Summary — what you are fixing and why
- The transmission (gearbox/hydro) cooler is a small heat-exchanger that removes heat from gearbox/hydraulic oil. Think of it as a miniature radiator for the transmission: hot oil flows in, gives off heat to air (or engine coolant), and cooler oil returns to the gearbox.
- You repair the cooler when it leaks, is clogged (so it won’t cool), has collapsed/rotten hoses or broken fittings, or is internally contaminated so it circulates grit into the gearbox. Left uncorrected, overheating and contamination shorten clutch, bearing and gear life and can cause catastrophic gearbox failure.

Safety and prep (read this before touching anything)
- Park on level ground, handbrake on, wheels chocked. Engine cold. Wear gloves and eye protection.
- Oil is hot and flammable: no sparks, no open flame if you will be heating/soldering. Work in a ventilated area.
- Catch oil in a drain pan and dispose of used oil and debris per local rules.
- Keep rags and absorbent pads ready for spills.

Overview of every component (what it is and what it does)
- Cooler core (tube-and-fin or plate core): the heat-exchanging element. Oil travels through tubes/plates; air (or coolant) passes over the outside to remove heat. If core is punctured or corroded it will leak.
- Inlet and outlet lines: metal pipes or rubber hoses that carry oil to and from the gearbox. On older TE-series tractors these may be steel or copper lines with threaded fittings or banjo fittings.
- Fittings and unions (banjo bolts, pipe threads, compression fittings): join lines to cooler and gearbox. They use washers or seals to keep oil tight.
- Mounting brackets: hold cooler in place; keep it isolated from vibration.
- Clamps (hose clamps) or ferrules (for rigid lines): secure hoses to fittings.
- Strainer/screen (if present): prevents large particles entering cooler/gearbox.
- Bypass valve or pressure relief (if present in system): protects cooler from overpressure or bypasses it if blocked (some systems include this; many old tractors don’t).
- Gaskets/crush washers/threads sealant: ensure leak-free joints. Crush washers are common on banjo bolts; pipe thread sealant/PTFE tape on pipe threads.

Theory — how the system works (simple analogy)
- Analogy: The gearbox produces heat like a kettle but has no steam pipe; the cooler is a small radiator that takes that heat away. An oil pump or natural circulation sends hot oil out from the gearbox through the cooler and back. As oil flows through thin passages in the cooler, heat transfers to air (or coolant), so the oil returns cooler and protects gears/clutches.
- If flow is restricted (clogged core or pinched hose), oil overheats. If the cooler leaks, oil level drops and air/contamination enters the system. Both cause accelerated wear.

Symptoms that indicate cooler needs repair
- Visible oil leak from cooler, fittings or lines.
- Low gearbox oil level repeatedly.
- Vents full of oil, clutch slipping, noisy gears, overheating of gearbox.
- Oil discoloration (burnt smell, sludge).
- Reduced cooling efficiency (oil runs hotter than normal under load).

Tools and materials you will need
- Drain pan, rags, shop towels, absorbent pads.
- Metric and imperial spanners/wrenches, adjustable wrench, pliers.
- Screwdrivers, hose clamp pliers.
- Pipe wrench or tubing spanner if rigid pipes used.
- Wire brush, emery cloth, rust-penetrant spray (WD-40 type).
- Compressed air or garden hose for flushing and pressure testing.
- Solvent/degreaser (kerosene or approved cleaner), small wire brushes.
- New hoses (if rubber), new clamps or ferrules, new crush washers or gaskets, thread sealant or PTFE tape.
- Replacement cooler core or replacement unit (recommended if core is corroded or has multiple leaks).
- Socket set and torque wrench (if you have torque specs).
- Safety gloves, eye protection.
- Optional: soldering/brazing gear or welding, but only if you know how — otherwise replace.

Diagnosis — find the problem
1. Visual inspection: look for wet oil on core, fittings, hoses, mounting area. Wipe clean then run engine briefly to see source.
2. Smell and check oil level in gearbox. Low oil + drip = leak.
3. Check hoses for soft spots, cracks, or crushed areas.
4. Pressure/leak test: remove one line, plug cooler outlet, connect a short length of hose to inlet and gently blow with compressed air (5–15 psi) while submerging cooler in water. Bubbles = leak. If you don’t have compressed air, use a garden hose to backflush (low-pressure water).
5. Flow test: flush cooler both directions with water or solvent; if flow is severely reduced, core is clogged.

Repair options (choose based on condition)
- Replace hoses and fittings: standard, inexpensive, easiest.
- Flush internal blockage: if only clogged by sludge or scale and exterior condition is good.
- Repair small external leaks: solder/braze or use epoxy/metal-repair putty for small pinholes (temporary).
- Replace whole cooler/core if corroded, multiple leaks, or internal failure.

Step-by-step repair (a safe, beginner-friendly pathway)
A. Preparation
- Gather parts: new hoses/fittings, crush washers, clamps, replacement cooler if needed.
- Drain gearbox oil: remove drain plug and catch oil. This is a good time for a full gearbox oil change.
- Label and/or photograph any piping so you can reconnect correctly.

