Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Basic hand tools: 10–24 mm sockets, ratchet, extensions, box wrenches, screwdrivers, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm or 0–150 ft·lb).
- Allen/hex and Torx set as needed.
- Pry bar, rubber mallet.
- Gear puller / sprocket puller (for cam/crank sprocket if gear-mounted).
- Camshaft bearing installer / driver (if bearings are replaced).
- Seal driver or appropriate-size socket (for camshaft oil seal).
- Feeler gauges, plastigage (for clearance checks).
- Dial indicator & magnetic base (to measure cam endplay / valve lift if required).
- Engine support or hoist if lifting engine or motor mounts removed.
- Drain pans, shop rags, parts trays, marking paint/tape/marker.
- Assembly lube (moly-based), engine oil for priming, gasket sealant.
- New gaskets and replacement parts (see list below).
- Factory Service Manual (strongly recommended for specs & sequences).

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface, engine cool. Disconnect negative battery. Relieve fuel pressure (diesel system) and isolate fuel lines per manual.
- Drain engine oil and coolant into proper containers before removing covers or timing components.
- Support engine/transmission if you remove mounts. Use engine hoist or suitable stands; don’t rely on a jack under oil pan alone.
- Keep the work area clean; contamination will kill cam journals/lifters.
- Wear eye/hand protection. Dispose fluids per local regs.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Camshaft (if worn or damaged).
- Camshaft oil seal(s), O-rings, timing cover gasket, valve cover gasket.
- Timing gears/sprockets and timing chain/belt (recommended to replace when cam removed).
- Camshaft thrust plate (if applicable) and bolts.
- Cam bearings (if scored) or replacement liners.
- Lifters/tappets (hydraulic lifters often replaced as a set), pushrods (replace if bent/worn), rocker arms or pads if worn.
- Valve cover bolts (sometimes replace), seals.
- Engine oil, oil filter, coolant (if drained).
Always purchase Toyota OEM parts or quality aftermarket parts; consult the FSM for part numbers.

Overview of the task
On the 1DZ-II the cam is in the block (pushrod OHV layout). Procedure covers removing accessory components, timing drive, lifters/pushrods, and camshaft removal, then inspection and reinstallation with timing reassembly and proper torques and endplay checks.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Read the Toyota 1DZ-II Service Manual section on camshaft/timing. Lay out parts trays and label removed parts in sequence.
- Disconnect negative battery. Drain engine oil and coolant.

2) Remove external components
- Remove air intake ducting, turbo/intercooler plumbing (if applicable), alternator, belts, and any accessories blocking valve cover and timing cover.
- Remove valve cover(s) and set aside. Remove rocker arm assembly (retain in order, mark each shaft/arm to reinstall in same location).

3) Remove pushrods and lifters
- Remove pushrods carefully, keeping each pushrod with its original location (mark/cupboard). Remove lifters (hydraulic or solid). Keep lifters indexed to their bores and store upright in clean cups with oil to avoid contamination.

4) Expose timing drive
- Remove timing cover(s) to expose crank and cam sprockets/gears. Note and mark timing alignment marks before disassembly. If the cam is gear-driven, be prepared to remove the front gear; if chain-driven, remove chain tensioner and chain.
- Use marking paint/tape to mark relative positions if manual doesn’t require cam locking pin. NEVER disturb timing alignment marks until ready to re-time.

5) Lock engine at TDC
- Rotate crank to TDC on #1 compression stroke and verify alignment marks. Lock the crank if your manual provides a locking pin; this prevents crank movement during cam removal.

6) Remove timing sprocket/gear & drive components
- Remove crank sprocket if necessary and then cam sprocket/gear. Use a proper puller on sprockets (do not pry on the cam gear). If gear is keyed, observe key and mark orientation.
- If the camshaft drive uses a chain and tensioner, remove tensioner and chain. Keep parts clean and mark orientation.

7) Remove camshaft thrust plate / retaining bolts
- Remove camshaft thrust plate or retaining bolt arrangement (if present). Keep bolts in order and note orientation. Inspect thrust surface and bolts for wear.

8) Remove camshaft
- Slide the camshaft rearward out of the block carefully, supporting the lobes and journals. Work slowly and keep camshaft level to avoid nicking bearings. If bearing caps or liners are present, remove per FSM first.
- Place camshaft on clean padded surface. Cap journals with shop rags if reusing.

Inspection
- Inspect cam lobes and journals for scoring, pitting or flattening.
- Inspect lifter faces and pushrod ends for wear.
- Measure camshaft journal diameters and lobes with micrometer and compare to spec in FSM; check cam endplay with dial indicator if required.
- Inspect cam bearings/liners. If damaged, they must be replaced using a bearing installer tool.

