- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and sturdy clothing.
- Work on a level surface, engage parking brake, block wheels that remain on the ground.
- Use a jack only to lift; always support the vehicle with rated jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on or near the transmission to avoid electrical shorts or accidental starter engagement.

- Overview of the job (what “output flange” repair means)
- The output flange (also called output yoke, companion flange, drive flange) mates the gearbox output shaft to the driveshaft/propeller shaft.
- Common repair needs: flange worn/grooved, cracked flange, loose flange bolts, leaking output shaft seal, damaged output shaft bearing.
- Simple repairs (flange or seal replacement) can be DIY with basic tools. Bearing or output-shaft replacement usually requires transmission removal and press work — consider a shop for that.

- Tools you probably already have (basic) — description and how to use them
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Use to lift one end of the vehicle. Place the jack under the recommended jacking point. Pump handle to raise. Do not use as lone support.
- Jack stands (rated)
- Place under sturdy frame or pinch-weld points. Lower vehicle onto stands by slowly releasing the jack.
- Wheel chocks
- Place behind wheels remaining on ground to prevent rolling.
- Combination wrenches (open end/box end)
- Use matched-size wrench to hold or turn bolts when a socket won't fit. Pull toward you with steady force; avoid sudden jerks to prevent rounding bolts.
- Socket set (metric), ratchet and extensions
- Use correct-size socket on the bolt head. Ratchet for tight/loose turning; extensions reach recessed fasteners. Use a long handle for extra leverage sparingly.
- Breaker bar
- Long non-ratcheting bar to break loose tight bolts. Apply steady pressure; don’t use cheater pipes beyond rated length.
- Torque wrench (click type, appropriate range)
- Tighten bolts to specified torque. Set value, tighten slowly until it clicks. Essential for flange bolts and transmission mounting bolts.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- For prying small items (carefully) and removing clips/screws.
- Hammer and soft-faced mallet
- Use a rubber or dead-blow mallet to tap components into place without damage. Avoid heavy steel hammer blows near seals or soft aluminum parts.
- Punch and drift
- For driving out roll pins or alignment dowels carefully.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint)
- For removing clips, pulling seals, holding small parts.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist penetrating)
- Spray stuck bolts and studs, allow soak time before attempting removal.

- Additional tools you will likely need (explain why)
- Snap ring (circlip) pliers
- Many flanges or bearings are retained by snap rings. Use the correct type (internal or external) to safely compress/expand the ring for removal/installation.
- Seal puller
- Removes the output shaft oil seal without damaging the bore. A hooked puller grips and extracts the seal lip.
- Seal driver or appropriately sized socket and soft hammer
- To install the new oil seal squarely and flush. Using the wrong driver will cock the seal and cause leaks.
- Flange/drive-yoke puller or three-jaw puller with long bolts
- Flange often presses on the shaft; a puller removes it without hammering the shaft and causing damage.
- Slide hammer (optional)
- Useful if flange is stubborn and a puller can't get purchase. Use carefully to avoid damaging shaft splines.
- Service manual or repair guide for your exact Toyota B 2B model
- Provides torque specs, disassembly sequence, special tool numbers, and clear illustrations. Essential for correct reassembly.
- Torque-angle tool or calibrated torque wrench and service manual if torque-plus-angle tightening used
- Some flange bolts require torque-to-yield or angle specification. The manual indicates this.
- Transmission jack or floor jack with a block of wood (if removing gearbox)
- If you must drop the gearbox to replace bearings or shaft, you need a stable transmission jack to lower/raise the gearbox safely.
- Bearing puller and press (or access to a shop press)
- If bearings must be replaced, you’ll need to press the old bearing off and press the new one on squarely. This is difficult and risky to do without a press; a professional shop is recommended for bearing work.
- Thread locker (blue medium strength) and anti-seize (where specified)
- Thread locker keeps flange bolts from vibrating loose; anti-seize may be used on exhaust or other specified fasteners. Use per manual.

