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Massey Ferguson MF230 MF235 MF240 MF245 MF250 tractor factory workshop and repair manual download
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Massey Ferguson MF230 MF235 MF240 MF245 MF250 Tractor factory workshop and repair manualon PDF can be viewed using free PDF reader like adobe , or foxit or nitro . File size 30 Mb PDF document with bookmarks. The PDF manual covers Brakes covers the Perkins AD 3.152 Diesel and Continental Z-145 petrol/Gasoline engines About the Massey Ferguson 200 series
Massey Ferguson Limited is a major agricultural equipment company which was based in Canada, Ontario, Brantford before it was purchased by AGCO. The company was formed by a merger between Massey Harris and the Ferguson business farm machinery producer in 1953, creating the company Massey Harris Ferguson. However, in 1958 the name was shortened for the first time to coin the brand Massey Ferguson. Today the company exists as a brand name utilized by AGCO and remains a major dealer around the world The firm was founded in 1847 in Ontario, Newcastle by Daniel Massey as the Newcastle Foundry and Machine Manufactory. The business started creating some of the world's starting mechanical threshers, first by assembling parts from the United States and eventually designing and building their own equipment. The firm was taken over and expanded by Daniel's eldest son Hart Massey who renamed it the Massey Manufacturing Co. and in 1879 moved the business to Toronto where it soon became one of the city's leading employers. The massive collection of factories, consisting of a 4.4 hectares (11 acres) site with plant and head office at 915 King Street West, became one of the best known features of the city. Massey expanded the company and began to sell its products internationally. Through extensive advertising campaigns he made it one of the most well known brands in Canada. The firm owed much of its success to Canadian tariffs that prevented the bigger US companies from competing in Canada. A labor shortage throughout the country also helped to make the firm's mechanized equipment very attractive. Massey Ferguson developed a wide range of agricultural vehicles and have a large share in the market across the world especially in Europe. The company's first mass-produced tractor was the Massey Harris Ferguson TVO which was quickly replaced by the Diesel 20. In 1958 the MF35, the starting Massey Ferguson branded tractor (a Ferguson design) rolled off the factory floor. These tractors were massively popular and sold across the UK, Australia, Ireland and the United States. From the mid-1970s and early 1980s came the 200 series tractor, which included the MF 230, 235, 240, 245, 250, 255, 260, 265, 270, 275, 278, 280, 285, 290, 298, 299. Massey Ferguson MF230 MF235 MF240 MF245 MF250 Tractor factory workshop and repair manual |
- Park tractor on level ground, engage parking brake, put transmission in neutral (or park if automatic), and shut off engine.
- Remove key and disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental starting while you work.
- Let the engine cool completely if it has been running — vacuum hoses often run near the intake/exhaust and can be hot.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect against dirt, sharp edges and fluids.
- What “vacuum hose” typically means on MF230/235/240/245/250 tractors
- On these Massey Ferguson 200‑series tractors, vacuum hoses are usually the small rubber or silicone lines that carry vacuum from the intake manifold or from a vacuum pump to devices such as brake boosters, vacuum gauges, vacuum actuators, or check valves.
- Symptoms you’re fixing: cracked, hardened, split or leaking hose; loss of vacuum‑operated function (weaker brakes if booster present, actuators not moving, low vacuum readings).
- Tools you will need (each tool described and how to use it)
- Safety glasses
- Protects eyes from debris; always wear while working under cowling or near fuel/power components.
- Nitrile or work gloves
- Protect hands from grease, cuts and hot parts; use disposable gloves for cleaner handling of new hose.
- Flat‑head screwdriver (stubby and/or regular)
- Used to open worm‑drive hose clamps and pry stubborn hose off a barb. Use a long screwdriver for reach, stubby for tight spaces. Turn clockwise to tighten worm clamps, counterclockwise to loosen.
- Phillips screwdriver
- Some clamps and covers use Phillips screws; same usage as above.
