The Nissan X-Trail is a compact crossover SUV produced by the Japanese
automaker Nissan since 2001. It was one of Nissan's first crossover
SUVs and was released about the same time as several other companies
competing car-based compact SUVs including the Suzuki Grand Vitara, Ford
Getaway and the Mazda Tribute sibling, the Hyundai Tucson, Honda CR-V
and the Toyota RAV4. The X-Trail is positioned below the truck-based
Xterra and Pathfinder and had been never offered by dealerships in the
United States. The first generation was available in Canada until it was
replaced by the Rogue. However, both the the X-Trail and Rogue are sold
in Mexico. The Rogue shares the same platform as the second-generation
X-Trail and is really similar to the Qashqai.The X-Trail's All-Mode 4x4
transmission transfer case enables the driver to select between 2WD, 4WD
or 4WD Lock through an electronic switch on the dashboard. The company
currently offers a hydrogen fuel cell model called the X-Trail FCV on
lease to businesses.
The main production plant of the X-Trail is in Kanda,
Fukuoka, Japan; though parts and engines that are produced in Japan are
additionally assembled by other Nissan plants in numerous countries.The
first-generation X-Trail makes use of the Nissan FF-S system, shared
with the Nissan Almera and the Nissan Primera. The X-Trail was sold in
Canada for the 2005 and 2006 model years (but Nissan Canada continued to
market the X-Trail until 2007), and in Mexico since 2003. The X-Trail
has been sold in the Philippines since mid-2003, and received facelifts
in early 2005 and May 2007. In the United Kingdom the first-generation
car was available in SE+, S and Sport between launch and 2004. The trim
levels were then revised to SE, Sport, SVE and T-Spec. At this point all
models were equipped with full electrical electricity, windows
adjustable door mirrors (on SVE & T-Spec they are electrically
folding additionally), climate control, unmarried CD player, 4 airbags
and remote central locking. The trim levels were once again revised in
2006. Nissan is nevertheless selling the Nissan X-Trail T30 model in
some countries, where it is called the Nissan X-Trail Classic. In 2007
the Yulon manufactured model version got a facelift.
Available only in the Japanese market is the SR20VET
that produces 206 kW (280 hp) and is used in the X-Trail GT. The
Australian model is powered by a QR25DE 2.5 L 4-cylinder engine
initially producing 132 kW (177 hp). From January 2006, the
Australian-spec engine had been detuned to 123 kW (169 hp). Also
available is the QR20DE 4-cylinder engine, creating 103 kW (140 hp) or
110 kW (150 hp) with manual or automatic transmission. The biggest
selling engine in the United Kingdom is the YD22DDTi, a 2.2 litre
turbo-charged common-rail diesel. The X-Trail has had three model
revisions, the Series 1 and Series 2 (using Nissan FF-S platform) and
the Series 3 (using Nissan/Renault C platform). There were different
cosmetic and engineering changes made between series 1 and 2 but the
series 3 is all new despite a similar appearance with new engines aside
from the 2.5L which has been retained.
Nissan X-Trail T30 factory workshop and repair manual 2001-2007 Download 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006
Quick overview — what this repair is and why you do it
- The transmission pan gasket seals the transmission oil pan to the transmission case. The pan holds the transmission fluid sump and the filter. Over time the gasket hardens, shrinks, gets cut, or the pan/mating surface gets dented, and fluid will leak. Low or contaminated automatic transmission fluid (ATF) causes slipping, overheating, delayed shifts, clutch/servo damage and eventual gearbox failure. Replacing the pan gasket restores a fluid-tight seal and is a common first step when you find a leak at the pan.
Analogy
- Think of the transmission as a sealed bath for hydraulic gears and clutches. The pan is the drain basin and the gasket is the bathtub seal. If the seal fails the bath leaks and the system won’t have enough fluid to work properly.
High-level theory: how the automatic transmission works (relevant to this repair)
- Transmission pump: driven by the torque converter input, it pressurizes ATF and feeds the hydraulic circuits.
- Valve body: the control center routing pressurized fluid to clutches/bands to select gears.
- Clutches/bands and planetary gearsets: create gear ratios via hydraulic engagement.
- Filter and pan: the filter removes metal/contaminant particles; the pan is the sump where fluid pools when pump is off. Magnets in the pan capture ferrous debris.
