- Safety first
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and keep loose clothing/jewelry away from moving parts.
- Work on a flat surface, use quality jackstands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect the battery before starting. Drain engine oil and coolant into proper containers.
- If any step looks beyond your skill or requires machining (grinding/honing/crankshaft work), stop and take the engine to a machine shop.

- What "doing the main bearings" means (brief)
- Replace or inspect the main bearing shells that support the crankshaft, check thrust clearance, and inspect crank journals. This can be a “partial” job (remove caps and replace shells) or a full rebuild (remove crankshaft, machine it if needed, fit undersize bearings).

- Basic tools you should have (detailed description and how to use each)
- Socket set (metric), ratchet, extensions
- Description: 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drive sockets, metric sizes common on Toyota engines.
- How to use: Use correct-size socket on bolts to avoid rounding heads; extensions help reach deep bolts.
- Why required: Remove oil pan, main caps, accessories.
- Breaker bar
- Description: Long-handled bar for loosening tight bolts.
- How to use: Use steady force; avoid sudden jerks. Hold socket square to bolt.
- Why required: Some bolts (main caps, crank pulley) are very tight.
- Torque wrench (metric, adequate range — e.g., 20–200 Nm or equivalent range)
- Description: Click- or beam-type wrench calibrated to specified torques.
- How to use: Set specified torque, tighten smoothly until wrench clicks. Use correct sequence and increments per manual.
- Why required: Main cap and crank bolts must be torqued to specification to avoid bearing failure.
- Feeler gauges
- Description: Thin steel blades of known thickness.
- How to use: Slide between parts to check clearance.
- Why required: Useful for checking simple clearances like thrust play or cap-to-block gap if manual calls for it.
- Plastigauge
- Description: Narrow strips of soft plastic that squash to measure oil clearance.
- How to use: Put a short strip on crank journal, install cap and torque to spec, remove cap and measure the flattened width against chart.
- Why required: Quick, inexpensive way to measure main bearing oil clearance without micrometers or bore gauge.
- Micrometer (outside micrometer) and inside calipers
- Description: Precision tools to measure journal and bearing inner diameter.
- How to use: Measure crank journal diameter (micrometer). Measure bearing shell ID if removing/installing or measure bore with inside calipers then calculate clearance.
- Why required: To determine whether journals are within spec or need machining and to select correct bearing size.
- Dial bore gauge or telescoping gauge (preferred for accuracy)
- Description: Dial bore gauge measures bores/journal dimensions precisely.
- How to use: Zero against a reference micrometer, measure bearing bore or journal to get accurate diameter.
- Why required: For accurate clearance checks if you plan to do more than a quick plastigauge check.
- Engine hoist (cherry picker) and engine stand (if removing engine)
- Description: Hoist to lift engine; stand to rotate and work on engine safely.
- How to use: Attach lifting points specified by manufacturer; bolt engine to stand.
- Why required: Often easier and safer to remove engine for full crank inspection and machining.
- Floor jack and quality jackstands
- Description: Jack to lift vehicle, jackstands to hold securely.
- How to use: Position on pinch welds or frame, lower onto stands before working under car.
- Why required: Access to oil pan and bottom of engine.
- Oil drain pan and absorbent pads
- Description: Containers for catching oil and coolant.
- How to use: Place under engine when draining fluids.
- Why required: Keeps workspace clean and safe.
- Clean shop rags, brushes, solvent/degreaser
- Description: For cleaning mating surfaces and removing sludge.
- How to use: Clean surfaces thoroughly before assembly.
- Why required: Contaminants damage bearings.
- Soft-faced mallet or dead blow hammer
- Description: Non-marring hammer for gentle persuasion.
- How to use: Tap bearing caps or components into place without damage.
- Why required: Avoids damaging machined surfaces.
- Scraper and gasket remover
- Description: To remove old gaskets and sealant.
- How to use: Carefully scrape surfaces flat; do not gouge metal.
- Why required: Proper sealing on reassembly.
- Torque-angle gauge (if specified by manual)
- Description: Measures additional rotation (degrees) after torque step.
- How to use: Use when bolts require angle-tightening.
- Why required: Some engines require torque+angle for critical bolts.

