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Toyota 2F engine digital factory workshop and repair manual download

Goal summary (in one line)
- Adjust the final-drive ring-and-pinion in a Toyota with the 2F drivetrain so the pinion depth, pinion preload, and ring gear backlash produce a centered gear-tooth contact pattern and quiet, long-lasting bearings/gears.

Why this is done (theory, simple)
- The ring gear (big gear) and pinion (small gear) transfer engine torque to the axles. They must mesh with the right spacing and preload:
- Backlash: the small clearance between mating teeth prevents binding as they heat and expand; too much makes clatter and accelerated tooth wear, too little causes binding and immediate failure.
- Pinion depth: how far the pinion sits into the ring gear face — it determines whether contact is toward the toe/heel or face/back of the teeth.
- Preload (pinion bearing and carrier bearing preload): removes looseness in bearings. Too tight kills bearings; too loose lets parts move under load and changes tooth contact.
- Analogy: think of two combs meshing. If they’re too far apart (too much backlash) they slap and wear; too close and they don’t turn freely. Pinion depth is whether the small comb sits more over the inner or outer part of the big comb’s teeth; the sweet spot shares load across the tooth.

Major components and what each does
- Pinion gear (small gear on driveshaft): drives the ring gear; its axial and radial position determines contact pattern.
- Ring gear (large gear attached to carrier): transmits torque to the differential and axles.
- Differential carrier/case: holds the ring gear and differential gears/axles; carrier rotates with the ring gear.
- Carrier bearings (left & right): support the carrier in the housing. Shims behind these are used to move the carrier laterally for backlash adjustment.
- Carrier bearing caps: clamp the carrier bearings into the housing; must be reinstalled in original orientation and torqued to spec.
- Pinion bearings (tapered or roller) and races: support the pinion; these set the pinion height when installed.
- Pinion crush sleeve or pinion shims: set pinion preload and sometimes depth (design dependent). A crush sleeve compresses to preload; shims adjust axial location.
- Pinion nut (or yoke nut): secures pinion; used to set preload.
- Side (axle) gears and spider gears inside carrier: part of the differential; not directly adjusted here but must be inspected.
- Pinion seal and yoke: seal the driveshaft connection; replaced during disassembly.
- Differential cover & gasket: seal the housing; removal gives access.
- Gear marking compound / Prussian blue: used to examine the tooth contact patch.
- Dial indicator, depth micrometer, torque wrench, bearing puller/press, press-fit tools: measurement and installation tools.

When this repair is needed (symptoms)
- Howling/whining noise at certain road speeds (often indicative of pinion depth/backlash wrong).
- Clunking when accelerating or decelerating (excessive backlash or worn teeth).
- Gear tooth pitting, uneven wear, quick bearing failure.
- After replacing bearings, ring gear, or pinion, or after rebuilding differential or swapping housings — you must set mesh correctly.

Tools and parts you’ll need
- Basic shop tools (socket set, breaker bar, pry bars, hammer)
- Torque wrench (good quality)
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (backlash measurement)
- Depth micrometer or dial caliper and reference fixture for pinion depth
- Bearing puller and press (or suitable hydraulic press)
- Pinion bearing installer and driver set
- Gear marking compound
- Carrier shims and pinion shims / crush sleeve (as applicable)
- New bearings and races (recommended to replace)
- New seals, crush sleeve (if used), pinion nut
- Gasket or RTV for cover
- Clean rags, solvent, gear oil
- Safety gear (gloves, eye protection), jack stands or lift

High-level procedure (step-by-step; read fully before starting)
Note: This is a general, detailed process. Exact specs (torques, backlash target, pinion preload, shim thickness changes) must come from the Toyota factory service manual for the 2F vehicle. Follow the spec numbers from the manual.

1) Preparation and measurement
- Park safely, lift vehicle, remove wheels and brake backing plates or remove axles/shafts as required to access differential, drain gear oil, remove differential cover.
- Rotate ring and observe teeth; record any obvious damage.
- With the carrier in place, measure existing backlash with a dial indicator at the ring gear teeth: indicator tip on a tooth, hold pinion still, rock the ring back and forth and record movement. Note the original value and which side (left/right) shims are used. Mark bearing caps and carrier orientation for reassembly (match-mark everything).
- Photograph/mark each shim’s location and record thicknesses. This gives you a baseline.

2) Remove carrier and pinion
- Remove carrier bearing caps (keep caps in order and orientation).
- Pull out the carrier assembly (you may need a mallet and pry carefully). Keep the shims behind each carrier bearing — note their thickness and orientation.
- Remove pinion nut and yoke; press out pinion and remove pinion bearings and races. If a crush sleeve is present, remove it (you’ll replace it).
- Clean the housing thoroughly.

3) Inspection and parts replacement
- Replace worn bearings and races. It’s best to install new bearings and races before final setup because old races will change dimensions.
- Inspect ring, pinion teeth and bearings for wear. If teeth are damaged, replace ring and pinion as a matched set. Never mix unmatched ring and pinion.

4) Set pinion depth
Why pinion depth matters:
- Moving the pinion closer to the ring face moves the contact toward the heel; moving away moves toward the toe. The correct depth yields a centered pattern across face-to-toe and toe-to-heel.

