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Nissan X-Trail T-31 2007-2013 factory workshop and repair manual download

- Quick check before you start
- Nissan X‑Trail T31 (2007–2013) may or may not have a separate mechanical/electro‑vacuum "auxiliary air valve" (AAV / idle air control / bypass valve). Many later engines use the electronic throttle body to control idle instead of a separate AAV. Locate the part first — if you can’t find a small valve near the throttle body with a vacuum hose or an electrical connector, your car may not have a separate AAV and cleaning/replacing that part will not apply.

- Symptoms that point to an AAV problem (why you’d work on it)
- Rough or fluctuating idle when cold
- Stalling on warmup or immediately after start
- High idle after start then falls off
- Vacuum hose disconnected, audible hissing or vacuum leak
- Check Engine light with idle control codes (example: P0505 / P0506; codes differ by system)

- Safety first (must read)
- Work with the engine off and cool unless you are performing a live test (see electrical test).
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical connectors (this avoids shorts and ECU glitches). Note: radio presets/clock may reset.
- Don’t force plastic connectors; depress locking tabs and pull straight out.

- How to locate the AAV
- Open the hood and find the throttle body on the intake manifold (large plastic or metal housing where the air filter box connects).
- Look for a small valve bolted to the intake manifold or throttle body area with a vacuum hose or an electrical connector. It can be plastic/metal, about the size of a small cup.

- Tools you need (each tool described and how to use it)
- Ratchet and socket set (common sizes 8mm, 10mm):
- Description: ratchet handle with interchangeable sockets.
- How to use: fit the correct socket to the fastener, turn the ratchet handle to loosen/tighten bolts. Use a short extension to reach tight spots. Required because AAV bolts are usually small hex head bolts.
- Combination wrench set (open-end/box-end):
- Description: handheld wrenches sized to match nuts/bolts.
- How to use: hold the nut with the box end while turning the bolt with a socket or vice versa. Useful where a socket won’t fit.
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers:
- Description: common drivers for hose clamps and small screws.
- How to use: use the correctly sized tip to avoid stripping heads. Spring hose clamps or clamp screws on vacuum lines often use these.
- Needle-nose pliers and regular pliers:
- Description: pliers for grabbing/clamping and pulling hoses or connectors.
- How to use: gently squeeze and pull off hose clamps or vacuum hoses. Useful for removing stubborn vacuum lines.
- Torx/Allen bits (if needed):
- Description: star or hex keys; some valves use these fasteners.
- How to use: match the bit to the screw and turn with a driver or socket adapter.
- Multimeter (digital):
- Description: measures voltage, resistance, continuity.
- How to use: set to the appropriate range, probe connector pins to check for power, ground, or coil resistance. Required to test electrical valves and wiring.
- Hand vacuum pump with gauge (optional but very helpful):
- Description: small hand pump with hose and vacuum gauge.
- How to use: attach to the valve’s vacuum port and pump to see if the valve holds vacuum and moves. Good for diaphragm‑type AAVs.
- Throttle body / intake cleaner spray (brake or throttle body cleaner):
- Description: solvent spray formulated to remove carbon and varnish.
- How to use: spray into the valve/throttle body and wipe with a cloth or soft brush. Required to clean gummed passages and the valve face.
- Lint‑free shop cloths, small soft brush (toothbrush), and a small container for bolts:
- Description: cleaning and organization aids.
- How to use: keep parts clean and bolts together so nothing is lost.
- Replacement gasket or O‑ring (if valve uses one):
- Description: thin gasket or rubber O‑ring that seals the valve to the manifold.
- How to use: remove old, clean surface, fit new one before reassembly. Required because old gaskets often leak once disturbed.
- Torque wrench (optional for neatness):
- Description: wrench that clicks at set torque.
- How to use: set to manufacturer spec and tighten bolts to spec. If you don’t have one, snug carefully — do not overtighten plastic bolts.
- Battery terminal wrench (8mm):
- Description: small wrench to disconnect battery negative terminal.
- How to use: loosen nut on battery clamp and remove cable. Prevents shorts when unplugging connectors.

