Tools & parts
- Tools: floor jack, jack stands (rated), wheel chocks, 1/2" breaker bar, set of sockets and wrenches (common metric: 10–24 mm), torque wrench (capable to ~200 ft‑lb), ratchet, extensions, universal joints, impact wrench (optional), ball‑joint separator (pickle fork) or a two‑jaw ball‑joint puller, tie‑rod separator (optional), large pry bar, hammer, punch, penetrating oil (PB Blaster), wire brush, shop rags, rubber mallet, grease and rags, anti‑seize, thread locker (per factory), replacement cotter pins, wire cutters.
- Optional: 3‑jaw puller, hydraulic or threaded ball joint press (if pressing out bushings), heat gun/propane torch (careful).
- Parts: new control arm assembly (recommended) or new control arm bushings and ball joint if rebuilding; new mounting bolts/nuts if torque‑to‑yield or corroded; new cotter pin(s); new sway bar link hardware if needed. Always have the Toyota factory service manual or OEM torque specs.

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface, set parking brake, chock opposite wheels.
- Use a floor jack only to lift; always support with jack stands under the frame/subframe points. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- If heating bolts, keep flammables away.
- Keep hands clear when separating press‑fit ball joints—components can release suddenly.
- After reassembly, get a professional wheel alignment before driving more than a few miles.

Step‑by‑step: front lower control arm replacement (typical Toyota bB / similar Toyota compact)
1. Preparation
- Park on flat surface, chock rear wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while car on ground.
- Spray penetrating oil on control arm mounting bolts, ball joint nut, sway bar link fasteners and axle nut if needed. Let soak.

2. Lift and remove wheel
- Lift front of car with floor jack at designated lift point; place on jack stands under subframe or pinch welds. Lower onto stands.
- Remove front wheel.

3. Disconnect ancillary components
- Remove sway bar end link from control arm if attached (remove nut and separate link). Use two wrenches to hold stud while removing nut.
- Remove brake caliper and hang it (do NOT let hang by brake hose) or secure it with a hanger. Remove brake rotor if it blocks access.
- If necessary, remove ABS sensor or bracket from knuckle and secure wiring out of the way.
- If the CV axle is inboard and hub nut blocks access, remove axle nut (use breaker bar or impact). Support the hub/knuckle if needed.

4. Separate ball joint from steering knuckle
- Remove the castle/hex nut from the lower control arm ball joint stud. If cotter pin present, remove it first.
- Use a ball‑joint separator (pickle fork) or two‑jaw puller between ball joint and knuckle. Alternatively, hit the knuckle sharply with a hammer on the side near the ball joint stud to break tapered fit (support hub to avoid stressing the CV).
- Once separated, push knuckle away and be careful not to over‑extend CV axle.

5. Unbolt control arm from subframe/frame
- Locate and remove the bolts that attach the control arm to the subframe or body (usually 2–3 bolts through bushings). Support the control arm with a jack or pry bar so it does not drop suddenly.
- If bolts are seized, use penetrating oil, heat, and an impact wrench. Take care not to bend or damage mounting points.

6. Remove old control arm
- Lower control arm and remove it from vehicle. Inspect ball joint, bushings, and mounting points to confirm replacement reasons.

7. Prepare replacement
- If installing a new complete control arm assembly, compare to old part—confirm orientation and that ball joint and bushing preloads are correct.
- Clean mounting surfaces and wire‑brush bolts. Apply anti‑seize on bolt threads if recommended. Replace bolts/nuts if corroded or if factory calls for new ones.

8. Install new control arm
- Position new control arm and insert mounting bolts finger‑tight. Do not fully torque bush mounting bolts until vehicle is at normal ride height unless factory instructs otherwise—some bushings require pre‑load or torque with suspension compressed. Check service manual for bushing preload procedure.
- Reconnect ball joint into knuckle; tighten ball joint nut to factory torque. If a cotter pin is required, install new cotter pin and bend properly.
- Reinstall sway bar link and other brackets; torque all fasteners to spec.