How to set it:
- There are two common methods: shim-type pinion (use shims to place pinion) or crush-sleeve style (preload by crushing sleeve). Either way, you must determine the depth that produces a proper contact pattern.
- Using shims: install pinion with a candidate shim thickness, bearings, races, and preload the bearing (torque to snug bearing preload but not final). Install ring gear on carrier (if removed) and install carrier with original carrier shims temporarily. Bolt carrier loosely so it’s held but can be removed for changes.
- Using crush sleeve: install new crush sleeve and bearings, torque pinion nut to a specified preload to seat the sleeve (this sets preload but not depth — depth is controlled by bearing/race choice or initial geometry).
- Verify pinion depth by measurement method (depth gauge or using a dial indicator and reference surface). Exact measurement method varies by factory procedure; the goal is to meet factory pinion depth spec.

5) Set backlash (carrier lateral position)
- With pinion and ring installed, use the dial indicator on a ring tooth and measure backlash. Backlash is adjusted by adding/removing shims behind carrier bearings:
- To decrease backlash (bring ring closer to pinion): move the carrier toward the pinion — remove shim from the side toward which you want the carrier to move, or add shim to the opposite side.
- To increase backlash: move the carrier away — add thickness behind the side you want to move away.
- Small changes: typical shim increments are 0.05 mm or 0.1 mm; each change has a predictable effect on backlash.
- Tighten carrier caps to spec with a torque wrench and re-measure backlash; repeat until within factory spec. Always torque caps in the specified sequence and to spec — improper torque changes bearing preloads.

6) Check and set pinion preload
- Pinion preload must be set after pinion bearings and nut are installed. For shim-type you set preload by tightening nut to specified torque while monitoring rotational torque; for crush-sleeve you torque the nut to compress sleeve to spec.
- Measure the rotational torque of the pinion (use an inch-lb torque wrench or a dial torque tool). Adjust until it matches factory pinion rotational torque spec (not the drive nut torque — rotational torque is how stiff it is to turn; it correlates to bearing preload).
- NOTE: Pinion preload and pinion depth interact; if you change depth, verify preload and backlash again.

7) Check gear tooth contact pattern and refine
- Apply gear marking compound to a few teeth of the ring gear (or smear on teeth). Rotate the ring multiple revolutions under light load (rotate driveshaft and hold pinion still to get a clear imprint).
- Inspect the contact patch on the tooth face. Interpretation:
- Pattern centered face-to-face and toe-to-heel: good.
- Pattern too close to toe (inner part of tooth towards center): pinion is too deep into ring (move pinion outward).
- Pattern too close to heel (outer edge): pinion too shallow (move pinion inward).
- Pattern toward face (top): move pinion deeper/shallower depending on direction — use factory diagrams to interpret.
- Make iterative adjustments: change pinion shims (or carrier shims) as required, re-torque components, re-check backlash, re-check preload, re-check pattern. Repeat until pattern is ideal.

8) Final assembly
- Once pattern, backlash, and preload are correct, set final torques on carrier caps and pinion nut to factory values. Install new pinion seal and yoke, fill differential with specified gear oil and viscosity.
- Reinstall axle shafts or wheels, test for leaks, and spin with brakes removed to verify quiet rotation.
- Break-in and test drive: run vehicle, listen for howling; if still noisy or clunking, re-inspect.

Common things that go wrong and how to avoid them
- Using old races/bearings for setup: they change dimensions. Always use new races/bearings for final assembly.
- Not matching ring & pinion sets: they’re matched at the factory; mixing causes improper tooth geometry and failure.
- Over-torquing pinion nut (destroying bearings) or under-torquing (loose pinion): set rotational preload properly.
- Incorrect carrier cap torque or swapped caps: caps are machined together; swapping or incorrect torque changes bearing preload and alignment.
- Misreading contact pattern: patterns tell you whether to move pinion in or out or move the carrier; read factory diagrams carefully.
- Using the wrong shim increments: small changes matter — move one shim at a time and re-check.
- Not replacing pinion seal: leads to oil leaks and contamination.
- Performing one adjustment without checking the others: backlash, pinion depth, and preload are interdependent — adjust iteratively.

Safety and quality tips
- Work on a clean bench. Dirt contaminates bearings and gears.
- Always use factory specs for backlash, preload torque/rotational torque, and shim thickness effects.
- If you don’t have a press or proper tools, pay a shop for the bearing/race installs and final press fits — you can still do measurement and adjustment with guidance, but presses and correct drivers are important.
- Keep everything lubricated with clean gear oil during test runs.

Wrap-up (practical expectations)
- This job is medium-difficulty: requires measurement tools, a press or bearing tools, and patience. Expect iterative work — getting the pattern right often takes several careful tweaks.
- If you follow the pattern method and factory numbers and replace bearings/races and seals, the differential will be quiet and long-lasting. Incorrect adjustments commonly show up quickly as howling or quick bearing failure.

No Yapping — that’s the complete process and component-level description. Follow the 2F factory manual for the exact specs (backlash, pinion rotational torque, torques, and shim thickness table) during every torque and measurement step.
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