Reinstallation (general)
9) Prepare new or cleaned camshaft
- If replacing, ensure new cam is OEM/correct part. Coat journals and lobes with assembly lube before installation.

10) Install camshaft
- Slide camshaft into block carefully, aligning journal and lobes. Do not force. Make sure thrust plate seats properly.
- Install camshaft thrust plate/retaining bolts finger-tight initially. Torque to specified sequence and torque value in the FSM.

11) Install timing sprocket/chain/gear
- Reinstall cam sprocket/chain and crank sprocket, aligning timing marks precisely. If you removed the keyway, ensure key fits and gear aligns.
- Reinstall timing chain tensioner per FSM, preloading if required. Replace tensioner if worn. Replace timing chain and sprockets as a matched set whenever cam is out — common and recommended practice.

12) Reinstall lifters, pushrods, rocker assembly
- Reinstall lifters in their original bores (or new lifters in new matched positions if lifters replaced). Reinstall pushrods and rocker arms in original order.
- Set valve lash or preload per FSM: for hydraulic lifters, they generally self-adjust but preloading/bleed procedure may be required. For adjustable rocker arms, set to spec.

13) Rotate and check timing/clearances
- Rotate engine by hand (2 full revolutions minimum) and recheck timing marks and valve contacts. Verify there is no interference, and lifters/pushrods operate smoothly.
- Check cam endplay and journal oil clearance (plastigage if replacing bearings). Re-torque cam plate bolts after initial run-in per FSM intervals if required.

14) Reassemble covers & accessories
- Install new cam oil seal(s) using seal driver. Replace timing cover gasket and valve cover gasket. Reinstall all removed accessories, belts, hoses, and refill engine oil and coolant.
- Reconnect battery.

15) Start-up & break-in checks
- Prime oiling system if possible (crank without starting to build oil pressure). Start engine and monitor for unusual noises, leaks, oil pressure, and check for proper idling.
- Recheck torque on cam bolts after initial warm-up per FSM if specified. Change oil/filter after break-in interval if recommended.

Tool usage details & tips
- Torque wrench: follow FSM torque sequence and values. Tighten bolts in specified incremental pattern to avoid warping thrust plate or covers.
- Gear puller: center puller on sprocket; pull straight. Protect sprocket face with wood block if necessary to avoid damage.
- Seal driver: use an appropriately sized driver/socket to press seal evenly; do not cock the seal—drive it flat to the block face.
- Dial indicator: mount on a solid area and measure cam endplay by pushing cam fore-aft; compare to FSM spec.
- Plastigage: place strip on journal, torque bearing cap to spec, remove cap and measure compressed width. Use to verify oil clearance.
- Bearing installer: if replacing bearings, use driver sized to the bearing. Press bearings evenly, then measure runout/clearance.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Losing timing alignment: mark and photograph timing marks; use crank locking tools where applicable. Do not rotate engine with cam removed beyond what the manual allows.
- Mixing lifters/pushrods: always keep lifters and pushrods in original bores/orientation — swapping can lead to rapid wear and noise.
- Contaminating cam journals: dirt or metal chips will score journals quickly. Keep parts covered and clean.
- Reusing worn timing chain/sprockets: they should be replaced as a set — reuse risks rapid failure or timing jump.
- Improper torque or sequence on thrust plate/bolts: can cause cam endplay issues or thrust face damage. Use FSM torque specs & sequence.
- Not using assembly lube: cam lobes and lifters must have lube before first start or you risk immediate wear.
- Damaging cam seal when installing cam or sprocket: use seal driver, not hammering on the seal lip.
- Not replacing seals/gaskets: always replace cam seal, timing cover gasket, and valve cover gasket to prevent leaks.
- Ignoring endplay and clearances: incorrect endplay causes thrust wear; incorrect journal clearance causes oiling issues and wear.

Final notes
- Exact torque values, clearance specifications, timing mark orientation, and any locking tool pin locations are model-year and serial-number dependent — use the Toyota 1DZ-II factory service manual for those numbers and special tool part numbers.
- Replace wear items (timing chain/gears, seals, lifters) while you have access — preventive replacement saves rework.

That’s the complete technician procedure. Follow the FSM for torque and clearance specifications.
rteeqp73

Toyota 1DZ-II Engine Dismantling HD Dismantling Engine Toyota 1DZ-II for hard starting problem #Toyotà1DZ-II EngineDismantling #tapdasanvlogs @Tapdasan Vlogs ...

TOYOTA 1DZ-II ENGINE | INJECTION PUMP TIMING

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