Quick summary
- Reverse in most R32 Skyline manual gearboxes is an unsynchronized gear that uses an idler gear to reverse output rotation. Noise, inability to engage, or grinding in reverse mean either the external linkage/clutch isn’t allowing engagement or internal parts (idler gear, teeth, bearings, forks, shafts) are damaged or badly worn.
- This guide explains theory, components, diagnosis, tools/parts, step‑by‑step removal, bench inspection/repair, reassembly, set‑up checks, and common failure modes — aimed at a beginner mechanic. Read it fully before starting. Consult the factory service manual for exact torque/spec values and clearances for your exact R32 model and gearbox code.

Theory (how reverse works, plain language + analogy)
- A manual gearbox takes engine rotation and routes it through sets of gears to make the driveshaft turn at different speeds/directions.
- Forward gears: input shaft to layshaft (countershaft) to output/mainshaft gears (meshed pairs). Reverse: instead of the usual paired gear on the countershaft directly driving the mainshaft, the transmission inserts an idler gear between the countershaft and the mainshaft. That idler meshes with both and reverses rotation direction.
- Analogy: imagine two people pushing two rolling pins in a line. If you connect them directly, both roll same direction. If you put a wooden rolling pin between them and make it spin, the outside pins turn opposite. The middle pin is the idler that flips direction.
- Syncros: Most forward gears have synchronizers that match speeds before engagement. Reverse is usually unsynchronized — there’s no speed‑matching device — so it must be stationary (or nearly) or the gears will grind. That’s why you sometimes have to stop before putting it into reverse.
- Why repair is needed: teeth wear, shock loads (backing into curb, grinding into gear), poor lubrication, broken bearings, worn fork or selector parts, or bent idler shaft lead to noise, inability to select reverse, grinding, and accelerated wear or catastrophic failure.

Major components you’ll encounter (what each is and what it does)
- Bellhousing: bolts to the engine and contains the clutch release mechanism. Provides mounting for starter and supports transmission front.
- Input shaft (drive shaft from clutch): transmits engine torque into gearbox.
- Layshaft / Countershaft: carries gears that mesh with output gears. It’s a fixed or supported shaft carrying multiple gears.
- Mainshaft / Output shaft: transmits torque out to the driveshaft/differential.
- Reverse idler gear (idler): an intermediate gear that meshes with countershaft gear and mainshaft reverse gear to reverse rotation.
- Idler shaft / idler carrier: the shaft or pin the idler gear spins on. Can be removable or integral.
- Reverse gear (on mainshaft or as a separate gear): mates with idler.
- Shift forks and selector rails: the forks move collars or gears to engage a gear; selector rails guide forks.
- Synchros (synchronizer assemblies): match gear speeds for engagement (reverse usually unsynchronized).
- Bearings: roller/bearing supports for shafts. Worn bearings allow misalignment and tooth damage.
- Seals/gaskets: prevent leaks. Old seals allow lubricant loss and contamination.
- Shift linkage / shifter assembly: external linkages that move selector rails. Problems here can mimic internal gearbox failures.
- Reverse light switch: electrical switch on the gearbox that completes the reverse lights circuit when reverse is selected.
- Tail housing / output flange: where driveshaft connects and where output seal sits.
- Case halves and covers: gearbox housing which holds all internals.

Symptoms that indicate reverse gear internal repair is needed
- Grinding or crunching only when engaging reverse.
- Reverse won’t engage or “ghosts” in and out.
- Reverse gear engagement only when car is stopped but not otherwise - normal to some extent, but loud grinding or refusal to engage is not.
- Loud whining or knocking only in reverse.
- Metal particles or strong gearbox metal smell / very contaminated gear oil.
- Excessive play in shift lever only when selecting reverse (after eliminating linkage issues).

Preliminary checks before opening the gearbox
- Check basic items you can fix without opening the box:
- Gear oil level, smell (burnt), metal flakes in magnet/drawer.
- Clutch adjustment and condition (slipping or not fully disengaging prevents engagement).
- External shift linkage bushings/pivots/cables — worn linkages can make it look like internal failure.
- Reverse light switch operation (does the reverse lamp come on when you select reverse?). If the switch moves with the shifter but no light, electrical issue.
- Try selecting reverse with wheels off ground, engine off, slowly rotating input by hand (if safe) to check synchronizing behavior.
- If linkage and clutch are good and you still have problems, proceed with gearbox removal.

