- Safety first
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal, work with the engine cold (manufacturer usually specifies cold-clearance check), wear eye protection and gloves, and use jack stands if you raise the car. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Remove anything that could fall into the engine (rags, loose tools). Make sure you can safely rotate the crank with a breaker bar or socket.

- Identify your R32 engine type and what style of valve actuation it uses
- RB20/RB25/RB26 engines in the R32 family are either SOHC or DOHC and typically use shims under buckets (shim-under-bucket) for valve clearance on DOHC RBs (RB26DETT is shim-under-bucket). Some older SOHC designs use rocker arms/tappets — measurement method differs.
- Why this matters: shim-under-bucket requires measuring clearance with cam lobes over buckets and changing shims to correct clearances; rocker/tappet types measure between rocker and valve tip.

- Tools you must have (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Feeler gauge set (metric, 0.05–1.00 mm range)
- Thin blades or leaves that you slide between the cam lobe and bucket (or rocker and valve tip) to measure clearance. Use the feeler that has a light drag at the specified clearance. Never force a thicker blade; you want the one that just fits with a slight resistance.
- Socket set and ratchet (metric sockets 8–19 mm)
- For removing valve cover bolts, accessories, and rotating the crank. Use a proper breaker bar for crank rotation to avoid stripping fasteners.
- Torque wrench (in Nm; 5–100 Nm range)
- Required to tighten cam caps, valve cover, and other reassembled parts to the correct torque. Use the factory torque specs — torque in stages and cross patterns where specified.
- Micrometer or digital calipers (0.01 mm resolution)
- To measure existing shim thickness precisely. Micrometer is preferred for thin shims. Accurate shim thickness is necessary to calculate replacement shim sizes.
- Shim kit (assortment of metric shims for RB engines, typically 1.50–3.00 mm in 0.05 mm increments or specified sizes)
- Replacement shims are required when valve clearances are out of spec. Carry a range of thicknesses so you can correct clearances without waiting for parts.
- Screwdrivers and small magnets (flathead and Phillips)
- For prying off the valve cover, moving hoses out of the way, and retrieving dropped shims. A magnet helps pick up shims or bolts.
- Feeler gauge holder or light source
- Good lighting and a small mirror make reading clearances easier.
- Crank pulley socket and breaker bar
- To rotate the engine to TDC and successive cams. Use appropriate socket to avoid damaging the crank bolt.
- Camshaft holding tool or labels/marker (optional but recommended)
- To mark cam position and prevent accidental rotation; masks confusion when removing cam caps.
- Small container/bins and labels
- Keep bolts/caps in order and labeled (cam cap sequence is critical).
- Clean shop rags and brake cleaner/degreaser
- Clean mating surfaces and remove oil for accurate inspection and seal replacement.
- Engine assembly lube or light engine oil
- To lubricate cam journals and buckets when reassembling.
- Service manual or spec sheet for your exact R32 engine
- Contains exact valve clearance specs, cam-cap torque specs, cam timing marks, and correct shim sizes. Essential. If you don’t have a physical manual, find a digital copy for your exact engine code.

- Extra tools that may be required and why
- Camshaft removal tools or cam cap bolt extractor (if you need to replace shims)
- On shim-under-bucket DOHC engines, to change shims you usually must remove or at least loosen cam caps so the buckets can be removed. Proper tools and care prevent cam journal damage.
- Valve shim puller/pusher tool or a small suction tool
- Makes removal and installation of small shims easier and reduces the chance of dropping shims into the head.
- Dial indicator and magnetic base (for professional measurement)
- Useful if you prefer to measure valve lift/clearance more precisely, but not strictly necessary for the basic shim change.
- Compressor or shop vacuum (optional)
- To retrieve dropped shims from beneath camshafts or to keep the work area clean.
- Bench micrometer and shim gauge blocks (for high-accuracy measurement)
- Helpful if you want to measure many shims precisely before selection.

- Parts you will probably need and why
- Assortment of valve shims (correct metric sizes for RB engine)
- Needed when clearances are out of spec. You calculate new shim thickness and replace the existing shim with the new thickness.
- Valve cover gasket
- You must remove the valve cover to access the cams/buckets — the gasket often tears or compresses; replacing it prevents oil leaks.
- Camshaft oil seals (if disturbed) and any O-rings/hose clamps you remove
- If seals are leaking or you disturb them, replace to avoid oil leaks.
- Engine oil (top-up) and possibly oil filter
- You’ll disturb oil passages; fresh oil is safe after reassembly. If you drained oil previously, refill and torque correctly.
- Threadlocker (low strength) for bolts if specified by service manual
- Use only where manufacturer specifies.

