1) Safety & preparation
- Step: Park on level ground, set parking brake, disconnect negative battery terminal, let engine cool, raise vehicle and support with stands if needed.
- Theory: Prevents burns, electrical shorts and vehicle movement. Disconnecting battery avoids accidental cranking while working near the timing area.

2) Drain coolant
- Step: Open radiator drain and remove reservoir cap; collect coolant for disposal.
- Theory: Lowers coolant level so liquid won’t spill when you remove pump/covers. Emptying protects seals and gives a clean work area to inspect leak sources.

3) Remove accessories that block access
- Step: Remove fan, fan shroud (if fitted), serpentine/aux belts, alternator/AC brackets as required to access timing cover and crank pulley.
- Theory: The water pump on the 5L‑E is accessed behind accessory items; removing them exposes the timing/drive area and prevents damage to components during pump removal.

4) Remove crank pulley and timing covers
- Step: Loosen and remove crank pulley/harmonic balancer and the timing belt covers to expose the timing belt and pump.
- Theory: On the 5L‑E the water pump is driven by the timing belt and mounted under the timing cover. Exposing the timing belt allows safe removal of the belt and access to the pump housing and mounting bolts.

5) Mark timing belt and check timing alignment
- Step: With engine at TDC reference, mark belt-tooth positions and cam/crank timing marks, or verify factory marks before removing the belt.
- Theory: Preserves timing alignment. If marks aren’t noted, reinstalling a belt out of phase will change valve timing and can cause poor running or internal interference.

6) Remove the timing belt
- Step: Relieve tension (loosen tensioner), slide the belt off the pulleys, and set belt aside if reusing only if in good condition; otherwise replace.
- Theory: The pump sits behind or adjacent to the belt; removing the belt allows access to pump bolts. Also removes load from pump shaft so it can be turned/removed.

7) Remove water pump
- Step: Remove pump mounting bolts, detach pump from block, remove gasket/seal remnants, and inspect bolt holes and mating surfaces.
- Theory: Taking out the pump allows replacement of failed bearings, seals or corroded impeller. Cleaning mating surfaces ensures proper sealing of new pump to prevent leaks.

8) Inspect and diagnose before installing new pump
- Step: Check pump shaft for play, impeller for corrosion/damage, coolant passages for blockage, timing belt condition, and tensioner/idler bearings.
- Theory: Confirms root cause (bearing wear, seal failure, corrosion). If bearings or belt components are worn, a new pump alone will fail sooner. Addressing all failure modes prevents recurrence.

9) Prepare new pump and mating surfaces
- Step: Clean block face, apply correct gasket or O‑ring, fit any alignment dowels, and apply proper sealant only where specified.
- Theory: Ensures a flat, leak‑free joint. Correct gasket/sealant prevents coolant leaks; dowels align pump and prevent gasket shear.

10) Install new pump
- Step: Position pump, torque bolts to factory spec in recommended sequence, spin pump shaft by hand to confirm free rotation.
- Theory: Correct torque and sequence prevent distortion of pump housing/gasket and ensure even sealing. Free rotation confirms bearings were installed correctly and no interference exists.

11) Reinstall timing belt and set tension
- Step: Refit belt with marks aligned, set tension per procedure (use tensioner, check deflection or indicator), rotate engine two full revolutions and recheck marks and tension.
- Theory: Proper timing and tension ensure cam/crank synchronization and prevent belt slip or premature wear. Rotating the engine confirms there is no interference and that installation is correct.

12) Reassemble covers, pulleys and accessories
- Step: Replace timing covers, crank pulley, belts, fan, and any brackets removed; reconnect battery terminal.
- Theory: Restores accessory drive and protects timing components. Correct reassembly restores engine operation and cooling drive.

13) Refill coolant and bleed air
- Step: Refill cooling system with specified coolant mixture, run engine to operating temp with heater on, top up and use bleeding procedure (bleed valves or lift front to remove trapped air).
- Theory: Air pockets reduce coolant flow and cause local overheating. Bleeding ensures continuous coolant circulation and accurate temperature readings.

14) Test and verify repair
- Step: With engine at operating temperature, inspect for leaks around pump, check temperature stability, listen for bearing noise, and confirm belt tension after a short run.
- Theory: Confirms the replaced pump solved the fault — no leaks (fixes seal failure), quiet operation (fixes bearing failure), and stable temp (fixes low flow/impeller damage). Verifies no secondary problems introduced.

15) Final notes and preventive measures
- Step: Replace timing belt/tensioner if age/mileage suggests it (do them together), use correct coolant type, and retorque/check after 100–500 km.
- Theory: Water pump failure commonly accompanies aged belts/tensioners; replacing them together reduces future labor and risk. Correct coolant chemistry prevents corrosion and prolongs pump life.

How the repair fixes common faults
- Leaking seal/gasket: Replacing pump and gasket restores the sealed joint, stopping coolant loss.
- Worn bearing: A new pump has fresh bearings; this removes shaft play and bearing noise and prevents pump seizure (which can strip belts or overheat).
- Damaged impeller/corrosion: New impeller restores proper coolant flow rate and directed flow, correcting overheating or poor cabin heater performance.
- Contamination/blockage: Replacing pump and flushing system removes debris that can block passages and damage components.

Torque specs, belt tension method, bleed procedure and any special tools are model‑specific — follow the Toyota 5L‑E factory manual for exact values and sequences.
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