- Safety and prep (do this first)
- Park on a perfectly flat, level surface and chock the rear wheels. Use wheel chocks on both sides of at least one rear wheel.
- Mark the steering wheel straight with tape so you can return it to center after turning the steering during work.
- Check and set tire pressures to the vehicle’s spec (pressure affects alignment). Inflate to the same pressure on all four tires.
- Remove heavy loads from the vehicle and have the fuel tank at a typical level — alignment is done with the vehicle at normal ride height.
- Have a factory service manual or a printout of alignment specs for your specific Toyota chassis (1HZ/1PZ/1HD-T are engines used in different Land Cruiser/Prado models). Use those exact specs for final settings.

- Basic inspection (do before trying to align anything)
- Check tire condition and wear pattern (inner/outer wear tells you what’s wrong).
- Check for play in steering/suspension components: jack up the front, support on jack stands at the frame, grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock and push/pull to check tie rod play; grab at 12 and 6 to check ball joints/wheel bearings.
- Inspect tie rod end boots, rack boots, ball joint boots, control arm bushings, track/drag link, pitman/idler arms for torn boots, grease loss, rust, or visible damage.
- If you find any play, bangs, or torn boots, those parts must be replaced before alignment.

- What alignment means (brief)
- Toe: the front-to-back difference between the leading and trailing edges of the front wheels — this is the one you can reliably adjust yourself on most vehicles.
- Camber: the tilt of the wheel inward/outward at the top — sometimes adjustable, sometimes fixed depending on suspension type.
- Caster: the steering pivot angle that affects straight-line stability — often requires special adjustments (shims or adjustable arms) or professional alignment equipment to correct precisely.

- Tools you need and how to use each (detailed)
- Floor jack
- Description: heavy-duty hydraulic scissor or trolley jack for lifting the vehicle.
- Use: position under manufacturer lift point and raise the vehicle; always set on solid level ground. Do not rely on jack alone — use jack stands.
- Jack stands
- Description: adjustable stands that support the vehicle safely once lifted.
- Use: place under the frame or rated lift point and lower vehicle onto them. Never work under a car supported only by the jack.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: wedge blocks (rubber or metal) that stop wheels from rolling.
- Use: block the wheels diagonally opposite the side you’re working on and always use them when the vehicle is raised.
- Torque wrench
- Description: calibrated wrench that clicks at set torque.
- Use: to tighten suspension fasteners to factory torque specs after adjustments. This prevents loose or over-tightened bolts.
- Standard hand tools (sockets, ratchet, combination wrenches, breaker bar)
- Description: common socket set (metric), wrenches, and a breaker bar for stubborn nuts.
- Use: remove and loosen jam nuts and steering/tie-rod nuts. Use correct-size sockets/wrenches to avoid rounding nuts.
- Tape measure (or two)
- Description: 3–6 m tape measure, metric and imperial markings useful.
- Use: measure distances for toe using the string or tape method; measure between known points on rims.
- Straightedge or long level / marker
- Description: long straight bar or carpenter’s level.
- Use: to help check wheel toe visually or keep a string aligned in the string method.
- Tie rod sleeve wrench / adjustable pliers
- Description: open-ended wrench sized to the adjuster sleeve and jam nuts; locking pliers useful to hold the sleeve.
- Use: hold the tie-rod sleeve and turn the tie rod end to change length — this changes toe.
- Toe plates (recommended) or simple homemade toe plates (flat plates with a vertical edge)
- Description: metal or wooden plates that sit flush against the rim; often have measurement marks.
- Use: place against wheel and measure distance from plate to plate front and back to determine toe.
- Camber/caster gauge (bubble type or digital)
- Description: portable gauge that clamps to the wheel or hub and shows camber/caster angles.
- Use: attach per the gauge instructions to read camber; some gauges also read caster. Gives a quick check of angles.
- String kit (optional but cheap and effective)
- Description: two strings and four clamps that run around the outside of the tires at hub height to create a reference line.
- Use: set strings parallel to vehicle centerline and measure from string to rim front and rear to calculate toe.
- Turn plates (optional)
- Description: plates wheel sits on that allow the wheel to pivot freely for caster checks.
- Use: place under front wheels so wheels can turn easily during measurements.
- Penetrating oil, hammer, pry bar
- Description: for freeing seized nuts and making small adjustments.
- Use: apply penetrating oil to nuts, use pry bar carefully to set control arms while adjusting.
- Ball joint separator / tie rod end puller (required if replacing parts)
- Description: pickle fork or press-style puller to separate ball joints/tie rods.
- Use: separate worn tie rod ends/ball joints for replacement safely.
- Pitman arm puller (if replacing pitman/drag link)
- Description: special puller tool for removing pitman arm.
- Use: used when replacing pitman arm or drag link components.
- Ball joint press or control arm bushing tool (if replacing those parts)
- Description: hydraulic or threaded press to remove/fit pressed-in joints/bushings.
- Use: required for ball joint/control arm bushing replacement; shop may be needed for this.

