The Toyota 1HZ is an engine developed by Toyota Motor Corporation for the Toyota Land Cruiser and the Toyota Coaster Bus of 1990. It replaced the previous (2H) heavy duty engine which was being used in older Toyota Land Cruiser models. This engine generates more power and torque than previous diesel Toyota Land Cruiser engine. Despite being 25 years old, the 1HZ still sees use in Landcruiser 70 Series production worldwide with the exception of Petrol-only markets and Euro 4 and Australian markets, where the 1GR-FE and 1VD-FTV Turbo-Diesel is supplied respectively. A popular engine in the 80 series Land Cruiser and replacing the 70/75 series 2H in 1990.
If you run a Toyota Land Cruiser with the 1HZ engine, you will know two things about it: It’s very reliable and, it could do with more horses to help it along. If you agree, read on…
As reliable as the 1HZ engine is, it can be broken! I have owned four 1HZ Land Cruisers and of the four, only one of them wasn’t underpowered… because I turbo-charged it. But this is not as simple as it seems.
The trouble with the 1HZ is that it was never designed for being turbo-charged and when Toyota did build a turbo-charged version of it, they made some major changes to the piston design. They did this because the standard pistons have very thin crowns, and what this means is that the high-pressures created by a turbo can, and in most cases will, blow a hole in the top of one of the pistons. I say in most cases because after-market turbo suppliers cannot help themselves in trying to get the most power increase so that they can boast about their achievements and sell more turbos. This has lead to blown pistons, but by then, in most cases the warranty has expired.
Overheating is another issue. Some Land Cruisers like the 105 wagon have huge radiators, and can handle turbo-charging without problems. But the 70-series Cruisers do not, so one has to be more careful, or add intercoolers. But the moment there are intercoolers and oil coolers, the entire modification begins to get over-complicated and the legendary reliability of the 1HZ begins to diminish.
I looked for three years at all the turbo chargers available, and there are several of them, and to the surprise of many in the 4×4 world, chose the one that is the cheapest. Not because of the money saving but because I believe it will have the least effect on reliability, which to me is more important than the extra power being delivered. It is made by SAC. I have now run it for 40 000kms, done five expeditions and no issues whatsoever.
The SAC turbo is simple! And this is what I love about it. Some who look at the installation suggest that it’s crude. Yes, I suppose it is. The turbo induction pipe has no elegant bend (it’s a squared off tube at an inefficient 90° angle) and there are no expensive look-good components to woo buyers. The turbo charger is controlled by a simple spring, that opens the waste-gate at approximately 0,7-bar. Anything above 0,9-bar for long periods, the Toyota engineers tell me, will blow one of the pistons within 100 000-kms for sure. They reckon, without having done any lab tests, that at 0,7-bar, I am absolutely safe, as long as the exhaust gas temperatures don’t peak, too often.
That brings me onto an addition, which surprisingly SAC does not offer, and that is an EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge that warns me when temperatures peak. Anything above 700°C for more than a minute or two will damage the turbo-charger and eventually the valves. Temperatures peak on long hills at high speed exaggerated by high ambient temperatures. One of the ways to reduce EGTs is to replace the exhaust with a larger-bore one, with a more efficient exhaust manifold. What this does it let the hot gasses escape easier, and cools it down faster. SAC also offers a head work, where they grind the head, allowing the engine to breathe more efficiently. I have not tried this so cannot report on the power increase or temperature decrease, but my gut tells me it may not be worth the expense, even though some improvement are probable.
So, in conclusion, if you are thinking of turbo-charging your 1HZ, avoid the turbo-makers who boast of the most power output, because truth is, it’s easy to get lots more power out of this engine, but at a huge cost to reliability. Look for one who’s focus is adding more power but are prepared to compensate power output for reliability. My SAC turbo adds an extra 22kW power output and I cannot remember how much extra torque but the improvement in overtaking performance, which is where the 1HZ seriously lacks, is excellent. Not earth-shattering, but it makes this a much, much nicer vehicle to drive. And the turbo-whine creates a nice, reassuring whizz that I really like.
Fuel consumption has increased. Pre-turbo I achieved a better than average 12L/100kms from my 1HZ. Now I get about 14L/100kms and can creep to 16L/100 kms on long stretches with a heavy load and bulky roof-rack… Still far better than the similar petrol engined vehicle and still acceptable. But the old saying applies here: If you have more horses, they have to be fed.