Tools, shop supplies, parts (minimum, get the rest as needed)
- Tools: full metric socket and wrench set, torque wrench, breaker bar, screwdrivers, snap ring pliers, hammer and soft mallet, drift punches, pry bars, transmission jack or floor jack + blocks, engine support or transmission crossmember support, pliers, brake cleaner, rubbing alcohol, shop rags, parts trays, marker or paint pen, camera/phone for photos.
- Specialty: gear puller or bearing puller, press (for bearings), seal driver, dial indicator with magnetic base (for backlash and endplay), micrometer/feeler gauges, bench vice, circlip pliers, torque angle tool (if required), RTV or gasket maker.
- Consumables/parts: gasket set, seals (input/output), new bearings as needed, replacement idler gear or reverse gear (OEM or quality aftermarket), shift fork/rail if bent/worn, new bolts if marked single‑use, gear oil (manufacturer spec), threadlocker, anti‑seize.
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, jack stands, wheel chocks.

High level time & difficulty
- Difficulty: advanced for a beginner (requires heavy lifting, precise measurements, possible bearing & gear press work). Expect 1–3 days depending on skill and tools; gearbox removal and bench teardown is the major time sink.
- If you don’t have a press or the ability to re‑shim/set backlash, consider a gearbox specialist for the final rebuild.

Step‑by‑step procedure (detailed)
A. Preparation and safety
1. Work on level solid ground. Disconnect battery negative.
2. Support vehicle with ramps or jack stands; block wheels. Use an engine support if needed when transmission is removed (some models require supporting engine bellhousing).
3. Take many photos of linkages and wiring for reassembly. Label connectors.

B. Remove transmission (general R32 manual removal)
1. Drain gearbox oil into a clean pan; remove fill/drain plugs first to avoid mess.
2. Remove driveshaft/propeller shaft: unbolt flange at differential and slip out. Mark orientation for balance if doing a prop re‑fit.
3. Remove any heat shields, center/exhaust parts blocking access.
4. Disconnect shifter linkage from transmission. Remove shift cables or link rods.
5. Remove starter motor (clear access to bellhousing bolts).
6. Support transmission with transmission jack. Remove transmission mount and crossmember.
7. Unbolt bellhousing bolts in star pattern. If engine/trans are stuck, pry gently between bellhousing and engine using appropriate tool and protect surfaces.
8. Lower transmission carefully away from engine making sure clutch/throwout bearing is free. Inspect clutch assembly (disc, pressure plate, flywheel) and consider resurfacing or replacing if you’re inside.

C. Bench disassembly of gearbox
1. Secure gearbox in bench vise using soft jaws. Remove external covers: tail housing, shift cover/selector top cover.
2. Note and remove shift forks and selector rails — mark their positions. Reverse fork will be one of them; note collar positions.
3. Remove snap rings, circlips, and any retaining plates. Keep order and orientation of spacers, shims, and circlips — these set endplay.
4. Remove mainshaft and layshaft assemblies — this may require pressing bearings or using pullers. Use care with gears and bearings to avoid damage.
5. Locate the reverse idler assembly: idler shaft/pin and idler gear and its carrier. Remove the idler retaining fastener or circlip and slide out idler.
6. Inspect the reverse idler gear teeth, idler shaft/bushings, reverse gear on mainshaft, mating countershaft gear, and bearings in those areas.

D. Inspection (what to look for, what it means)
1. Gears:
- Chipped or missing teeth: replace gear(s).
- Flat spots or significant wear on tooth faces: replace.
- Pitting or corrosion: replace.
2. Bearings:
- Roughness or play in bearing: replace bearing.
- Missing needle rollers in needle bearings: replace.
3. Idler shaft:
- Worn journals or egg‑shaped pin: replace shaft or carrier.
- Broken shaft or snapped key: replace assembly.
4. Shift forks:
- Worn fork ends (where they contact the collars) cause poor engagement — replace or refinish.
- Bent fork: replace.
5. Synchronizers not used for reverse, but if their condition is poor they can contaminate oil and affect other gears.
6. Case and mating surfaces:
- Check for cracks around areas of high load; rare but serious.
7. Shims and thrust washers:
- Measure endplay of shafts and set shims properly. Excessive endplay causes misalignment and rapid wear.
8. Oil contamination:
- Metal particles: indicates major wear or tooth failure — inspect thoroughly.
9. Gaskets/seals:
- Replace all seals and gaskets; leaking seals cause oil starvation.

E. Repair / replacement decisions
- Replace idler gear, idler shaft, bearings, and any gear with damaged teeth.
- Replace worn shift forks or selector rails.
- Replace seals and gaskets.
- If multiple internal parts are suspect or if bearings need pressing, a full rebuild kit is sensible.

