What it is (brief): the harmonic balancer (crankshaft damper/pulley) is a mass‑spring‑damper assembly bolted to the crank snout. On Toyota 2L/3L/5L diesel engines it’s typically an outer steel pulley bonded to an inner hub with an elastomer. Its job is to absorb torsional vibrations from the crankshaft so belts stay aligned, the front oil seal isn’t destroyed, and the crank and timing components don’t see resonance‑level loads.

Ordered procedure (in‑order, with the key theory points at each step):

1) Preparation and safety
- Park on level, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Gather tools: correct crank pulley socket, harmonic puller and installer or press, breaker bar/impact, dial indicator (optional), new balancer (and new crank bolt if recommended), threadlocker, basic hand tools.
- Theory note: you need to prevent the engine from turning and avoid hammering the crank/shaft seal — those actions cause damage or inaccurate seating.

2) Access and remove obstructions
- Remove accessory belts, fan shroud or fan assembly if it interferes, and any pulley covers. Mark belt positions if you want reference.
- Theory: removing belts releases torsional load and lets you inspect pulley alignment and rubber condition.

3) Lock the crank / tackle the crank bolt
- Use an appropriate method to hold the crank steady: preferred is a crank-holding tool engaging flywheel teeth or use an impact wrench (safer if you have a quality air/electric impact). If using a breaker bar, use the factory method to immobilize the crank (flywheel hold or transmission in gear with parking brake and brakes applied).
- Break the crank bolt loose and remove it. Replace with a new bolt unless manual says otherwise.
- Theory: the crank bolt is torqued very high to seat the balancer; loosening requires a stable counter‑hold. Don’t apply impulse to internal components.

4) Remove the old balancer
- Use a proper 2– or 3‑arm harmonic puller or a hydraulic press. Pull straight off the crank snout. Don’t pry on the outer face or hammer on the snout.
- Inspect the balancer for cracked/bulged rubber, oil saturation, and runout. Inspect the crank snout, key/keyway and front seal for damage or oil.
- Theory: the balancer is interference/pressed on; pulling preserves the snout and seal. Rubber failures commonly let the outer mass move relative to the hub and allow wobble.

5) Inspect and correct front‑end components
- Replace the woodruff key if worn or damaged. Replace the front crank seal if it’s leaking or shows grooves. Clean mating surfaces.
- Measure the balancer’s radial runout on the new part (or on the crank once installed) with a dial indicator; factory allowable is small — consult the manual.
- Theory: a damaged key or seal or a warped balancer will reintroduce misalignment or leaks even after fitting.

6) Install the new balancer
- Slide the new damper onto the crank using a press or a proper installer bolt/adapter that draws the hub onto the crank evenly. Do not hammer. Make sure the keyway is aligned and the hub fully seats against the crank shoulder.
- If the OEM uses a spacer or washer orientation, follow it exactly. Use any specified assembly lube if required.
- Theory: even, axial seating ensures correct preload and concentricity; hammering or crooked seating causes runout and premature failure.

7) Torque and secure the crank bolt
- Fit the new crank bolt (recommended) and tighten in steps to factory torque (final torque per Toyota spec). Use threadlocker if specified. Some engines require an angle‑tighten sequence — follow the manual.
- Reinstall any bolt covers/guards.
- Theory: correct torque preloads the hub on the crank properly so the press fit and friction keep the damper from slipping; under/over torquing changes seating and can damage the rubber bond.

8) Reassemble belts and accessories; check alignment
- Refit belts and set correct tension and alignment. Start the engine and check for noises, vibration, belt tracking/oscillation, and oil leaks at the front seal.
- Optional: measure runout and torsional vibration under run conditions if you have the gear.
- Theory: belts track true only if the pulley runs true and concentric; correct tension prevents belt flutter and accessory wear.

How the repair fixes the fault (theory, concise)
- Function: the damper’s elastomer absorbs and dissipates torsional energy by letting the outer mass move slightly relative to the hub, converting vibration into heat. It’s a tuned mass‑spring‑damper for the crank’s torsional modes.
- Failure mode: the rubber ages, cracks, or delaminates; the bond fails or the hub/pulley becomes corroded or warped. When that happens damping drops and the outer mass can move freely: you get eccentric pulley runout, increased vibration amplitudes at harmonic frequencies, belt misalignment, front seal wear/leaks, and higher cyclic stress on the crank and timing gears.
- Repair effect: replacing the balancer restores the designed mass, stiffness and damping, bringing torsional amplitudes down to safe levels, re‑centering the pulley so belts run true, and preventing seal and crank/timing component overload. Replacing damaged keys/seals and correct seating ensures the damper actually follows the crank without slip or wobble.

Concise symptom checklist (why you do it)
- Visible rubber separation or oil in the damper, wobble at idle, accessory belt oscillation/noise, front crank seal leak, unusual vibration at particular rev ranges, or measured excessive runout.

Final practical cautions (short)
- Use a puller/press and proper crank‑holding method. Don’t hammer or reuse a cracked bolt. Torque to factory spec. Replace the key and seal if in doubt.

That’s the ordered how‑to with the underlying reasons for each action and how the repair cures the problem.
rteeqp73

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