes designed spring preload and geometry so ride height, handling, and damper performance return to spec.
- If bearings/damper are replaced, it removes rotational binding and leaks that otherwise amplify noise and accelerate wear.

Quick checks after repair (theory)
- Visual: spring ends seated in pockets, isolator fully seated, no gaps.
- Functional: no clunking over bumps, steering feel normal, ride height matches spec.
- Maintenance: if the strut shows oil leakage, replace the damper—replacing the seat alone will not fix dampers.

Done.
rteeqp73

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