F. Reassembly and setup (critical steps)
1. Clean everything with solvent; inspect again.
2. Install new bearings with press; install gears in correct orientation and with any required locking rings.
3. Reinstall layshaft and mainshaft assemblies in sequence, using old shims as reference. Replace shims if necessary to achieve proper endplay.
4. When shafts are in, measure lateral endplay (axial movement) and correct with shims or thrust washers to factory spec. Use dial indicator to measure and adjust.
5. Measure gear backlash on the reverse gear set if applicable (idler mesh backlash) with a dial indicator — adjust by shimming idler position or replacing shims as required.
6. Reinstall shift forks and selector rails, ensuring forks engage collars properly and rails move freely.
7. Torque all fasteners to the specified values in factory manual. Use threadlocker where specified.
8. Fit new seals to tail housing and input flange with proper driver.
9. Replace all external gaskets; ensure mating surfaces are clean.

G. Reinstall transmission into vehicle
1. Align clutch disc and use appropriate alignment tool. Slide transmission onto engine input shaft until bellhousing mates fully.
2. Reinstall bellhousing bolts and torque in the correct sequence to factory values.
3. Reconnect crossmember, mount, starter, shift linkage, driveshaft, etc.
4. Refill gearbox with manufacturer‑specified gear oil to the correct level.
5. Reconnect battery.

H. Testing and break‑in
1. Start engine, with vehicle secure and wheels blocked, try to select gears — ensure reverse lights come on when engaged.
2. With car on jack stands, try engaging reverse gently and slowly rotate driveshaft by hand to check quiet mesh.
3. Road test at low speeds: check for noise, smooth engagement. Listen and feel for grinding or abnormal play. If any abnormality exists, stop and recheck.

How to measure and set clearances (basic explanation for a beginner)
- Endplay: mount a dial indicator on the shaft and push/pull the shaft axially; record movement. Adjust with shims as per factory spec.
- Backlash: lock one shaft and use dial indicator to measure movement of the mating gear when trying to rock it back and forth. Backlash is the small clearance between gear teeth; too much creates noise and wear, too little causes binding and heat.
- If you don’t have a dial indicator or correct shims, do not guess — improper backlash or endplay causes quick failure. Either rent the tools or use a professional.

Common failure modes and causes (what can go wrong)
- Worn or chipped idler teeth — from shock loads, poor lubrication, or misalignment.
- Worn idler shaft or bushings — creates excessive runout and gear misalignment.
- Worn bearings on countershaft/mainshaft — allow axial/radial play, misaligning gears.
- Damaged shift forks — caused by rider engagement with force, worn fork ends, or using transmission with bad shims.
- Contaminated/insufficient oil — metal debris circulates and accelerates wear.
- Incorrect reassembly/shimming — leads to immediate noise or rapid failure.
- Bent selector rails — cause misengagement or inability to select reverse.
- External linkage misadjusted — mistaken for internal failure.

Pitfalls and tips (practical beginner advice)
- Mark everything with paint or tape. Note orientation of forks, rails, and collars.
- Keep parts in order and labeled. Use trays.
- Take lots of photos during disassembly — they’re invaluable at reassembly.
- Always replace seals and bearings as a set if they’re worn.
- Don’t tighten bolts without checking required torque and sequence in the service manual.
- If you’re missing a press for bearings, don’t try to hammer bearings on; they will be damaged. Consider a shop press or a transmission shop.
- If metal flakes were in oil, be thorough — there may be secondary damage.
- If you’re not confident with measuring/shimming backlash and endplay, use a reputable rebuilder. Incorrect setup shortens gearbox life.
- Use correct gear oil specified for your transmission; do not mix incompatible additives.

Parts and cost pointers
- Idler gear or idler shaft (OEM or good aftermarket) is often not expensive, but shipping and availability vary.
- Bearings, seals, shims, fork — a rebuild kit is often wise.
- Expect anywhere from a few hundred dollars for a partial repair (parts only) up to well over ,000 if machining, full rebuild or specialist labor is required.

Safety reminders
- Gearboxes are heavy and awkward. Always use a transmission jack or a buddy for removal.
- Use eye protection and gloves when pressing bearings or cleaning parts with solvents.
- Dispose of used gearbox oil and contaminated rags according to local regulations.

Final words (practical judgment)
- If the problem was linkage, clutch, or low oil, you can avoid opening the gearbox. If internal gears or bearings are damaged, a bench rebuild is needed.
- The critical parts of a successful repair are correct diagnosis, careful disassembly noting orientation and shims, honest inspection, correct replacement parts, precise measurement (backlash and endplay), and torqueing to factory specs.
- If you lack the press/dial indicator and shims knowledge, remove the gearbox and bring it to a specialist for the internal rebuild — reinstallation you can still do to save money.

No Yapping: this is a complete practical guide to diagnosing and repairing reverse gear problems on an R32 Skyline manual gearbox. Follow the factory manual for exact specs.
rteeqp73

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