9. Reassemble brakes/wheel
- Reinstall rotor and caliper, torque caliper bolts.
- Reinstall wheel, hand‑tighten lug nuts.

10. Lower and torque
- Lower vehicle onto ground with normal weight on suspension. With car on ground, torque control arm mounting bolts to factory specs (if manual calls for torque at ride height). Torque wheels to spec in a star pattern.
- If axle nut was removed, torque to spec and install new cotter pin if needed.

11. Final checks and alignment
- Double‑check all fasteners, ensure no cracked boots on ball joints, no brake line pinches.
- Start the car and slowly roll forward/backward to let suspension settle, then re‑torque bolts if required.
- ALWAYS get a professional 4‑wheel alignment after replacing control arm(s).

How each major tool is used (brief)
- Floor jack & jack stands: lift and safely support vehicle. Use stands under manufacturer‑approved points.
- Breaker bar/impact: to break loose tight nuts (ball joint nut, axle nut, mounting bolts). Use impact for stubborn corroded fasteners.
- Ball‑joint separator/pickle fork or puller: inserted between ball joint stud and knuckle; applying leverage or threaded action pushes the tapered stud out of the knuckle without damaging threads. Use puller if you want cleaner separation.
- Pry bar: used to position control arm for bolt insertion or to relieve tension on ball joint to remove stud.
- Torque wrench: used to tighten bolts to factory torque values—critical for safety and proper bushing preload.
- Press or ball joint tool: if replacing bushings or pressing ball joint, press tool is used to press bushings/ball joint in/out; requires supporting arm and careful alignment.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Reusing damaged or torque‑to‑yield bolts: replace if corroded or specified single‑use.
- Forgetting to torque control arm bushings at ride height: follow factory procedure or you’ll get premature bushing wear or alignment pull.
- Damaging CV axle boots by letting hub hang unsupported: always support hub/knuckle.
- Not replacing cotter pins or using improper fasteners: use new cotter pins and correct OEM nuts.
- Using excessive force on ball joints: use proper separator/puller to avoid tearing boot or damaging joint.
- Not getting an alignment after replacement: results in poor handling and rapid tire wear.
- Overheating nearby components with torch: use heat sparingly and protect rubber/plastic lines.
- Forgetting to check ABS sensor wire routing: don’t pinch or trap wiring when reinstalling.

Final notes
- If you’re unsure about any torque value or bushing preload procedure, consult the Toyota bB factory repair manual for model year‑specific instructions and torque specs.
- When in doubt replace the entire control arm assembly (with preinstalled ball joint and bushings) — faster and more reliable than rebuilding.
- After road test, re‑inspect fasteners and cotter pins.

Done.
rteeqp73

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- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile or mechanic gloves, and steel-toe shoes if available.
- Work on a flat, level surface; set the parking brake and chock rear wheels.
- Do not crawl under a car supported only by a jack — always use properly rated jack stands.

