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Toyota Hiace Van 1989-2004 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools needed
- Metric socket set (including crank pulley socket) and ratchet + breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Feeler gauge set (metric, 0.05 mm increments)
- Combination wrenches (open-end) for locknuts / adjuster nuts
- Flat screwdriver (if adjuster screws)
- Small magnet, pick, or shim pliers (for shim-type engines)
- Clean rags, solvent (degreaser)
- Small mirror / inspection light
- Valve cover gasket (replacement recommended)
- Replacement shims or shim kit (if bucket/shim type)
- Shop gloves, safety glasses

Safety & prep
- Work on a cold engine (valve clearances measured on cold engine). Hot measurements give wrong clearance.
- Park on level ground, apply handbrake, chock wheels. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be removing electricals.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep loose clothing and jewelry away from rotating tools.
- Have a clean tray for bolts/shims to avoid losing them into the engine.
- Verify exact valve clearance specs and torque figures for your Hiace engine from the Toyota service manual for the engine code (2L, 3L, 1KZ, 2KD, etc.). Clearances and procedure vary by engine.

General principle (what you’re doing)
- You are measuring the clearance between the valve stem (or bucket) and the rocker/tappet base circle. Adjust when the cam lobe for that valve is on its base circle (valve fully closed). Use a feeler gauge: it should slide with a light drag. Tightening the adjuster reduces clearance; loosening increases it.

Procedure A — rocker arm with screw-and-locknut adjusters (common on older petrol/diesel Hiace)
1. Remove engine covers, air intake components and battery as needed to access valve cover. Remove valve cover bolts and lift cover; clean gasket surface and remove old gasket.
2. Rotate engine to cylinder 1 TDC (compression). Use a socket on the crank bolt and rotate clockwise. Align crank timing mark to TDC and ensure the cam lobe for cylinder 1 intake and exhaust are on the base circle (both valves closed). If unsure, confirm compression stroke by watching valve train or removing spark plug/glow plug and feeling compression with your finger (petrol) or using a compression indicator; or follow firing order and rotate as below.
3. With the feeler gauge of the specified thickness for intake valve (spec example: 0.15–0.20 mm for intake; check manual), insert between rocker pad and valve stem tip. You should feel a light drag. If gauge is too loose → decrease clearance by turning adjuster screw in; if too tight → increase clearance by backing screw out.
4. Adjustment: loosen the locknut a fraction, hold the screw with a screwdriver and turn to set gap. While holding the screwdriver to maintain the screw position, tighten the locknut with the wrench. Re-check clearance — tightening the locknut can alter the setting. Repeat until the feeler gauge slides with slight drag after final tightening.
5. Repeat for the exhaust valve on the same cylinder.
6. Rotate the crank to the next cylinder that reaches TDC on compression according to firing order (typical inline-4 Toyota order 1-3-4-2). Adjust that cylinder’s valves when its cam lobes are at base circle. Sequence example for 4-cylinder: adjust 1, then rotate 180° to get 3, then 180° to get 4, then 180° to get 2 (confirm with cam timing marks). For 6-cylinder follow service manual sequence.
7. After all valves adjusted, clean surfaces, install new valve cover gasket, reassemble cover and components. Torque valve cover bolts to spec.

How to use the feeler gauge properly
- Select the correct gauge thickness for the specified valve (intake/exhaust). Slide the blade between the rocker and valve stem with the engine cold. You want a light drag. If it’s loose/very easy to insert, gap is too big; if it doesn’t go in, gap is too small. When tightening locknut, hold screw steady to avoid changing gap.

Procedure B — shim-under-bucket (common on many Toyota diesels: 1KD, 2KD, 1KZ)
Note: this is more involved — camshaft or camshaft caps often must be removed. If you’re not experienced, plan to remove cam assembly and follow torque sequences precisely.
1. Access is the same: remove valve cover. Identify buckets (short cylindrical tappets) and shims seated on top of valve stems.
2. Rotate engine to the cylinder where the cam lobe is on the base circle under the bucket for the valve(s) you will measure.
3. Use a feeler gauge between bucket top and rocker/cam support if applicable — many shim systems are measured by removing the bucket and measuring shim thickness directly. More common method: measure actual clearance (if possible) then calculate required shim thickness:
- Required shim = Current shim + (measured clearance − specified clearance)
4. To replace shim: remove retainer/cap per manual, carefully lift off camshaft (or swing out rocker if applicable) so you can remove the bucket. Use magnet/pick to remove shim. Fit new shim of calculated thickness. Reassemble camshaft caps to specified torque and sequence.
5. Rotate engine through two revolutions and re-check clearances to ensure correct valve train seating.

Replacement parts required
- Valve cover gasket (recommended every time cover is removed).
- Shims if bucket/shim type and any shims outside tolerance.
- Locknuts/adjuster screws if rounding or damaged.
- Small parts like rocker arm pads or tips if worn.

Final checks and reassembly
- After adjusting all valves, rotate engine by hand through two full revolutions, recheck random clearances to confirm nothing shifted.
- Clean mating surfaces and fit new valve cover gasket. Torque bolts to factory spec.
- Reinstall removed components, reconnect battery, start engine and listen for abnormal noise. Small valve noises can be normal on some diesel engines but excessive clatter indicates wrong clearance or a loose locking nut.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Adjusting on a warm engine — gives wrong clearance. Always cold.
- Setting clearances with cam lobe still partially on the base circle — be certain cam is on full base circle (no lift).
- Not holding the adjuster screw while tightening locknut — causes clearance to change. Always re-check after final tightening.
- Dropping shims into the head or timing cover — use a magnetic pickup, tray, and work over a prepared area.
- Using imperial feeler gauges vs metric — use correct units to match specs.
- Reusing old valve cover gasket — leads to leaks. Replace it.
- Ignoring torque specs for cam caps and valve cover bolts — may warp or leak.
- Overtightening adjuster locknuts — can damage threads.

Time estimate
- Screw-and-locknut style: 1–3 hours depending on access.
- Shim-under-bucket: 4–8+ hours (more if cam removal required).

Notes
- Valve clearance specs, torque values, and exact adjustment sequence depend on engine code and year. Use the Toyota service manual for your Hiace engine for the correct spec numbers and cam/bolt torque sequences.
- If you are uncomfortable with shim calculation or cam removal, consider a shop for shim replacement.

Done.
rteeqp73

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