The Toyota 1HZ is a 4.20 l (4,164 cc, 254.1 cu-in) six cylinders, four-stroke cycle water-cooled naturally aspirated internal combustion diesel engine, manufactured by the Toyota Motor Corporation.
The 1HZ engine has a cast iron cylinder block with 94 mm (3.7 in) cylinder bores and a 100 mm (3.94 in) piston stroke. Compression ratio rating was 22.7:1. In 1998, the 1HZ engine received a reinforced cylinder block and crankshaft, new pistons and glow plugs, the compression was reduced to 22.4:1. Since 2002 the engine is equipped with an EGR system.
The motor has a cast iron cylinder head with the single overhead camshaft (SOHC) with two valves per cylinder and indirect injection design.
1) Overview — what a Transmission Control Module (TCM) does (theory)
- Function: reads inputs (vehicle speed sensors, input/output shaft speed, throttle/accelerator position or vacuum/throttle valve, brake switch, selector position, engine ECU data, battery/ignition) then runs shift logic stored in firmware/EEPROM and drives outputs (shift solenoids, pressure control/line pressure solenoids, torque‑converter lockup) via power transistors or relay drivers.
- Failure modes: loss of power/ground, corroded connectors, broken PCB traces, failed voltage regulator, failed MCU/EEPROM, blown output transistors/MOSFETs from shorted solenoids, failed driver components, bad solder joints, electrolytic capacitor failure, software/data corruption or communication faults.
- How repair works in general: restore correct supply rails and signals, restore reliable data/firmware, repair or replace driver components, and correct connector/harness faults so the TCM can again read sensors and apply correct current/pulse widths to solenoids to produce correct hydraulic pressures and shifts.
2) Diagnostic order (theory + why it matters)
1. Capture symptoms and codes: read TCM/DTCs from vehicle (OBD or factory scanner). Theory: codes narrow subsystem (power, sensor, solenoid, EEPROM). Fix: targets the right component.
2. Visual & connector inspection: battery off; inspect connector pins for corrosion, bent pins, burnt/plastic deformation. Theory: poor contact or high-resistance connection changes supply/signal voltages, causing intermittent or failed operation. Fix: cleaning/repair restores electrical continuity and correct voltages.
3. Power/Ground checks at TCM connector: with ignition on, measure battery voltage at power pin(s) and good chassis/ground continuity. Theory: MCU and drivers require stable 12 V and reference ground; regulator needs input. Fix: replacing blown fuses, rewiring grounds or repairing harness restores power so electronics can function.
4. Measure supply rails and regulator outputs on module: check main 12 V, 5 V (or regulator) and any analog supply. Theory: digital logic runs at regulated voltage; unstable/absent rail causes erratic behavior or no function. Fix: replace regulator or filter components to re-establish correct rails.
5. Check solenoid coil resistances and harness continuity: unplug transmission harness, measure coil ohms, and backprobe from TCM pins to solenoids. Theory: shorted or open coils change driver load — short can blow MOSFETs; open prevents actuation. Fix: replace faulty solenoid or clear short so TCM outputs are not overloaded.
6. Current/drive tests: with known-good solenoids or dummy loads, apply test conditions and observe driver outputs (voltage/PWM, current). Use oscilloscope for PWM shape. Theory: driver should produce correct PWM frequency and duty to control pressure. Fix: if driver MOSFETs fail, replace them so correct PWM can be produced.
7. Check communication lines (if present): CAN bus voltage, termination and ECU communications. Theory: missing CAN prevents coordinated control. Fix: repair bus/terminations or replace TCM if bus interface damaged.
8. Internal PCB inspection: open TCM housing; inspect for cold solder joints, cracked traces, burnt components, swollen caps, corrosion. Theory: vibration and heat cause microcracks and component degradation leading to intermittent faults. Fix: reflow/solder, replace components or traces to restore circuits.
9. Firmware/EEPROM check: if data corrupted (DTCs show EEPROM errors) or module fails self-tests, EEPROM or MCU may need reprogramming or replacement. Theory: shift maps and calibration live in EEPROM; corruption causes wrong shift logic. Fix: restore correct firmware/data to recover proper shift behavior.
3) Repair steps in order (practical sequence + why each fixes the fault)
1. Safety and preparation: disconnect battery negative, ESD wrist strap, document connector pinouts, photograph wiring. Why: protects electronics and avoids shorts.
2. Clear and record fault codes. Why: verifies before/after and guides repair focus.
3. Remove module and connectors: gently release lock tabs; inspect and clean with contact cleaner. Why: restores mechanical/electrical contact and reveals hidden damage.