- Tools (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Floor jack
- Description: Hydraulic jack used to lift the vehicle. Choose one with capacity >1 ton.
- How to use: Place under recommended lift point, pump handle to raise slowly. Only lift high enough to place jack stands.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Description: Adjustable metal stands that securely support the vehicle.
- How to use: After lifting with the floor jack, set jack stands under manufacturer-recommended support points and lower the car onto them. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: Rubber or wooden blocks to prevent rolling.
- How to use: Place behind wheels opposite the end you're lifting.
- Drain pan (large, low)
- Description: Wide, shallow container that catches transmission fluid.
- How to use: Slide under pan; position to catch fluid when pan loosened.
- Socket set with ratchet (metric and SAE)
- Description: Ratchet handle with sockets (common sizes 8mm–14mm and 5/16"–9/16").
- How to use: Match socket to bolt head, attach to ratchet, turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.
- Torque wrench (click-type)
- Description: Wrench that sets a specific torque so fasteners are tightened correctly.
- How to use: Set required torque (see service manual or guideline below), turn handle until it clicks to indicate proper torque.
- Extension bars and swivel/pivot adapter
- Description: Help reach bolts in tight locations.
- How to use: Add to ratchet/socket to reach recessed bolts and maintain correct angle.
- Combination wrench set
- Description: Open-end and box-end wrenches for spaces where a ratchet won't fit.
- How to use: Use appropriate-sized wrench to hold or turn fastener.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: For prying or removing clips.
- How to use: Use flat screwdriver to gently pry filter clip or pan gasket; use Phillips to remove small screws if present.
- Gasket scraper or razor blade (plastic scraper recommended first)
- Description: Tool to remove old gasket material from mating surfaces.
- How to use: Carefully scrape at a shallow angle to avoid gouging metal; use plastic scraper first to reduce damage.
- Clean shop rags or lint-free towels
- Description: For wiping fluid and cleaning surfaces.
- How to use: Wipe mating surfaces and magnet in pan clean of debris and old fluid.
- Brake cleaner or parts cleaner spray
- Description: Degreasing spray to clean metal surfaces.
- How to use: Spray and wipe clean; let evaporate fully before assembly.
- Rubber mallet
- Description: Soft-faced hammer for persuading stuck pans loose without denting.
- How to use: Light taps around edge to break seal after bolts loosened.
- Funnel and/or fluid pump
- Description: For refilling transmission fluid into dipstick tube or fill hole.
- How to use: Use a funnel with a long neck or a hand pump to add fluid without spills.
- Transmission fluid catch container and disposal bags
- Description: For transporting used fluid to recycling center.
- How to use: Pour used fluid into sealed container for disposal/recycling.
- Transmission fluid (correct type and enough quantity)
- Description: Manufacturer-specified ATF (e.g., Toyota Type T-IV for many older Toyotas or Toyota WS for newer models).
- How to use: Only use the correct type; typical pan gasket job uses 3–6 quarts depending on vehicle—check capacity.
- New transmission pan gasket (or RTV sealant if recommended by OEM)
- Description: Paper/rubber gasket shaped to pan; some pans use a formed rubber gasket or RTV silicone.
- How to use: Replace old gasket with new one; if OEM calls for RTV, apply bead as directed.
- New transmission filter (recommended)
- Description: Internal filter that collects debris and restricts flow when clogged.
- How to use: Remove old filter and install new one per orientation; bolts or clips secure it.
- New pan bolts or crush washers (if specified) / thread locker (if specified)
- Description: Some bolts and drain plugs are single-use or have crush washers.
- How to use: Replace bolts/washers as needed; tighten to spec.
- Magnetic pickup tool (optional)
- Description: Magnetic wand to remove metal shavings from pan or magnet.
- How to use: Run over pan and filter area to pick up metallic debris.
- Service manual or access to torque/spec chart (highly recommended)
- Description: Exact bolt torque, fluid type, capacities, and procedures for your vehicle.
- How to use: Use to verify torque specs and final fluid level method.

- Why extra tools may be required (and when)
- Jack stands and floor jack required because you must access the underside safely; a garage lift eliminates these but is not common for beginners.
- Torque wrench required to avoid over-tightening pan bolts (can warp pan or strip threads) or under-tightening (leaks).
- Filter and gasket replacement recommended because filter is usually inside and often changed when pan dropped; not replacing leaves old debris/pollution.
- Transmission fluid pump or long funnel may be required because filling through the dipstick tube can be awkward and cause spills.
- Gasket scraper and brake cleaner required to ensure clean mating surfaces for a reliable seal.

