- Quick summary
- Replacing the front coil springs on a 1997 Nissan Navara D21 usually means removing the front strut assembly, compressing the coil on a bench, swapping springs (or replacing the whole strut), then reassembling. This procedure involves lifting the vehicle, handling compressed springs and suspension fasteners — read and follow all safety points below.

- Safety first (read and follow)
- Work on a flat, level surface; chock rear wheels and use parking brake.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always use rated jack stands on the factory frame points.
- Use a proper strut/spring compressor designed for automotive coil springs; springs under load can kill or maim if they release suddenly.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; stand to the side while compressing or decompressing springs.
- If unsure or uncomfortable at any step, stop and have a professional do the job.
- After replacement, always get a wheel alignment.

- Parts you may need and why
- Front coil springs (pair) — old springs sag or crack; replace in pairs to maintain even ride height and handling.
- Strut assemblies (optional) — if shocks/struts are worn, replacing the whole assembly is safer and easier than reusing old struts with a new spring.
- Top strut mounts/bearing plates — these wear and creak; replacing them with the springs prevents premature noise/failure.
- Dust boots and bump stops — protect the strut shaft; often degraded on older trucks and cheap to replace.
- New nuts/bolts (suspension fasteners) — corroded bolts should be replaced; hardware is safety-critical.
- Anti-seize or light thread locker — optional, used sparingly on bolts according to service manual.

- Tools required (basic tools plus why)
- Hydraulic floor jack — lifts the truck. Use on recommended jacking point and only for lifting; do not hold the vehicle on the jack.
- Quality jack stands (rated for vehicle weight) — support the truck while you work; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Wheel chocks — prevent vehicle roll.
- Wheel wrench / breaker bar / impact wrench — loosen/tighten lug nuts and stubborn suspension bolts. A breaker bar gives extra leverage for seized bolts.
- Socket set and wrenches (metric sizes up to 19–24 mm likely) — remove strut-to-knuckle bolts, top mount nuts, and other fasteners. Use the correct size to avoid rounding bolts.
- Torque wrench (metric, appropriate range) — critical to torque suspension fasteners to OEM specs for safety and correct handling.
- Strut spring compressor (automotive-type, two-arm or C-clamp with safety hooks) — required to safely compress and decompress the coil on the strut when the strut is off the vehicle. Do not improvise with vise grips/chains.
- Ball-joint separator or pickle fork / tie-rod end puller — to separate the lower strut/knuckle joints if needed. Safer and easier than hammering.
- Pry bar and large screwdriver — to help maneuver control arm or separate components.
- Hammer and punch — for freeing stuck bolts/pins.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster) — soak rusty bolts to ease removal.
- Wire brush — clean mating surfaces and threads before reassembly.
- Shop rags and drain pans — keep area clean and catch debris/fluids.
- Rubber mallet (optional) — gentle persuasion without damaging parts.
- Worklight — visibility under wheel wells.
- Gloves and eye protection — personal protection.
- Optional helpful tools: impact gun (speeds removal), spring compressor mount adapter for struts, second floor jack to support control arm.

- How to use the tools (short, practical notes)
- Floor jack: place under designated lift point, pump handle until vehicle lifts clear, then place jack stands under frame and slowly lower onto stands. Never place stands on pinch weld or body panels.
- Jack stands: set to the same height on both sides; ensure stable contact before removing the jack.
- Wheel wrench / breaker bar: break lug nuts loose while wheel is on ground so the wheel doesn’t spin. Use steady force; if heavy rust, apply penetrating oil first.
- Socket/wrench: use correct size, full engagement; pull wrench toward you for better control and to avoid sudden slips.
- Torque wrench: set to specified torque, tighten in stages to reach torque; double-check by re-torquing after a short test drive.
- Penetrating oil: spray, wait 10–20 minutes, then attempt to loosen bolts.
- Ball-joint separator: position between ball joint and knuckle, force apart gradually; use a puller style for less hammering.
- Spring compressor: attach the compressor’s hooks evenly across the coil on opposite sides. Tighten both sides a bit at a time, alternating sides to compress evenly. Compress until the top mount is free of spring tension before removing the top nut. To decompress, reverse procedure, loosening evenly and slowly while keeping hands clear.
- Pry bar: support components when prying; use the jack to slightly raise/lower control arm to make bolt alignment easier.