- Specialty or extra tools you may need (why required)
- Main bearing installation tool / shell installer (optional)
- Description: Tool to help seat new thin-shell bearings in caps/bores.
- Why required: Helps seat bearings squarely but not strictly necessary for experienced hands.
- Crankshaft pulley holder or flywheel holding tool
- Description: Holds crankshaft from turning when loosening/tightening crank bolts.
- Why required: Needed if removing harmonic balancer or tightening crank bolt.
- Impact wrench (helpful but optional)
- Description: Pneumatic or electric tool that loosens tight bolts quickly.
- Why required: Speeds removal of stubborn bolts; use caution for reassembly (use torque wrench).
- Engine stand-mounted dial indicator (to check crank end play)
- Description: Measures axial (thrust) movement of crankshaft precisely.
- Why required: To check thrust clearance against spec.
- Crankshaft micrometers and journal fillet gauges (if machining)
- Description: Specialized measuring tools used by machine shops.
- Why required: If journals are worn you’ll need a machine shop to grind and supply matching undersize bearings.

- Parts likely required / recommended replacement and why
- Main bearings (new full set)
- Why: Bearings wear and are designed to be replaced when clearances are out of spec or during rebuild.
- Notes: Buy correct OEM or quality aftermarket bearings for 1FZ-FE; bearings come in standard and undersize (e.g., 0.25/0.50 mm) if crank is machined.
- Thrust washers (main thrust bearings)
- Why: Control axial play of crank; wear here causes endplay issues and should be replaced if worn.
- Main cap bolts (and connecting rod bolts if disturbed)
- Why: Some bolts are torque-to-yield or stretch over time; replace if specified by Toyota or if bolts show elongation/damage.
- Rear main seal, oil pan gasket, oil pump seals/gaskets, timing cover gasket
- Why: Removed parts need new seals/gaskets to prevent leaks on reassembly.
- Oil and oil filter
- Why: New oil is required after assembly; clean filter needed to avoid contamination.
- Crankshaft (possible) or machining service
- Why: If journals are scored, worn beyond tolerance, or out of round, crank must be ground and/or polished or replaced. This requires matching undersize bearings.
- Bearings for connecting rods (rod bearings)
- Why: If the engine is opened and bearings show wear, replace rod bearings too.
- Assembly lube
- Why: Protect bearings on initial start-up before oil pressure builds.

- How to use key measurement/assembly tools (short, practical)
- Plastigauge
- Put a 10–20 mm length of plastigauge along journal centerline.
- Fit bearing shell and cap (with new bearing) and torque to spec.
- Remove cap, measure flattened width against chart, compare to manual clearance.
- Clean plastigauge off thoroughly; do not reuse it.
- Micrometer
- Clean journal, measure diameter at several places (axial and around circumference).
- Note smallest measurement — this is critical for clearance calculation.
- Dial bore gauge
- Zero gauge using micrometer, then measure main bore/seat to determine roundness and taper.
- Use results to decide if machining is needed.
- Torque wrench
- Clean and lightly oil threads if manual calls for it (follow manual).
- Tighten in the specified sequence and in stages (hand, half torque, final torque) when required.