- Step‑by‑step — removal, testing, cleaning, reinstall (bulleted, concise)
- Prepare: park on level ground, engage parking brake, engine off and cool, disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Access: remove any engine covers or air intake ducting that blocks access to the throttle body and the small valve. Use screwdrivers and sockets as needed.
- Identify & document: take a phone photo of the valve, hose routing and connector orientation before removing anything.
- Disconnect: depress the electrical connector tab and pull it straight off. Use pliers to remove vacuum hoses (mark them or take photos to refit correctly). If hoses are tight, twist gently while pulling.
- Remove bolts: use the correct socket or Torx to remove the valve mounting bolts. Keep bolts organized.
- Inspect the valve: check for carbon buildup, sticky plate, or a torn diaphragm (for vacuum type). If you see heavy corrosion, broken plastic, or torn rubber, replacement is likely required.
- Bench vacuum test (if vacuum type and you have a hand vacuum pump): connect pump to valve port, apply vacuum; the valve should move/hold vacuum without leaking. If it won’t hold vacuum or won’t move, replace.
- Electrical test (if electrically controlled): use a multimeter to check for continuity across coil pins (not definitive without spec but look for an open circuit). Backprobe connector with key on (engine off) to check for proper supply voltage/ground if instructed by repair manual. If no power/ground, the wiring or ECU may be the issue rather than the valve.
- Cleaning (if valve is intact): spray throttle-body cleaner into valve bores and mating faces; use a soft brush to remove carbon. Wipe clean and let solvent evaporate. Do not soak electrical parts. Replace O‑ring/gasket when reassembling.
- Reinstall: fit new gasket/O‑ring, position valve, hand‑start bolts, tighten snug (do not overtighten plastic). Reconnect vacuum hose(s) and electrical connector. Reinstall air intake parts.
- Reconnect battery: reattach negative terminal.
- Start engine and check: idle should stabilize. If idle is rough immediately, check for vacuum leaks (listen for hissing) and ensure hoses are seated correctly. Clear any trouble codes using an OBD‑II reader if present; drive test.

- When replacement is required and what to buy
- Replace if: physical damage (cracked housing), torn diaphragm, fails vacuum test, open electrical coil, or cleaning does not restore correct behavior.
- Part name to search: "Idle Air Control Valve", "Auxiliary Air Valve", "Bypass Valve", or "Idle Air Bypass Valve" for your specific VIN/engine. Use your VIN or engine code when ordering to ensure correct fit.
- Where to buy: Nissan dealer (OE part), reputable online parts stores, or aftermarket suppliers. Compare part photos and plug types.
- Typical additional parts: new gasket or O‑ring, possibly replacement vacuum hoses or clamps if brittle.
- Cost expectations: OE valve and gasket vary by region — expect a wide range (–0 depending on source and whether OE or aftermarket). Get exact pricing when you search with your VIN.

- Extra tool reasons (recap)
- Multimeter: confirms electrical issues vs valve mechanical failure.
- Hand vacuum pump: proves diaphragm/valve holds vacuum — quick mechanical test.
- Torque wrench: prevents over‑tightening, protects plastic parts and gaskets.
- Cleaner and brushes: removes carbon that often causes sticking without replacing parts.

- Final troubleshooting notes (fast)
- If cleaning and reinstallation don’t fix the idle, check for vacuum leaks, intake boot cracks, and ECU/Throttle Body faults — modern engines often use the throttle body rather than a separate AAV.
- If you have persistent check engine codes, read the codes with an OBD‑II reader; codes guide whether the valve, wiring, or throttle body is the cause.

- Last basic tips for a beginner
- Work slowly, photograph each step so reassembly is correct.
- Keep bolts and small parts in a container.
- Don’t over‑spray electrical connectors; keep them dry.
- If you’re unsure about electrical tests, cleaning and gasket replacement are safe first steps; replacing the valve is straightforward once removed.

No Yapping.
rteeqp73

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