Tools & consumables
- Floor jack and quality jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench or 1/2" drive impact or breaker bar for lug nuts
- Breaker bar (3/4" drive helpful) and extension
- Axle nut socket (verify exact size on your truck; commonly 30–36 mm on Toyota hubs — confirm before starting)
- 1/2" and 3/8" ratchets, metric socket set, extensions
- Torque wrench (0–250+ ft·lb range)
- Ball joint / tie-rod separator (pickle fork or puller)
- Small pry bar and large pry bar or flat bar
- Hammer and brass or nylon drift (avoid steel on soft parts)
- Slide hammer or axle puller (if axle is stuck in hub)
- Snap-ring pliers (if CV joint retained by circlip)
- Bench vise and/or hydraulic press (if replacing individual CV joint/inner tripod)
- Soft-jaw clamps or wood blocks to protect parts in a vise
- CV boot clamp pliers (crimp/clamp tool) and/or CV banding tool
- Clean rags, brake cleaner, parts tray for hardware
- Grease pack for CV joints (usually high-temp moly grease supplied with joint)
- New axle nut (recommended) and any replacement cotter pins or new hub hardware
- Replacement part(s): either a full replacement front half-shaft (recommended) or the correct outer/inboard CV joint and boot kit (boots, clamps, grease). If inner joint removed from trans, plan to replace/inspect oil seal and have differential/trans fluid top-up ready.
- Drain pan for differential fluid if inner end is pulled from trans
- Safety glasses and gloves

Safety & preparation (non-negotiable)
1. Work on a flat, level surface. Chock wheels and block transmission if parked on grade.
2. Loosen wheel lugs slightly while vehicle still on ground.
3. Safely lift with floor jack at manufacturer lift point; support on jack stands placed under the frame or designated lift points. Never rely on the jack alone.
4. Wear eye protection. CV grease, differential oil and dirt can spray out when the shaft is removed.
5. If axle removal allows differential/transfer case oil loss, drain/remove or have drip pan and fluid ready to refill.

Step-by-step — removal (outer CV or whole half-shaft)
1. Loosen axle nut:
- With vehicle on stands and wheel off, remove cotter pin and castellated nut retainer if present. Use a breaker bar or impact to remove the axle nut. If hub rotates, place transmission in gear (manual) or have an assistant apply brakes; for automatic, use a pry wedge behind brake rotor to keep hub from turning.
2. Separate steering/suspension linkages:
- Disconnect lower ball joint (or tie rod end) from spindle using a separator tool (press/puller or pickle fork). If spindle must swing out to free the axle, unbolt the lower ball joint stud from the control arm or remove stabilizer link as needed. Use a small pry bar to lower the knuckle without over-stressing brake lines.
3. Remove hub-to-knuckle/axle connection:
- If axle splines are engaged with hub, push the hub assembly outwards (or slide the axle inward) to disengage. On some models you must remove hub bolts or slide off hub. A slide hammer or gentle hammer blows to the hub face (with wood block) can free a stuck shaft. Avoid striking threads or studs.
4. Separate inner joint from trans/differential:
- Use a pry bar between trans/differential case and inner joint housing to pop the inboard joint out of the differential. There is usually a circlip that retains the shaft; you will feel it release. Keep an oil pan under the differential to catch fluid. If the joint is heavily corroded, a slide hammer on a puller or careful tapping around the case flange can help — avoid damaging the case seal surface.
5. Withdraw the axle:
- Once free from hub and trans, pull the shaft out. Inspect splines, shaft, and mating surfaces.

If replacing entire half-shaft assembly, the new shaft installs opposite of removal. If replacing only a CV joint (bench work), follow the next section.

Bench replacement of an outer CV joint (general)
1. Secure shaft in vise using soft jaws or wood blocks to avoid smashing splines.
2. Remove boot clamps and slide boot back. Clean off excess grease with rags — keep a parts tray for contaminated grease.
3. Remove circlip or snap ring (if present) from shaft with snap-ring pliers. If the joint is pressed on, you may need a hydraulic press or a CV joint puller. Some Toyota outer joints are bolted (four bolts) to flange — remove bolts if so.
4. To press off the old joint: use a press or hammer with drift on the back of the joint housing (use wood block to protect surfaces) to drive the joint off the shaft until it clears the snap ring or shoulder. On tripod inner joints, withdraw the tripod.
5. Clean shaft and inspect splines for wear. Replace shaft if splines are damaged or if circlip groove is worn.
6. Pack new joint with supplied CV grease (fill joint cavity and inside boot bell). If boot clamp bands used, slide boot and clamp onto shaft before installing joint.
7. Install new joint onto splines until it seats against circlip/shoulder. Verify snap ring engages.
8. Position and clamp CV boot: use proper crimp/clamp tool to tighten ear clamps or band tool for Oetiker style. Make sure boot is not twisted and has correct routing.
9. Replace any worn external seals or dust shields.