B. Disconnect and remove cooler
1. Clean area around connections to avoid dirt falling into system.
2. Loosen hose clamps or pipe fittings. For pipe threads, apply penetrating oil and allow time to free up.
3. Plug removed lines immediately to avoid contamination (use clean rag or rubber caps).
4. Remove mounting bolts and lift out cooler assembly. Have drain pan beneath — the cooler will contain oil.

C. Inspect and decide
- If hoses are cracked, replace them.
- If fittings are corroded or threads rounded, replace fittings.
- If core is only dirty but structurally sound, go to flush procedure. If core has visible pinholes, corrosion or many leaks, replace core.

D. Flushing a reusable core
1. Safety: remove all fittings and gaskets.
2. Flush with kerosene or low-pressure hot water in both directions until clear. Use a brush for deposits in small passages if accessible.
3. Backflush with compressed air if available.
4. Pressure test by submerging in water and applying low air pressure (5–15 psi) to inlet; watch for bubbles. Do NOT exceed safe pressure — cores are thin-walled.
5. Dry thoroughly (blow dry with compressed air or let air-dry).

E. Repairing small leaks (temporary)
- Metal cores (copper/brass): small pinholes can be soldered or brazed by someone skilled; heat may damage surrounding seals. This is repair-shop work.
- Aluminum cores are difficult to braze without specialized equipment; often replacement is better.
- Epoxy metal repair compounds (cold weld) can be used as a temporary field fix but are not permanent under pressure/heat.

F. Reassembly
1. Replace crush washers/gaskets on all fittings.
2. If pipe thread: use appropriate sealant (PTFE tape or pipe thread sealant) sparingly. For banjo bolts use new copper washers and torque evenly.
3. Reconnect hoses/lines; use new hose clamps. Ensure hoses aren’t kinked or near heat sources.
4. Mount cooler securely but isolate from excessive vibration using rubber mounts if available.

G. Refill, prime and bleed
1. Reinstall gearbox drain plug.
2. Refill gearbox to the correct level with the oil type specified for TE-20 (consult your tractor manual). Note: many vintage tractors used engine oil or tractor-specific oils; do not guess — check manual. If you can’t access the manual, a common safe temporary choice is SAE 30 mineral oil for warm climates; modern multigrade 10W-30 may be used with caution — but always verify.
3. If system uses a pump that needs priming, turn engine briefly at idle and cycle through gear changes (with tractor stationary but clutch engaged/disengaged as appropriate) to move oil through lines and cooler.
4. Check oil level again after circulating; top to mark.
5. With engine running at idle, inspect all fittings for leaks. Shut off and re-torque if necessary.

Testing and verification
- Run the tractor under normal load (walk behind or short drive) while monitoring gearbox temp and looking for leaks.
- Re-check fluid level after the first hours of operation and again after 10 hours. Tighten clamps/fittings as they seat.
- If overheating persists, the cooler may be too small, blocked, or the gearbox producing excessive heat (worn bearings/clutches).

Common things that go wrong during repair (how to avoid)
- Cross-threading or over-tightening fittings: take care, start threads by hand. Don’t muscle fittings into tight if they resist.
- Forgetting to replace crush washers/old gaskets: causes leaks. Always use new seals.
- Contaminating gearbox: cover openings, clean tools and parts, and avoid letting dirt in.
- Overpressuring the core during testing: stick to low pressures (5–15 psi).
- Using inappropriate sealant on banjo bolts or crush-washer joints: use new copper washers; do not rely on PTFE tape inside hydraulic oil ports.
- Temporary fixes (epoxy) failing under heat: prefer replacements for critical components.

When to replace rather than repair
- Multiple leaks, severe corrosion, internal corrosion, or collapsed fins = replace.
- If core is aluminum and a leak is present and you lack brazing capability = replace.
- If hoses are very old/cracked = replace hoses even if cooler is sound.

Maintenance tips to avoid future repairs
- Regular oil changes and keep gearbox oil clean — contaminated oil accelerates clogging and wear.
- Inspect hoses and fittings every 50–100 hours of operation.
- Keep cooler fins free of mud, weeds and debris — clean gently with water or compressed air.
- Use correct oil and correct fill level.

Final checklist before you finish
- Drain plug tight.
- All fittings secure with new seals/washers where required.
- Hoses routed without kinks or chafe points and clamped firmly.
- Cooler mounted securely with vibration isolation if possible.
- Gearbox filled to correct level with recommended oil, primed and bled.
- No leaks at idle and after a short operating test.
- Re-check after first run and again after a few hours.

If you want parts or torque specs specific to the Massey Ferguson TE-20, consult the factory service manual or a reputable parts supplier for TE-20. Replacing the cooler core is often the most reliable long-term fix for corrosion or many leaks; hose/fitting replacement and flushing will solve most other problems.
rteeqp73

FERGUSON TE20 GREY FERGIE TED20 INSTRUCTION VIDEO www.catlowdycarriages.com FERGUSON TE20 GREY FERGIE TED20 INSTRUCTION VIDEO www.catlowdycarriages.com.

1948 Ferguson TE20 Doesn't want to run One of my neighbours has an old Ferguson that's giving him fits. Lets help him out and see what's going on with it.

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