Short version up front: the belt transfers engine rotation from the crank pulley to the fan, water pump and generator/dynamo by friction. If the belt is worn, loose, contaminated or misrouted you lose cooling and charging and you overheat or stall charging — replace it. Below is a clear, step-by-step beginner-friendly guide that describes every component you’ll touch, the theory, what can go wrong, and exactly how to change the belt safely.

1) What the system is and how it works (plain language + analogy)
- Crankshaft pulley (driver): the wheel bolted to the engine crankshaft. It’s the “pedal” on a bicycle that provides the power.
- Belt (V-belt or serpentine/multi-rib): a rubber loop that wraps around pulleys and transfers power by friction — like the rubber band on a toy that turns wheels.
- Fan pulley and fan: spins to move air through the radiator to cool the engine.
- Water pump pulley/pump: spins the impeller that circulates coolant through the engine and radiator.
- Generator/dynamo pulley (or alternator if converted): produces electrical current to charge the battery; it must spin to charge.
- Tensioner or adjuster (on TE‑20 typically a manual adjuster/pivot for the dynamo or an idler): provides the correct belt tightness so the belt doesn’t slip but isn’t so tight it kills bearings.
- Idler pulley(s) (if present): guide pulleys to route the belt path.

Theory in one paragraph: the belt sits in the grooves of pulleys. The V-shape bites into the pulley groove and transmits torque. Proper tension is essential: too loose → slipping, heat, glazing and no power to accessories; too tight → overloads bearings (water pump, generator, crank) and shortens their life. Alignment matters because misaligned pulleys force the belt to rub on edges and wear quickly.

2) Why this repair is needed (symptoms)
- Squealing at start or under load
- Overheating (fan/water pump not properly driven)
- Battery not charging (generator/alternator not turning effectively)
- Visible belt cracks, frays, glazing, or chunking
- Belt has oil or coolant contamination
Any of the above means replace the belt and inspect pulleys/tensioner.

3) Safety first (don’t skip these)
- Work on a cool engine.
- Park on level ground, block wheels, place transmission in neutral or park depending on model.
- Remove key and disconnect battery negative terminal to avoid accidental starts or shorts.
- Keep fingers/loose clothing away from the fan and pulleys; if you must run the engine for a test, stand clear and keep hands out of moving parts.
- Use eye protection and gloves.

4) Tools & supplies you’ll need
- Correct replacement belt (identify OEM part or measure old belt length)
- Socket/wrench set (spanners used on TE‑20 generator pivot nuts)
- Long pry bar or screwdriver (to relieve tension on manual adjusters)
- Straightedge or long ruler (for pulley alignment)
- Chalk or paint marker (to mark belt routing or old belt orientation)
- Rag, degreaser (if pulley contamination needs cleaning)
- Belt tension gauge (optional) — for most TE‑20 manual belts you can use a deflection check instead
- Penetrating oil (if pivot bolts are stiff)
- Torque wrench (if you have torque specs; if not, snug but not over-torque)

5) Inspect before removing (find the cause)
- Look for cracks across ribs, missing chunks, frayed edges, glazing (shiny, hard surface).
- Check pulleys: spin each pulley by hand (with belt off) — do they spin smoothly? Any rumble, noise, play or wobble? Replace bad bearings/damaged pulleys before fitting a new belt.
- Check pulley faces and grooves for scoring, sharp edges, rust build-up or a groove worn out of shape.
- Check generator/dynamo pivot and adjuster bolts for looseness or seized bolts.

6) Identify belt type on TE‑20 (important)
- Classic TE‑20s usually use a single V-belt (A/B/C cross-section style) that drives the fan/water pump and dynamo via a simple adjuster (not a modern serpentine with automatic tensioner).
- Some owners have retrofitted a modern multi-rib “serpentine” conversion. If you have a serpentine conversion, there will be a spring-loaded tensioner that you must pull to release tension.

If you’re not sure: remove the old belt and note cross-section. Buy the same style.

7) Step-by-step removal (manual adjuster / typical TE‑20 V-belt)
1. Remove battery negative cable.
2. Mark the belt routing with chalk or take a phone photo so you remember routing.
3. Locate the generator/dynamo pivot bolt and the adjuster (a slotted bar or curved slot where the generator pivots).
4. Loosen the pivot nut/bolt enough to free the generator so it can swing inward.
5. Loosen the adjuster bolt(s) that hold generator position in the slotted adjuster. On TE‑20 you usually turn an adjuster nut to move generator outward for tension — back it off (move generator inward) to relieve tension.
6. With tension relieved, slip the belt off the smallest pulley first (often the generator), then remove from the remaining pulleys.
7. Inspect the belt and pulleys again.

For a conversion with a spring-loaded serpentine tensioner:
- Use a long-handled wrench or tensioner tool on the tensioner arm; rotate the tensioner to relieve tension and slip the belt off one pulley. Release the tensioner slowly. Note routing.