- Step-by-step procedure (high level, safety-focused)
- Prepare vehicle: park level, chock rear wheels, set parking brake, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly.
- Lift and secure: raise the truck at the front jacking points, support on jack stands, remove front wheels.
- Access strut: disconnect sway-bar end link from lower control arm or strut if attached, undo brake line/bracket from strut to free it, remove ABS sensor clip if present.
- Disconnect lower strut bolts: support the lower control arm with a jack and either remove or loosen the two large bolts/nuts that attach the strut to the steering knuckle. You may need to separate the ball joint or use a tie-rod/ball joint separator if the knuckle won’t pull away.
- Remove top mount nuts: under the hood at the strut tower, remove the top three nuts holding the strut mount while supporting the strut so it doesn’t drop.
- Remove strut assembly: carefully remove the entire strut assembly from the vehicle.
- Compress spring on bench: secure strut in a soft clamp or bench vise (protect the shaft), attach the spring compressor hooks evenly, compress the spring gradually until the top nut can be removed and the spring is loose from the strut rod.
- Replace parts: remove top nut and strut mount, replace coil spring (and dust boot, bump stop, top mount if replacing), then reassemble the strut on the bench. If you’re replacing the entire strut, you skip compression and use the new assembly.
- Re-tighten top nut while spring is compressed: hold strut rod from turning (use appropriate spanner) and torque top nut to spec. Decompress slowly and ensure spring seats correctly.
- Reinstall strut assembly: fit strut back into the strut tower, loosely fit top nuts to hold it, align bottom and insert bolts through knuckle and tighten to spec with control arm supported at normal ride height (if applicable).
- Reattach brake line, sway-bar link, sensors, and any brackets.
- Torque all nuts/bolts: use the torque wrench and correct torque values (consult factory service manual for D21 torque specs).
- Refit wheel, lower vehicle: hand-tighten lug nuts, lower off stands, then torque lug nuts to spec with vehicle on ground.
- Test and alignment: test-drive carefully to ensure no noises or binding. Get a professional wheel alignment.

- Why replacing strut vs only spring matters
- Old strut with new spring: if the shock is worn, the vehicle’s handling and ride will still be compromised; spring may be defeated by weak damping.
- New strut assembly: eliminates need to compress springs on bench and ensures matched damping and spring rates; safer and quicker, especially for beginners.
- Top mounts/dust boots: cheap insurance and often degraded on a 1997 truck — replacing them prolongs strut life.

- Common issues and tips
- Rusty bolts: soak overnight with penetrating oil; heat can help but requires caution.
- Stuck strut-to-knuckle bolts: use penetrating oil, hammer/punch, or an impact gun. Replace bolts if they are damaged.
- Spring seating: ensure coils sit correctly in both upper and lower seats before decompressing the compressor entirely.
- Alignment: front end alignment is mandatory after replacing springs or struts.
- Disposal: recycle old springs/struts at an auto recycling centre.

- Final safety reminders (no-nonsense)
- Use a proper spring compressor — never improvise.
- Never position your face or body over a compressed spring.
- Check all fasteners and torque values before driving.
- If any step feels unsafe or you lack the required tool (especially the spring compressor), pay a shop to do the compression/reassembly or buy/borrow the correct compressor.

- Quick shopping checklist (minimum)
- Front coil springs (pair) or complete front strut assemblies (pair)
- Spring compressor (if reusing struts)
- New top mounts/dust boots/bump stops (recommended)
- Replacement bolts/nuts if corroded
- Penetrating oil, anti-seize (optional), basic hand tools, torque wrench, jack stands

No questions. Follow the safety notes and get an alignment after reassembly.
rteeqp73

NISSAN HARDBODY EXHAUST Ka 24 single cam 12v custom 90 right off the cat #Hardbody #Nissan #240sx.

Repairing broken Door Lock Mechanism on Nissan D21 Hardbody Pick ups This video explains how to troubleshoot a Door Lock Mechanism that won't work with the key. In this particular truck, the part that ...

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