- Safety first
- Work on level ground, in daylight or good lighting. Wear safety glasses and heavy gloves. Keep bystanders (especially children) away.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always use properly rated jack stands under solid pinch-welds or subframe points.
- Coil springs store huge energy. Never remove a strut spring without a proper spring compressor or use a pre-assembled strut. Improper handling can cause severe injury or death.

- Overview of what you’re doing and why
- You are removing the strut assembly that supports the wheel, absorbs shocks, and locates the suspension.
- You can replace just the strut cartridge/insert, the entire strut assembly (recommended for beginners), or transfer the spring into a new strut (requires a spring compressor).
- Wheel alignment is required after any strut replacement because ride height and steering geometry will change.

- Tools — what they are, what they do, how to use them (detailed)
- Floor jack (2‑ton or larger)
- Lifts the vehicle. Place the jack under a recommended lift point and pump until vehicle is off the ground.
- Use only to lift; never leave the vehicle supported by the jack.
- Jack stands (pair), rated capacity appropriate for vehicle
- Support the vehicle once lifted. Place on solid ground and set height, then slowly lower the jack until the stands bear the weight.
- Wheel chocks
- Block the wheels left on the ground to prevent rolling. Place both front or both rear wheels chocked.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar and appropriate socket (wheel nut/socket)
- Break wheel nuts loose before lifting. Use steady pressure; avoid sudden jerks.
- 3/8” and 1/2” drive ratchets and a breaker bar
- Ratchets for normal fasteners; breaker bar for stubborn bolts. Attach correct size sockets.
- Metric socket set (deep and shallow) — common sizes for Toyota: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm (verify on your vehicle)
- Use sockets to remove nuts/bolts. Deep sockets are useful for bolts with long threads.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, suitable range up to ~200 Nm)
- Final tightening to factory torque. Set required torque, pull steadily until click to confirm torque achieved.
- Spring compressor (coil spring compressor)
- Compresses the coil spring so you can safely remove or transfer the spring from/to a strut. Follow the tool instructions precisely; use a paired/compression bar type and keep compressed springs secured.
- If you are not confident or don’t own this tool, buy a complete strut assembly instead — it eliminates the need for spring compression.
- Strut nut socket or thin-walled socket and holding tool
- Top strut nut often needs a thin socket or special tool to hold the strut shaft while you undo the nut.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster or WD-40) and wire brush
- Soak rusty/stuck bolts to ease removal. Brush off heavy rust first.
- Pry bar and large flat screwdriver
- Help separate strut from knuckle if it’s stuck. Use gently to avoid damage.
- Hammer / soft mallet
- Tap seized bolts or to help free components. Use a rubber mallet to avoid damaging parts.
- C‑clamp or bench vise (optional)
- Useful if you’re compressing springs on a bench-mounted spring compressor.
- Needle-nose pliers, adjustable pliers, and locking pliers
- Remove clips, cotter pins; hold parts while turning nuts.
- Zip ties or wire
- Support brake hoses/ABS wires out of the way while the strut is removed to prevent damage.
- Anti-seize or thread locker (Loctite)
- Anti-seize on bolts if reusing in corroded areas; thread locker where recommended. Use per manufacturer instructions.
- Impact wrench (optional)
- Speeds removal of stubborn nuts/bolts but not required. If using, be careful not to overtighten on reassembly; always torque with a torque wrench.

- Replacement parts — what you may need and why
- Complete strut assembly (recommended for beginners)
- Replaces strut, spring, top mount, bearing, dust boot, bump stop as one unit. Avoids spring compressor and reduces risk.
- Strut cartridge/insert only (cheaper)
- Replaces the damping unit but keeps the original spring and mounts. Requires spring compressor and inspection of mounts.
- Upper strut mount / bearing (recommended with strut)
- Mount degrades over time, causing noise and poor steering feel. Replace for longevity and smooth operation.
- Dust boot and bump stop
- Protects the shock shaft and limits travel; degraded boots allow dirt/water to damage seals.
- New lower mounting bolts / nuts (recommended)
- Suspension bolts can stretch or corrode; replacing hardware avoids future issues and ensures correct clamping.
- Sway bar end links or rubber bushings (inspect & replace if worn)
- Often removed during strut replacement; if worn, replace to stop clunks and restore handling.
- Brake hose bracket hardware / ABS sensor clips (inspect)
- These can be brittle; replace any damaged clips to avoid hose/line strain.
- Alignment (four-wheel alignment by shop)
- Not a physical part, but required service after the job.