- Parts to replace and why
- Transmission pan gasket
- Why: Old gaskets become brittle or compressed and leak. Replacing ensures a proper seal.
- What to get: OEM specific pan gasket or equivalent aftermarket gasket sized for your transmission pan.
- Transmission filter
- Why: Removes metal particles and debris; replacing improves fluid flow and longevity.
- What to get: OEM filter or quality aftermarket filter specified for your transmission.
- Transmission fluid (ATF)
- Why: Fluid lost during pan removal must be replaced; new fluid also helps cooling and shifting.
- What to get: The exact ATF grade specified in the owner’s manual (commonly Toyota Type T-IV on older Toyota automatics, Toyota WS on many newer models).
- Pan bolts / drain plug crush washer (if applicable)
- Why: Some bolts/washers are torque-to-yield or crush-type and must be replaced to avoid leaks.
- What to get: Match bolt size and washer/crush washer for the drain plug if present.
- Transmission pan (only if damaged or heavily corroded)
- Why: Dented pans can trap fluid, cause leaks, or prevent proper gasket seating.
- What to get: OEM or aftermarket pan designed for your transmission.

- Beginner-friendly procedure (safe, concise steps)
- Prepare the vehicle: park level, chock wheels, set parking brake, and put car in "Park."
- Lift and support: use floor jack to raise front (or side needed), place jack stands under manufacturer-approved points, lower car onto stands and verify stability.
- Locate the transmission pan: it’s a shallow metal pan under the transmission with multiple bolts around the perimeter and often a small drain plug.
- Position drain pan underneath and loosen bolts:
- Loosen perimeter bolts in a few locations (don’t remove them all immediately) to let fluid leak out slowly into the drain pan.
- If pan has a drain plug, remove it first to drain fluid more cleanly.
- Remove the pan:
- After most fluid drains, remove the remaining bolts and carefully lower the pan. Expect remaining fluid to spill—keep drain pan in position.
- If pan seems stuck, tap around the edges lightly with a rubber mallet to break the seal.
- Inspect and clean the pan:
- Empty fluid into disposal container. Remove magnet(s) in the pan and clean off metal particles; wipe pan clean and use brake cleaner to remove sludge.
- Inspect for excessive metal shavings or chunks (large metal pieces may indicate internal wear needing professional inspection).
- Remove and replace the filter:
- Unbolt or unclip the transmission filter (varies by model). Note orientation and how it seats.
- Install the new filter in the same orientation; replace any O-rings or seals if the filter kit includes them.
- Clean mating surfaces:
- Scrape off old gasket material from the pan flange and the transmission case mating surface carefully; avoid gouging.
- Wipe both surfaces with brake cleaner and a lint-free rag until dry.
- Install new gasket or apply RTV:
- Fit the new gasket to the pan. If OEM uses RTV, apply a continuous bead where specified by the manual (usually a thin bead around pan flange).
- Place the pan up to the transmission and hand-start bolts to hold it in place.
- Tighten bolts to specification:
- Tighten bolts finger tight in a crisscross pattern to seat the gasket evenly.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten to the manufacturer’s torque. Typical pan bolt torque for many transmissions is around 7–12 ft-lbs — check your service manual. Do not over-torque.
- Reinstall drain plug or new crush washer if removed:
- If drain plug has a crush washer, replace it and torque to specified value.
- Lower vehicle slightly if needed and refill fluid:
- Lower the car from jack stands or keep safely supported per convenience, then start refilling fluid using a funnel or pump into the transmission dipstick tube (or fill port if present).
- Add roughly the amount removed minus what remains in torque converter; most pan gasket jobs require 3–6 quarts. Check service manual for capacity and procedure.
- Check fluid level and running temperature:
- Start engine, allow it to reach operating temperature, cycle through gears (with brake on) to circulate fluid.
- With engine idling and vehicle on level ground (follow the procedure in the owner’s manual — some require checking hot with the engine running in Park or Neutral), check the transmission fluid level on the dipstick and add fluid slowly until level is in the proper range.
- Check for leaks:
- With vehicle running and at operating temp, inspect pan area for leaks around gasket and drain plug. Re-torque bolts lightly if a slow seep appears (do not overtighten).

