Tools & materials (short): jack stands, wheel chocks, drain pan, ratchet/metric sockets, breaker bar, pry bar, marking paint, seal puller or small chisel, soft-faced hammer, appropriate-size seal driver or large socket, new output shaft seal (OEM or equivalent), assembly lube or same fluid used in housing, shop rags, safety glasses, torque wrench, thread locker (if needed), service manual for torque/specs.

Ordered procedure with theory (concise):

1) Safety & prep — park on level, chock wheels, raise vehicle on stands, disconnect battery if working near electrics.
Theory: stable, safe working position prevents accidents and avoids contamination.

2) Diagnose & confirm source — clean area, run engine/rotate shafts, identify leak path (trail from seal, not from axle flange or transfer case).
Theory: oil can migrate; confirming exact leaking seal prevents unnecessary work.

3) Drain fluid if seal is internal to filled housing (diff/trans/transfer) — place pan and drain to below seal level.
Theory: reduces spill, prevents contamination of work area, avoids loss of fluid/cause of air entry.

4) Mark driveline orientation if you'll remove the driveshaft or yoke (paint).
Theory: preserves balance and reduces vibration after reassembly.

5) Remove driveshaft or propshaft to expose output yoke or flange — loosen bolts on flange and slide shaft away.
Theory: gives access to the seal without removing entire transmission; many output seals are accessed from the rear.

6) Support transmission/axle if removing carrier or yoke — use transmission jack or support under housing.
Theory: prevents strain on mounting points and avoids misalignment when bolts are removed.

7) Remove output yoke/flange/retainer plate as required to access outer seal.
Theory: exposes the lip seal face so it can be removed and replaced.

8) Inspect shaft surface where seal rides — look for scoring, pitting, burrs, corrosion, chamfer edges, measure diameter and runout if possible.
Theory: seals rely on a smooth, correct-diameter running surface. A damaged shaft will cut a new seal immediately, causing continued leakage. Excessive runout or out-of-spec diameter requires shaft/bearing/differential repair.

9) Remove the old seal — pry evenly from housing with seal puller or small flat tool, avoiding bore damage.
Theory: damaged housing bore will also leak; remove carefully to avoid enlarging/roughing the bore.

10) Clean housing bore and shaft thoroughly — remove old lip material and debris, solvent-wipe, dry.
Theory: debris under a new seal lip causes abrasive wear and leaks.

11) Prepare new seal: confirm orientation (lip faces the fluid), lightly coat inner lip with appropriate fluid/assembly lube, check outer diameter for fit.
Theory: the lip must contact the shaft and face the fluid to retain it; pre-lubrication prevents dry run wear on first start.

12) Install new seal squarely with a driver that presses on the outer case only — seat to specified depth/flushness.
Theory: even, perpendicular seating ensures uniform compression of the lip and correct axial position relative to shaft; seating too deep or tilted will distort lip contact.

13) Re-check shaft for nicks or raised burrs at the seal edge; lightly polish or remove burrs/machine if needed.
Theory: an edge-protrusion will cut the lip each rotation; eliminating it increases seal life.

14) Reinstall yoke/flange/retainer with correct torque and any specified threadlocker, using alignment marks.
Theory: correct clamping prevents play that could move the shaft relative to the seal and cause leaks; balance preserved by alignment.

15) Reinstall driveshaft, torque bolts to spec.
Theory: returns driveline to proper geometry to avoid vibration and undue loading of the seal.

16) Refill housing with correct fluid to proper level, bleed if required.
Theory: restoring fluid prevents overheating, bearing starvation, and also lets you verify new seal for leaks under static fluid pressure.

17) Lower vehicle, run and cycle load (idle, gentle drive) while observing for leaks — recheck torque after initial run if required.
Theory: dynamic pressure and shaft rotation reveal slow leaks; early recheck catches under-torqued fasteners.

18) Final inspection — confirm no seepage, proper fluid level, and no abnormal noises or vibration.
Theory: ensures repair fixed the leak and didn't introduce new mechanical issues.

How the repair fixes the fault (theory):
- The output shaft seal is a spring-loaded elastomer lip that rides on the shaft and forms a hydrodynamic and contact seal. Over time heat, oil additives, grit, and shaft wear harden or tear the lip, or contaminants and shaft damage cut the sealing surface. Replacing the seal restores the elastic lip geometry and spring tension needed to maintain contact pressure, preventing oil migration.
- Proper cleaning and inspection remove abrasive particles and identify shaft or bore damage—repairing or machining these surfaces restores the smooth mating interface the new seal requires. Installing the seal squarely at the correct depth ensures correct lip compression and sealing angle; torquing the flange and maintaining shaft alignment prevents lateral movement that would break the seal.
- Replacing the seal alone fixes leaks caused by degraded lip material or improper seating; if the root cause is shaft scoring, bearing failure, excessive runout, or overfilled/pressurized system, those must be corrected too, otherwise the new seal will fail prematurely.

Quick failure causes to watch for (concise):
- Hardened/aged elastomer, heat aging
- Shaft scoring/corrosion
- Excessive endplay/runout or loose flange bolts
- Contaminants embedded in the lip
- Overpressure from clogged breather or wrong fluid levels

End.
rteeqp73

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