- When to choose which replacement option
- Buy complete assembled struts if you are a beginner or don’t have a reliable spring compressor — safest and simplest.
- Buy just the cartridge if you’re on a tight budget and have the tools and experience to safely compress springs.
- Replace mounts/bearings and dust boots whenever you replace struts — they are inexpensive insurance.

- Step-by-step process (high‑level, safe, beginner‑friendly)
- Park vehicle on level ground, chock wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while on the ground.
- Jack up the corner, support on jack stands, remove wheel.
- Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts and top strut nuts; let soak.
- Support the hub/knuckle with a small jack or a sturdy support to prevent it from falling when you remove the strut.
- Disconnect sway bar end link from the strut (hold link while removing nut) and unclip brake hose/ABS sensor from the strut so they are not under tension. Zip-tie brake hose out of the way.
- Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts (and any stabilizer bracket). Use penetrating oil, breaker bar if needed.
- Remove the top strut mounting nuts in the engine bay (support the strut as you remove the last nut so it doesn’t drop). Pull the strut out downward.
- If using a complete assembled strut: position the new strut into the top mount, start top nuts finger tight, align lower mount, insert lower bolts and tighten to prevent movement, torque all fasteners to factory specs, reconnect sway bar and brake line clips, remount wheel.
- If transferring spring to a new strut or replacing cartridge:
- Secure spring in the spring compressor per tool instructions. Compress evenly and only until spring is loose in the strut seat.
- Remove the top nut on the strut shaft while holding the shaft to prevent rotation, then disassemble the mount and transfer spring to new strut or install new cartridge.
- Reassemble the strut, slowly and evenly decompress the spring, ensuring spring seats correctly.
- Install assembled strut into car as above.
- Re-torque all suspension fasteners to factory specs with a torque wrench (consult factory manual or a reputable source for exact values).
- Reinstall wheel, lower car, torque wheel nuts to spec.
- Take vehicle for a wheel alignment as soon as possible.

- Important safety tips and gotchas
- If you don’t own a spring compressor and don’t have experience, do not attempt to compress springs — buy a complete strut assembly.
- Always follow the spring compressor manufacturer’s instructions exactly; compress evenly, and never put your body over a compressed spring.
- Use a torque wrench for final tightening — loose or over-torqued suspension fasteners are dangerous.
- Inspect surrounding suspension components (ball joints, control arm bushings, tie rods, wheel bearings) while you’re there and replace any worn parts — they often cause symptoms attributed to “bad struts.”
- Expect to get a wheel alignment after the job; driving without one can cause poor handling and uneven tire wear.

- Typical signs that replacement is required
- Excessive bouncing, bottoming out, oil leaking from the strut body, uneven tire wear, clunking noises over bumps, or poor steering control.
- If one side shows these signs, replace both front struts to keep balance and handling predictable.

- Final practical notes
- Consult the vehicle’s factory repair manual or a trustworthy repair database for exact bolt sizes, torque specifications, and top-mount nut sizes for your specific model year and chassis.
- If you’re unsure at any stage, have a professional shop perform the job or at least the spring compression and alignment — it’s a relatively inexpensive and safe choice compared with the risks.

- Quick recommendation for a beginner
- Buy complete front strut assemblies (OE or quality aftermarket), new upper mounts if not included, new lower mounting bolts if old/corroded, and have a professional alignment after installation. This avoids using a spring compressor and is the safest route.
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