- The pan gasket keeps the sump sealed. If the gasket leaks, fluid drains away, pump cavitates, pressure drops, and the transmission slips or overheats.
Components you will see and what each does (detailed)
- Transmission pan (steel or stamped): shallow tray bolted to the bottom of the transmission case. Holds ATF. Small dents can prevent sealing.
- Gasket: usually paper, cork, or molded rubber; sits between pan and transmission case to prevent leaks.
- Pan bolts: fasten pan to case. Often different lengths and should be returned to original holes.
- Magnets (in pan): small magnets glued or pressed into the pan to attract steel filings. Inspect for large flakes — a few fine particles normal, big chunks are warning signs.
- Filter (internal): traps debris from fluid and often bolts to the valve body or transmission case. Some filters are paper elements; some are screens. Replace or clean per manual.
- Valve body (above filter): hydraulic control assembly. You usually won’t remove it for a simple gasket change—don’t loosen valve body bolts unless necessary.
- Drain plug (if equipped): some pans have a plug so you can drain fluid without removing the pan.
- Dipstick tube/fill port: for adding and checking ATF level. Many Nissan autos use a specific fill procedure and require checking level with engine warm and running.
- Transmission case mating surface: the flat machined surface on the transmission body the pan seals to.
Tools & supplies
- Vehicle service manual or Nissan factory procedures (essential for fluid type, capacity, torque specs, and dipstick/check procedure).
- Jack, jack stands or vehicle ramps, and wheel chocks (never rely on the jack alone).
- Oil drain pan (big enough for several liters of ATF).
- Socket set and ratchet, extensions, screwdriver set.
- Torque wrench (for proper bolt torque).
- Gasket scraper or thin plastic scraper (avoid gouging mating surfaces).
- Clean rags, parts cleaner or brake cleaner.
- New pan gasket (make sure it’s the correct part for X-Trail T30).
- New transmission filter (recommended).
- Replacement pan bolts if any are damaged or self-locking.
- ATF of the type specified by Nissan for your year/model (see manual — many Nissan automatics use Nissan Matic specs).
- Gloves and eye protection.
- Small magnet pick-up tool (handy to retrieve bolts/drops).
- RTV gasket maker only if manual allows (use sparingly and per instructions).
Safety first (do this every time)
- Work on a flat surface. Set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Support vehicle on quality jackstands — never crawl under a car only supported by a jack.
- Allow transmission to cool; hot ATF will burn you. Wear gloves and eye protection.
- Properly dispose of used ATF — it’s hazardous waste.
Step-by-step procedure (beginner-friendly)
Note: this is a clear general procedure. Exact bolt torques, fluid type, fill method and quantities differ by model/year — check the Nissan service manual for your T30 and follow its specified torque, ATF type (e.g., Nissan Matic grade), and level-check method.
1) Prepare the vehicle
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Raise the front with floor jack and support on jackstands at manufacturer lift points.
- Place the drain pan under the transmission pan.
2) Warm the transmission (optional)
- A warm transmission drains more fluid. Start the car for a few minutes then shut off. Do not work on a hot car without care; allow reasonable cooldown so fluid is warm but not scalding.
3) Drain fluid (two common methods)
- If pan has a drain plug: remove drain plug and let fluid flow into drain pan. Replace plug temporarily when drained.
- If no drain plug: loosen pan bolts evenly, but do not remove all. Back them out about 2–3 turns while keeping the pan supported so it can pivot; fluid will slowly leak out along the loosened edge into your drain pan. Once most fluid has drained, remove remaining bolts and lower pan carefully. Catch all fluid — it’s messy.
4) Remove the pan
- Remove all bolts and lower the pan. Hold it level so fluid in pan doesn’t spill everywhere.
- Pay attention to bolt lengths/locations — photograph or mark bolt positions so they go back to the same holes.
5) Inspect pan & magnets
- Clean the pan with solvent and rag. Remove and inspect magnets: wipe off captured filings — a thin metallic sheen is normal. Large chunks (copper-colored pieces, clutches) or heavy scoring is a serious alarm.
- Inspect pan gasket surface: look for gouges, old gasket remnants, corrosion or dents. If pan top edge is warped or dented, repair or replace pan.
6) Remove and replace filter
- The filter typically unbolts from the transmission with a few screws or pulls out. Replace with new filter; compare new and old to ensure correct orientation and fitment.