- How to use the main tools while doing the job
- Ratchet and sockets: use correct socket size; turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Use extensions for recessed bolts.
- Torque wrench: set desired torque, snug bolts in cross pattern, then click to finalize torque. Store properly after use.
- Gasket scraper: scrape gently at low angle; stop if bare metal starts to show gouges.
- Funnel/pump: keep funnel steady and pour slowly; if using a hand pump, use consistent strokes to avoid air pockets.

- When a pan gasket replacement is NOT sufficient (signs you need extra work)
- Large metal chunks or heavy metal debris in pan or on magnet — transmission internal damage possible; consider professional diagnosis.
- Severe grinding, slipping, or failure to shift properly after fluid/filter change — may indicate internal problems beyond a gasket replacement.
- Warped or dented pan that prevents gasket sealing — replace the pan.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Collect used fluid in sealed containers and take to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used ATF.
- Clean tools and work area; wipe up spilled fluid to prevent slipping and environmental contamination.

- Quick parts checklist to buy before starting
- Correct transmission pan gasket for your vehicle
- Transmission filter (OEM or quality aftermarket)
- Correct ATF type and enough quantity
- New pan bolts/washers if specified or drain plug crush washer
- Optional: RTV sealant if OEM recommends

- Final reminders
- Follow torque specs and fluid type specified by Toyota for your exact model year and transmission to avoid damage.
- If you see unusual metal debris or shifting problems after replacement, stop driving and seek professional inspection.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

Quick summary (what this repair fixes)
- Problem: a failing clutch slave cylinder leaks or does not move the clutch-release mechanism, causing a soft/no clutch pedal, clutch dragging, slipping, or inability to shift. Replacing the slave cylinder restores reliable hydraulic actuation of the clutch.
- Big picture: clutch hydraulics = master cylinder (pedal) -> fluid -> slave cylinder (transmission) -> clutch fork/release bearing -> pressure plate. Think of the system like two syringes connected by a tube: when you push one syringe (pedal/master), the other syringe (slave) moves unless fluid leaks or air is present.

Components — what every part is and what it does
- Clutch pedal: lever you press with your foot. It pushes a pushrod into the master cylinder.
- Master cylinder: small hydraulic cylinder mounted near the firewall with a fluid reservoir on top. Inside are a piston and seals. When you press the pedal the piston pushes brake/clutch fluid into the line.
- Reservoir: plastic tank on top of the master cylinder that holds fluid (DOT type specified by the manufacturer). It feeds the master cylinder.
- Hydraulic line/pipe and flexible hose: steel hard line and rubber hose that carry fluid under pressure from master to slave.
- Slave cylinder (external type): the cylinder bolted to the transmission bellhousing. Inside: piston, seals, dust boot, mounting flange, bleeder screw (on many external types), and the pushrod or direct piston face that contacts the clutch fork or release bearing. (On a concentric slave cylinder the unit sits inside the bellhousing around the input shaft and often requires transmission removal.)
- Pushrod / clevis pin / fork: transmits movement from the slave piston to the release (throw-out) bearing and pressure plate. The fork pivots on a fulcrum.
- Release/throw-out bearing: rides on the input shaft and presses on the pressure plate fingers to disengage the clutch.
- Clutch assembly (pressure plate + disc): the driven mechanism that engages/disengages engine to transmission.
- Bleeder valve (on slave cylinder or a line fitting): a one-way screw valve used to remove air from the system.
- Fasteners, banjo bolt/washers (if applicable): connect hydraulic hose to slave cylinder. Copper crush washers are often used with banjo bolts.
- Brake/clutch fluid: hydraulic medium (DOT 3/4, check manual). Fluid is hygroscopic and corrosive to paint.

