What you’re doing: replacing a coolant hose (or hoses) on a Nissan D22 (Frontier / Navara / Terrano / Hardbody). Below is a beginner‑friendly, step‑by‑step guide with the theory, parts descriptions, tools, safety, common failures and troubleshooting. Read all of it before you start. No questions asked.

Why this repair is needed (theory, simple):
- The engine produces heat. Coolant circulates through internal passages, the water pump, heater core and radiator to carry that heat away. Hoses are the flexible pipes that carry hot coolant between the radiator, engine, heater and water pump.
- Over time heat cycles, oil contamination, ozone and mechanical abrasion make rubber hoses soften, swell, crack, or split. A failed hose = leak = loss of coolant = overheating = possible engine damage.
- Analogy: hoses are like garden hoses on a sprinkler system. If a hose bursts, the lawn stops getting water; with your engine, a burst hose means the engine stops being cooled.

Main components (detailed descriptions)
- Radiator: big heat exchanger at the front. Coolant flows through thin tubes; air cools it. Has an inlet (top) and outlet (bottom).
- Radiator cap: keeps system pressurized to raise boiling point. On D22 many markets use a separate overflow/expansion tank cap instead of a cap directly on the radiator.
- Expansion/overflow tank (reservoir): stores extra coolant and makes topping up simple. Has a hose to the radiator neck or filler.
- Upper radiator hose: flexible hose from radiator top (or filler neck) to thermostat housing/water neck on the engine. Carries hot coolant away from the head toward the radiator.
- Lower radiator hose: flexible hose from bottom of radiator to the water pump inlet. Carries cooled coolant back into the engine.
- Thermostat & thermostat housing (water neck): thermostat sits between engine coolant passages and radiator hose. It stays closed when cold to help engine warm up quickly, opens as coolant reaches operating temp to allow flow to radiator.
- Water pump: driven by belt; physically pumps coolant through the system. Has inlet and outlet nipples where hoses connect.
- Bypass hose(s): small hose(s) that let coolant circulate locally when thermostat is closed. Prevents hot spots and helps thermostat sense temperature.
- Heater hoses: two hoses going through firewall to heater core. These supply and return coolant for cabin heat.
- Hose clamps: keep hose on the metal nipples. Types: spring (Oetiker style), worm‑drive (screw) clamps, or OEM crimp clamps. Use correct type and size.
- Hose nipples/fittings: molded metal or plastic nipples on radiator, water pump, heater control valve, thermostat housing. Plastic nipples are common and brittle with age.
- Temperature sensor(s): threaded into head or block, measure coolant temperature for gauges/ECU.
- Fan(s): electric or mechanical fans pull air through radiator; not a hose part, but related to cooling performance.

What can go wrong (common failure modes)
- External cracks, splits, or bulges in the hose from age/heat: lead to slow leaks or sudden bursts.
- Soft, mushy hose ends: indicates internal collapse/weakening and poor clamping surface.
- Hose rubbing/abrading on other parts causing holes.
- Clamp failure or incorrect clamp placement: hose slips off nipple.
- Plastic hose nipples crack: then hose will leak even with new clamp.
- Air trapped in system after refill: causes overheating and fluctuating temperature gauge.
- Using wrong coolant type or contaminated coolant: corrosion, heater core clogging.
- Over‑tightened worm clamp cuts into hose; under‑tightened lets it leak.
- Replacing only one hose while nearby hoses are old: nearby hose will fail soon.

Tools & supplies
- New hose(s): OEM part or good quality EPDM coolant hose. Replace the hose(s) that are damaged; if one is old, consider replacing the pair (upper & lower) or heater hoses too.
- Hose clamps: new OEM style spring clamps or stainless worm clamps of correct diameter.
- Coolant: correct type for Nissan D22 (check manual) — usually ethylene glycol based; dilute per label. Have enough for full refill.
- Drain pan for coolant (do not pour on ground).
- Hand tools: screwdrivers, pliers (regular and spring‑clamp pliers), socket set and ratchet, adjustable wrench.
- Utility knife or hose cutter (sharp), small flat pry bar or hose removal tool.
- Rags, gloves, eye protection, flashlight.
- Long‑nose pliers, pick tool for removing retaining clips.
- Optional: radiator pressure tester, funnel, jack & stands (if access under vehicle needed), penetrating oil for seized clamps.
- Replacement small parts if needed: radiator cap, thermostat, O‑rings, replacement plastic nipples or barb and clamp repair kits.

Safety first (must-dos)
- Only work on a cold engine. Hot coolant is pressurized and causes severe burns.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep pets and kids away; used coolant is toxic and sweet-smelling.
- Catch and properly dispose of old coolant — local regulations apply.
- Support vehicle securely if you lift it. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Be careful with pressurized overflow — open cap slowly after engine is cool.