- Slip‑joint pliers / channel‑lock pliers
- Good for removing spring‑type clamps by squeezing and sliding them off the hose. Also helpful for pulling old hose off stubborn barbs.
- Small hose pick / awl / flat dental pick
- Thin hooked tool to get under the hose bead and help break seal without cutting or tearing mounting points. Use gently to avoid gouging fittings.
- Utility knife or sharp scissors
- Trim old hose or cut new hose to length. Score and cut straight. Use a new blade for a clean cut to prevent leaks.
- Tape measure or ruler and calipers (digital caliper preferred)
- Measure inner diameter (ID) of old hose or barb so you buy the correct size replacement. Caliper gives an accurate ID measurement.
- Replacement vacuum hose (vacuum‑rated rubber or silicone)
- Buy vacuum-rated hose (often called VAC hose, silicone vacuum hose, or small bore vacuum tubing). Choose a hose with the same inner diameter and with good heat/ozone resistance. Silicone is more durable than cheap rubber.
- Hose clamps (small worm‑drive clamps or spring clamps)
- Use stainless worm clamps for a secure fit or spring clamps for flexibility. Choose clamps sized for the hose OD; use at least one clamp on each connection where the factory used them.
- Hand vacuum pump / vacuum tester (recommended)
- A handheld vacuum pump with gauge lets you test the hose and components off the tractor. Connect to the hose or component and pump to see if vacuum holds; builds confidence you fixed the leak.
- Soapy water spray bottle
- Spray connections and hose routing to spot bubbles while engine is running to find leaks (use cautiously and only after safe startup testing).
- Rags and cleaning solvent (degreaser)
- Clean barb fittings and surrounding area before installing new hose so the hose seats properly.
- Flashlight or work light
- Illuminates tight or dark areas where hoses run.
- (Optional) Heat shield sleeve or spiral wrap
- Protects new hose where it passes near exhaust or hot surfaces.
- (Optional) Replacement check valve or vacuum fitting
- If the tractor uses check valves in the vacuum line and they are cracked or stuck you’ll need to replace them. Check valve is usually a small one‑way plastic or metal valve in the vacuum line.
- Why these tools are required
- Screwdrivers and pliers remove and install clamps and loosen hoses.
- Picks let you separate hose from barbs without cutting the barb or the hose port.
- Knife/scissors trim hose to exact length and create a clean end for a tight seal.
- Calipers/ruler ensure you buy the correct ID hose so it seals on the barb.
- Vacuum tester confirms the repair restored vacuum and helps diagnose if the hose is not the only problem.
- Soapy water helps locate small leaks that are otherwise invisible.
- Heat protection is necessary because vacuum hose near exhaust/manifold will fail quickly if not shielded.
- How to locate and identify the vacuum hose on these tractors
- Visually trace from the component that is failing (brake booster/vacuum actuator/vacuum gauge) back to the intake manifold or vacuum pump.
- Vacuum hoses are usually small diameter (1/8" to 1/4" nominal ID range – measure to confirm) and often black rubber or silicone. Check for splits, cracks, soft spots, or hardened areas.
- Follow the hose along its routing so you can replicate or improve the routing when you fit new hose (avoid contact with exhaust or fan belts).
- Step‑by‑step replacement procedure (bulleted)
- Prepare: gather tools, replacement hose, clamps, and PPE. Park and secure tractor, disconnect battery, cool engine.
- Inspect and measure: examine the old hose and measure its inner diameter and length. Note any fittings, tees, or check valves to replace.
- Test (optional but useful): attach a handheld vacuum pump to the suspected hose/component and pull vacuum to see if vacuum holds; if it doesn’t, the hose or component leaks.
- Remove old hose:
- Use pliers or screwdriver to loosen clamps.
- Use a pick to break the bead at the fitting and gently twist/pull the hose off. If stuck, cut the hose lengthwise and remove pieces carefully to avoid damaging the barb.