8) Measure / buy the correct new belt
- If you kept the old belt intact, note numbers stamped on it and buy identical replacement.
- If old belt is gone or you’re measuring: you can wrap a length of rope around the routing path, mark the rope, then measure its length. Then match belt type and length with supplier or manual.
- Don’t substitute a different cross-section unless you’re certain the pulleys match.

9) Installation — routing and seating
- Route the new belt over all pulleys following the marked routing or photo. Start with the crank pulley and the longest spans first, leaving the tensioning pulley last.
- For manual-adjusted TE‑20: position the belt on all pulleys, then pivot the generator outward against the belt and tighten the adjuster nut slowly until the required tension is achieved. Tighten the pivot nut so the generator cannot move but still allows slight adjustment if needed.
- For serpentine: route per diagram, use the tensioner tool to move the tensioner, slip the belt over the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner to tension the belt.

10) How tight is “right”? (deflection method)
- Basic beginner rule: press firmly at the midpoint of the longest span (use your thumb or a moderate one-finger pressure). You should get a modest give — roughly 1/2 inch (about 10–15 mm) of deflection is a reasonable rule of thumb for many small tractor V-belts. If you can depress it several inches easily, it’s too loose. If it barely moves at all under firm thumb pressure, it’s too tight.
- Better: consult a belt tension chart or service manual for the TE‑20 if you want a precise spec. Over-tightening is a common mistake — it kills bearings.

11) Alignment check
- Lay a straightedge across adjacent pulley faces. All pulley faces where the belt rides should be coplanar. If any pulley is out of alignment, correct the mount or replace the pulley hardware. Misalignment causes rapid belt wear and side rubbing.

12) Tighten and verify
- Tighten pivot and adjuster bolts securely so the generator cannot creep under load.
- Reconnect battery negative.
- Start the engine and observe the belt at idle — it should run smoothly and quietly.
- Watch for slipping, wobble, or belt tracking off center.
- Run engine to normal operating temperature and re-check belt tension after it sits for a few minutes; belts can seat/calm slightly when warmed, and you may need a minor readjustment.

13) Break-in and re-check
- Check again after the first hour of run time. Re-inspect tension and pulley hardware and re-torque pivot nuts if needed.

14) Troubleshooting & what can go wrong (be proactive)
- Squealing at start only: usually loose belt, glazed belt, or oil on the belt. Clean pulleys, replace belt, set proper tension.
- Squealing constantly: wrong belt width/profile, misaligned pulleys, damaged pulley.
- Belt slips under load: too loose or contaminated; check water pump and generator bearings for drag.
- Belt walks off pulley: misalignment, damaged pulley flange, bent shaft, or belt too narrow.
- New belt fails early: wrong belt type or contaminated pulleys, rough pulley surface cutting the belt, threads or sharp burrs rubbing belt.
- Bearing failure after overtightening: if water pump or generator fail shortly after a very tight belt, you likely over-tensioned and damaged bearings.
- While installing, sudden fan blade contact or rotating parts can injure you — always disconnect battery and secure the engine before working.

15) Preventive checks to prolong belt life
- Keep pulleys clean and free of oil/grease.
- Replace belts before deep cracking appears.
- Ensure correct belt type and length.
- Check pulley bearings yearly and replace noisy ones.
- Keep the engine and cooling system in good repair (no leaks spattering oil onto belts).

16) Common beginner mistakes (avoid these)
- Using the old belt’s length measured under tension as a reference without slack — measure with belt off or use factory part number.
- Overtightening (kills bearings) or undertightening (slips).
- Forgetting to re-check after the first hot run.
- Not inspecting pulleys and bearings — a new belt on a bad pulley dies quickly.
- Confusing routing — always mark or photograph before taking off.

Final practical tips (quick list)
- If you have any doubt whether your TE‑20 has a serpentine kit or original setup, look at the belt cross section: a V-belt has a trapezoidal cross-section and sits in a V groove; a serpentine/multi-rib has many thin ribs. Replace like-for-like.
- Keep the old belt until you’ve driven it and confirmed the job is successful (for part number reference and as backup).
- When in doubt about torque specs or exact deflection numbers, follow the service manual for your exact TE‑20 year/model.

That’s it — follow the steps above and you’ll have the belt replaced, the pulleys inspected, and the system tested. Replace damaged pulleys or bearings before fitting a new belt, set moderate tension (not rock-hard), check alignment, and re-check after the first run. Safe wrenching.
rteeqp73

Vintage Thursday. Using a Ferguson tractor jack to change wheels. Changing the wheels on a 1951 Ferguson TEA 20 tractor Follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/cowfarmerdan/

How To Wire A Classic Tractor I hope this helps when it comes to rewiring your tractor. Good luck guys! I also got alittle off topic but the 340 Utility is coming along ...

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