- Do not drop bolts into the transmission. Keep filter area clean.
7) Clean mating surfaces
- Scrape off old gasket material gently from both pan and transmission case. Use a plastic scraper or razor carefully. Clean with solvent and rag until surfaces are oil-free.
- Wipe the bolt holes of excess oil.
8) Install new gasket and pan
- Position the new gasket on the pan or the case as recommended. Some gaskets are asymmetric — orient correctly.
- If using a thin bead of RTV (only if manual allows), apply small beads in corners where channels may be — do not smear thickly. Many paper gaskets require no sealant.
- Lift pan into place, start bolts by hand to keep gasket seated. Finger-tighten all bolts first.
9) Torque bolts to spec in a criss-cross pattern
- Using the torque wrench, tighten bolts in a star or criss-cross pattern to the manufacturer torque in several stages (e.g., snug, then final torque). This evens compression on the gasket. Do NOT overtighten — pan bolts are small and can strip or distort the pan.
10) Refill with ATF
- Lower vehicle so it’s level. Refill with the specified ATF through the dipstick tube or fill hole. Add less than full capacity — you’ll top up to correct level after running.
- Many Nissan transmissions require checking fluid level with engine idling and transmission in Park (or a specific gear), at operating temperature — check the exact procedure. Add fluid gradually to reach the correct level.
11) Run and cycle
- Start engine, let it idle until warmed to normal operating temperature. With foot brake on, cycle slowly through gears (P-R-N-D-2-1 etc.) to circulate fluid. Return to Park, recheck fluid level per manual and add as required. Check immediately for leaks around pan.
12) Final check
- Inspect for leaks after a short drive and after another warm-up. Re-torque bolts if the manual specifies a recheck after initial run-in.
Important procedure notes and cautions
- Replace the filter whenever you remove the pan for service unless the manual allows otherwise.
- Bolt lengths: Some bolts are longer near the rear or front; mix-up can damage internals. Keep bolts organized and return them to original holes.
- Don’t loosen valve body bolts or remove valve body unless you have the manual and competence — that opens a far more advanced job involving precise reassembly and torque sequences.
- Torque matters: overtightening warps the pan and squeezes gasket too much causing leaks; undertightening leaks as well. Use proper torque specs.
- Correct fluid and level: Wrong ATF formulation or incorrect level will cause poor shift quality and damage. Always use Nissan-specified fluid.
What can go wrong (symptoms and causes)
- Immediate continuing leak after replacement: gasket misaligned, pan warped, bolts under- or over-torqued, leftover old gasket bits preventing seal, wrong gasket type, or failing mating surface.
- Low fluid after repair: you missed a leak elsewhere (cooler lines, front pump seal, output shaft seal). Check for external leaks.
- Fluid contamination or heavy metal shavings in pan/filter: internal wear — clutch/gear/solenoid failure. If you find copper-colored friction material, have transmission inspected.
- Stripped pan bolt threads: often from overtightening; can require helicoil or case replacement.
- Transmission slipping after service: wrong ATF type, low level, trapped air, or filter not seated correctly.
- Overfilling: leads to foaming, pressure issues, overheating — drain excess if overfilled.
Troubleshooting tips
- If you see a steady stream of fluid after tightening: stop, remove pan and re-clean surfaces. Check for damaged pan edge or a burr.
- If there’s a puddle of red fluid under car but pan looks good: trace lines to cooler, torque converter seal area, and rear output shaft. Use UV dye if needed.
- If metal shavings are found: take vehicle to a transmission specialist. Large amounts of metal usually indicate internal failure.
Disposal and environmental notes
- Store used ATF in a sealed container and take it to a recycling center or hazardous waste facility. Do not dump on ground or in drains.
Final reminders (must-dos)
- Always follow the Nissan factory service manual for your exact year and transmission code (T30 X-Trail had several transmission options). The manual gives exact torque values, filter part numbers, ATF type, fill capacity and level-check procedure — these are essential.
- Work safely under the car — jackstands and chocks are mandatory.
- Replace the filter and inspect magnets. If you find large metallic debris, stop and have a professional diagnose further.
This gives you the full picture: why the gasket matters, how the transmission’s sump/filter/pan interact, what parts you will handle, a beginner-friendly step-by-step with safety and troubleshooting, and the critical note to use the factory manual for torque and fluid specifics.
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