Safety first: work on a cold vehicle on level ground, use jack stands, wheel chocks, eye and hand protection, and a proper fluid catch. Dispose of used ATF legally.

Scope: replacing the automatic transmission sump (pan) filter on a Nissan with the YD22DDTi engine (typical Navara/D22 platforms). This covers theory and ordered procedure with why each action matters and how the repair cures transmission faults.

Why the filter matters — theory
- Function: the transmission filter (paper/mesh element) and pan magnet remove particulates and protect valvebody passages and clutches. The pump pulls fluid through the filter to build hydraulic pressure for shift control.
- Failure modes: the filter/clogging restricts flow, lowering line pressure and causing slow, harsh or slipping shifts, overheating, clutch wear, or loss of forward/reverse. Contaminants (metal, friction material) accelerate wear and can score valvebody bores.
- Effect of replacement: a new filter restores unrestricted fluid flow and proper pressure, removes trapped debris, and—when combined with a pan clean and fresh ATF—improves cooling, hydraulic operation and longevity. If large metal debris is present the underlying mechanical damage must be addressed; filter replacement may only be temporary.

Parts, fluids and tools (minimum)
- OE or equivalent transmission filter kit (filter + pan gasket/seal; some kits include bolts)
- Correct ATF (use Nissan-specified ATF — check service manual for Matic type for your model/year)
- Drain pan, funnel, clean rags, brake cleaner or solvent, gasket scraper or plastic blade
- Torque wrench, socket set, ratchet, extension, screwdriver, jack and stands (or hoist)
- Gloves and safety glasses

Ordered procedure with theory (each step: what + why)
1) Warm up engine/transmission to normal operating temperature, then shut off.
- Theory: warm fluid flows and drains more completely and dislodges trapped particles; also represents operating condition when diagnosing pressure-related faults.

2) Secure vehicle on stands and chock wheels; set parking brake and isolate battery if needed.
- Why: safety. Also prevents accidental engine start or movement while under vehicle.

3) Place a large drain pan under the transmission pan; loosen and slightly break a corner bolt if you plan to reuse the gasket.
- Theory: transmission fluid will spill when pan is removed; controlled draining prevents contamination and loss. Breaking a bolt relieves initial torque and avoids a sudden spill.

4) Remove pan bolts progressively, leaving one corner bolt hand-tight until most fluid has drained; then remove all bolts and lower the pan.
- Theory: gradual removal prevents a sudden dump of hot fluid and allows you to observe fluid color and metal debris distribution. The pan often contains a magnet with captured metallic particles — inspect this for type/amount of metal to infer internal wear.

5) Inspect and clean the pan and magnet.
- What: remove sludge, ferrous debris from magnet, and old gasket material; inspect for heavy scoring, large chips, or chunks of friction material.
- Theory: cleaning removes abrasive contaminants that would recirculate and harm valvebody and clutches. Large metal pieces indicate internal component failure (clutches, planetary gears).

6) Remove old filter (usually attached by bolts or bayonet) and inspect its inlet face and O-rings/seals.
- Theory: the filter element traps small particles. A clogged or collapsed filter shows restricted flow; inspection helps determine cause/severity.

7) Fit new filter and new pan gasket; use replacement bolts if supplied; replace filter O-rings/seals as required (use light film of ATF on seals).
- Theory: new filter restores intended flow path and filtration efficiency; fresh seal prevents leaks and maintains proper pan sealing to keep hydraulic system sealed.

8) Refit pan and progressively torque bolts in a crisscross pattern to specified torque.
- Theory: even seating prevents distortion and leaks. Proper torque avoids strip or crush issues. (Consult service manual for exact torque spec.)

9) Refill transmission with the correct ATF to the service fill level via dipstick tube or fill port; add the approximate amount equal to the fluid lost (pan drop typically removes 2–4 L; full change larger).
- Theory: fresh fluid restores viscosity and additive package that maintain clutch friction and cooling. Using the correct ATF chemistry is critical for friction characteristics and valvebody compatibility.

10) Start engine, let idle and cycle through all gears (selector through Park, R, N, D, etc.) with brakes applied; check for leaks and verify fluid level at operating temperature, adjusting to spec.
- Theory: cycling circulates fluid through filter and valvebody, purges air pockets, and brings the fluid to operating temperature so dipstick reading is accurate. Proper level is essential for correct pump pressure.

11) Road test and recheck for leaks and correct shift quality; inspect pan and magnet after 500–1000 km if possible.
- Theory: driving under load confirms restoration of hydraulic pressure and shift performance. Rechecking ensures no residual problems or newly developing leaks.

How the repair fixes common faults (concise)
- Slipping or delayed shifts: clogged filter reduces pump flow and line pressure; new filter restores flow and pressure, allowing proper clutch apply and timely shifts.
- Overheating/poor cooling: contaminated fluid and restricted flow reduce cooling; fresh fluid and unobstructed flow improve heat dissipation.
- Harsh or erratic shifts: debris in valvebody channels or low pressure due to filter restriction causes erratic hydraulic signals — cleaned pan/filter and fresh ATF reduce contamination and stabilize pressures.
- Short-term improvement vs underlying damage: if magnet/pan contains large metallic chunks or the filter is heavily loaded with metallic particles, clutch or gear damage likely exists. Filter replacement removes symptoms but not the root mechanical failure; further diagnosis (valvebody inspection, internal transmission overhaul) may be required.

Quick troubleshooting indicators during pan removal
- Dark, burnt-smelling fluid + heavy sludge: indicate overheated/oxidized fluid and likely clutch wear.
- Lots of fine metallic powder on magnet: wear but not necessarily catastrophic; monitor.
- Large flakes/chunks of metal: internal failure — do not expect filter replacement alone to fully fix.

Final notes (concise)
- Use Nissan-specified ATF and torque specs from the service manual.
- Replace filter and gasket together; do not reuse a damaged filter or gasket.
- If large metal debris present, plan for deeper inspection or rebuild — replacing the filter is a maintenance fix, not a cure for mechanical destruction.

No further questions as requested.
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