1) Purpose and failure modes — theory first
- Function: the TE‑20 stabilizer (radius/stabilizer bar and its trunnions/bushes/pins) locates the front axle laterally relative to the frame, resists side‑to‑side oscillation, and transmits lateral/braking loads into the chassis so the axle tracks straight. It is a load path (beam + bearings) not just a cosmetic link.
- Common faults: worn bushings/pins or oval holes → lateral play and wander; cracked or bent bar → loss of stiffness and misalignment; seized or dry joints → fretting, accelerated wear; loose fasteners → intermittent lash and vibration.
- Repair goal: restore geometry, stiffness and bearing surfaces so lateral loads are carried through tight interfaces rather than through impact/metal‑to‑metal rubbing. That removes play, restores steering tracking, reduces vibration and prevents progressive wear.

2) Safety & setup (why)
- Put tractor on level ground, chock rear wheels, support front axle on stands so axle is supported in normal ride position. Theory: restoring clearances and alignment must be done with the axle in the loaded position; an unsupported axle gives false measurements and preloads.

3) Inspect and diagnose (how this isolates faults)
- Visual: look for cracks in the bar, brackets, welds; bent bar; loose or missing split pins/clips; broken grease nipples.
- Measure play: with wheel off ground and an assistant rocking the wheel laterally, feel for lash at stabilizer link; use a pry bar to see movement at pins. Theory: feel isolates whether play is at pin/bushing, at frame bracket, or in the bar itself.
- Measure wear: remove dust caps and measure pin diameter and bore inner diameter or use a caliper. Compare to new part specs or measure ovality. Theory: quantitative clearance tells you whether to re-bush or replace.

4) Remove components in order (why sequence matters)
- Remove clips/split pins, nuts, and retaining plates; withdraw pivot pins or bolts; remove stabilizer bar from brackets. If stuck, apply penetrating oil and tap out along the axis. Theory: removing retaining hardware first prevents unintended load transfer and keeps parts from binding and being damaged when you try to extract pins.

5) Disassemble and clean parts (why)
- Completely clean pins, bores, brackets and the bar. Remove rust, scale, and old grease. Theory: inspection and accurate measurement require clean surfaces; contamination masks cracks and leads to false fit judgments.

6) Inspect in detail (how to decide repair)
- Pins: check straightness and roundness. Bushings/bores: check for scoring, ovality, worn wall thickness. Bar: check for cracks (mag particle or dye penetrant if uncertain) and bent condition (runout on straightedge). Theory: deciding whether to re-bush, replace pin, or replace/weld bar depends on which element carries the majority of wear or damage; you must repair the weakest link.

7) Choose repair method (general guidance)
- Replace worn bushings with proper-size hardened bushings or bronze sleeve bushings and correct ID/OD. Theory: bushings restore a controlled bearing interface with predictable clearance and material hardness differences to minimize wear.
- Replace pins if out of round or bent. Theory: a bent/out‑of‑round pin will quickly destroy a new bushing and reintroduce play.
- Replace the stabilizer bar if bent or cracked. If welding is considered, due to cast/ductile cast materials on TE‑20, prefer replacement; welding cast parts needs preheat, controlled cooling and an experienced fabricator and may be weaker. Theory: a repaired weld can cause stress concentrations; full‑strength recovery is not guaranteed.

8) Fitment theory — interference and clearance
- Target clearance: the bearing clearance should be small and controlled. Typical practice is a running clearance on bushings of a few thousandths of an inch (0.05–0.3 mm depending on bushing spec). Measure pin OD and bushing ID; press-fit bushing into bracket so outer diameter is tight and the inner diameter provides the running clearance with the pin. Theory: tight outer fit keeps bushing concentric while small inner clearance prevents lash but allows lubrication film.

9) Press-in, machining and ream (why)
- If using bronze sleeves, press them into place, then ream to final ID for an accurate true bore concentric to the bracket. Theory: reaming ensures a straight, properly sized bore so the pin rotates without eccentricity — that is essential to eliminate play.

10) Replace/repair pins (why and how)
- Fit new pins (or true the old if within tolerance) and ensure they are the correct hardness and finish (smooth, free of burrs). Apply a light film of grease or anti‑seize specified by the manual. Theory: a smooth, hard pin combined with a lubricated bushing minimizes fretting and wear.

11) Reassembly sequence and preloads
- Assemble stabilizer into brackets with new bushings/pins, install retaining plates, nuts and new split pins. Torque nuts to the tractor manual spec; if manual torque is not available, tighten to produce slight preload but not so tight that the bushing is crushed and cannot rotate freely. Theory: correct torque clamps the joint so there is no axial movement but preserves the running clearance; under‑torque leaves play, over‑torque destroys the bearing.

12) Lubrication and corrosion protection (why)
- Grease all nipples; if none exist, apply appropriate lubricant to contact surfaces and use light oil or grease on external parts to prevent rust. Theory: lubrication produces a hydrodynamic or boundary film that takes loads off metal asperities. It also limits corrosion that would quicken wear.

13) Weld/crack repairs (if unavoidable) — theory and cautions
- For simple repairable failures (small cracked brackets), remove and have a skilled welder assess base metal. Preheat cast ferrous parts, use appropriate filler, and control cooling to avoid new cracks. Prefer mechanical replacement where possible. Theory: welded repairs restore continuity but introduce residual stresses and potential material mismatch; mechanical replacement maintains original metallurgy and fatigue life.

14) Alignment and final checks (why)
- With axle in normal position, check lateral center/track and steering geometry; check for binding through full steering travel. Recheck fastener torque after initial run (100–200 miles/first use). Theory: a proper repair realigns the axle; re-torquing compensates for any seating of bushings and prevents recurrence of looseness.

15) Road/field test and verification of fault fixed (how the repair solves the problem)
- Test drive and verify: no lateral lash at wheel, straight tracking, reduced vibration, and even tire wear pattern over time. If the original symptom was play, replacing worn bushings/pins removes the gap that allowed lateral movement; replacing a bent bar restores centroid and stiffness so loads are distributed symmetrically; lubrication and correct torque prevent re-occurrence by reducing fretting and limiting relative motion.
- Theory summary: the stabilizer system works by transmitting lateral loads through tight, predictable contact surfaces. Repair replaces degraded contact geometry (bushed surfaces, pins, structural bar) so loads are transferred as designed rather than through intermittent impact, which is the root cause of wander, vibration and accelerated wear.

Key practical notes (concise)
- Always use parts sized for TE‑20 (bushings, pins) or specified equivalents. Improper materials or oversize clearances will fail quickly.
- Ream/finish bores after pressing new sleeves for true alignment.
- If uncertain about welding cast parts, replace rather than weld.
- Recheck torques and greasing after initial operation.

This sequence diagnoses the failure, restores correct bearing surfaces and structural stiffness, and ensures lubrication and preload — together eliminating the play, misalignment and vibration that were the original faults.
rteeqp73

#51 Ferguson TED20 - Transmission Case #1 Back to the Fergie! It's been a long time, but we've finally made some progress on the Ferguson TED20. In this part 1 of 2, Oscar ...

Harry painted the tractor! Harry painted the Ferguson tef20 with grey undercoat and a brush! Visit https://www.growerexperts.com/YouTube for more great ...

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