- Typical step-by-step workflow (high level, no torque numbers)
- Remove accessories, intake/exhaust as needed, drain oil/coolant, remove oil pan.
- Remove oil pump and pickup (note screen condition), undo main caps in correct sequence, mark caps and journals to keep orientation.
- With caps removed, inspect crank journals for scoring, pitting, or discoloration.
- Measure journal diameters, bearing bore dimensions, and use plastigauge to check clearances or use bore gauge/micrometer for precise measurement.
- Compare measurements to factory specifications (service manual). If within spec, fit new bearings and reassemble. If out of spec, send crankshaft to machine shop (grind/polish or replace) and select correct undersize bearings.
- Replace thrust washers if worn and set axial clearance per manual.
- Install new gaskets, seals, and torque all bolts to factory specs in proper sequence.
- Reassemble oil pump, pan, and other components. Refill oil and coolant, prime oiling system if possible (pre-lube), and run engine while checking for leaks and oil pressure.

- How to judge whether you can do it as a beginner or need a shop
- You can replace bearing shells and measure clearances with plastigauge as a competent DIYer with patience and correct tools.
- If crank journals show scoring, are out of round, or undersized, you will need a machine shop for grinding and a press; stop and consult a shop.
- If you don’t have or don’t feel comfortable using measuring tools, torque wrench, or an engine hoist, get professional help.

- Common problems and red flags
- Deep grooves or blue/heat discoloration on journals — requires machining or crank replacement.
- Excessive thrust clearance or worn thrust washers — leads to transmission/shaft problems if not fixed.
- Low oil pressure after assembly — possible incorrect clearances, oil pump damage, or assembly error. Stop engine immediately if this occurs.
- Oil leaks after reassembly — check gaskets/seals and torque sequence.

- Final recommendations
- Get the Toyota 1FZ-FE factory service manual before starting — it contains torque specs, bolt reuse info, clearance specs, and sequences.
- Buy a full bearing kit (main + rod bearings) and seals/gaskets before starting.
- If you’re unsure about measuring or machining decisions, have measurements checked by or work done with a professional engine machinist.
- Replace consumables (oil, filter, gaskets, seals) as part of the job.

- Quick supplies checklist to buy
- Full bearing set (main + rod), thrust washers
- Rear main seal, oil pan gasket, oil pump gasket
- New main cap bolts if specified or suspect
- Assembly lube, engine oil, oil filter
- Plastigauge, micrometer (or access to one), torque wrench

- Safety finish
- Re-check all fasteners and re-torque as required. Monitor oil pressure and leaks closely on first start. If anything abnormal, shut down and inspect.
rteeqp73

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1FZ-FE Pulling two fzj80 series Land Cruiser Engine, transmission and transfer case in one Day 1FZ-FE Pulling two 80 series Land Cruiser Engine, transmission and transfer case in one Day.

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Summary (one line): The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve on the Toyota 1FZ‑FE recirculates a controlled amount of exhaust into the intake to lower combustion temperatures and NOx; replacing it means removing the old valve and gasket, checking/cleaning related parts (vacuum lines, VSV, passages), and installing a new valve while avoiding carbon contamination and vacuum/electrical faults.

What the EGR system is and why it matters (theory, in beginner terms)
- Purpose: EGR reduces combustion temperature by mixing a bit of cooled exhaust gas into the incoming air/fuel. Lower combustion temperature = less NOx formed. Think of it like adding a slice of cool water to hot soup so the temperature drops a bit.
- How it works (simple): The ECU tells an EGR vacuum switching valve (VSV) or solenoid to open or close. That controls vacuum to the EGR valve diaphragm (or an electronic actuator), which opens a pintle or poppet and allows exhaust gas to flow from the exhaust manifold/pipe into an EGR passage and then into the intake manifold.
- Typical components (what you’ll see on a 1FZ‑FE and what each part does):
- EGR valve (diaphragm-actuated/poppet style on many 1FZ‑FE models): the mechanical valve that meters exhaust flow.
- EGR mounting gasket: seals the valve to the intake/exhaust port.
- EGR vacuum switching valve (VSV) or solenoid: ECU‑controlled; routes vacuum to the EGR valve.
- Vacuum lines / check valve: small rubber hoses carrying vacuum; a one‑way check valve prevents backflow from exhaust pulses.
- EGR passages in intake manifold / exhaust manifold: channels that route exhaust gas.
- Electrical connector (if present on the VSV or EGR sensor): provides ECU control or feedback.
- Hardware: mounting bolts/studs, banjo/pipe fittings if the valve attaches to a metal tube.