- Step-by-step repair outline (high-level, in order) — follow service manual for your vehicle and exact torque specs
- Prepare and secure vehicle: chock wheels, lift, support on jack stands, disconnect battery.
- Remove driveshaft/prop shaft:
- Mark the alignment of the drive flange to flange (match marks) so driveshaft balance is maintained on reassembly.
- Remove flange bolts (apply penetrating oil first if rusty). Use breaker bar if needed. Keep bolts and note any locking tabs or washers.
- Remove driveshaft from flange and secure out of the way.
- Inspect flange and output shaft:
- Look for grooves, cracks, excessive wear on splines, bolt holes elongated, or any movement indicating bearing play.
- Check the output shaft oil seal for leaks and the surrounding lubricant level.
- Remove flange:
- Remove any snap ring or retaining hardware with snap ring pliers.
- Use a flange puller or three-jaw puller to pull the flange straight off the shaft. Protect the shaft splines and flange face.
- If the flange is stuck, apply penetrating oil and let it soak; use a slide hammer as a last resort.
- Inspect output shaft and seal bore:
- If shaft splines are worn/grooved, driving on a new flange will likely reintroduce play and can lead to vibration — flange replacement alone is not enough.
- If only the seal is leaking and shaft splines are good, you can replace the seal and reuse the flange if it’s otherwise undamaged.
- Replace output shaft oil seal (if leaking or anytime flange removed)
- Pry out the old seal with a seal puller being careful not to scratch the bore.
- Clean the bore. Lightly coat the new seal lip with gear oil.
- Use a seal driver or correctly sized socket to press the new seal squarely until flush with the case.
- Fit new flange (if required)
- If flange is damaged, obtain the correct replacement (OEM or quality aftermarket) for your gearbox model.
- Clean splines and apply light oil or assembly lube as specified.
- Press the flange onto the shaft squarely. Use a press or a properly sized socket to evenly drive the flange home; do not hammer directly on the flange face unless using a soft mallet and only for a light tap.
- Install any snap rings or retaining hardware.
- Reinstall flange bolts using thread locker if recommended. Torque to spec from the service manual. If angle tightening is required, follow the manual exactly.
- Reinstall driveshaft aligned with match marks, secure bolts, torque to spec.
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery, test drive slowly to check for vibration/leaks.

- How to use specific tools for the tasks
- Flange puller / 3-jaw puller
- Hook jaws behind flange lip, center the forcing screw on the shaft end, turn forcing screw clockwise with a wrench to pull the flange straight off. Keep the puller centered to avoid bending the flange.
- Snap ring pliers
- Insert tips into ring holes, squeeze to compress (internal) or expand (external) and carefully remove. Keep fingers clear if the ring snaps off.
- Seal puller
- Insert hook behind the seal lip, pull outward with steady force. Work around the circumference rather than prying on one point.
- Seal driver / socket method
- Choose a driver or socket that matches the outer diameter of the seal. Place seal square to bore and tap evenly with a mallet until fully seated.
- Torque wrench
- Set required torque, snug bolts in a crisscross pattern if applicable, then apply final torque until the wrench clicks once. Re-check after initial short road test.

- Parts that may need replacing and why
- Output flange (companion flange / yoke)
- Replace if cracked, bent, spline grooves worn, bolt holes elongated, or flange is visibly damaged. A damaged flange causes vibration, driveline play, and can fail catastrophically.
- Output shaft oil seal
- Replace if leaking. Good practice to replace the seal whenever the flange is removed to avoid future leaks.
- Flange bolts and washers
- Replace if they are stretched, corroded, or torque-to-yield type (single-use). Always use new fasteners if the manual specifies.
- Snap ring / retaining ring
- Replace if deformed or brittle.
- Output shaft bearing(s)
- Replace if you find excessive axial or radial play or noisy operation. Bearing replacement often requires gearbox removal and press work; consider a shop.
- Output shaft or spline (shaft)
- If splines are severely worn/grooved or shaft is scored, replacement of the shaft or full gearbox rebuild may be required — this is a major repair.
- Gaskets, O-rings, seals
- Replace any disturbed gaskets or O-rings during disassembly to ensure leak-free reassembly.

- How to obtain the correct replacement parts
- Use the vehicle VIN, transmission model code, or the gearbox part number from the service manual or the gearbox tag to identify the exact parts.
- Match the old part visually and by part number at a dealer or reputable parts supplier.
- OEM parts typically fit without modification; good-quality aftermarket parts are acceptable if specs match.
- Bring the old flange to the parts store to ensure fitment or order using the exact gearbox/transmission code.

- When to stop and call a professional
- If you find worn output shaft splines, shaft damage, bearing noise or play, or if the flange won’t press on/off with hand tools. These conditions typically require gearbox disassembly and a press — specialized tools and experience are needed.
- If you lack a press, transmission jack, or a safe workspace to support and lower the gearbox.
- If torque-to-yield bolts or angle-specified fasteners are involved and you don’t have the correct tools.

- Final checks and test
- After reassembly, double-check torque on all fasteners to specs in the service manual.
- Check fluid level in the gearbox if any fluid was lost; top to correct specification.
- Start engine and test drive at low speed; listen for vibration or unusual noises, recheck for leaks after a short drive, then re-torque bolts if the manual recommends a re-check.

- Quick summary of likely replacement parts to buy before starting (bring old parts to confirm)
- Output flange / companion flange (OEM or correct aftermarket match)
- Output shaft oil seal (correct size)
- Flange bolts (and washers) or replacement kit if specified
- Snap ring / retaining ring (if fitted)
- Thread locker and light assembly lube / gear oil
- Optional: bearing kit (only if you confirm bearing damage)

- Final note
- Follow the factory service manual for exact procedures and torque specs for your Toyota B 2B gearbox. If you are unsure at any point, especially where bearings or shafts are involved, get the work done by a professional transmission shop.


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