Reinstallation (installation)
1. Clean hub bore and differential bore of rust and debris; lightly coat splines with thin film of grease to ease assembly (don’t over-grease splines).
2. Insert inner splines into differential; push until circlip snaps into place — you should feel it click. If it does not seat, use a soft mallet and a drift on the shaft boss, not the splines.
3. Guide outer end into hub and slide through. If hub had to be moved or knuckle swung out, reposition and secure lower ball joint/tie rod/knuckle bolts. Torque fasteners per Toyota spec.
4. Torque axle nut to factory specification. IMPORTANT: axle nuts are high torque and often stretch-type — tighten to Toyota spec and use new nut if required. Do not under-torque (bearing preload issue) or over-torque (risk of nut/stud damage). If the nut has a cotter pin slot, align and install cotter pin. If Nissan-style torque + then back-off, that’s not applicable; follow Toyota procedure exactly.
5. Reinstall wheel and lug nuts, lower vehicle, torque wheel lugs to spec.

Fluids & checks
- If inner joint popped out of differential/trans, refill or top up differential/transfer/transaxle fluid to correct level with correct fluid type.
- Check new CV boot for leaks and clamps for proper seating.
- Test drive slow first to verify no clicking, vibration, or oil leaks.
- Re-check axle nut torque after short test drive if manufacturer recommends.

How key tools are used (short how-to)
- Breaker bar/impact: initial axle nut break loose. Use long bar against hub to resist turning or have someone apply brakes. Use steady force; do not use cheater pipes on small handles.
- Ball joint separator/puller: fits over stud and forces taper apart. A screw-type puller reduces damage vs. pickle fork which can tear boots.
- Torque wrench: tighten to exact torque in steps. For axle nut, snug then final torque in single pass per spec; do not use torque wrench to break bolts.
- Slide hammer/axle puller: attach to hub or shaft face (with adapter) and deliver steady pulls until the shaft frees. Use controlled blows.
- Snap-ring pliers: expand or compress circlip to remove/install without marring groove.
- Bench vise/press: used to press joints on/off. Support housing and drive on the inner race or use appropriate adapters so you don’t damage bearings or races.
- CV boot clamp pliers/banding tool: compress and crimp factory-style clamps evenly; poor clamps lead to boot leaks and early failure.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting vehicle properly: always use stands — never work on only a jack.
- Destroying wheel studs by hammering hub — use proper puller or slide hammer and protect studs.
- Damaging ABS sensor/wiring: unclip and protect wiring harness before prying or pushing hub/knuckle.
- Not replacing axle nut or reusing stretched nut — replace if recommended; reuse can lead to bearing preload loss or nut failure.
- Failing to replace boot clamps correctly — cheap or improperly crimped clamps will let grease out and contaminate joint.
- Contaminating new joint grease with old grease or dirt — clean thoroughly and use only the supplied grease.
- Not seating the inner circlip fully — results in the shaft working loose and joint failure. Verify engagement by trying to pull the shaft out slightly before reinstalling hub.
- Incorrect torque on axle nut — under-torque causes excessive endplay and bearing wear; over-torque can cause nut/thread damage and pre-load issues.
- Forgetting to refill/trans fluid — inner joint removal will leak fluid; always check and top-up.
- Reusing damaged boots, clamps, or snap rings — cheap parts that fail quickly; replace if any doubt.

Parts typically required
- Full replacement front half-shaft (recommended for age/quick swap) OR
- Outer CV joint or inner tripod joint kit (as needed)
- CV boot kit (boot(s), clamps, grease) if boot is torn
- New axle nut and cotter pin if used
- Possible new wheel hub bolts/studs if damaged
- Differential fluid (if inner joint removed)
- Replacement snap rings/circlips as required

Final checks
- Confirm no play in wheel bearing/hub after torquing.
- Road-test under different speeds and turns; listen for clicking on turns (outer joint) or clunk (inner).
- Recheck clamp tightness and for leaks after 100–200 miles.

Done.
rteeqp73

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