Step‑by‑step replacement (typical for upper/lower/heater hose replacement)
1) Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, engine cold.
- Remove negative battery terminal if working near electrical components (optional).
- Place drain pan under radiator drain petcock or lower radiator hose area.
2) Drain coolant (partial or full)
- Open overflow cap (on cold engine) to allow air in. If radiator has a drain petcock, open it to drain into pan. If not, loosen lower hose clamp and remove lower hose to drain.
- Save or dispose of coolant properly.
3) Access & inspect
- Locate the hose you’re replacing (upper/lower/heater). Trace both ends to where they connect (radiator, thermostat housing, water pump, heater core).
- Note hose routing and any retaining clips—take photos for reference.
4) Remove clamps
- Use pliers for spring clamps (compress and slide toward middle of hose), or screwdriver/socket to loosen worm clamps.
- If clamps are corroded, cut them off with tin snips.
5) Remove the hose
- Twist the hose gently to break the seal, then pull off the fitting. If stubborn, use a flat screwdriver to gently pry — don’t gouge the metal/plastic nipple.
- If the hose is stuck, use penetrating oil and wait; a hose removal tool (plastic wedge) helps. As a last resort, carefully cut the hose lengthwise to remove it without damaging the nipple — slide a thin blade between nipple and hose and rotate to cut.
6) Inspect nipples & replace if needed
- Check for cracked plastic nipples or corroded metal. Replace radiator or water pump if nipple is broken; small plastic nipple repairs can sometimes be done with a brass barb and clamp (temporary).
- Clean the nipple surface so the new hose seats fully.
7) Fit new hose
- Slide new clamps onto hose before fitting (position clamps so you can tighten later).
- Lubricate the inside of hose ends with a little coolant or glycerin to ease assembly.
- Push hose fully onto nipple until it seats. For angled nipples, align properly to avoid kinks.
- Position clamp approx 5–10 mm behind the hose bead or raised lip on the nipple (not over the bead). For spring clamps, place them with the opening accessible for pliers; for worm clamps, position screw where you can access it.
8) Tighten clamps
- For spring clamps: compress and slide to final position and release.
- For worm clamps: tighten until snug. Do NOT overtighten — tighten until the hose can’t be twisted by hand and clamp is flat against hose without cutting into it. Over‑tightening risks cutting hose or deforming the nipple.
9) Refill coolant and bleed air
- Reinstall drain petcock if used.
- Refill the system with the correct coolant mix. Fill reservoir to the cold “max” mark.
- Bleeding: with reservoir cap off and heater set to hot/high, start engine and let idle. As the engine reaches operating temp the thermostat will open and coolant will circulate; you may see bubbles. Squeeze the upper radiator hose gently (with pliers or gloved hand) to help dislodge air pockets. Top up reservoir as level drops.
- Continue until no more air bubbles appear and temperature stabilizes in normal range.
- Reinstall cap on reservoir when full and no more bubbles. Cycle the heater on/off a few times to help remove air.
10) Check for leaks & test drive
- Inspect all hose connections while engine idles and after a short test drive.
- Recheck level after engine cools and top off if necessary.
- Reinspect clamps and hose routing after a few days of operation.

Bleeding tips (common for Nissans)
- Heater on max directs coolant through heater core and helps purge air.
- Squeezing hoses will force trapped air out to the radiator/reservoir.
- If there’s a dedicated bleed screw (some models), open it until a steady stream of coolant appears, then tighten.

Common beginner mistakes and how to avoid them
- Working hot or opening radiator when hot — always wait.
- Not cleaning nipple before fitting — results in poor seal and leaks.
- Putting clamp over the raised bead (bad position) — clamp will not seal properly.
- Using the wrong size clamp/hose — hose slips or is over-stressed.
- Forgetting to bleed air — causes overheating even if there are no leaks.
- Reusing very old brittle hoses or clamps — replace both where practical.
- Using wrong coolant — can lead to corrosion or gelling.

When plastic nipples are cracked
- You can sometimes replace just the component (radiator, water pump, thermostat housing) if available.
- Temporary repair: brass hose barb inserted into the broken plastic nipple area and clamped both sides — not as durable as proper replacement. Best solution is to replace the damaged part.

Torque/clamp guidance
- Hose clamps are typically snug, not high torque. Tighten until hose can’t be rotated on the nipple by hand; avoid overtightening. For worm clamps that specify torque, it’s usually low (a few N·m). Spring clamps don’t have torque specs but must sit square and compress the hose evenly.

Replacement intervals & preventive maintenance
- Inspect hoses every oil change for softness, cracks, bulges.
- Replace upper and lower radiator hoses every 4–6 years or sooner if damaged. Replace heater hoses when soft or cracked.
- Consider replacing radiator cap and thermostat if the system has been overheating or has old components.

Troubleshooting after replacement
- Persistent low coolant level: check for external leaks, heater core, head gasket (smell of exhaust in coolant), or internal leaks.
- Sudden loss of coolant / wet ground under vehicle: likely hose/neck failure — stop driving.
- Overheating despite no visible leaks: air trapped, failing thermostat, failing water pump, clogged radiator, or broken fan — diagnose stepwise.

Final checks and notes
- Always match hose routing to original. Improper routing causes rubbing and kinks.
- Use quality hoses (EPDM) and quality clamps to avoid repeating the job.
- If you find multiple cracked hoses, consider a full cooling system service (replace thermostat, cap, hoses, flush radiator).
- Keep old coolant away from animals and drains — it’s toxic and must be disposed of properly.

Estimated time
- Upper or lower hose alone: 30–90 minutes for a beginner.
- Full hose set + bleed: 1.5–3 hours, depending on seized clamps and accessibility.

That’s the complete beginner‑friendly rundown: what each part does, why hoses fail, every component involved, the step‑by‑step replacement with bleeding and safety, common problems and how to avoid them. Follow these steps and refer to a factory service manual or a vehicle‑specific guide for exact part numbers and any model‑specific quirks.
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Nissan Qashqai — Википедия Nissan Qashqai (также известен как Nissan Dualis в Японии и Австралии) — городской кроссовер, запущенный в массовое производство в конце декабря 2006 года.Впервые был представлен как концепт на Женевском автосалоне в 2004 году.

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