What goes wrong (failure modes and symptoms)
- Carbon build-up: Most common. Carbon deposits on the valve seat and pintle prevent it from sealing or moving — symptoms: rough idle, hesitation, poor fuel economy, white/black smoke, or check engine light (EGR flow codes).
- Stuck open: too much exhaust, causes rough idle, stalling, low power.
- Stuck closed: no EGR flow, elevated NOx, possible ping/knock, and an emissions test failure.
- Diaphragm leak (vacuum leak): valve won’t hold vacuum, won’t open; leads to EGR not operating and vacuum leaks cause rough idle.
- Faulty VSV or vacuum hoses: no vacuum to the valve.
- Gasket leaks or stripped bolts/studs: vacuum leak or exhaust leak causing noise and incorrect operation.
- Electrical faults (on models with sensors/actuators): ECU can’t command EGR.

Tools & parts you’ll need
- Parts:
- Replacement EGR valve (OEM or quality aftermarket specific to 1FZ‑FE).
- New EGR mounting gasket (always replace).
- New vacuum hose(s) or check valve if brittle/cracked.
- Tools:
- Basic socket set (metric), ratchet, extensions.
- Torque wrench (to properly tighten mounting bolts).
- Screwdrivers, pliers.
- Hand vacuum pump with gauge (to bench test diaphragm).
- Small wire brush or brass brush and throttle-body / carburetor cleaner (carbon cleaner).
- Clean rags, shop towels.
- Small mirror and flashlight.
- Penetrating oil (if bolts are rusty).
- Optional: OBD scanner to clear codes and verify operation.
- Safety:
- Work with the engine cool. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Use proper ventilation when using cleaners. Disconnect battery if you will be working around electrical connectors significantly.

Preparation and safety steps (non-yapping)
1. Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
2. Work on a cold engine. Removing parts from a hot engine risks burns and warped parts.
3. Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you’ll be unplugging electrical components or to avoid accidental cranking while working.
4. Take clear photos of vacuum hoses and electrical connectors before removal — you’ll be glad you did.

Step‑by‑step EGR valve replacement (detailed)
1. Locate the EGR valve
- On the 1FZ‑FE the EGR valve is normally mounted on the intake manifold side near the throttle area or bolted to an intake/exhaust junction. You should see a small round valve body with vacuum hoses attached (or an electrical connector if equipped). Identify the vacuum hoses and VSV (usually on the firewall or intake near the valve).

2. Remove obstructing components
- Remove the air intake hose or air cleaner housing pieces that block access. Keep screws and clamps organized.
- If a heat shield or other bracket covers the EGR, unbolt it and set aside.

3. Label and disconnect vacuum hoses & electrical connectors
- Use your photos. Label each vacuum hose with tape/marker. Remove hoses by pulling off gently; use pliers for tight hoses but avoid cutting unless you will replace them.
- Disconnect any electrical connector(s) to the EGR VSV or valve.

4. Remove the EGR mounting bolts and valve
- Spray penetrating oil on bolts/studs if rusty; allow to soak.
- Loosen and remove the mounting bolts. Keep track of bolt type and location.
- Remove the EGR valve carefully. There will be a gasket between the valve and manifold — remove and discard it.

5. Inspect & protect intake/exhaust passages
- Before cleaning, cover the intake port with a lint-free rag so debris doesn’t fall into the manifold.
- Inspect the EGR passages with a mirror. If heavily carboned, plan to clean with a brush and cleaner; you may need to remove more components for good access.