- How to measure and set toe (basic string or tape method you can do as a beginner)
- Prep: wheels straight, steering locked center, vehicle on level surface, front at ride height, tires inflated.
- Method using toe plates or tape:
- Place toe plates (or flat boards) against the front of both front rims and then against the rear edge of the rims.
- Measure the distance between the two plates at the front of the rims and then measure the distance at the rear of the rims.
- Toe = front distance − rear distance (positive = toe-out, negative = toe-in if you define it that way). Your factory spec will say total toe or toe per wheel.
- To adjust: loosen the jam nuts on the tie-rod ends and rotate the tie-rod or sleeve. One end in, the other out changes length; turning the tie rod changes toe. Make small equal adjustments both sides as needed to meet spec.
- After each change, re-tighten jam nuts to torque spec and re-check measurements.
- Method using string:
- Run a string around the outside of the front and rear wheels at hub height using blocks/clamps to hold the string parallel to the car centerline.
- Measure from string to rim at front and rear of the front wheels; adjust tie rods until the difference equals the desired toe.
- How to use the tie-rod tools: hold the inner tie-rod or sleeve steady with a wrench and turn the outer tie-rod end with another wrench; if you have an adjuster sleeve, turn it. Keep track of how many turns and the same direction on both sides.

- How to check camber and caster (overview — these often need specific adjustments)
- Camber:
- Attach the camber gauge to the wheel or hub per gauge instructions.
- Read the camber angle and compare to spec.
- Adjustment depends on vehicle: some vehicles have eccentric bolts on control arms, or slotted mounting holes, or adjustable cam bolts. Loosen the mount and move the arm/camber bolt until in spec, then torque to spec.
- If camber is non-adjustable and out of spec, worn bushings, bent control arms, or frame damage may be the cause and will require replacement or shimming.
- Caster:
- Read with a caster/camber gauge while turning the wheel to the specified angle (gauge instructions vary).
- Adjusting caster commonly requires shims under spring perches (solid axles), adjustable control arms, or offset bushings on independent front suspensions.
- Because caster often requires spring removal, shimming, or specialized adjustable arms, many beginners hand this to a shop unless there’s a simple bolt-eccentric adjustment on the model.
- Important: If you change camber or caster, re-check toe afterward — changes affect toe.

- When replacement is required (what to replace and why)
- Tie rod ends / inner tie rods / drag link / center link
- Why: play (looseness), torn boots, grease loss, sloppy steering, uneven tire wear.
- Replacement effect: necessary — worn tie rods will prevent holding toe and make alignment impossible.
- Tools required: tie rod puller/pickle fork, wrenches, torque wrench.
- Ball joints
- Why: excessive vertical or lateral play, clunking, uneven wear.
- Replacement effect: loose ball joints change camber/caster under load and are unsafe.
- Tools required: ball joint press or a shop; replacement often requires some specialty tools.
- Control arm bushings
- Why: cracked, soft, or moved bushings cause alignment to drift and steering instability.
- Replacement effect: worn bushings allow arms to move and change geometry; replace to hold alignment.
- Tools required: bushing press or mechanical/heat methods; often better done at a shop unless you have a press.
- Track bar / panhard rod
- Why: worn bushings or bent rod move axle laterally causing alignment problems.
- Replacement effect: necessary if bent to locate axle correctly.
- Pitman arm / idler arm (parallelogram steering)
- Why: wear produces steering wander and incorrect toe under load.
- Replacement effect: required if loose; pullers needed.
- Shims
- Why: used to adjust caster on leaf-sprung solid axles.
- Replacement effect: simple and inexpensive way to correct caster, but requires lifting the axle and loosening/retorquing spring U-bolts.
- Shocks and springs
- Why: sagging springs or worn shocks change ride height and geometry.
- Replacement effect: restore correct ride height so alignment geometry is correct.