- When replacement parts are required and why
- Shims: required when measured clearance is outside spec and cannot be corrected by adjustment other than swapping shim thickness.
- Valve cover gasket: recommended replacement whenever the valve cover is removed to ensure leak-free reassembly.
- Cam seals/valvetrain components: replace if worn or leaking. Worn shims or buckets are rare but, if damaged, need replacement.
- Valves/springs: only replace if you find bent valves, broken springs, or excessive wear when inspecting — this is uncommon unless the engine has suffered timing failure or other severe problems.

- Typical valve-adjustment workflow (general, covers shim-under-bucket and rocker types)
- Prepare engine: remove intake components, ignition coils/spark plugs (for access and to make rotation easier), and remove valve cover. Keep fasteners organized.
- Locate timing marks and set cylinder 1 to TDC on the compression stroke using crank pulley marks and cam timing marks. Confirm both cams correspond to cylinder 1 TDC (service manual illustrations help).
- For each cylinder in the firing order (or per manual):
- Rotate the crank so the cam lobe for the valve you're measuring is pointing away from the bucket/rocker (lobe base circle).
- Clean the area and use a feeler gauge between cam lobe and bucket (shim-under-bucket) or between rocker and valve tip (rocker type). You want a light drag on the correct spec feeler size (refer to service manual for IN/EX clearance values).
- Record measured clearance for each valve and compare to spec.
- If clearance is within spec: reassemble the valve cover with a new gasket, torque bolts to spec, reinstall removed parts, and recheck for leaks.
- If clearance is out of spec on shim-under-bucket:
- Rotate to the valve base circle and remove cam caps as required (keep cap order and orientation — mark them). Remove the camshaft if necessary to access buckets.
- Measure the existing shim thickness with a micrometer.
- Calculate new shim thickness: new_shim = existing_shim + measured_clearance - target_clearance (all in mm). Round to the nearest available shim size and select that shim.
- Replace shim, reassemble camshaft and caps using assembly lube on journals, torque caps in the correct sequence and to spec.
- Re-measure clearance with cam or cap installed and adjust again if necessary.
- If rocker/tappet type:
- Adjust via the rocker arm adjuster/nut and locking nut with feeler gauge to the correct spec, then lock down the adjuster.

- Important practical tips
- Always keep cam caps in their original position and orientation — caps are matched to journals.
- Use service manual torque sequences and values for cam caps and valve cover bolts — incorrect torque can cause cam or head damage.
- Work methodically, one cylinder at a time, and label everything.
- If you drop a shim or small component, retrieve it before rotating the engine; a dropped shim can end up under the cam and cause catastrophic damage.
- After reassembly, rotate the engine by hand two full revolutions and recheck timing marks before starting. Listen for unusual noises on first start and check for oil leaks.

- Common specs and examples (confirm with your service manual)
- Valve clearance examples (do NOT rely solely on these — confirm for your exact engine code and year):
- Typical RB DOHC intake/exhaust clearances are roughly 0.20–0.25 mm (intake) and 0.20–0.30 mm (exhaust) cold, but verify your engine’s spec.
- Cam cap torque: consult the factory manual. If you lack the manual, obtain it before removing cam caps.

- When to stop and get professional help
- If you find bent valves, broken springs, scoring on cam journals or buckets, or if cam caps are seized or bolts round off, stop and consult a professional.
- If you don’t have the correct shims or a micrometer, don’t guess shim sizes — incorrect shims can ruin an engine.

- Quick checklist to take to the job
- Service manual for your exact R32 engine code
- Feeler gauges, micrometer/digital caliper, shim kit
- Torque wrench, socket set, breaker bar
- Valve cover gasket, rags, assembly lube
- Clean work area and good lighting

- Final note (concise)
- Valve clearance work on RB engines is straightforward measurement but can require cam removal and precise shim selection. Follow the service manual exactly for specs and torque values; use the tools listed and replace shims and valve cover gasket as needed to restore correct clearances.
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