6. Bench test the old EGR valve (optional)
- Use the hand vacuum pump on the valve’s vacuum port — apply vacuum and watch the valve pintle move. If it won’t hold vacuum or if the pintle doesn’t move smoothly, the valve is faulty and replacement is justified.
- Also test the EGR VSV: apply 12V to its terminals briefly (if safe and you know polarity) to hear a click; blow through it or use vacuum pump to verify it opens/closes. If unsure, an OBD scan of EGR codes helps.

7. Clean (if reusing components) and inspect mating surfaces
- Use a brass brush and carb cleaner to remove carbon from the EGR valve body and the intake/exhaust mating surfaces.
- Gently scrape old gasket material from the manifold and valve flange — do not push debris into ports; use a vacuum or rag to block the opening.
- Inspect the valve seating surface; pitted or damaged seats mean replace the valve.

8. Replace vacuum hoses & check valve if worn
- Replace any rubber hose that is cracked or soft. Replace the little one-way check valve (cheap insurance) if it looks brittle or doesn’t hold vacuum.

9. Install the new EGR valve
- Place a new gasket (dry, no gasket sealer unless specified by manual) between valve and flange.
- Position the EGR valve and hand-thread mounting bolts.
- Torque the bolts to specification. If you don’t have the exact number, typical small EGR bolts are in the 8–20 Nm (7–15 lb‑ft) range — but check the factory manual for your exact model and bolt size. Do not overtighten (risk stripping manifold threads or warping flange).
- Reconnect vacuum hoses to their correct ports (orientation matters for check valves).
- Reconnect electrical connectors and any brackets removed.

10. Reinstall intake pieces and reconnect battery
- Reattach the air intake hose and any shields.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected.

11. Test and verify operation
- Start the engine; check for vacuum/electrical leaks and listen for rough idle or unusual noises.
- Use your hand vacuum pump (if possible) to apply vacuum to the installed valve and confirm engine response (idle change). If the EGR is opening properly, you’ll usually see a drop in idle rpm.
- Clear any stored codes and test drive. Observe for check engine light or drivability issues.
- Use an OBD scanner to verify no EGR-related codes persist.

Special notes, gotchas, and troubleshooting
- Don’t let carbon fall into the intake: always block ports with a rag and vacuum debris away.
- If old mounting studs break: extraction can be difficult — use penetrating oil, heat (careful), or an easy-out; if broken in the manifold, consider professional help.
- Vacuum leak from a torn gasket or cracked hose will cause rough idle and may be mistaken for other problems — replace gaskets/hose if you suspect leaks.
- Over-tightening bolts can strip the aluminum manifold threads; use correct torque.
- If new valve still gives symptoms, check the VSV, vacuum supply (engine vacuum), and ECU inputs — sometimes the sensor or wiring is at fault.
- Diesel vs petrol note: 1FZ‑FE is gasoline; it won’t have an EGR cooler like many diesels, but it will still suffer from heavy carbon.

Maintenance tips and when to replace vs clean
- Light carbon can be cleaned, but heavy buildup or a leaking diaphragm means replacement. EGR valves are inexpensive relative to the time saved.
- Replace vacuum hoses and one-way check valve whenever you replace the valve.
- If you have recurrent carbon build-up, investigate causes: poor PCV function, oil burning, or infrequent service.

Final check list before you finish
- New gasket installed and bolts torqued correctly.
- Vacuum hoses connected to the right ports and not collapsed.
- Electrical connectors reconnected.
- No tools left in the engine bay.
- Codes cleared and engine tested for idle and drivability.

If you want a short checklist for the workbench:
- Tools, new parts, safety gear ready
- Photos of hose routing
- Remove valve → block ports → clean mating surfaces
- Replace gasket & valve → torque bolts → reconnect vacuum & electrical
- Test with vacuum pump → start engine → verify idle and no leaks → road test

That’s the process. Follow safe practices, confirm torque specs from a 1FZ‑FE service manual for exact values, and replace hoses/gaskets rather than reusing worn rubber.
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