Tools & supplies you’ll need
- Jack and quality jack stands (or a lift)
- Wheel chocks, gloves, safety glasses
- Basic metric socket set, wrenches, torque wrench (consult manual for torques)
- Line wrench (flare nut wrench) for hydraulic fittings
- Screwdrivers, pliers, clevis pin tool (or punch), pry bar
- Drain pan, rags, brake/clutch fluid (correct DOT spec), small funnel
- Replacement slave cylinder (and new banjo bolt/crush washers or flare nuts as needed)
- Bleeding tools: clear tubing, bottle, two-person method or vacuum pump or pressure bleeder
- Optional: brake cleaner, anti-seize, thread locker (per manual)
- Service manual or torque specs for your exact Toyota model

Safety first (non-negotiable)
- Work on level ground, engage parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Use jack stands — never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Wear eye protection; hydraulic fluid can spray.
- Avoid spilling fluid on paint (it damages finish). Clean spills immediately.
- Dispose of old fluid properly.

Theory of operation — simple explanation
- Hydraulic systems use an incompressible fluid to transfer force. Pressing the clutch pedal pushes the master piston, which pressurizes the fluid and moves the slave piston. The slave piston pushes the clutch fork/release bearing to separate the pressure plate from the disc so you can shift. If seals or lines leak, pressure is lost or air enters; the pedal will feel soft or go to the floor, and the clutch won’t disengage properly.

Why the slave cylinder fails
- External leaks: seals degrade; dust boot torn; fluid seeps out at the cylinder body or line fitting.
- Internal seal failure: piston seals wear and allow internal bypass so piston moves poorly.
- Corrosion/contamination: old fluid with moisture causes corrosion and seal swelling/failure.
- Physical damage: impact, heat, or contamination.

Step-by-step replacement (external slave cylinder typical) — beginner-friendly
Note: this is a general guide. Vehicle-specific access points, torque values, and any need to remove parts like splash shields, starter motor, or wheels vary by model — consult the factory manual for your Toyota B 2B for exact details and torques.

1) Preparation
- Park, chock, disconnect negative battery (recommended if you’ll be working near electrical parts).
- Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands. Remove any splash shields or components that block access to the slave cylinder (starter may be removed on some cars).
- Locate the slave cylinder on the transmission bellhousing. Identify the hydraulic line connection and bleeder screw.

2) Clean area and prepare for fluid drain
- Place a drain pan under the slave cylinder and line.
- Clean around fittings to keep dirt out of the system once opened.

3) Remove hydraulic line
- Use a line wrench on the fitting to avoid rounding. If the slave uses a banjo bolt, remove the bolt and discard old crush washers.
- Plug or cap the line to limit fluid loss and prevent contamination (if you have a shop vacuum cap, or just prepare rags). Expect fluid to leak; have rags ready.

4) Unbolt slave cylinder
- Remove the mounting bolts/nuts that secure the slave body to the bellhousing.
- Support the cylinder if needed. Remove it from the transmission. Note how the pushrod/clevis connects to the clutch fork.

5) Inspect surrounding parts
- Check the clutch fork pivot, release bearing, and dust boot condition. If these are worn, consider servicing them while accessible.

6) Prepare the new slave cylinder
- Compare new part to old for correct orientation and fittings.
- If the new unit has a removable pushrod, leave it attached as instructed. Some new units are shipped with the piston fully retracted — good.
- If the system uses a banjo bolt, use new copper crush washers. If it uses flare nuts, inspect copper/sealing surfaces.

7) Bench-bleed the slave (if external and possible)
- For external slave cylinders it’s very helpful to bench-bleed before install:
- Fill the cylinder with clean fluid.
- Attach clear plastic tubing to bleeder screw and feed the other end into a bottle partially filled with fluid (prevents air re-entry).
- Slowly push the piston in and out until no bubbles appear in the tubing. Do not use cloth — use the proper fittings or tubing.
- If the slave mounts directly to the transmission and bleeding is difficult, plan to use a vacuum or pressure bleeder after installation, or perform a two-person pedal bleed.