- Common signs that parts must be replaced (don’t align before replacing)
- Steering feels loose or wanders
- Excessive or cupped tire wear
- Clunking noises over bumps
- Torn rubber boots on tie rods/ball joints
- Visible play when you rock the wheel or lever the tie rod/ball joint

- Torque and repeat checks
- Always torque suspension fasteners to factory spec after making adjustments with a calibrated torque wrench.
- Drive vehicle for 10–20 km at normal speed after alignment, then recheck toe and fastener torque (bushings settle and can change settings).
- Recheck after 100–200 km again.

- When to go to a professional shop (recommended for beginners in specific cases)
- If camber or caster adjustments require shims under spring perches, removal of springs, pressed-in bushings, or bent/broken components.
- If you do not have a camber/caster gauge or accurate toe plates/string setup and want precise factory settings.
- If you find worn ball joints, pressed-in bushings, or bent arms (tools and experience required).
- Professional alignment shops have lift-mounted turntables and electronic gauges that set toe, camber, caster and thrust angle precisely.

- Typical alignment specs (very general — always use factory specs for your exact vehicle)
- Toe (total): near zero; commonly 0 to +2 mm total toe-in (0–1/16 inch).
- Camber: near 0° ± 1° (varies by model).
- Caster: typically 2°–6° positive (varies a lot by model).
- Note: these are approximate ranges — use the Toyota spec for your chassis.

- Final notes (short and practical)
- Never try to lock steering with the wheels turned and then torque steering parts — always set wheels straight, then torque.
- If you’re missing a tool (camber gauge, toe plates), basic toe correction via tape/string can be adequate, but camber/caster corrections usually need more gear or a shop.
- Replace worn steering or suspension parts before alignment — alignment without fixing worn parts is wasted effort.
- After any part replacement, always get a final check on a professional alignment rack if you want precise handling and tire life.

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73

Land cruiser 1HZ 1HDT 1PZ Valve shim adjustment tutorial A "how to" on how to adjust the valve shims on your toyota land cruiser with 1HZ and 1HDT engine, but will work on other as well.

Land cruiser 1HZ 1HDT 1PZ Valve shim adjustment tutorial A "how to" on how to adjust the valve shims on your toyota land cruiser with 1HZ and 1HDT engine, but will work on other as well.

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13568-19195-2 Timing Belt Toyota 1HDT/1HZ 92MR25 ... Teeth Profile ... machine learning vs deep learning examples Suits: Toyota Land Cruiser HDJ80, HDJ81 & other models with the engines listed above with the earlier 94 tooth belt with the 1HDT engine. This kit also fits the 1HZ, and 1PZ engine using the 94T belt, but contains a turbo water hose for the 1HDT. There will be 1HZ, 1PZ specific kits released soon.

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This engine'sinjection order is 1 - 4 - 2 - 6 - 3 - 5 . The crankshaft ... El motor 1HZ tiene un bloque de cilindros de hierro fundido con orificios de cilindro de 94,0 mm (3,7 in) y una carrera de pistón de 100,0 mm (3,94 in).WebCylinder head torque specs 1hd-t_1pz_1hz1st 700 (51,68)2nd turn 90 '3nd turn 90'Semoga bermanfaat kepada semua orang#cylinder_head_torque_specs#1hd-t_1pz_1hz... Toyota's 1HZ was a 4. Engine ...

Toyota HZ engine - Wikipedia A popular engine in the 80 series Land Cruiser, it replaced the 2H engine in the 80/85 series by 1990. The 1HZ Toyota Landcruiser 4.2 litre (4164 cc) diesel inline 6-cylinder 12-valve SOHC (overhead camshaft) is of the IDI or indirect injection design, and delivers maximum power of 96 kW (129 hp) at 3800 rpm and maximum torque of 285 N⋅m (210 lbf⋅ft) at 2200 rpm.