- Inspect barbs/fittings for corrosion, cracks or sharp edges.
- Clean fittings: wipe barbs with a rag and solvent so the new hose seals cleanly.
- Cut and fit new hose:
- Cut replacement hose to the measured length with a fresh blade for a clean cut.
- Dry‑fit the hose over the barb — it should slide on with a firm push but not be loose.
- If routing crosses hot surfaces, add heat sleeve or move the route away if possible.
- Secure with clamps:
- Fit spring or worm clamp over the hose end and position it behind the barb ridge. Tighten worm clamp until snug — do not overtighten to the point of cutting the hose. Spring clamps should be fully seated.
- Reinstall any check valves or fittings in correct orientation (check valves are one‑way — install the arrow toward the vacuum source or as original).
- Test for leaks off the tractor with a handheld vacuum pump if available; ensure vacuum holds.
- Reconnect battery, start the engine, and test the vacuum function (brake feel, actuator movement, vacuum gauge reading).
- Use soapy water on connections (with engine running briefly, using caution) to find bubbles showing leaks — fix as needed.
- Final check: ensure hose is routed away from moving parts and heat; secure with zip ties or clamps as needed.
- How to use the handheld vacuum pump/tester (brief)
- Attach the tester hose to the hose or fitting being tested using the correct adapter.
- Pump the handle to build vacuum and watch the gauge. A good hose/component will hold vacuum without dropping rapidly.
- If vacuum bleeds off, isolate sections by blocking off branches to find the leak. Replace the leaking section.
- When part replacement beyond hose is required and why
- Replace hose when cracked, hardened, sticky, collapsed internally, or split — old rubber degrades and allows leaks.
- Replace clamps that are rusted, deformed, or too corroded to tighten properly — they won’t seal reliably.
- Replace check valves that are stuck open/closed or cracked — a failed one‑way valve destroys vacuum control and will let vacuum bleed off.
- Replace vacuum pump (if fitted) if you cannot obtain vacuum at the source and the pump fails a vacuum test — symptoms include no vacuum at components, large leaks not fixed by hose replacement, or the pump making abnormal noise or leaking oil. Vacuum pump is a mechanical part and must match the tractor’s original specification.
- Replace any cracked or corroded manifold or plastic fitting that won’t seal — a hose won’t fix a damaged barb.
- What replacement parts to buy
- Vacuum hose: vacuum‑rated rubber or silicone hose with the same inner diameter as the original and rated for heat/ozone exposure.
- Hose clamps: stainless steel worm‑drive clamps sized for the hose OD or appropriate spring clamps.
- Check valve(s): OEM style or universal vacuum check valves sized for your hose diameter (one‑way valve).
- Vacuum pump: OEM or compatible replacement for your specific MF model if the pump is faulty — source by tractor part number or VIN; if unsure, consult parts manual or local dealer.
- Heat sleeve/spiral wrap: if routing near hot components.
- Practical tips and cautions (short)
- Don’t use fuel line or any non‑vacuum rated hose; fuel hose may be thicker or incompatible and may collapse under vacuum.
- Silicone vacuum hose is more flexible and lasts longer in heat and ozone than generic rubber.
- Avoid kinking the hose — maintain smooth bends with a generous radius.
- If in doubt about the correct vacuum pump or check valve, match part numbers from your tractor’s parts manual or purchase from a reputable supplier.
- Keep replacement hoses and clamps on hand — they are inexpensive and commonly needed on older tractors.
- Final verification
- After replacement and start, verify the device that uses vacuum operates normally (brake feel if applicable, actuator movement).
- Perform a short functional test under load (carefully) to ensure no leaks under operating conditions.
No unnecessary extra talk — follow these steps, use the listed tools as described, replace any badly degraded hoses/clamps/check valves, and test with a handheld vacuum pump to confirm the repair.
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