- Safety first (read before starting)
- Wear safety glasses, heavy gloves, and steel-toe boots; working on transmissions and bearings can send metal shards and heavy parts flying.
- Use jack stands and a transmission jack; never rely solely on a hydraulic floor jack.
- Work on a flat, level surface with adequate lighting and ventilation.
- Have a fire extinguisher and first-aid kit nearby.
- Obtain the Toyota 2H / 12H-T transmission or vehicle service manual (exploded views, bolt sequences, torque specs). Follow the manual for bolt torques and clearances.

- What this job covers (scope)
- Removing the transmission/transaxle or gearbox, extracting the input shaft, removing the input-shaft bearing, replacing the bearing and associated seals/snap rings/gaskets, reassembling and reinstalling the transmission.
- If you are a complete beginner and you do not have a press or experience, consider sending the gearbox to a transmission shop or buying a rebuilt unit.

- Parts you will very likely need and why
- Input shaft bearing (replacement is required if noisy, worn, scored, has play or roughness). Use OEM or high-quality NSK/Timken equivalent.
- Input shaft oil/seal(s) (front input seal and any output seals disturbed). Seals should always be replaced when the housing is opened.
- Gaskets and O-rings for transmission covers and drain/fill plugs. Old gaskets often deform and leak.
- Snap rings/circlips (if the old ones are stretched or damaged). They secure bearings; replace if any wear.
- Transmission fluid (correct grade and quantity) because you will drain the gearbox.
- Optional: new input shaft if bearings have scored the shaft or if there is excessive wear; measure shaft journal runout and diameter before deciding.
- Optional: bearing shim(s) or thrust washers if the manual specifies them for preload/endplay adjustment.

- Basic tools (description and how to use each)
- Socket set (metric) and ratchet: used to remove bolts and nuts. Use correct-size sockets to avoid rounding heads. Use extensions and universal joints to reach tight spots.
- Combination wrenches (metric): for bolts where a socket won’t fit. Use the correct size and pull toward the wrench’s body for safer leverage.
- Breaker bar: long-handled bar for initial loosening of tight fasteners; apply steady force, avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench (click-type or digital): used to tighten bolts to specified torque. Set the specified torque and tighten smoothly until the wrench clicks (or reads the torque).
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips): for prying small clips and removing covers. Use a pry carefully to avoid damage.
- Pliers (needle-nose, slip-joint) and snap-ring pliers (internal/external): grip and remove clips and snap rings. For snap rings, use the correct pliers and keep fingers away from potential recoil.
- Rubber mallet: gentle persuasion of parts without damaging surfaces.
- Pry bar: to separate housings; use carefully to avoid gouging mating surfaces.
- Drain pan and fluid pump: catch old fluid and refill new fluid without spills.
- Cleaning brushes and solvent/degreaser: clean mating surfaces and bearings area.
- Torque extension/impact sockets (if using impact gun): for fast removal, but final torque must be with a torque wrench.
- Feeler gauges or dial indicator (basic) and straightedge: to check endplay/runout if required by manual.
- Magnetic pickup tool and telescoping mirrors: retrieve dropped fasteners and inspect hidden areas.

- Specialized tools (detailed descriptions, how to use, and why required)
- Bearing puller / gear puller
- Description: jaws or a center-pull extractor that grips the bearing inner or outer race and pulls it off the shaft.
- How to use: position jaws on the bearing race, center the forcing screw on the shaft end, turn the forcing screw evenly to extract the bearing. Use gradually, keep the puller aligned, and support the shaft to avoid bending.
- Why required: bearings are pressed on tightly; a puller removes them without destroying the shaft or housing.
- Hydraulic or arbor press (bench or shop press)
- Description: a frame with a hydraulic ram used to press bearings on/off shafts with controlled force.
- How to use: support the shaft and press evenly on the bearing race (apply force only to the race being pressed to avoid bearing damage). Use appropriate adapters or sleeves to press on/off the correct race.
- Why required: pressing on/off bearings without damaging raceways and ensuring proper seating and alignment. Strongly recommended for installation.
- Bearing driver set / seal driver / hub driver
- Description: a set of discs/sleeves that let you strike a bearing evenly onto the shaft.
- How to use: choose the driver that contacts the outer or inner race as required, align squarely, and tap with a hammer or mallet evenly until seated.
- Why required: prevents driving on wrong race and avoids bearing damage.
- Heat source (propane torch or oven) and bearing freezer (or ice)
- Description: heating the housing or freezing the bearing to ease installation/removal.
- How to use: carefully heat the housing uniformly to expand before installing a tight bearing; alternatively, cool the new bearing to shrink it slightly. Do not overheat; follow safe heating practices.
- Why required: an alternative to a press when small interference fits are involved. Use only if you understand thermal expansion and limits.
- Snap-ring pliers (internal/external)
- Description: pliers designed to compress or expand snap rings to remove/install without distortion.
- How to use: pick the correct orientation (internal/external), seat tips into ring holes, compress or expand smoothly and remove or install.
- Why required: snap rings hold bearings and must be removed/reinstalled correctly.
- Transmission jack or engine hoist adapter
- Description: a jack with a wide saddle and straps to support transmission weight.
- How to use: support and lower the gearbox safely, balance it, and lock it while removing fasteners.
- Why required: transmissions are heavy and awkward; a regular floor jack may be unsafe.
- Impact wrench (optional)
- Description: pneumatic or electric tool for fast removal of stubborn bolts.
- How to use: use appropriate sockets and torque back down with a torque wrench for final tightening.
- Why required: speeds removal but not mandatory; solid breaker bar and penetrating oil can substitute.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for runout/endplay)
- Description: measures shaft runout and axial play precisely.
- How to use: mount magnetic base on housing, probe against shaft or bearing and rotate or move to read runout/endplay.
- Why required: to check bearing endplay or shaft runout to ensure correct assembly and avoid premature failure.