8) Install slave cylinder
- Fit the cylinder to the bellhousing and hand-start mounting bolts. Torque to factory specs.
- Reconnect the hydraulic line using new washers/clean threads. Tighten snugly with a line wrench. Don’t overtighten — refer to manual torque values.

9) Reconnect any clevis pin or return spring
- Reattach the pushrod to the clutch fork with the pin/retainer as removed. Ensure the dust boot is seated to keep dirt out.

10) Refill reservoir
- Fill reservoir with the correct DOT brake/clutch fluid to the Full line.

11) Bleed the system (remove air)
- Recommended methods:
- Two-person pedal bleed:
- Person A sits in the car and pumps the pedal several times, then holds pedal to the floor.
- Person B opens the slave bleeder valve slightly to let air/fluid out into tubing, then closes valve.
- Person A slowly releases pedal, then repeats until no air bubbles appear and pedal feels firm. Keep reservoir topped up.
- Vacuum bleed (single person):
- Attach a vacuum pump to the bleeder and draw until only fluid (no air) emerges. Top up reservoir as needed.
- Pressure bleeder:
- Apply pressure to reservoir and open bleeder until no bubbles appear.
- Bleeding tip: keep reservoir topped up; never let it run dry, or more air will enter.

12) Final checks
- Tighten bleeder valve to spec. Wipe away spilled fluid.
- Cycle the clutch pedal several times; it should feel firm and consistent.
- Inspect all connections for leaks with system under pressure (pedal depressed or engine running and clutch actuated).
- Reinstall any components you removed (starter, splash shield, etc.). Lower vehicle.

13) Road test
- Start the vehicle and check clutch engagement: shifts should be smooth; clutch should disengage cleanly with pedal travel consistent with before failure.
- Recheck for leaks after warm-up and test drive.

Common problems and troubleshooting
- Pedal still soft after bleed: likely remaining air — repeat bleeding, use vacuum/pressure bleeder. Inspect for leaks at master/slave/lines.
- Fluid level drops quickly: active leak in slave, master, or line. Locate leak; don’t drive with leaking clutch.
- Pedal firm but clutch doesn’t disengage: mechanical linkage misassembled, pushrod not adjusted or incorrectly installed, release bearing or fork damaged.
- Slave bleeder stripped or seized: you may need to replace the slave or the fitting; seize is common on old threads.
- New unit leaks after install: banjo bolt washers missing or not seated, or flare seat contaminated — remake the connection with new washers and clean surfaces.
- If flexible hose is soft or damaged, replace it — a collapsed hose can cause poor performance.
- If replacing any hydraulic component, always use fresh fluid and bleed thoroughly — air is the enemy.

Maintenance & prevention
- Replace clutch/brake fluid per maintenance schedule (fluid ages, absorbs moisture).
- Inspect boots and hoses for cracks regularly.
- Use OEM or quality replacement parts. Reusing copper crush washers or old hoses is a common source of leaks.

Analogy summary
- Think of master and slave as two syringes connected by a tube. If the tube is intact and the syringes are sealed, pushing one pushes the other. A hole (leak) or a sponge (air) in the tube makes the system fail. Replacing the slave is like replacing the second syringe when its seal is bad.

Extra tips (practical)
- Always bench-bleed external cylinders if possible — it removes most of the air before installation.
- Keep the work area clean; contamination of hydraulic ports causes seal failure.
- If you find milky fluid, the system has water contamination — replace fluid and consider more frequent service.
- For concentric slave cylinders inside bellhousing: this usually requires removing the transmission. If your Toyota B 2B uses a concentric unit, be prepared for a much larger job and consult service manual for torque and alignment procedures. Consider professional help if you’re unsure about transmission removal.

You’re done — quick checklist before finishing
- New slave installed and torqued.
- Hydraulic line secured with new washers/clean fittings.
- System bled with no air, pedal feels firm.
- No leaks under pressure.
- Reinstalled any removed components and lowered vehicle.
- Test drive confirms clutch operation.

No further questions asked.
rteeqp73