4. Repair harness/connector faults first: replace corroded pins, repair burnt wires and grounds, ensure fuses intact. Why: most common cause — restoring reliable supply and signal path often fixes symptoms without opening module.
5. Bench power-up and rail check: with bench power (12 V through correct pins, fused) measure regulator outputs and internal supply rails, check for excessive quiescent current. Why: identifies failed regulators, shorted outputs or internal shorts before powering delicate logic.
6. Measure and compare solenoid coil resistances and back-drive from TCM connector. Why: determines if external load caused internal driver damage; isolate whether fault is in solenoid or TCM.
7. Inspect PCB visually and under magnification: look for cracked solder joints (often on large components/IC pins), blown components, ruptured electrolytics, cracked traces or corrosion. Why: these are direct causes of open or intermittent circuits.
8. Reflow suspicious solder joints with controlled heat or hot air; replace cracked connectors/pads with pins or solder bridges. Why: reflow restores proper electrical contact lost by thermal cycling/vibration.
9. Replace failed discrete components: voltage regulator, power MOSFETs/transistors, driver ICs, diodes, burned resistors, electrolytic capacitors. Use same/equivalent parts and observe thermal ratings. Why: driver MOSFETs control current to solenoids; replacing them restores driving ability; caps/regulator stabilize rails and logic.
10. Repair traces and ground planes: bridge with enameled wire or copper tape where necessary; re-solder ground via holes. Why: restores low-resistance return paths and prevents voltage drops that cause erratic behavior.
11. Replace or reprogram EEPROM/MCU if corrupted and if your tooling supports it. If firmware is not recoverable, module replacement may be required. Why: correct shift logic and calibration values are required for proper shift timing and pressures.
12. Clean PCB and reassemble housing using new gasket or sealant to preserve moisture resistance. Why: prevents recurrent corrosion and shorts.
13. Bench functional test: simulate inputs (speed pulses, ignition, selector, brake), or reinstall and use live vehicle diagnostics to force solenoids while monitoring current and PWM waveform. Confirm no overheating and correct responses. Why: verifies repairs under controlled conditions and prevents re-installation of faulty module.
14. Reinstall, clear codes, perform drive test through all gears under load, monitor parameters. Why: ensures hydraulic and electronic systems interact correctly; self-adapting transmissions may relearn.
4) How specific repairs fix common symptoms (concise mapping)
- Symptom: no power to TCM, no shifting — Cause: blown fuse/poor connector/failed regulator. Repair: fix fuse/connector/regulator. Effect: restores supply so MCU/outputs function.
- Symptom: stuck in limp mode or only some gears — Cause: failed EEPROM/firmware or communication loss. Repair: restore EEPROM/firmware or repair CAN. Effect: corrects shift logic and allows full gear use.
- Symptom: harsh or late shifts — Cause: PWM driver partially failing, leaking solenoid, bad capacitors causing poor supply smoothing. Repair: replace MOSFETs, caps, or solenoid. Effect: restores correct PWM and pressure control; shifting returns to calibrated timing.
- Symptom: TCM overheating or high current draw — Cause: shorted solenoid or blown driver transistor. Repair: replace shorted solenoid or MOSFET and any blown fuses; check harness for shorts. Effect: removes overload so drivers operate within spec.
- Symptom: intermittent faults — Cause: cold solder joints, cracked traces, corroded pins. Repair: reflow joints, repair traces, replace pins. Effect: stabilizes connections and removes intermittent open-circuits.
5) Practical measurement targets (use service manual where available)
- Battery at connector with ignition ON: ~12 V nominal.
- Regulated logic rail: usually 5 V (check module spec).
- Solenoid coil DC resistance: typically low tens of ohms (range varies by gearbox; compare to service spec). Large deviations indicate open/short.
- Driver PWM: expected frequency typically a few hundred Hz to a few kHz depending on solenoid type; waveform should be clean, not collapsed.
Use these as comparative checks; always verify exact values from Toyota service literature for the transmission model you have.
6) Final notes (concise)
- Always start with harness/connector/power/ground checks — they fix a large percentage of faults.
- Replace components only after confirming failure modes (measurements, short tests). Replacing MCU or EEPROM is advanced and may require specialized programming.
- If module shows extensive MCU/EEPROM damage or you cannot reprogram, module replacement or sourcing a donor module and programming it to vehicle may be required.
- Follow ESD precautions, torque/fastener and sealing specs, and clear codes & relearn procedures after repair.
That is the ordered theory-plus-repair sequence and how each repair action addresses the fault. rteeqp73