- If you do not have specialized tools (bearing puller, press, snap-ring pliers)
- Why you might still need them: trying to improvise can damage bearing raceways, shafts, or housings and create more costly repairs.
- Alternatives: have the gearbox opened and bearings pressed at a local machine shop, or buy a rebuilt gearbox. This is often cheaper and safer for beginners.

- Preparatory steps (before removing transmission)
- Disconnect battery negative terminal.
- Drain transmission fluid into a drain pan and keep it labeled.
- Remove driveshaft(s), clutch/torque converter (manual vs automatic), shift linkage, speedometer cable/electric, starter, and any wiring harness or brackets attached to the transmission.
- Support engine/transmission with jack/engine support and use transmission jack to support the gearbox weight.
- Remove gearbox-to-engine bolts evenly, lower gearbox slowly and safely.

- Removal of input shaft from gearbox (general procedure)
- Remove the gearbox end cover / tail housing to access internal gears per the manual.
- Note position of all gears, forks, shims, and layshaft components; take photos or mark positions for reassembly.
- Remove snap rings, circlips, shafts, and selectors needed to free the input shaft. Keep parts in order, on a clean workbench.
- Slide the input shaft out of the main housing; if the bearing prevents removal, use the bearing puller on the housing side or remove the bearing-retaining snap ring first.
- Inspect the input shaft journal, splines, and mating surfaces for wear, scoring, or pitting. Measure journal diameter and runout if possible.

- Removing the bearing from the input shaft or housing
- Identify whether the bearing is pressed onto the shaft (inner race) or pressed into the housing (outer race).
- For bearings pressed on the shaft:
- Use a press with appropriate adapters to press the bearing off the shaft by pushing on the inner race (preferably) or use a bearing puller that grips the inner race.
- If no press, heat the housing slightly and use a puller on the bearing outer race; do not strike the bearing race directly with a hammer.
- For bearings pressed into the housing:
- Use an internal snap-ring plier to remove any retaining rings.
- Use a bearing puller that pulls from the inner race or a hydraulic press from the housing side, supporting the housing to avoid distortion.
- Do not hammer directly on the bearing race unless using a proper bearing driver to the correct race only.
- Clean debris away as you work to prevent contamination.

- Installing the new bearing (correctly)
- Clean the shaft and housing thoroughly; remove rust, burrs, and old grease.
- Verify the new bearing is the correct size/part number and oriented properly.
- Warm the housing slightly (or cool the bearing) if you must use thermal fit; keep temperatures safe and even. Do not exceed bearing manufacturer temperature limits (generally <120°C for many bearings).
- Using a press or bearing driver, press the bearing into place evenly by contacting only the race that you are pressing on:
- When pressing a bearing onto a shaft, press on the inner race only.
- When pressing a bearing into a housing, press on the outer race only.
- Install any snap rings, shims, or thrust washers in the proper order specified by the manual.
- Check input-shaft endplay with a dial indicator and adjust shims or preload as specified by the service manual.

- Reassembly and reinstallation
- Reassemble gearbox internals in reverse order, ensuring all shift forks, synchronizers and selectors align correctly.
- Replace all gaskets and seals when reassembling covers and mating surfaces.
- Torque all bolts to the Toyota-specified values in the sequence shown in the manual.
- Reinstall the gearbox to the engine, secure bolts, reconnect linkages, wiring, driveshafts and fill with correct grade fluid to the correct level.
- Run the engine and test for leaks and proper gear engagement before driving.

- Common signs that bearing replacement is required (so you don’t do this unnecessarily)
- Loud whining, rumbling, or growling from the transmission when the clutch is engaged or at particular speeds.
- Excessive axial play or free play in the input shaft.
- Metal debris or bearing particles in the drained fluid.
- Visible scoring or heat discoloration on shaft journals or bearing surfaces.

- Tips, pitfalls, and final warnings
- Always replace seals and gaskets whenever you open a unit; trying to reuse old seals often causes leaks.
- Never apply force to the wrong bearing race — that damages rollers and leads to early failure.
- Keep everything extremely clean; bearings are killed quickly by dirt or grit.
- If you are missing a press or confident press technique, take the unit to a machine shop — they will have presses, correct drivers, and measurement tools.
- Keep a parts diagram or take lots of photos to avoid assembly errors.
- If the input shaft journal is scored or undersized, replacing the shaft or using an oversize bearing may be necessary — consult a machinist or the parts manual.

- Recommended replacement part sourcing
- Use OEM Toyota part numbers if possible (get them from the Toyota service parts manual or dealer) or buy quality aftermarket bearings from NSK, SKF, Timken, or equivalent.
- Buy all related seals, gaskets, and snap rings in the same kit if available.
- Keep receipts and verify cross-reference numbers before purchase.

- Final suggestion (no extra questions)
- If you don’t have a press, bearing puller experience, or access to the service manual, either have the transmission inspected and the bearing pressed at a reputable transmission shop or buy a rebuilt gearbox to avoid damaging parts.


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